B&O MX4/6/7000 - troubleshooting and general information

[Drachenherz]

Cool story: I can pick up a mx 6000 on monday. I guess I'm set for when my custom built supergun will arrive somtimes this month.

[Drachenherz]

Picked up the MX6000 yesterday. Phugg, it's one of the older models with the 1.1 software, so no service mode available via the remote. Hello servicemode-mod, here I come. Fagin, any idea how the jumper-plug is called? And how I best open the TV to reach the pcb where the service-mode jumper is localised?

Picture quality of the mx 6000 is actually really nice, and I really love how incredibly tate-able this crt is. And I'm really digging the low depth of this TV, too: it'll fit just nicely in a IKea "ivar" shelf without standing out. i just need to reinforce the shelf because large CRTs are really heavy.

I hope I'll find some time to do the modding and the setup of the shelf etc. in the next days to come.

[fagin]

JST plug.

Erm..... you remove the screws from the case! They are security headed screws so you'll need the appropriate "bit". One in each rear corner of the set and then slid the cover back.

[angryswede]

Picked up the MX6000 yesterday. Phugg, it's one of the older models with the 1.1 software, so no service mode available via the remote. Hello servicemode-mod, here I come. Fagin, any idea how the jumper-plug is called? And how I best open the TV to reach the pcb where the service-mode jumper is localised?

The jumper is located right above the inputs on the av board. It's the first thing you'll see and it's clearly marked. Just watch out where you put that screwdriver

[Drachenherz]

Thx guys for the tipps! Yeah, okay, so it is just those 4 screws om the cover, good. And yes, I got the needed bits for it.

And YES I know that I should be VERY careful working on the insides of a CRT, the tube still carries dangerous or even lethal currents even after unplugging the thing.

[blizzz]

Picked up my B&O MX4000 today. First thing I did: drop it... Just broke the glass screen and turns out it still works. After some adjustments in the service menu the picture looks brilliant, despite the broken contrast screen or maybe because of it xD Worlds apart from the SEG TV I used in the 90s and also better than the Trinitron my parents still use today.

I think I'll pick up another cheap MX4000 without remote though. The one I got does look kinda demolished

[Overkill]

looks brilliant on TV/movies or in games? Everyone seems to like very much the B&O MX series. And it seems im the few who dislike it for games. And i can't even compare it to my sony trinitron.

[blizzz]

looks brilliant on TV/movies or in games? Everyone seems to like very much the B&O MX series. And it seems im the few who dislike it for games. And i can't even compare it to my sony trinitron.

I only tried 240p games. On the right border (~5mm) the image is squeezed a bit, but other than that it's great. I'm sure that a BVM looks better, but I'm very happy with it. Could it be that your B&O has a different tube? I've read that they used two kinds.

I ordered another one today

[fagin]

Th 20" versions used a Phillips tube..... not a patch on the Sony Trinitron tubes imo.

[blizzz]

B&O lists Phillips and Videocolour as tube types in the service manual for the LX5000,6000 and MX4000,6000 range. But might be that the MX4000 always comes with a Phillips tube.

As I said, the only Trinitron I know is a Sony KV-29FX60D at my parents', which never really amazed me even though it has a good picture too. I don't doubt that fagin's Sony is better, but for me the MX4000 is the best CRT I've used. Which to be honest doesn't say all that much because I just don't have the devices for comparison. But it doesn't weigh >50kg, looks nice and was easy to find locally. I also like that you can set it up at an angle.

[fagin]

Don't get me wrong they are great TV's and look awesome. I'm referring to the older (dark cased) Sony Trinitron tubes & associated chassis. I never got on with the later silver based cased ones myself.

[blizzz]

I salvaged the second MX4000 I got today for repair parts for my first one (second one doesn't have the service menu :/ ). Turned it on with the contrast glass for the first time and... was disappointed. The picture looks rather dull. So I removed the screen again

Now it doesn't look as modern as with the screen, but the picture is much more vibrant. Just as it should be for 240p games in my opinion.

[Jelly]

I want to thank this thread for bringing my attention to the B & O TVs.
I the other day I managed to find myself a B&O MX8000 in close to mint condition with the remote for 40 euro. According to the seller it had seen very little use and was produced and bought recently. What amazed me the most was actually the sound, I've never heard a TV sound as great as the B & O active speakers.

It's a great compromize between old obsolete technology and modern aesthetics, I can now enjoy my retro video games on a screen that looks great in my living room. Hauling my old black 28″ Trinitron workhorse to the dump will be such a relief.

Anyone with any experience of the MX8000 model? How does it compare to the older ones?

[futurematt5]

Hi, it's really interesting to see the various posts on this TV range. What I would say is that tuning the focus chassis control on my MX7000 made a visible improvement to the sharpness of the image (thanks to fagin for his tuning). And that was after making all the other easy adjustments eg brilliance and geometry, and using RGB of course.

Looking at some of the images posted, they are DEFINITELY blurred compared with my MX4000 and 7000 which I believe are tuned as good as they'll go. I don't think this is down to NTSC signal, as my saturn and PS2 use both and I can vouch that NTSC images look as sharp as any 50hz PAL image. In fact, as the image is stretched you get better scanlines (although this can all be tweaked with the service menu).

So, the following are all useful for maximising image quality:

1 - Adjust brilliance down to below 20
2 - Adjust geometry
3 - Adjust screen voltage on chassis*
4 - Adjust focus on chassis*

* These should only be carried out with extreme care as you no doubt are well aware already. As you need to adjust focus while seeing the image, it can be tricky unless a friend is helping. The picture goes in and out of focus very quickly with minimal rotation of the adjust knobs so you need a very steady hand.

My overall opinions on the different models; I know fagin has a couple of different and can better explain the different chassis types and features, as the common issue is whether the remote will access service menu without using the hardware service mode feature. All I can say is that any beo4 remote can be programmed to use all of the necessary functions for geometry etc. I cannot vouch for the beo1000 nor any third party copies.

The MX4000 seems the best choice overall and seems to have all the features enabled.
The MX7000 also appears to have all features enabled. With correct tuning (as a larger CRT tube can be more troublesome in terms of focus and geometry) I believe the image on a 26.5 inch MX7000 or MX8000 is as sharp as the MX4000.

If it's killer audio you want go for an MX7000 or 8000.

The only thing I don't like about these sets is something nobody has brought up funnily enough. Yes it can deinterlace which is marvellous, but it sure does a shitty job of displaying interlaced images without scanline flicker. Yes the image quality is excellent (DVDs look sublime on the MX7000 believe me) but your eyes - if they are sensitive like mine are - will catch the scanline flicker.

It has actually put me off running my DC through it to play stuff like Border Down. In any case I much prefer running anything in 480p through a TFT.

Glad so many people are discovering these great TVs. Just hope you all manage to find one in great working order, and if you do mess around with the chassis, keep one hand in your pocket and away from your balls ; )
Matt

[Drachenherz]

Hey Matt, thanks for all your input. I'll see what I can do about posting the excell sheet on my HP, can tell you tonight.

[ThEmperorIsDead]

I picked up a MX4002 last weekend as neither of my Trinitrons tate very well unfortunately, everything works well except that the volume reverts back to being ridiculously loud each time it is turned on. At first I had the issue where it wouldn't save my picture setting which I fixed by using the "store" button but this seems to have no effect on the sound options. It's not a big deal, just a little annoying...any pointers appreciated.

[fagin]

I would concur with what Matt has stated about varying quality of these sets. I have a theory as to why this is and how you can identify the different versions (there are different versions even within the same model).

I'm picking up another B&O tomorrow so should be able to detail my hunch over the next few days.

[Jelly]

Have any one of you gotten the 480i to 240p deinterlacing to work on a MX8000 model? I'm following the instructions in the futurematt5 video, but I seem to have a different system menu.

[futurematt5]

I don't have any exp of the 8000 but when in picture menu you want to be sure the beo4 is in shift mode before hitting 7, usual error is hitting shift while remote signal is readable by the set. Ie point the remote away while selecting shift, leave while displaying shift on lcd, then hit 7 while pointed at tv.

[SuperPang]

Hello fellas.

I just picked up an MX4000. Sexiest CRT ever and no mistake. It seems to be the 1992 model with the more basic Beolink 1000 remote. How do I get into the service menu? MENU,1,1,PLAY doesn't seem to work unless I'm missing something. It just shows the software number (1.1)

There are 3 consoles I want to use:
Japanese Saturn - looks great.
Analogue Interactive CMVS - picture a bit dull even with contrast and colour maxed out.
RGB modded Japanese N64 - lovely picture except moving images roll as if the V-hold needs adjusting.

Geometry is decent enough but the screen needs shifting to the right. Convergence is excellent.

My other niggle is that there's some buzz from the speakers. Weirdly it happens when bright images are on screen or the neo geo cross hatch etc. I actually thought it was the flyback until I turned the volume down!

EDIT: Balls, it looks like you have to take the back off and short something to get into service mode on the early models.

[ThEmperorIsDead]

Yeah, my 4002 is like that (fitted a switch), Mine now has great picture but needed pot adjustments & a fair bit of playing with the service menu to get best geometry.
You might notice the tube always has a sort of curve at the sides which shows more when playing games in tate position as some hud features will show it up, I have noticed this on a few B&O models. My Trinitrons do not have this issue but do not tate well at all (screens lose colour in places, degaussing wand does not help)...so it's six of one and half a dozen of the other

[fagin]

Hello fellas.

I just picked up an MX4000. Sexiest CRT ever and no mistake. It seems to be the 1992 model with the more basic Beolink 1000 remote. How do I get into the service menu? MENU,1,1,PLAY doesn't seem to work unless I'm missing something. It just shows the software number (1.1)

There are 3 consoles I want to use:
Japanese Saturn - looks great.
Analogue Interactive CMVS - picture a bit dull even with contrast and colour maxed out.
RGB modded Japanese N64 - lovely picture except moving images roll as if the V-hold needs adjusting.

Geometry is decent enough but the screen needs shifting to the right. Convergence is excellent.

My other niggle is that there's some buzz from the speakers. Weirdly it happens when bright images are on screen or the neo geo cross hatch etc. I actually thought it was the flyback until I turned the volume down!

EDIT: Balls, it looks like you have to take the back off and short something to get into service mode on the early models.

You have an early model.... I need to get my video up to explain a) how to spot one and b) why the picture is not as good as the later models.

[Cade Mentality]

Fagin, please include colour, brilliance settings in your YT video. That would be quite handy. I know these may range from system to system and even game to game but general setting config could be useful. Damn futurematt for bringing b&o to the masses they do look the biz though. Even my mrs, who has ZERO interest in my retro passion, made a positive remark about my MX4000.

Just to add, since gaining entry to the service menu on my Sony Trin and adjusting some geometry settings, it's picture seems to be better than the mx4000 (tin hat on! ).

[ThEmperorIsDead]

Very interested to see that vid.

[fagin]

I'll do my best to explain and go through what I can (and remember to lol). Time is against me at the moment, but I hope to be in a position to do this next week.

[Adderall]

picked up an MX4000 today.

Very disappointed

Was wondering if anybody can help me!

I am using a step-up converter to go from 110 to 220.

The TV has a European plug.

When I plug it in.... there is buzzing. I don't want to FRY anything.... so can anybody look at this video and see if I'm doing something wrong?

Skip to 1:02 to hear the buzzing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLHCWybehKQ

[Fudoh]

It's very well possible that the internal power supply is only suited for 50Hz power outlets, while you're feeding 60Hz.

[Adderall]

is it dangerous to have it buzzing like that, or can I leave it on for a few minutes to test picture/games/etc ??

[fagin]

To confirm.... where is the buzzing coming from? The TV or the invertor?

[Adderall]

To confirm.... where is the buzzing coming from? The TV or the invertor?

It is definitely the TV