Question about Bandridge SCART selector on Amazon UK/Ebay

[evil_ash_xero]

I'm looking to buy a "Bandridge Premium Performance 5 Way SCART Selector Switching Box", but there seem to be two of them, with the same name, but with different prices.

Then there are two that look EXACTLY like these two, that are on Ebay(U.S.).

Are the Valuelines the same as the Bandridges, and what are the differences between these two models(other than one has 5 buttons and one has 6)?

Amazon UK links:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bandridge-Premi ... lectronics

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bandridge-Perfo ... lectronics

Ebay Links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valueline-Premi ... 4616f5f7d8

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valueline-Premi ... 43c2ba71f9

Also, any place to buy these in the U.S.? The shipping from the U.K. is quite high.

[Zets13]

The more expensive one says that it is automatic. I guess it automatically detects which source is outputting an image and switches to displaying that one, with the switches there in case you want to switch between more than one powered-on source?

[mickcris]

I have the automatic one and it works great. I could not find it anywhere besides ebay and amazon uk. shipping was really expensive (just about as much as the switch) but i think it was worth it.

I dont think there are any valueline switches as there are none on the webpage. Probably just wrongly named by the ebay seller:
http://valueline.bandridge.nl/gb/produc ... ons/scart/
http://blue.bandridge.nl/gb/products/vi ... itchboxes/

[EmperorZelos]

I have the automatic and it works great if you odn't have voltage sensitive stuff, for the framemeister it almost demands a syncstrike.

[eightbitminiboss]

Does it? I don't have a Sync Strike and my consoles (SNES, X'Eye, N64, Saturn) seem to work it just fine.

[brownvim]

I have the manual version and it works great, doesn't degrade the picture at all.

[mickcris]

Im not using a sync strike either. Have a Genesis, SNES, NES, N64, and Duo-r connected to switch. Switch then goes to XRGB-mini and I have no issuess.

[evil_ash_xero]

This is Euro style...so how should I go about hooking this up to an XRGB3? Should I get a SCART cable, and have one side modded to be for JP sources?

Also, I usually have JP pinned SCART cords for my XRGB. Should I get JP to EU adapters(do they even make them) for my cables? Or should I just get the pins changed to EU?

[eightbitminiboss]

This is Euro style...so how should I go about hooking this up to an XRGB3? Should I get a SCART cable, and have one side modded to be for JP sources?

Also, I usually have JP pinned SCART cords for my XRGB. Should I get JP to EU adapters(do they even make them) for my cables? Or should I just get the pins changed to EU?

You can get a Euro SCART to JP21 cable such as this or something similar. If you don't want to swap cables all the time, you might want to consider getting euro cables for your systems.

[evil_ash_xero]

I think I'll just get the pins changed. That seems easier.

Now, how about hooking up the switchbox to the XRGB3? SCART cable, one side Euro, on side JP? Would that do the trick?

[brownvim]

That's right, got mine from here

http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/micomsoft-xrgb.html

Merry Christmas

[Docfitz01]

I have the automatic and it works great if you don't have voltage sensitive stuff, for the framemeister it almost demands a syncstrike.

Does the automatic model require a power supply?

[Docfitz01]

I have the automatic one and it works great. I could not find it anywhere besides ebay and amazon uk. shipping was really expensive (just about as much as the switch) but i think it was worth it.

I dont think there are any valueline switches as there are none on the webpage. Probably just wrongly named by the ebay seller:
http://valueline.bandridge.nl/gb/produc ... ons/scart/
http://blue.bandridge.nl/gb/products/vi ... itchboxes/

Where did you get your power adapter for this switch and are you using it with an XRGB-Mini? If so what version of the bios are you using on the XRGB-Mini?

[mickcris]

I have the automatic one and it works great. I could not find it anywhere besides ebay and amazon uk. shipping was really expensive (just about as much as the switch) but i think it was worth it.

I dont think there are any valueline switches as there are none on the webpage. Probably just wrongly named by the ebay seller:
http://valueline.bandridge.nl/gb/produc ... ons/scart/
http://blue.bandridge.nl/gb/products/vi ... itchboxes/

Where did you get your power adapter for this switch and are you using it with an XRGB-Mini? If so what version of the bios are you using on the XRGB-Mini?

I bought a generic one off of ebay from China. I am using the latest bios on the XRGB-mini.

[Docfitz01]

I have the automatic one and it works great. I could not find it anywhere besides ebay and amazon uk. shipping was really expensive (just about as much as the switch) but i think it was worth it.

I dont think there are any valueline switches as there are none on the webpage. Probably just wrongly named by the ebay seller:
http://valueline.bandridge.nl/gb/produc ... ons/scart/
http://blue.bandridge.nl/gb/products/vi ... itchboxes/

Where did you get your power adapter for this switch and are you using it with an XRGB-Mini? If so what version of the bios are you using on the XRGB-Mini?

I bought a generic one off of ebay from China. I am using the latest bios on the XRGB-mini.

I decided to go with the manual version of the switch and it is working perfectly with my systems (Neo-Geo, Super Famicom, Saturn, Sega Genesis/32X/CD).

[TheRetromancer]

I have the automatic version, and it is NOT working correctly. Oh, it displays brilliantly, and I can manually switch it, but it doesn't automatically detect the input and switch over by itself.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of:

1 - I got screwed, and somebody repackaged the (physically identical) Manual version in an Automatic version's box. With a difference of £5, I can see this happening.
2 - My cables for my NTSC consoles are all the NTSC versions from retro_console_accessories. All the literature I can find says that NTSC outputs +5v, while PAL puts out +12v. Maybe the selector is expecting a higher voltage, and the lower voltage isn't enough?

If someone could clear this up, that would be quite helpful...

[eightbitminiboss]

I have the automatic version, and it is NOT working correctly. Oh, it displays brilliantly, and I can manually switch it, but it doesn't automatically detect the input and switch over by itself.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of:

1 - I got screwed, and somebody repackaged the (physically identical) Manual version in an Automatic version's box. With a difference of £5, I can see this happening.
2 - My cables for my NTSC consoles are all the NTSC versions from retro_console_accessories. All the literature I can find says that NTSC outputs +5v, while PAL puts out +12v. Maybe the selector is expecting a higher voltage, and the lower voltage isn't enough?

If someone could clear this up, that would be quite helpful...

Regarding point 1, do you have 5 or 6 buttons? The automatic has a 6th button for recording loops.

For point 2, on my manual switch I'm using mostly retro_console_accessories cables as well and have no issues.

The only issue I ran across was that after I hooked up my NESRGB modded Twin Famicom to the 5th input, I noticed that power was passing through to it from other consoles. For example, I'd set the input to 1 where my SNES is and when I turned on my SNES, the power LED Twin Famicom turned on. I tested the other inputs and they all did the same save for my JVC X'Eye and Sega Saturn as they couldn't get sync while the Twin Famicom was hooked up.

I ended up fixing the issue by tracing were the volts were going through and cut a trace on the switch's PCB. After that cut, everything is OK now. YMMV since you're on the automatic and may not be the same setup as me and probably won't fix your issue.

This is what I cut on my switch:

[mickcris]

I have the automatic version, and it is NOT working correctly. Oh, it displays brilliantly, and I can manually switch it, but it doesn't automatically detect the input and switch over by itself.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of:

1 - I got screwed, and somebody repackaged the (physically identical) Manual version in an Automatic version's box. With a difference of £5, I can see this happening.
2 - My cables for my NTSC consoles are all the NTSC versions from retro_console_accessories. All the literature I can find says that NTSC outputs +5v, while PAL puts out +12v. Maybe the selector is expecting a higher voltage, and the lower voltage isn't enough?

If someone could clear this up, that would be quite helpful...

Do you have the power supply plugged in. The manual one does not have a power supply while the automatic does. I assume it is what is needed for the automatic switching.

[TheRetromancer]

Yes, I have the 'record' button, and yes, I have a power supply. Thankfully it came with a 'travel adapter'.

Looks like I didn't get screwed, but it still doesn't seem to auto-switch.

[mickcris]

mine came with a UK power supply that is 240v. It also came with a plug adapter that was not a voltage convertor. I did not think it said it was 100v - 240v on the supplied power supply. I tossed it and bought a US power supply. Check and make sure you are getting 12v out the power supply. It may only be putting out 6v if its not set up to use 120v or 240v. If yours came with a 120v power supply then just ignore this.

[TheRetromancer]

Hmm! I'll go check that right now!

EDIT: 230v ~50Hz with 12V output.

[mickcris]

Hmm! I'll go check that right now!

EDIT: 230v ~50Hz with 12V output.

That's probably why its not working. Here is the one I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200689254466

I thought I had ordered it from China, but I did not.

[TheRetromancer]

That's probably why its not working. Here is the one I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200689254466

I thought I had ordered it from China, but I did not.

Giggity! I had a 350 mA 12V adapter in my parts bin, but it had the wrong head on it. So I sliced it off and wired up a 2.1x5.5mm jack, slapped some shrink tubing over the solder points, and it works.

Thanks!

(It also means I can get rid of that absurd wall wart that came with it.)

[mickcris]

That's probably why its not working. Here is the one I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200689254466

I thought I had ordered it from China, but I did not.

Giggity! I had a 350 mA 12V adapter in my parts bin, but it had the wrong head on it. So I sliced it off and wired up a 2.1x5.5mm jack, slapped some shrink tubing over the solder points, and it works.

Thanks!

(It also means I can get rid of that absurd wall wart that came with it.)

Glad you got it working. I took one look at the ridiculous thing they sent with it and tossed it in the trash. It had 2 different adapters to get it to a US plug if I remember correctly. It was nice of them to try, but I guess they did not know that power supply would not handle the voltage difference.

[zakruowrath]

I have the automatic version, and it is NOT working correctly. Oh, it displays brilliantly, and I can manually switch it, but it doesn't automatically detect the input and switch over by itself.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of:

1 - I got screwed, and somebody repackaged the (physically identical) Manual version in an Automatic version's box. With a difference of £5, I can see this happening.
2 - My cables for my NTSC consoles are all the NTSC versions from retro_console_accessories. All the literature I can find says that NTSC outputs +5v, while PAL puts out +12v. Maybe the selector is expecting a higher voltage, and the lower voltage isn't enough?

If someone could clear this up, that would be quite helpful...

Regarding point 1, do you have 5 or 6 buttons? The automatic has a 6th button for recording loops.

For point 2, on my manual switch I'm using mostly retro_console_accessories cables as well and have no issues.

The only issue I ran across was that after I hooked up my NESRGB modded Twin Famicom to the 5th input, I noticed that power was passing through to it from other consoles. For example, I'd set the input to 1 where my SNES is and when I turned on my SNES, the power LED Twin Famicom turned on. I tested the other inputs and they all did the same save for my JVC X'Eye and Sega Saturn as they couldn't get sync while the Twin Famicom was hooked up.

I ended up fixing the issue by tracing were the volts were going through and cut a trace on the switch's PCB. After that cut, everything is OK now. YMMV since you're on the automatic and may not be the same setup as me and probably won't fix your issue.

This is what I cut on my switch:

Out of curiousity, how did you take it apart, I'm having a bit of trouble taking mine apart, are there hidden screws?

[eightbitminiboss]

I have the automatic version, and it is NOT working correctly. Oh, it displays brilliantly, and I can manually switch it, but it doesn't automatically detect the input and switch over by itself.

There are two possible reasons that I can think of:

1 - I got screwed, and somebody repackaged the (physically identical) Manual version in an Automatic version's box. With a difference of £5, I can see this happening.
2 - My cables for my NTSC consoles are all the NTSC versions from retro_console_accessories. All the literature I can find says that NTSC outputs +5v, while PAL puts out +12v. Maybe the selector is expecting a higher voltage, and the lower voltage isn't enough?

If someone could clear this up, that would be quite helpful...

Regarding point 1, do you have 5 or 6 buttons? The automatic has a 6th button for recording loops.

For point 2, on my manual switch I'm using mostly retro_console_accessories cables as well and have no issues.

The only issue I ran across was that after I hooked up my NESRGB modded Twin Famicom to the 5th input, I noticed that power was passing through to it from other consoles. For example, I'd set the input to 1 where my SNES is and when I turned on my SNES, the power LED Twin Famicom turned on. I tested the other inputs and they all did the same save for my JVC X'Eye and Sega Saturn as they couldn't get sync while the Twin Famicom was hooked up.

I ended up fixing the issue by tracing were the volts were going through and cut a trace on the switch's PCB. After that cut, everything is OK now. YMMV since you're on the automatic and may not be the same setup as me and probably won't fix your issue.

This is what I cut on my switch:

Out of curiousity, how did you take it apart, I'm having a bit of trouble taking mine apart, are there hidden screws?

Yep, they are hidden screws in each corner of the casing. You have to pop off the round covers to get access to them, and they are in there very tightly. You may have better luck but I ended up gouging the hell out of them to get them out.

[cyborc]

I was able to get the smaller covers out by attaching some double sided tape to them and yanking them out. I had to end up drilling out the larger ones though.

[zakruowrath]

I actually gave up on trying to get those damn round overs out and just popped off the silver front cover and clipped the D2 diode shown here by Bax. It's the one closes to the SCART plugs in the back so it's behind D1 from the front.

The diodes are 1N4004(for surge protection or something). D1 links selected input pin 8 with OUT pin 8, so the LM1881 didn't get enough volts. D2 links selected input pin 8 with AV5/VCR pin 8 and causes some consoles to power on, most likely intended for some SCART VCR mumbo jumbo.

Maybe a better solution is to replace D1 with a jumper wire(= no voltage drop on output) and remove D2 (= no more power to AVR5/VCR when not selected & no trace cut necessary).

BTW the screw covers goes of easy when pulling with Blu-Tack.

Before I did thou, I found out which pins were sending power down the wire and it seems to be Pin 8 which is "Status & Aspect Ratio Up"

D2 Diode In Place:

Pin 01 Audio Output Right 0.41 Volts

Pin 03 Audio Output Left 0.41 Volts

Pin 08 Status and Aspect Ratio Up: 4.61v

Pin 19 Composite Video Output 4.46v

D2 Diode Clipped:

Pin 01 Audio Output Right 0.41 Volts

Pin 03 Audio Output Left 0.41 Volts

Pin 08 Status and Aspect Ratio Up: 0.00 v

Pin 19 Composite Video Output 4.46v

So it seems pin 8 is the culprit since I guess it has enough power to light the LED and parts of the Super Famicom motherboard.

Either way the LED isn't lighting up now on my Super Famicom and it never lit the Nintendo 64 LED with the diode in place.