shmups.system11.org

Ok, I didnt know you had performed an audio mod as well.

I'm not sure what audio mod guide your following, but that really doesn't look right The AV Famicom doesn't need a mod for expansion audio if thats what you meant? It also looks like you have bridged both audio pins on the MULTI OUT? Has the original audio signal to the MULTI OUT been disconnected? Also one of the audio lines is running right underneath and across all your video wires. I would suggest removing all the audio wires and bridges and testing just the video output.

Its not clear from the photos, but how long are your video wires? They should be as short and direct as possible. Also, please use the CSYNC output provided from the NESRGB board, not the video encoder.

Finally (and I mean this in the nicest possible way) some of the solder joints dont look too great. In particular I can see stray wire strands on a number of joints, for example the NESRGB's Red output wire.

I completely agree with everything you said.

I disconnected everything a bunch of times and did it properly and direct a few times. I know the soldering looks really and right now but that’s from moving stuff over and over.

I found the audio mod in this thread I believe but I just completely removed it. If I recall correctly, there is already a bridge via on the multiout for audio.

I ordered a cap kit and 2a regulator.

I’ll update once I do this.

What is the purpose of the audio mod? Can you link to the post in this thread?

Yes the two audio pins are linked on the AV Famicom's MULT OUT port, but not in the same way as your audio mod with two different sources.

I take it removing all the audio wires, resistors and bridges completely (Not just disconnecting them) made no difference?

I think it was the one using 47k resistors? I can’t recall. Yes I completely removed it. Which one do you recommend? I’d like one that uses pin 46 expansion audio.

I'm not quite sure what you mean...expansion audio is already connected on the AV Famicom as stock, you dont need any mods unless your trying to tweak the audio mixing circuit.

Regardless I connected it back stock.

I’m just hoping the cap kit fixes it all.

Really strange issues.

It's been several years since I modded my toploader, but recently it has come to my attention that I've just been grabbing audio directly from the motherboard (I think from where it would have connected to the RF modulator on the underside of the board) rather than running it through the NESRGB. I'm assuming this would explain why the audio is so quiet by comparison to every other system, but there isn't really any information about it on Tim's site or anywhere, really. From what I gather, I just need to connect up to CPU pins 1 and 2, but do I also need to cut any traces? It's been so long that I'm not really sure where I got the information for the method I'm using from anymore.

Hey guys I'm thinking about having my nes rgb modded but I don't have soldering skills/tools so I am planning on using an install service to do it for me. I figured I would either go through retrofixes or Voultar, any reason to choose one over the other or are they both equally reliable (I'm in the US if that matters)? I have a component/hd retrovision setup so I will need the multi-out port on my front loader. What extras do you guys recommend (blinking light win, audio enhancements, palettes, ect)? Any advice is welcome!

I have an entire video series on Youtube where I teach people just like you to take control of their soldering tools to perform the mods of their dreams.


Maybe if you're interested in learning about some of this stuff, give those a view.

I'd personally recommend the NERGB's audio circuit w/ expansion audio, if it's actually done properly by your installer.

The SNES multi-out is mandatory for HD Rectalvision compatibility. The_Real_Phoenix has created a wonderful, open-source multi-out that I've been evaluating and I think it's fantastic. https://twitter.com/Voultar/status/1233162015767715841

I could care less if you choose me or not, frankly. My advice to you is to do your research, regardless of who you choose.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info Voultar, I've heard very good things about you from the community! I need to think some things over but if I do decide to have my nes modded I will let you know!

Thinking it would be better to do so, I lifted pins 1 and 2 and connected them directly to the NESRGB audio inputs, but now I get no sound. Do those have to stay connected, then? Is there somewhere else I might need to disconnect instead?

I finally bought a NESRGB from Tim about two months ago and finally got around to installing it about 2 weeks ago. I have a Retro Access scart cable to my OSSC, and it looks great. Except for one somewhat minor but annoying issue. The top couple of lines appear to be blurry. Its not noticeable on all games, but is on others. Looking at it using the 240p test program with the convergence grid clearly shows it, and you can see it on some other test patterns too. It actually looks like it's constantly moving/shifting.

I've played around with OSSC settings, and can't seem to get any change in it. None of my other RGB consoles using my OSSC and cables from Retro Access (Genesis, TG16, Jag, DC) seem to exhibit this behavior. Tried two different TVs, although both are Samsung 4k sets, so that may not rule out something specific to the TV. I also flashed it with the latest 2.2 firmware, just in case it happened to ship with an older version. But the issue still occurred after flashing as well.

Any ideas what might be going on here?

Thanks!

Does the NESRGB come with dejitter these days? If not, then that's normal. NES just does that unless you install the dejitter mods. Back in ye olden days, that would've been hidden off screen, so you wouldn't have noticed.

This is the hardware version 2 that should have the dejitter built in.

If you're using a custom AV out, you don't need to disconnect the original audio at all. Just connect up CPU pin 1 & 2 to the pads on the NESRGB, then connect your AV connector to the audio output on the NESRGB instead of wherever you were grabbing it previously.

Ah, thanks! That's what I have done and it seemed to be fine, but everyone seems to love removing things for mods these days, so I wanted to make sure there wasn't some other secret to it.

I did an NESRGB 2.0 install in my AV Famicom recently and have noticed the same thing. I don't really care about the visual effect of the jittery top lines, but more concerning is that it doesn't seem to be playing nicely with my capture card through the OSSC. It's having the same sync dropouts that I got with my SNES before installing the dejitter mod. Not sure what's going on with that, since all my other consoles work just fine with my capture card at line5x. Also, unless I increase the OSSC's H-sync tolerance, the top several lines will sometimes start blinking on and off, but this only happens occasionally and hard resetting the console corrects it. This is with a RGC Packapunch c-sync cable, for reference.

I have a USB Blaster on the way and was planning to test both 2.0/2.1 and 2.2 firmwares to see if the "sync correction" Tim mentions on his site has something to do with it.

I have a blaster, and the thought did cross my mind. I guess I could try the older firmware, maybe tonight.

I want to use the Audio Amp on the NES RGB board on my Famicom AV but I have a question. Do I need to solder two wires to the Audio Output, one going to pin 11 and the other to pin 12 of the Multi-out?

I flashed 2.1, didn't see any change good or bad. So I just went back to 2.2.

You don't, since those pins are already connected together on the motherboard. All you would need to do is cut the existing trace going to those pins on the multiout so the stock audio circuit is cut off.

I tried it as well, no change for me either. I wonder what the difference is between the V2 NESRGB and a dejittered SNES that makes them behave differently with my setup.

Tim had posted an experimental
V2.3 that disabled the dejitter completely. For grins I flashed it. I didn't see any difference good or bad either way. Went back to 2.2 to be safe.

I think you would want to put a dejitter mod on there in addition to your nesrgb. I don't use one because I don't use an OSSC or an OLED screen with finicky sync, but I believe that what bigcheese says is correct, you're going to see that through an OSSC unless you do the dejitter mod.

The v2 NESRGB has dejitter built in, you don't need an additional mod.

I had a v1.4 NESRGB installed into my NTSC frontloader in 2018 along with the palette switch. How complicated is it to install the dejitter board while still keeping the RGB and switch active? Now that x2 is released that already has the dejitter onboard, I can't find instructions for the old install. I'm already buying a dejitter for my SNES, so I'd like to understand this before I do so I can buy both.