gscartsw / gscartsw_lite / gcompsw switches support thread

[MJR]

PS2: check your firmware setting output video mode, it should be set to RGB, PS2 shares same wires for Component / RGBS pins.
Xbox360: This is RGBS switch, you have to provide full RGB input, passive composite / audio adapter to SCART doesn't transcode, it's just an interconnection of wires.

You were right, I had to order Xbox RGB scart cable, thankfully they are cheap and not that hard to find
PS2 sorted itself out, I am not quite sure what happened. It was set to RGB all along, I fiddled with the Matrix firmware settings that sets the PS2 output and color correction, then after lots of befuddling and foolery it somehow started to work.

And this thing works like a dream lovely image&sound quality and super easy to use. I am loving this

[superg]

PS2 sorted itself out, I am not quite sure what happened. It was set to RGB all along, I fiddled with the Matrix firmware settings that sets the PS2 output and color correction, then after lots of befuddling and foolery it somehow started to work.

Speaking of Matrix modchip settings, make sure you don't have a color correction fix enabled as that slows down movie speed, I spent quite a while figuring out that in the past.

[MJR]

PS2 sorted itself out, I am not quite sure what happened. It was set to RGB all along, I fiddled with the Matrix firmware settings that sets the PS2 output and color correction, then after lots of befuddling and foolery it somehow started to work.

Speaking of Matrix modchip settings, make sure you don't have a color correction fix enabled as that slows down movie speed, I spent quite a while figuring out that in the past.

All right, noted, thank you

[ldeveraux]

I got my gscartw today, thank you very much!

Unfortunately, there is a small issue: my modded ps2 (matrix infinity) is showing weird purple tint over the screen. It is connected to the splitter with RGB scart cable. And my xbox 360 slim is showing heavy green tint. It is a PAL machine, connected to the splitter with split SCART/composite cable. Both consoles worked fine with previous splitters.

I wonder why you'd use the 360 with SCART instead of HDMI? Isn't the console capable of at least 720p? Maybe even 1080 i/p.

[MJR]

I got my gscartw today, thank you very much!

Unfortunately, there is a small issue: my modded ps2 (matrix infinity) is showing weird purple tint over the screen. It is connected to the splitter with RGB scart cable. And my xbox 360 slim is showing heavy green tint. It is a PAL machine, connected to the splitter with split SCART/composite cable. Both consoles worked fine with previous splitters.

I wonder why you'd use the 360 with SCART instead of HDMI? Isn't the console capable of at least 720p? Maybe even 1080 i/p.

Xbox 360 has 1080p. But most of the time I dont use Xbox360 for Xbox360 games. I use it for Arcade emulation: M2 Capcom collection ports, Midway arcade classics, Megadrive collection that has Alien syndrome and Altered Beast arcade versions as hidden bonus materials, CAVE ports which include original arcade versions. Green Beret, Ninja Turtles and Guwange downloaded from marketplace. Also, Xbox is compatible with my Arcade tankstick. Having old arcade games on original CRT monitor is hundred times better than having them on some modern monitor. I have 65" 4K OLED screen at living room and I prefer it for modern games. For old games I prefer CRT monitor and original hardware where applicaple. Therefore, I need also scart switch.

[rashohyo]

Hi to all,
I’m an owner of a gscartsw but i have a problem with my commodore 64. All other console/computer looks perfect on my sony trinitron but when i turn on the c64 nothing appears. If i use the same scart cable direct in the tv everything is ok.
Can someone help me?

Thank you so much
Adelmo

[ldeveraux]

I got my gscartw today, thank you very much!

Unfortunately, there is a small issue: my modded ps2 (matrix infinity) is showing weird purple tint over the screen. It is connected to the splitter with RGB scart cable. And my xbox 360 slim is showing heavy green tint. It is a PAL machine, connected to the splitter with split SCART/composite cable. Both consoles worked fine with previous splitters.

I wonder why you'd use the 360 with SCART instead of HDMI? Isn't the console capable of at least 720p? Maybe even 1080 i/p.

Xbox 360 has 1080p. But most of the time I dont use Xbox360 for Xbox360 games. I use it for Arcade emulation: M2 Capcom collection ports, Midway arcade classics, Megadrive collection that has Alien syndrome and Altered Beast arcade versions as hidden bonus materials, CAVE ports which include original arcade versions. Green Beret, Ninja Turtles and Guwange downloaded from marketplace. Also, Xbox is compatible with my Arcade tankstick. Having old arcade games on original CRT monitor is hundred times better than having them on some modern monitor. I have 65" 4K OLED screen at living room and I prefer it for modern games. For old games I prefer CRT monitor and original hardware where applicaple. Therefore, I need also scart switch.

I understand that, but surprised because most people here eschew ports/collections/recreations of older games and prefer to play the originals.

[MJR]

I understand that, but surprised because most people here eschew ports/collections/recreations of older games and prefer to play the originals.

Me as well But because my funds are limited, I play quality arcade ports/emulations and collections, when they are available (and everone knows how good M2 is with their ports) because CRT tv + X-arcade tank stick can get pretty close on recreating that experience. When quality conversion or emulation is not available for a console, I buy the original arcade PCB for my Jamma+Neo Geo cabinet. This is what I have been doing for the last 20 years

[mario64]

I have an original model gscartsw with the barrel power connector. I would like to replace the power cord with a right angle one so it doesn't stick out as much. Anyone know of a good one off hand or know the specs to look for? Thank you

[superg]

I have an original model gscartsw with the barrel power connector. I would like to replace the power cord with a right angle one so it doesn't stick out as much. Anyone know of a good one off hand or know the specs to look for? Thank you

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/1129476
Would something like this work for you?
There are a few options on digikey and I use some of these extenders in my game room setup.

[ldeveraux]

I have an original model gscartsw with the barrel power connector. I would like to replace the power cord with a right angle one so it doesn't stick out as much. Anyone know of a good one off hand or know the specs to look for? Thank you

As long as the dimensions work (measure your barrel), I'd assume to take your pick.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+connector+angle+barrel

[superg]

I have an original model gscartsw with the barrel power connector. I would like to replace the power cord with a right angle one so it doesn't stick out as much. Anyone know of a good one off hand or know the specs to look for? Thank you

As long as the dimensions work (measure your barrel), I'd assume to take your pick.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+connector+angle+barrel

This is even better!

[mario64]

I have an original model gscartsw with the barrel power connector. I would like to replace the power cord with a right angle one so it doesn't stick out as much. Anyone know of a good one off hand or know the specs to look for? Thank you

As long as the dimensions work (measure your barrel), I'd assume to take your pick.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=power+connector+angle+barrel

This is even better!

What are the dimensions of the barrel? Don't think I have tool to measure that small.

[superg]

What are the dimensions of the barrel? Don't think I have tool to measure that small.

That is a standard what they call "2.1 barrel jack".

[mario64]

What are the dimensions of the barrel? Don't think I have tool to measure that small.

That is a standard what they call "2.1 barrel jack".

Great thanks much!

[superg]

Hi to all,
I’m an owner of a gscartsw but i have a problem with my commodore 64. All other console/computer looks perfect on my sony trinitron but when i turn on the c64 nothing appears. If i use the same scart cable direct in the tv everything is ok.
Can someone help me?

Thank you so much
Adelmo

When you turn on your C64, does the switch LED quickly blinks?

[the Goat]

Hi to all,
I’m an owner of a gscartsw but i have a problem with my commodore 64. All other console/computer looks perfect on my sony trinitron but when i turn on the c64 nothing appears. If i use the same scart cable direct in the tv everything is ok.
Can someone help me?

Thank you so much
Adelmo

The commodore 64 does not output an RGBS video signal. Your commodore 64 SCART cable is using S-Video (sometimes referred to as Y-C video).

Edit: And the gscartsw does not support S-Video.

[superg]

The commodore 64 does not output an RGBS video signal. Your commodore 64 SCART cable is using S-Video (sometimes referred to as Y-C video).

Edit: And the gscartsw does not support S-Video.

Oh, that explains it. So there will be a video if you take CVBS from one of the gscartsw outputs. (using one of the SCART->RCA adapters)

[ldeveraux]

Hi to all,
I’m an owner of a gscartsw but i have a problem with my commodore 64. All other console/computer looks perfect on my sony trinitron but when i turn on the c64 nothing appears. If i use the same scart cable direct in the tv everything is ok.
Can someone help me?

Thank you so much
Adelmo

The commodore 64 does not output an RGBS video signal. Your commodore 64 SCART cable is using S-Video (sometimes referred to as Y-C video).

Edit: And the gscartsw does not support S-Video.

Consequently, this was released to the public for sale this year and pairs quite well with the gcompsw:
https://github.com/c0pperdragon/C64-Video-Enhancement

[the Goat]

Hi to all,
I’m an owner of a gscartsw but i have a problem with my commodore 64. All other console/computer looks perfect on my sony trinitron but when i turn on the c64 nothing appears. If i use the same scart cable direct in the tv everything is ok.
Can someone help me?

Thank you so much
Adelmo

The commodore 64 does not output an RGBS video signal. Your commodore 64 SCART cable is using S-Video (sometimes referred to as Y-C video).

Edit: And the gscartsw does not support S-Video.

Consequently, this was released to the public for sale this year and pairs quite well with the gcompsw:
https://github.com/c0pperdragon/C64-Video-Enhancement

Nice! I saw that when it was first released. But it only supported YPbPr. Looks like they added support for RGB with revision 2.

[MJR]

The commodore 64 does not output an RGBS video signal. Your commodore 64 SCART cable is using S-Video (sometimes referred to as Y-C video).

Edit: And the gscartsw does not support S-Video.

Oh, that explains it. So there will be a video if you take CVBS from one of the gscartsw outputs. (using one of the SCART->RCA adapters)

I just realized the same thing - I can't get picture out from my c128D; and I was using s-video/scart adapter.

But I was left confused by what you mean by "taking CVBS from one of the gscart outputs"? Did you mean that I should put this into the other output, switch the mode to "out", then plug the RCA cables into television? While still using the same Scart cable I've been using with my c64/128 with previous scart switches?

[superg]

I just realized the same thing - I can't get picture out from my c128D; and I was using s-video/scart adapter.

But I was left confused by what you mean by "taking CVBS from one of the gscart outputs"? Did you mean that I should put this into the other output, switch the mode to "out", then plug the RCA cables into television? While still using the same Scart cable I've been using with my c64/128 with previous scart switches?

Yes, that will work. You can also utilize two outputs at the same time, one using SCART->SCART cable for your RGB sources and the other RCA one for composite only sources. You will still have to use a TV remote to switch between SCART and composite mode though.
You can even forward S-Video this way with adapters.

[MJR]

I just realized the same thing - I can't get picture out from my c128D; and I was using s-video/scart adapter.

But I was left confused by what you mean by "taking CVBS from one of the gscart outputs"? Did you mean that I should put this into the other output, switch the mode to "out", then plug the RCA cables into television? While still using the same Scart cable I've been using with my c64/128 with previous scart switches?

Yes, that will work. You can also utilize two outputs at the same time, one using SCART->SCART cable for your RGB sources and the other RCA one for composite only sources. You will still have to use a TV remote to switch between SCART and composite mode though.
You can even forward S-Video this way with adapters.

OK, great, thanks! Good to know. Fortunately I'm now on summer holiday so I have time to work this out.

[leonk]

Someone sent me a gscartsw life 1.5 for repair (local to me). The DC adapter shows good 9V but when I plug it into the unit, LED doesn’t turn on and voltage across F1 fluctuates quickly between 2.7 and 1.7V

F1 isn’t blown and under microscope I can’t see any damaged components.

Any suggestions on what to test next?

[leonk]

I remember looking at a couple of capacitors and inducers and thinking they looked a little crunchy, but didn't think to get some macro pictures so I could take a closer look. I'll snap some later and post them up.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

Ok, let me help you but don't do anything except what I say.
1. Unplug it and don't keep it on
2. Unsolder L3, L4, L5, L7, L8, L9, they are all the same parts, no worries
3. Plug it in and check if you get quick LED blink followed by steady green (don't connect any inputs, just power), if you do, Altera is alive and high chances that it's just a multiplexer damage
4. Measure voltage on L1 and make sure it's close to +5V
5. Solder back Lx beads in this order one by one: L5, L9, L4, L8, L3, L7, after each soldered bead briefly turn it on, measure voltage on L1 and if you still get +5V proceed with soldering next one. If you get drop, skip the given bead and go with the next one
6. Once you're done, tell me the elements you left unsoldered and I will tell you which parts have to be replaced.
If Altera IC is dead it doesn't make much point to go ahead unless you can replace it with another one.

First of all, thank you for provided low level circuit diag instructions for EE's that have the right tools and knowledge to do low level board repair, but no access to schematics.

On this gscartsw lite 1.5, I removed L2, L6, L5 and then L9. The moment L9 was removed, the LED turned on with that proper double green light blink!

I'll put L2, L6 and L5 back and see if missing L9 fixes the issue. I assume bad U18 if so? got link to Digikey?

[superg]

I remember looking at a couple of capacitors and inducers and thinking they looked a little crunchy, but didn't think to get some macro pictures so I could take a closer look. I'll snap some later and post them up.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

Ok, let me help you but don't do anything except what I say.
1. Unplug it and don't keep it on
2. Unsolder L3, L4, L5, L7, L8, L9, they are all the same parts, no worries
3. Plug it in and check if you get quick LED blink followed by steady green (don't connect any inputs, just power), if you do, Altera is alive and high chances that it's just a multiplexer damage
4. Measure voltage on L1 and make sure it's close to +5V
5. Solder back Lx beads in this order one by one: L5, L9, L4, L8, L3, L7, after each soldered bead briefly turn it on, measure voltage on L1 and if you still get +5V proceed with soldering next one. If you get drop, skip the given bead and go with the next one
6. Once you're done, tell me the elements you left unsoldered and I will tell you which parts have to be replaced.
If Altera IC is dead it doesn't make much point to go ahead unless you can replace it with another one.

First of all, thank you for provided low level circuit diag instructions for EE's that have the right tools and knowledge to do low level board repair, but no access to schematics.

On this gscartsw lite 1.5, I removed L2, L6, L5 and then L9. The moment L9 was removed, the LED turned on with that proper double green light blink!

I'll put L2, L6 and L5 back and see if missing L9 fixes the issue. I assume bad U18 if so? got link to Digikey?

First of all, these steps were for v5.2. Lite ferrite bead pairs are different:
L2, L6: responsible for U5 and U6
L3, L7: responsible for U1-U4
L4, L8: U7

[leonk]

I can confirm that removing L9 makes the switch boot up with all other ferrite beads in place.

I’m guessing the problem is U18?

[superg]

I can confirm that removing L9 makes the switch boot up with all other ferrite beads in place.

I’m guessing the problem is U18?

L9 disables everything, it's after primary switch voltage regulator IC.
Solder back L9, read my reply again and do the steps with bead pairs I posted in my previous reply.

[leonk]

Put L9 back. No LED.

removed L2, L6 - no LED
removed L3, L7 - no LED
removed L4, L8 - no LED

Voltage at F1 still jumping around 2V. When L9 is removed, voltage at one leg of L5 is 4.98V and LED is on.

Other tests I can do?

[superg]

Put L9 back. No LED.

removed L2, L6 - no LED
removed L3, L7 - no LED
removed L4, L8 - no LED

Voltage at F1 still jumping around 2V. When L9 is removed, voltage at one leg of L5 is 4.98V and LED is on.

Other tests I can do?

Just to confirm, you have L2, L6, L3, L7, L4, L8 all removed at the same time and LED still doesn't light?