shmups.system11.org

Was there a production run of Nintendo MULTI OUT plugs somewhere? (Not 3D Printed) I have been looking to get hold of some well made connectors for some time to make my own RGB SCART cables.

Only on 1.4 boards and after, and he recommends shorting it by default.

there was. i bought them in like 2016 i think. can't remember where. i will try to figure it out if i can and get back to you, but i'm not sure. they are not official, but they are molded rather than printed and clip together. my guess is that it's what the cable make lady uses

yes. thanks. that is covered in his instructions. i could used ttl for my PVM, but i can't imagine any benefit to it

Thats because csync can be connected in various ways and Tim says to connect csync to the multi-out composite video pin. If you are connecting csync to the multi-out pin 3 it should be TTL sync to keep compatibility with stock csync consoles.

You mean to keep compatibility with stock csync cables.

And NES never had a csync cable.
And no standard cable works with a nesrgb board.
They will have caps or resistors and NESRGB needs simple passthru.

That is why I remove the 220uF caps from the RGB on NESRGB. Then stock snes cables do work correctly.

hey! interesting. maybe i should do this. do ypu have more info or a link?

best,

brian

Voultar did a youtube video about this a while ago.

I went the opposite direction and bought two SNES RGBS cables from Retro-Access. One I re-labeled as "NESRGB" and took all of the components out of the cable to make it a straight passthrough.

This might not be an option if you're going for high end, molded, factory made cables like the pukapunch. Hand soldered retro-access cables for sure. Heck, I always fix her cables when I get them. Not a fan of cheap china caps.

huh. i cant find it. looks like there isnt anything older than a year on his channel anymore. maybe took it down

if i can't find a guide explaining this, would you mind just giving me the gist of it?

am i just removing two caps from the mod kit? what do i do, just jump across the pads or thru holes the caps are soldered to?

Id to what the EE that designed it does and use simple passthru cabling.. there's a reason those caps are on the board and I wish more bypass mods did the same.

Fitting caps and resistors in cables is a shit fight at times and it's better to have them console end anyway to avoid coupling signals on long runs.

Retro-Access typically puts the resistors as needed in the console end of the cable. She's got 3D-printed shells on everything now that can be opened with a Phillips screwdriver. very handy for inspecting work and pin assignments on that end of the cable.

He removes the capacitors in his video about NESRGB install in AV Famicom. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MuwkiV4aPs&t=1256s

@FBX Thats awesome that the console side shells can be opened that easy now.

Just because one can design a new motor, doesn’t make them an expert mechanic.

FWIW. I found that leaving the caps on the NESRGB had no side effect on PVM, XRGB or OSSC.

ok, I figured it out. it was hd retrovision, and they are sold out now. https://shop.hdretrovision.com/products ... -connector

I noticed Console5 has some:

https://console5.com/store/nintendo-sne ... pair.html/

If you're feeling lazy, I also covered just the cap removal in an update to my NESRGB install video: https://youtu.be/CvmSTbPKvoA. Credit still goes to Voultar, though, since I'm literally just rehashing what he did.

Does anyone have insight as to what I'm doing wrong with my install? I spent all day following etim's guide wiring up the NTSC front loader NESRGB, which I got from OldSkoolConsoles. I only had 22g solid core wire to use. I tested prior to installation, my game worked fine via composite output. Now I use the NES SCART cable from retro-access with attached audio cable and I get a blank screen, no sound. The screen is almost flickering black, and my OSSC registers RGBS 262p 15.73kHz 60.05Hz. I confirmed the OSSC working with another SCART device as well. I connected the palette switch correctly (I think), as well as the RGB adapter, audio, and voltage regulator. I even tried out the old composite video/audio and those aren't working either. I hope my chip is inserted the correct way? I did not wire the A and B audio wire, because I couldn't determine where they go. I read to pins on the CPU, but couldn't find a picture anywhere.

Any suggestions would be great, see the picture here: https://imgur.com/a/JpwzFoM

Audio goes to pin 1 and 2 of your DIN. Unless you have a separate audio out, in which case you connect audio to that. It's impossible to tell from that one picture what you might have done wrong as far as video is concerned. It looks like you connected composite from the board to Blue on the connector. But I can't really tell where all the wires are going. I'd start with hooking up audio to check if that works.

I'll certainly check into that connection, though I'm pretty sure it's where it needs to be. So I have to solder to pins 1+2 to the DIN, but I don't know which chip that is. I couldn't find a schematic anywhere, especially on etim. Is it the other larger chip under the NESRGB?

I forgot to mention, it took me ~2 hours to desolder the PPU, which got extremely hot occasionally. Would that be enough to fry the chip? Is there a way (other than what I've done) to test if the PPU is still good?

No I was mistaken and thought you didn't have audio OUT connected. But it's audio IN which you haven't hooked up. Audio A goes to pin 2 of the CPU and audio B goes to pin 1. The CPU is the IC that's partly under the NESRGB board. It sticks out on the right in your picture. It's marked as such on the board.

The DIN I referred to is the connector that you hook your cable up to.

There's also no indication on the board which pins are 1,2. Can't tell which end they start from, usually there's some label, but nothing here.

It's the top right pin and the one next to it, in your picture. The IC is marked with a half circle indentation on one end of it. That's what indicates the orientation of the chip and thus where pin 1 is.

I'll wire it up this evening. Any way to check I didn't burn out the PPU?

I got it soldered up, but the wiring diagram says A to pin 1 and B to pin 2, you said the opposite. I followed etim's diagram (https://etim.net.au/nesrgb/installation-nes/NESRGB-Wiring_Diagram-NES.pdf). Also, for the audio jack, there are 3 leads. I attached the long lead to ground, then both short leads connected to audio out. Regardless, I don't get audio or video from SCART or AV. I still wonder if I torched the PPU. Also weird that the OSSC seems to get the correct signal, but doesn't output anything!

Yeah I shouldn't do this from memory, the diagram is obviously right.
So no audio either? That makes it less likely something is wrong with the PPU, because it doesn't provide audio.

Hi guys,

I'm after some advice please. I recently picked up a mint condition, practically NOS AV famicom and want to get the NES RGB board fitted. I live in the U.K and am looking to use oldskoolconsoles - http://www.oldskoolconsoles.com/product ... od-service. Have any members here use them before and do they do a nice clean job and treat your console well i.e. I don't want to come back with any marks or scratches.

I really want to keep it tidy and not have a pallet switch installed and will probably ask for the firmware to be flashed with FBX's Smooth pallet. Regarding the in-game reset board, I have heard these might cause issues with some games. How have people found these?

Finally I want to use Retro Gaming Cables Packapunch shielded cables, which I have for my other consoles. Should I ask to have the caps removed so I can use a 470 CSYNC SNES NTSC Scart cable or order a CSYNC PASS Through:https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/packapunch-range/super-nintendo-packapunch-upgrade/packapunch-super-nintendo-entertainment-system-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-gold-scart

Please let me know your thoughts, it would be most appreciated. Looking at composite video is hurting my eyes....