Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[fagin]

Being anal further pin cushion adjustment and trapezoid adjustment. Remember the tube us curved, so you should allow for that in any adjustments. In all honesty you're being concerned about something that doesn't really matter.... Unless you're being anal.

[lunch_box]

I am being a little anal, I am like it with my cabs too
I am unfamiliar with these monitors and wanted to chec if this is fairly normal as there appears to be a difference of 2cm ish on the left hand side. I suppose overscan in games will more than allow for it and it will not be noticeable so much.

On the flip side the pic quality on these things is stunning. My supergun and md look awesome.
Can't test my snes yet as it appears it doesnt like my current scart lead.

One last thing, where will I find trapezoid adjustment??

Thanks

[K-2]

From the Internet mists; a few questions:

I picked up a BVM-20f1u last week, and as luck would have I have a second one on the way So far only my CMVS and ps2 are useable through component, and anything I run through the scart to component converter does not come through, I'm guessing I need a sych stike with the breakout to 4 bnc?

With the Extron Super Emotia and respective vga output cables and breakout 4 bnc, will I be able to play Xbox 360 shmups? Dreamcast also?

What about those custom female scart to 4 bnc cables? Would they be handy?

Apologies if these points have been addressed previously, obviously I'm quite new to rgb monitors and I'm American so the Scart cable is practically witchcraft to my mind, not to mention I'm excited about this thing and anxious to get working with all that it can. Thanks for your attention, love the forum.

[Fudoh]

I picked up a BVM-20f1u last week, and as luck would have I have a second one on the way

welcome to the boards, you lucky bastard

anything I run through the scart to component converter does not come through, I'm guessing I need a sych stike with the breakout to 4 bnc?

you don't even need a Sync strike. RGBs with composite video works just as fine. Use the EXT Sync connector under the standard component port and set the menu for this input to external sync.

With the Extron Super Emotia and respective vga output cables and breakout 4 bnc, will I be able to play Xbox 360 shmups? Dreamcast also?

oh yes! (but from the Emotia to the BVM you use BNC to BNC, the VGA output on the Emotia is just a passthrough output)

What about those custom female scart to 4 bnc cables? Would they be handy?

indeed.

[K-2]

Right well, I must be missing something very basic here because the best I can get is the game to run in a green tint... Let me elaborate on what I'm trying to get this to work with: Sega Saturn outputting through euro scart into one of those $40 scart to component rgb adapters you get off of ebay. From the adapter plugging it into the back of rgb inputs via phono to bnc adapters and leaving the synch empty...
It does the same with my Genesis.

I've set the input configuration to component>RGB and the synch to whatever makes it stop jumping INT or EXT, it's all pretty confusing as I've just used S-video cables for the past 20 years. What am I missing is my wiring, or is there something I still have to change in menu?

Thanks for the helpQ!

[Fudoh]

If you're using a transcoder you have to leave the input on YUV color format and INTernal sync.

euro scart into one of those $40 scart to component rgb adapters you get off of ebay

I'm pretty sure that this is converter, not an adapter.

[K-2]

Yes converter, I don't have anything other than what I listed above at the moment, so no transcoder. When I set it to YUV and Synch to INT I get a fuzzier slightly distorted green tinted picture. before it was a clean tinted picture when set to RGB I'm starting to wonder about finding s- video input boards for this thing; that's not a good thought.

Super emotias and Synch strike are in transit I don't have them yet, I don't know if that changes your answer.

[Fudoh]

Yes converter, I don't have anything other than what I listed above at the moment, so no transcoder. When I set it to YUV and Synch to INT I get a fuzzier slightly distorted green tinted picture.

converter and transcoder are the same thing (in this case). 15khz in, 15khz out. Take it step by step. Connect the Luminance cable only (Y, green one). You should get a stable picture. You can even set the input to composite instead and it should look the same. Take it from there. If everything's fine, add one of the color channels and finally the second one.

If you get a tinted picture with only the Y channel attached, then the converter might be to blame.

[K-2]

If you get a tinted picture with only the Y channel attached, then the converter might be to blame

.

Yeah I think this cheap converter is poison. I plugged the Genesis into a JVC CRT with component input I have lying around and though it did get a steady image rgb image its hue seemed greenish hue and a vertical white border developed on the right edge of the screen and after awhile the strip started to pin its way deeper into the screen. I wondered why my last tate television died so abruptly I think the converter must be the culprit. Needless to say I won't be trying to use this converter any more on my new BVM, I'll wait till better alternatives arrive.

[Fudoh]

Needless to say I won't be trying to use this converter any more on my new BVM, I'll wait till better alternatives arrive.

just get one of those female scart to BNC breakout cables posted here http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=43883

[K-2]

I ordered 2 from daskrabs over on the Neo forum a few days ago lol.

The 2nd BVM is shipping from California to my place In Massachusetts, hopefully it survives the long journey.

[Necronopticous]

I finally got my NES/Famicom games looking beautiful through composite on the 20F1U! I messed with it for a long time trying to figure out why it looked so terrible, and in an attempt to color match, I decided to pull out my 14" PVM and run the composite OUT from my BVM into it, and all of a sudden it just fixed the picture. I tried it all three analog inputs on my composite board and they all had the same behavior. Any idea why that is? Seems as though the board wants an OUT cable hooked up before it will display properly.

[Fudoh]

I might have forgotten to mention this, but you have to put 75 ohm BNC termination resistors on all the outputs you don't use. Those are maybe $2 a piece on ebay. Make sure to get 75 ohm ones and not the 50 ohm ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10-BNC-Typi ... 3363fe45d6

EDIT: Oh, my 4000th posting

[22point8]

I might have forgotten to mention this, but you have to put 75 ohm BNC termination resistors on all the outputs you don't use. Those are maybe $2 a piece on ebay. Make sure to get 75 ohm ones and not the 50 ohm ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10-BNC-Typi ... 3363fe45d6

EDIT: Oh, my 4000th posting

Hi, can you explain why that is? I'd seen mention of 75ohm before in the service manuals to my pvms but the descriptions mean nothing to me. And do you mean if RGB+EXT in are used, then RGB Ext out have to have bnc adapters on? Or all outputs need them? My 2044qm looks great, but my 1454qm looks crap.

2044

1454

[Fudoh]

Those two don't seem to require termination, but the BVM manual explicitely states that you need termination if you don't use the passthrough option.

If you run a monitor with the wrong termination the signal gets deflected in parts and is "mirrored" back into the cable. This can cause ghosting and other issues. Has been like this since the early days of videogaming. That's why you should always use video cables and never audio cables for video.

[Necronopticous]

Fudoh, thanks for the explanation. I realized that my BVM actually came with 75 ohm terminating caps which I removed when I first got it home and cleaned it up. I had absolutely no idea what they were for, so I just put them aside. Working great now!

[grumly54]

I just pick up 2 BVM-2010p but 1 is out, anyone has the service or user manual in pdf please ?

[fagin]

I just pick up 2 BVM-2010p but 1 is out, anyone has the service or user manual in pdf please ?

What do you mean by "1 is out"?. If it's a geometry issue you shouldn't need any manual as the all the adjustments are within the slide out chassis panel.

[grumly54]

A capacitor has burned with lot a smoke

[Necronopticous]

I was making the last few geometry adjustments on my BVM-20F1U last night, using my PVM-14M2U as a guide, and I decided to snap a couple of pictures to compare the display quality of the two:

• PVM-14M2U

• BVM-20F1U

[trap15]

Wow, that BVM really has some scanliney goodness

[kamiboy]

That is funny my 14L2 has the same picture as your BVM. It looks nothing like your PVM picture.

[fagin]

I would also add that my 14" PVM looks as good as my 20" BVM, but my PVM is a 800 line version. The M2U is 600 lines iirc.

[22point8]

PVM 2044QM scanlines (rubbish phone camera)

[Necronopticous]

I forgot to mention, the comparison pictures I took are of Dragon Warrior IV running on my NES through composite in. Of course, the PVM looks much better with a better signal, but the BVM does absolute wonders to the composite signal with its comb and aperture settings.

[Ed Oscuro]

Wow, that BVM works wonders on that composite!

[fagin]

Something worth mentioning about the dreaded PC Engine RGB Mods and these BVM's!

Because the image is that much sharper and defined (assuming your BVM is OK), it's far easier to see any issue you may have with your RGB feed. I have noticed some issues between certain PCE versions and the RGB mod employed, when using on my BVM.

Over recent months I have collected nearly all of different versions of the PCE (I know... I'm sad). I've used the same RGB mod type on all of them and recently converted my DUO-R to RGB with said mod. The main difference between this console and my other PCE's, is that you need to wire (for RGB) direct off the IC. When I checked this mod on one of my Sony CRT TV's it looked fine. When I pulled it back out and used it on my BVM it looked crap, with quite a bit of ghosting. I plugged my SuperGFX in (using the same mod but connecting directly to header for RGB) and the picture was sharp.

Weird.

I then took the DUO-R apart and double chcked everything.... I couldn't find anything wrong.

I then RGB modded my most recent pickup... a white PCE and Super CDROM2 unit. Using the same RGB amp design and wiring off the header, the picture was pin sharp on the BVM.

Logically I can only assume that wiring direct off the onboard IC (for RGB) is causing some issue (slight interference) with the signal to the BVM. The only other thing I can think it being is a grounding issue.... but then I did try another grounding point when I had the DUO-R apart again.

[Ed Oscuro]

Alright, I decided to look into taking the plunge before these things become impossible to find - so a few quick questions:

What's the deal with the units using a different naming scheme, like BVM-1916 (16 inch unit)? (I assume the PVM 2044 QM is somewhat like this.)

What is the weight and going price for a BVM-20F1U? What kind of hours in operation are you guys seeing on your units?

I was thinking about a BVM-14F1U but after Necronopticous' screenshot I guess I had better not. There is also a PVM 14N5U for $50 within the state, but not sure if it'd be a good idea.

Any general opinions on PVM versus BVM? That PVM 2044QM looks very nice too. Has "medical monitor" made any difference (i.e. something like PVM-20L2MD)?

Too many darn models...

[Fudoh]

What is the weight and going price for a BVM-20F1U? What kind of hours in operation are you guys seeing on your units?

37kg (82 lbs) without the control unit. $150 to $250 depending on condition and included control unit. Operating hours: I think we've seen anything from 10,000 to 100,000+ hours here. I wouldn't care so much about the hours. Checking for the manufacturing date might be wiser. The 20F1 was probably sold from 1997 to 2003.

[NWrain]

I have a BVM-20E1U and a PVM-20M2MDU. I personally think the BVM is better. Of course my BVM is 1000 lines vs 600 of the PVM. You get more setup options with the BVM options. My BVM with 65,000 hours has way better geometry than my supposedly brand new PVM.

When I purchased my BVM, the shipping weight was 107 pounds boxed.