Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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Josh128
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

ASDR wrote:
Josh128 wrote:The 3 sets are probably convergence rings and the two separate are probably the purity rings. Neither will do anything for geometry / bowing. When you adjust them, how close they are together determines the intensity of the effect when you rotate the pair together. Did you find the H-STAT pot yet?
No, they should do exactly what you're saying they don't:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otwPa-nhcTg

:-)


btw, nobody else wanting to comment on the yoke clamp screw thing I asked? I'm really curious how y'all decide how tightly to tighten that clamp around the fragile neck without breaking anything.
Man, Ive never seen anything like that. My big 36" has that "center bowing" ever so slightly. Purity rings dont normally do that, convergence rings definitely dont do that. Its very hard to see which rings that is. Looks like the ones on the rear, Im guessing thats the purity rings. I'd be curious to see if it fucks up purity on full screen colors when you try that-- but Im really tempted to crack open the behemoth and give it a shot.

As far as clamp tightness, it really only has to be tight enough to "grip" onto the neck. If you are looking for inch pounds of torque I have no idea, but you will be OK to tighten the screw until you feel the resistance of it tightening on the neck. Once you feel that tightness you can go about 1/2 turn more and that should be plenty good.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:For the top, did you try the UPIN adjustment?

For the side compression, use the horizontal S-Correction adjustment. SCOR maybe?
Yes but it didn't help.

Is that what SCOR does? I can try that.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

The more I look at it, I don't think the linearity is off too much, it's that the red and white squares on the left side of the screen overlap way more than they do in the right. Is there a way to fix that short of adjusting the yoke again because I really don't want to do that as everything else is starting to look good.

Could the top unevenness be fixed by adjusting those back rings?
tongshadow
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by tongshadow »

Dont spend too much time with flat CRT TVs, they dont have the sophisticated and advanced circuits to correct distortions, so geometry will always be off somewhere, specially on big sets. I have 3 non-flat sets and they dont have any of the wonky geometry you see on flat sets. In retrospect, flat CRTs were a mistake.

Time to hunt a D-Series fellas!
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

tongshadow wrote:Dont spend too much time with flat CRT TVs, they dont have the sophisticated and advanced circuits to correct distortions, so geometry will always be off somewhere, specially on big sets. I have 3 non-flat sets and they dont have any of the wonky geometry you see on flat sets. In retrospect, flat CRTs were a mistake.
I have a nice 27" Sharp that does component. The problem is that it no geometry adjusts whatsoever. They're there in the service menu but do absolutely nothing.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I've been doing some testing and honestly I think I've gone as far as I can. Yes there's a weird distortion on the top of the screen but it's not noticeable until you look for it (but then it's all you can see). I'm going to try some different systems and see how they look. If they're 'acceptable' then I'll close her up. I don't think I can do much more without adjusting the yoke again and I don't want to do that.
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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

Josh128 wrote:
ASDR wrote:
Josh128 wrote:The 3 sets are probably convergence rings and the two separate are probably the purity rings. Neither will do anything for geometry / bowing. When you adjust them, how close they are together determines the intensity of the effect when you rotate the pair together. Did you find the H-STAT pot yet?
No, they should do exactly what you're saying they don't:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otwPa-nhcTg

:-)


btw, nobody else wanting to comment on the yoke clamp screw thing I asked? I'm really curious how y'all decide how tightly to tighten that clamp around the fragile neck without breaking anything.
Man, Ive never seen anything like that. My big 36" has that "center bowing" ever so slightly. Purity rings dont normally do that, convergence rings definitely dont do that. Its very hard to see which rings that is. Looks like the ones on the rear, Im guessing thats the purity rings. I'd be curious to see if it fucks up purity on full screen colors when you try that-- but Im really tempted to crack open the behemoth and give it a shot.
They're a separate pair of rings way in front of the six rings. Large Trinitrons have them. Y-Splitter or something like that was the name? Should be in the service manual? But they definitvely adjust bowing. Most TVs do not have a VCEN/VPIN setting so you have to adjust stuff like this.
Josh128 wrote: As far as clamp tightness, it really only has to be tight enough to "grip" onto the neck. If you are looking for inch pounds of torque I have no idea, but you will be OK to tighten the screw until you feel the resistance of it tightening on the neck. Once you feel that tightness you can go about 1/2 turn more and that should be plenty good.
Ok, I was just hoping for something more scientific like you all use a torque wrench or something. I've never broken anything but it's always kind of a bad feeling, thinking I'm about to crack the neck of the tube.
Josh128 wrote: For the side compression, use the horizontal S-Correction adjustment. SCOR maybe?
SLIN. There's like 3 TVs in the world that have that setting, though. I think when there's serious horizontal linearity issues your options seem to be 1. swap caps 2. buy other TV :/
Tempest_2084 wrote: So as it stands now I have a few problems that I'd like to fix before closing this set up.

1. There's a blue shadow on the lower left side that I can't seem to fix with strips for some reason.
2. The top horizontal line has some convergence issues that go all the way across. I don't know if one of the pots on the yoke would fix this or not but I'm afraid of mucking up the convergence elsewhere.
3. The top boxes on the edges have a 'hook' on them that I can't seem to fix
4. The column of boxes second from the left side seem to be smaller than the ones near it. Is this something that's fixable? I think it's called linearity but all the controls on the SM are for vertical linearity.
5. Not sure if this is related to #4 or if it's just the uneven top, but while testing Metroid on my NES I noticed that the blocks across the top 'warped' a bit as I moved them off the screen to the left. If this is due to the crappy and uneven top line geometry would shrinking the horizontal size a bit fix that or just move the distortion further down the screen? I honestly wouldn't mind losing a quarter of an inch off each side if it fixed that distortion.
Well, you've done a good job, it looks way better than before. Hope you can relate a bit to the it's a PITA / nightmare post / guide I wrote.

- Forget about fixing convergence it the very corners, like the last 0.5cm of the screen. It's just not meant to be on consumer TVs IMHO. You'll rarely see it and fixing it will likely cause other, worse issues.
- The hook thing is something I tried to explain in my longer post. You might be able to fix some of this at the expense of the very corner area
- You have some pretty severe horizontal linearity issues at the left, there are likely no controls to adjust any of this and you'd be a madman trying to fix that with gluing magnets to the tube
- Make sure to test your screen with the scrolling grid test, it makes seeing certain issues way easier than any static test screen
- Really, just adjust those pots on the yoke. It's a 5min job and you'll at worst get it a little better
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: - The hook thing is something I tried to explain in my longer post. You might be able to fix some of this at the expense of the very corner area
Did you? I must have missed that.
ASDR wrote: - You have some pretty severe horizontal linearity issues at the left, there are likely no controls to adjust any of this and you'd be a madman trying to fix that with gluing magnets to the tube
Can that be fixed by readjusting the yoke? I assume they can since they weren't there before. Which way would I move the yoke to fix that?

I am noticing a weird ripple in some games as they scroll to the left, but I think it's more of an issue with the uneven top border than the linearity. Either that or the entire top left side of the screen has an upward tilt that's hard to see. I should try and get a video, but it's really obvious in a game like Metroid that has a scrolling boarder of square blocks at the top.

At this point would it be worth.. well not exactly starting over, but doing some major yoke adjustments to try and fix some of these issues? I can probably do it a lot quicker this time as I've gotten better at it. Or am I unlikely to fix anything? Honestly if I can get that top boarder looking a little more even it would probably help a bunch.
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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

Tempest_2084 wrote:
ASDR wrote: - The hook thing is something I tried to explain in my longer post. You might be able to fix some of this at the expense of the very corner area
Did you? I must have missed that.
You asked me about my methodology, I wrote a lengthy post explaining it.
Tempest_2084 wrote:
ASDR wrote: - You have some pretty severe horizontal linearity issues at the left, there are likely no controls to adjust any of this and you'd be a madman trying to fix that with gluing magnets to the tube
Can that be fixed by readjusting the yoke? I assume they can since they weren't there before. Which way would I move the yoke to fix that?
Maybe... but what else is that going to mess up. Look, you ask a lot about what to do, but the truth is nobody can quite tell you what way you have to tilt what on your specific set. There are general concepts, but in the end of the day nobody is there with you in the room, you'll just have to try this out and see what happens on screen.
Tempest_2084 wrote: I am noticing a weird ripple in some games as they scroll to the left, but I think it's more of an issue with the uneven top border than the linearity. Either that or the entire top left side of the screen has an upward tilt that's hard to see. I should try and get a video, but it's really obvious in a game like Metroid that has a scrolling boarder of square blocks at the top.
Like I said, scrolling grid pattern is made for ths so you don't have to play a game to see it.
Tempest_2084 wrote: At this point would it be worth.. well not exactly starting over, but doing some major yoke adjustments to try and fix some of these issues? I can probably do it a lot quicker this time as I've gotten better at it. Or am I unlikely to fix anything? Honestly if I can get that top boarder looking a little more even it would probably help a bunch.
Well, it really depends on you. First, like mentioned before, these big flat screens are a nightmare and they just have a lot of issues. But if you think this is a fun way to spend your evenings, go for it! You might learn something and can probably do at least a little better. Like I mentioned in the post about the FX30, I've re-done the magnets, yoke and service menu on that set multiple times and each time it got noticeably better. Whether that's a sane way to spend your time is really up to you to decide :D
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: You asked me about my methodology, I wrote a lengthy post explaining it.
I remember that post, I just must have missed where you talked about fixing the hook.
ASDR wrote: Maybe... but what else is that going to mess up. Look, you ask a lot about what to do, but the truth is nobody can quite tell you what way you have to tilt what on your specific set. There are general concepts, but in the end of the day nobody is there with you in the room, you'll just have to try this out and see what happens on screen.
Well I can try, if I really screw it up I guess I start over.
ASDR wrote: Like I said, scrolling grid pattern is made for ths so you don't have to play a game to see it.
I did the scroll grid and to me it's hard to see, but in some games it's really obvious. I guess I'll have to try some scrolling games and see what happens.
ASDR wrote: Well, it really depends on you. First, like mentioned before, these big flat screens are a nightmare and they just have a lot of issues. But if you think this is a fun way to spend your evenings, go for it! You might learn something and can probably do at least a little better. Like I mentioned in the post about the FX30, I've re-done the magnets, yoke and service menu on that set multiple times and each time it got noticeably better. Whether that's a sane way to spend your time is really up to you to decide :D
The linearity thing is what's bothering me I think. I'm sure I can get the geometry better (I might not even have to remove the wedges for that, just make little movements to the yoke with them in), but that linearity issue is new and it's hard to see when you're behind the TV with the yoke in hand. Where in the test suite is the linearity circles? I couldn't find it.


EDIT: I just ran some quick tests with my Saturn, PSX, TurboDuo, and Genesis. The linearity thing on the left side of the screen either isn't bothering me or isn't noticeable enough to worry about so that's good because trying to fix that is going to be tough. The thing that's bothering me is the uneven top, especially towards the upper left. That needs to be fixed. If I can fix that and not screw anything else up I should be good. The blue convergence issue in the lower left quadrant doesn't show up much in games so that's good. I guess it helps that most games with white boarders or text tended to use a black or blue background so it blends in unlike the red bleed on the right that I mostly fixed.

I think what I'm going to do is slightly loosen the clamp and attempt to move the yoke just a smidgen to see if I can make any difference in the top left geometry. If I leave the supports in then I shouldn't be able to make too drastic of a change. I was hoping to do this with strips but all I seem to accomplish that way is screwing up the convergence.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by SuperSpongo »

ASDR, does the FX30E have these rings from the WEGA video? I used to own one, but the horizontal linearity was too bad for enjoying sidescrolling games, I had to get rid of it. It also had the "sagging trinitron corner" which I couldn't quite get rid of.
I'd love to revisit this set and fiddle around with those rings. Picture was really sharp and vibrant otherwise.
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wwse
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by wwse »

Hello everyone. There are a couple of questions. Thanks for answers

1. In April 2020 I bought in Poland cheap Sony BVM A14F5M for parts (just in case for my A14F5M). The seller sent me a photo - the monitor was fully functional, except for the green tint in the upper half of the screen.
Image
Due to coronavirus restrictions and closed borders, it was possible to receive it only in the late spring of 2021. Turning it on, I saw the same green tint as in the seller's photo.
But a few weeks ago, turning it on, I saw that everything was fine with the monitor - the green tint had disappeared.
Image
In both cases i used sony ps3 60gb cecha01 with bkm-68x via component cable.
What's the matter - what could have changed so that the green tint disappeared?

2. A few years ago I found an article where a guy made a replacement of the crt tube from PVM 20M4 to 20L5(https://sneeknet.io/index.php/2019/02/0 ... tube-swap/).
Does crt tube of PVM20L4 fit? In my country it is difficult to find a 20-inch PVM or BVM with 31Khz+.
I have an idea to order a PVM D20L5 from Japan and make a replacement.
Unfortunately a working monitor (with tube) is not possible to greet from Japan - only without a tube.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Ooo a microwave model! I call them that because they have all those buttons around the tube and it looks like a microwave to me.

Maybe there was some sort of magnetization issue that disappeared?
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Josh128
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

Dont look a gift horse in the mouth. If you got a good deal because of the issue, be happy!
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

If I wanted to try and play with magnets on my tube, what type sholud I use? I think to fix a few geometry issues I need an actual magnet and not a convergence strip. After seeing what ASDR went through I'm afraid of using too powerful of a magnet and causing permanent damage to the grill. I have some pretty weak kitchen fridge magnets, but I think even those might be too strong. Is there something on Amazon I can maybe buy?
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wwse
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by wwse »

Tempest_2084 wrote:Ooo a microwave model! I call them that because they have all those buttons around the tube and it looks like a microwave to me.

Maybe there was some sort of magnetization issue that disappeared?
yes, something similar is visible))

it's just strange that the problem disappeared after 3 months of storage in the closet, but not in the previous year.
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wwse
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by wwse »

Josh128 wrote:Dont look a gift horse in the mouth. If you got a good deal because of the issue, be happy!
I see no reason to rejoice if at any moment everything can come back?
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by maxtherabbit »

wwse wrote:
Josh128 wrote:Dont look a gift horse in the mouth. If you got a good deal because of the issue, be happy!
I see no reason to rejoice if at any moment everything can come back?
wait and see, it is very possible it doesn't come back
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Josh128
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

I use 1cm round x 1 or 1.5mm thick neos. They are powerful for their size and dont demagnetize when hit by the degaussing coil. Ive been using them for years, never had one damage or magnetize a mask.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I decided to start over and see what I could do. I've come close to getting something decent but there's some convergence issues that are too bad and I need to start over (like bad convergence, not little fixable things). fiddled with it for 40 minutes and walked away defeated. If it's anything like last time I'll just get lucky and most the geometry will be good enough for my to start playing with the service menu.

EDIT: Guess what? I do have four wedges! I found the fourth one stuck on the floor. Using four wedges makes adjusting this SOOOO much easier. I think I can get this nearly perfect now.

Oh and my yellow issue on the side? I think that's because when I have the clamp too loose the yoke can slide back a little when I push the wedges in. Gotta keep it tighter than I want to when I put the wedges in or it's gonna move on me.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I'm definitely getting closer. I can get the grid to look alright in a minute or two, but then I go to the convergence grid and you can see that there's all kinds of horizontal convergence issues at the top and bottom of the grid. If I fix it in the center (by pulling the yoke back a smidge) then it gets really bad on the sides and vice versa. I just can't seem to win the convergence game

These pictures are after I played with the yoke for a few minutes. I've had it much better.
Spoiler
Image
Image
I think I'm just going to have to live with the uneven top. Either I get the top looking decent but the bottom is way off or I get that hooking upwards in the corners. No matter what I do the top left center of the grid seems to always have a dip in it, so maybe that's just how it's going to be.
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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

SuperSpongo wrote:ASDR, does the FX30E have these rings from the WEGA video? I used to own one, but the horizontal linearity was too bad for enjoying sidescrolling games, I had to get rid of it. It also had the "sagging trinitron corner" which I couldn't quite get rid of.
I'd love to revisit this set and fiddle around with those rings. Picture was really sharp and vibrant otherwise.
Nope, no y-splitter / axis correction magnet on this one :/

Yes, it's an excellent set, one of the best IMHO.

You'll have to fiddle with magnets if you want to get rid of the corner, sucks, I know.
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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

Josh128 wrote:I use 1cm round x 1 or 1.5mm thick neos. They are powerful for their size and dont demagnetize when hit by the degaussing coil. Ive been using them for years, never had one damage or magnetize a mask.
The neodymium ones I got here are WAYYYYYYY too strong, I ordered some smaller ones :-)
Tempest_2084 wrote:
ASDR wrote: You asked me about my methodology, I wrote a lengthy post explaining it.
I remember that post, I just must have missed where you talked about fixing the hook.
I didn't talk about that specifically, but look at your screen. You got your corners perfectly straight, but then you got that curl going on on both sides at the top. Maybe with some upper corner pin you could lessen the curl, even if that causes a slight dent in the edges. You'll hardly notice the very corner, but you'll always see that curl in vertically scrolling games. Or at least that's what I found to be true.
Tempest_2084 wrote: EDIT: I just ran some quick tests with my Saturn, PSX, TurboDuo, and Genesis. The linearity thing on the left side of the screen either isn't bothering me or isn't noticeable enough to worry about so that's good because trying to fix that is going to be tough. The thing that's bothering me is the uneven top, especially towards the upper left. That needs to be fixed. If I can fix that and not screw anything else up I should be good.
Do keep in mind you got those two extra rings for just that kind of bow, see the video I posted.

Also, like I tried to explain in my lengthier post, don't just look at the very edges. I know it's easiest to see any defects there, but you also got a bit of a sag in the horizontal lines below the top. Don't correct just the corners, it'll cause worse warping of the image towards the center.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: I didn't talk about that specifically, but look at your screen. You got your corners perfectly straight, but then you got that curl going on on both sides at the top. Maybe with some upper corner pin you could lessen the curl, even if that causes a slight dent in the edges. You'll hardly notice the very corner, but you'll always see that curl in vertically scrolling games. Or at least that's what I found to be true.
Ah ok. I see what you mean. The distortion issue I'm seeing is probably due to the curl then.
ASDR wrote: Do keep in mind you got those two extra rings for just that kind of bow, see the video I posted.
The rings are only good if the bowing is symmetrical and in the center, which I haven't had too much of. They do help though.
ASDR wrote: Also, like I tried to explain in my lengthier post, don't just look at the very edges. I know it's easiest to see any defects there, but you also got a bit of a sag in the horizontal lines below the top. Don't correct just the corners, it'll cause worse warping of the image towards the center.
Yeah I think I understand now. Since I've decided to start completely over (partially because of the bad horizontal convergence towards the top and bottom) the most important things I want to fix (other than basic geometry) are:

1. The horizontal linearity problem on the left. I honestly haven't had much luck fixing this with all my yoke adjusting. Someone told me that I should try pushing the yoke to the left (from the back) and maybe that would help.

2. The convergence issues. I honestly didn't think they'd bother me as much as they are. The corners are easy enough to fix with strips once I get the rest of the geometry in place but the horizontal issues, especially at the top and bottom, are troublesome.

3. Top and bottom geometry, at least make it better.


I know you had mentioned those three control dials on my yoke from the service manual, but I don't think they're actually there on my set. Really all I have is the H-STAT and the magnets in the back. The other three V1,2,3 pots on the yoke just seemed to tweak the horizontal size a bit. I really don't want to mess with those unless I know exactly what they are.

I did find a pot on the neck board that will supposedly adjust V.STAT like the rings do. I haven't tested it yet and it's in a really inconvenient place to adjust (I can't watch the screen while I adjust it) but if I get everything else going I might try and see what happens.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Ok I must admit, I'm getting kind of frustrated. I've been playing with the yoke as my free time allows (an hour here, an hour there) but I seem to be going in circles. I can get the grid geometry to a good spot now within minutes, that's not a problem anymore. The problem is the convergence. When I switch to the convergence grid all hell breaks loose. I have either have bad horizontal separation across the top and bottom or I have the corners hooking upward (UPIN does not help this) or I have the red discoloration on the left side of the CRT (this happens when I tilt the yoke too far back I think, its not a magnetization issue). I can't seem to get all three into an acceptable balance. I also can't seem to completely fix the linearity issue on the left side of the screen. I can make it a bit better sometimes, but it's still kind of screwed up. From what I can tell it's the red boarder on the left side that's having the issue, not the last row of white squares (they just loo smaller because the red is severely overlapping them).

I've discovered some movements that can fix certain problems (the red horizontal bleed on the top can be mitigated somewhat by moving the yoke to the right for instance), but I still feel like I'm just blindly moving the yoke around and hoping it will magically find the sweet spot. I'm wondering if part of my problem is that I'm not adjusting the yoke correctly. Currently I have the screw pretty loose and I'm really moving the yoke around until I think it's in a good spot then I slightly shim it and take a better look at the screen and then switch from the grid to the convergence screen (or vice versa). I'm wondering if I shouldn't have the screw tighter (just a half turn or so loose), all the shims in, and try and do little movements instead (maybe sliding the shims in and out to adjust) because not matter how I try I can't quite hold the yoke in the 'perfect position' with one hand and get all the shims in with the other so things are always moving when I attempt this. I'm not being rough or anything, but I'm afraid all this moving things around is going to break the yoke or the neck somehow.

One thing I'm considering doing is putting a piece of paper across the middle of the screen so I can tell when the sides are bowing up. I'm pretty sure that some of my convergence issues are due to the sides bowing upwards. It's not obvious when adjusting, but if you put something straight across the grid you can see it. I'm also considering picking up some magnets to help the geometry but that would be a last ditch effort as I fear I'd do more harm than good with those.
Spoiler
Image
Image
Any words of advice? Suggestions on something I can do differently? I'm not expecting miracles with this set, I just want decent geometry and good convergence over most of the screen.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I think I've discovered my problem. I was shimming the yoke THEN tightening the screw. Someone informed me that the manual says the correct procedure is to tighten the screw THEN shim it. This not only solved my orange discoloration issue, but has allowed me to get some better geometry and convergence. It's still not great, but it's MUCH better than it was. This is where I got after a few minutes of fooling with it. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have more time to devote to it.
Spoiler
Image
Image
One thing I discovered was that after I adjusted the VR1-3 dials on the yoke I thought I put them back in the original spots. Turns out I was way off after I consulted an old picture I took. Setting those back helped fix some of the convergence issues I was having although I need to investigate those a bit more.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by maxtherabbit »

that's about as good as I've ever seen one of those WEGAs look tbh
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

maxtherabbit wrote:that's about as good as I've ever seen one of those WEGAs look tbh
Really? Hmm maybe you're right. I'd like to try using convergence strips to see if I can tweak it further.
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Josh128
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

Yeah, its probably as good as you'll get. You seem to have a bit of a purity issue on the left side, the red looks a bit orange. Either tweaking the purity rings or some strategically placed magnets should be able to help there. You should be able to see the purity issue, if thats what it is, on a full white or red screen.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:Yeah, its probably as good as you'll get. You seem to have a bit of a purity issue on the left side, the red looks a bit orange. Either tweaking the purity rings or some strategically placed magnets should be able to help there. You should be able to see the purity issue, if thats what it is, on a full white or red screen.
Oh that's just the camera. That's not really there.
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