Thanks for the quick answers viletim

viletim wrote:
- 1. Sony CXA (unknown origin?)
- 2. Smooth (Firebrandx November 2017)
- 3. YUV (Nestopia 2013)
I'll update the package of firmware that Firebrandx is hosting to V2 when I get a chance (maybe in a week or so).
Brilliant, I really like Firebrandx's palettes so thats great news, thank you

viletim wrote:
Yes THS7374, 4 channels Red, Green, Blue, Luma. I removed 4 capacitors (they cost money).
S-video is still fine. It's the old fashioned video output drivers in the video encoder that need the coupling caps on the outputs. It's not something inherently required by s-video.
Ah I see, so since Luma now goes through the THS7374 I guess a 220uF capacitor isn't really necessary anymore.
I'm still curious about the switch to a THS7374 though, was it just a case of using a more modern video driver made sense? and have you tried comparing the THS7374 RGB output to the BH7236AF? I was just curious if there was any visable difference/improvement in the picture quality when compared to the NESRGB V1.X.
Also, might there be a jumper to enable/disable the THS7374's LPF? and what is the stock/default selection? (I could be mistaken but I believe most video encoders like the BH7236AF have a built-in LPF as standard?)
...Oh and if you dont mind could I just make one suggestion. On the "Dejitter for NESRGB 1.X hardware installation guide" for point 6:-
viletim wrote:
6. Isolate the PPU pin 18 (clock) from the NESRGB board. I recommend cutting the small part of the pin off so it no longer makes contact with the socket. I DO NOT recommend bending the pin away from the socket at that causes the pin to fatigue and possibly break off. Solder a wire between the isolated PPU pin 18 and palette pad 2.
Is it not possible to just cut the trace leading from pin 18 on the NESRGB board? Or from photos it looks like there might even be a resistor you could remove? I only suggest this as should anything else go wrong with the adjustments and the NESRGB board is damaged, the user could at least easily replace the NESRGB V1.X board with a V2.0, but if you cut the PPU leg your going to have to mess about soldering a wire to the 'stump' even on the new V2.0 (Unless I have misunderstood point 6 entirely?)
Also, perhaps you might want to update the thread title and first post so people know there's a new V2.0 revision available?