Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

SuperSpongo wrote:Very nice results!

When I took geometry shots with my Galaxy S7 I swear they also looked wonkier than the actual picture shown by the tube. I think that the camera added some distortion.
Tempest_2084 wrote:
ASDR wrote:Ok, quick update!
Amazing results! I think you mentioned it before, but what was your process for doing this? I current have my grid in an 'okish' state (it needs some adjustments to the sides and the bow on the top and bottom) but I need to figure out how I want to proceed from here and not screw up what I've already done. I still have some minor horizontal convergence issues in the lower right area.
Ok, this is a bit of a tricky subject. First, this is a PITA. It's madness. I've redone the magnets 3x from scratch on this set and done over the service menu settings like 5x. Sometimes it's all about the order in which you apply things. It's like playing a game of Tetris where you line things up for one tall block, just here you try to arrange things in a way where in the end you correct all four corners in one move with a pincushion adjustment. But my results are still actually quite 'terrible'. The pictures I posted look pretty good, right? But look at this:

Image

Looks immediately worse, right? But it's the exact same picture, just rotated! The bowing at the top, was a tradeoff for correcting the corner sag with two magnets. Rotated again 180deg to show what would normally be the left side:

Image

This wavy line appeared as a result of the magnets on the other side of the screen.

It's all about your perception, which is why sometimes it looks perfect in person but then you take three steps back or take a pic on your phone and suddenly it looks bad. And it's so content dependent. For instance a single line that's bend will immediately look crooked to you. But if you put it with five other lines that are also bent, they'll look straight to you as they're straight relative to each other. That's why it's useful to switch between a fine and a coarse grid.

Another example. When you calibrate a display you'll have a strong desire to get the corners and screen borders absolutely perfect. That's because the edge of the screen is a natural ruler that'll perfectly show you any deformation or crookedness. The issue is that by doing that you'll make the edges perfect at the expense of everything else. You'll adjust the corner pin or move a magnet around just looking at the edge not even noticing you're kinda warping anything near the edge but not quite on it. For instance, I adjusted this TV again with this in mind getting these results:

Image

You'll see the top-left and bottom-left corners are kinda crooked at the very edge, but everything else is way more straight! And who cares about the last millimeter in the corner, you'll likely never notice that when playing a game but you'll definitively notice less warping from a more uniform screen overall. Plus the picture needs to be shifted left one notch anyway and then those little artifacts won't even be visible.

It just takes a lot of time, especially on a flat screen. Curved ones are just so much more trouble free. Not sure if it's just the technical simplicity or maybe the screen curve hides certain issues. For instance, this is a Sony C5:

Image

Looks way straighter than the TV above ever will. Only thing wrong in the picture is a slight rotation because I calibrated the set EW but photographed it NS. Required zero heroics with magnets or hours of service menu tweaking. 10min rotating yoke, 10min service menu, done. Curved screen = easy life.
Tempest_2084 wrote:
ASDR wrote: I'm always yelling about them! :-) And the service manual! It should tell you what these do, probably TLV, YCH and HTRAP (there's a picture explaining what these are in basically every service manual)..
I think I did see references to that in the manual but the picture wasn't where they are on my set (it's the correct manual though) so I thought maybe that wasn't what they were. I can look again though.

So these ARE things I should mess with to fix my convergence issues? Still not 100% sure what they adjust, the manual is a bit confusing:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69674 ... =14#manual
You even have an adjustable Y magnet and HTRAP adjustment, fancy. The funny thing is, you probably need all that stuff, large FD Trinitrons are a lot of work to get nice. These are going to be the main dynamic convergence tweaks you can do on your yoke:

Image
Image

I think it should be pretty clear from the pictures how they move the beams around. If not, just move them and see what happens. Like screen and focus, it shouldn't be difficult to get things in a good spot, it's not a nightmare than those 5-8 rings you got.
Tempest_2084 wrote:What's causing the yellowish color distortion on the left side of the screen? I can't seem to get that fixed. Do I need to remove the wedge start over again? Also, as you can see I'm having some linearity problems on the sides, should I bother with that right now or try and get the color issue taken care of?

My gut says that I need to take the wedge out and pull the whole yoke closer to the front. I think that's generally what causes these kinds of issues. However it seems like no matter what I do it looks like it goes away but when I put a wedge in to keep the yoke in position the yellowish color is back by the time I go around front. It's not magnetization (at least I don't think) as I can move it around if I really play with the yoke, but oddly enough it is current right near where the speaker is. My only other idea is that it could have something to do with that coil that goes around the yoke for adjusting the tilt, but that thing is super heavy shielded and I think any changes I saw while wiggling it were because I was wiggling the yoke unintentionally.

What should my next steps be?
Spoiler
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I'd say your yoke/spacers are still not in the right spot. Also don't do the walk-around-the-TV thing. Put a mirror in front of the TV so you can see what you're doing. The TV's speakers and the rotation coil are not the source of your purity issues. Get the yoke right, then continue with other stuff.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: I'd say your yoke/spacers are still not in the right spot. Also don't do the walk-around-the-TV thing. Put a mirror in front of the TV so you can see what you're doing. The TV's speakers and the rotation coil are not the source of your purity issues. Get the yoke right, then continue with other stuff.
The spacers aren't in there at all except for one to just barely hold it.

Should I tighten the clamp screw most of the way and then adjust it or loosen it up a bunch then adjust it? Do you think that the yoke needs to be pulled forward more?
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vol.2
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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ASDR wrote: Ok, this is a bit of a tricky subject. First, this is a PITA. It's madness.
could very well have some caps that have gone bad or are out of value enough to hurt the geometry. if you're going to put yourself through all of this trouble, i would probably scour the service manual and make a list of the caps which might have an impact on things.

if it was me, i might actually just replace them all because the amount of time it would take me to test everything is more valuable than the cost of the caps anyway.

not guaranteed to help, but there's a chance it will and it eliminate that as a possible issue.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

vol.2 wrote:
ASDR wrote: Ok, this is a bit of a tricky subject. First, this is a PITA. It's madness.
could very well have some caps that have gone bad or are out of value enough to hurt the geometry. if you're going to put yourself through all of this trouble, i would probably scour the service manual and make a list of the caps which might have an impact on things.

if it was me, i might actually just replace them all because the amount of time it would take me to test everything is more valuable than the cost of the caps anyway.

not guaranteed to help, but there's a chance it will and it eliminate that as a possible issue.
Recapping is out of the question unless I can find someone local to me (SE Michigan) who is for hire. Hell I'd gladly pay someone to fix this stupid set me...

I did take a quick look at the caps and I don't see any obviously bad ones (no bulging) but that doesn't mean anything of course.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

No matter what I do I just can't seem to get rid of that yellowish discoloration. I can make it move a bit, tone it down a bit, but it's still there. Which way would I have to move the yoke to fix that? I feel like I'm missing something here.

I *think* I have the spacers back where they originally were based on my picture I took of the yoke. I can only find two though and I swear there were three, but I honestly can't remember.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

You have to have at least 3 to stabilize and lock down the yoke position.
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Tempest_2084
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:You have to have at least 3 to stabilize and lock down the yoke position.
I found it. It's at the very bottom center. Not sure if it slipped there or if it was always there. Should I remove it and try repositioning? Maybe there were four wedges and I still lost one? From my pictures I see there was one originally at the top and on the center left. Not sure if the bottom one was always there but I'm seeing nothing on the right. I'm going to assume there were four originally. Should I try and improvise one?

EDIT: I think the one on the bottom is still glued on so it was always there. Maybe there were only three all along? How many are there normally?

Still wish I could figure out this yellow discoloration thing. Then I could get to fine tuning everything. Even in its rough state it's looking pretty good, I'm actually surprised since I haven't messed with anything but the yoke yet.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Well holy crap, I think I did it. I pushed the yoke hard forward with the screw really loose then screwed it down tight. I have the wedges in now and the color seems to be holding. It's not perfect yet, but it's serviceable. It actually looks better than it did before I started messing with things so there's that. Here's where I'm at right now (the red on the sides isn't as yellowish as it appears in this picture, it's a trick of the light):
Spoiler
Image
Image
What should I do now? There's some upward bowing in the center that I'd like to fix before I start with the convergence. I believe this is a left tilt move, but I'm not sure. At this point I'm almost afraid to touch anything. I think to fix the bowing I'll have to loosen the screw and if I do that I'm afraid I'll have that discoloration issue again.

Current mood:

Image
Last edited by Tempest_2084 on Thu Oct 14, 2021 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
tongshadow
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by tongshadow »

Tilt it up to fix downwards bowing and viceversa.
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ASDR
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by ASDR »

vol.2 wrote:
ASDR wrote: Ok, this is a bit of a tricky subject. First, this is a PITA. It's madness.
could very well have some caps that have gone bad or are out of value enough to hurt the geometry. if you're going to put yourself through all of this trouble, i would probably scour the service manual and make a list of the caps which might have an impact on things.

if it was me, i might actually just replace them all because the amount of time it would take me to test everything is more valuable than the cost of the caps anyway.

not guaranteed to help, but there's a chance it will and it eliminate that as a possible issue.
Oh yeah, absolutely, great point. I'd also just replace all caps in the power supply and deflection section. I haven't considered it on this set yet cause it's relatively new and has only ~3k hours on it. But who knows.

This set is just a backup TV. I have another FX30 as my main one on my original hardware rack and picked this one up for free a while ago. I just wanted to get it into nice enough shape that I can put it to use if I ever need/want to. I'm quite happy with the results.
tongshadow wrote:Tilt it up to fix downwards bowing and viceversa.
I think on his set the first two set of rings (in front of the normal six) can also be used to adjust this kind of bowing.


btw, can't even watch movies without being haunted by bad geo:

Image

Somebody recap that screen ASAP!
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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btw, question for the yoke-messing experts!

I always find tightening the yoke clamp screw nerve wracking since the tube neck is so fragile. Is there any idiot proof method for getting it right? Do you always just do it by feel or is there any more scientific way of making sure you don't over tighten and break anything?

Thanks!
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: I think on his set the first two set of rings (in front of the normal six) can also be used to adjust this kind of bowing.
There are four sets of rings. Three in the front and a separate set further back. I haven't been able to do anything with the rings because they're seriously epoxyed in place and even after removing all that I could they don't want to move. I'm afraid to force anything because I don't want to break the neck (and I already tried a decent amount of force) so I don't think adjusting the rings is going to be possible. It looks like I'm going to have to adjust the yoke again. Hopefully if I only loosen the screw a little I wont have the discoloration problem.

Once I get the geometry in a decent place is there a way to fix convergence issues that are only in one area of the screen? Say if the convergence on the right side of the screen is way worse than the left or if there's a part of the lower screen that has a horizontal convergence issue that isn't there on the rest of the screen? All the convergence adjusts seem to affect the whole screen, which makes sense but isn't going to help some of my issues. I know magnet strips can fix the corners but I think for specific areas on the rest of the screen I have to just find a happy medium with the full screen adjusts.
ASDR wrote: I always find tightening the yoke clamp screw nerve wracking since the tube neck is so fragile. Is there any idiot proof method for getting it right? Do you always just do it by feel or is there any more scientific way of making sure you don't over tighten and break anything?!
I honestly just do it by feel. Once the screw stops turning easily and I start getting resistance I leave it. Maybe if I'm not going to mess with it again I give it one little turn after that but that's it.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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Tempest_2084 wrote: Once I get the geometry in a decent place is there a way to fix convergence issues that are only in one area of the screen?
Image

Seriously, BVMs or quality PC CRTs have plenty of adjustments for that, Trinitron TVs have basically static & dynamic convergence and magnets/yoke strips, that's generally it :/



btw, I made a separate post about the horizontal wobble so many Trinitron TVs seem to have. Any feedback much appreciated.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69191
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: btw, I made a separate post about the horizontal wobble so many Trinitron TVs seem to have. Any feedback much appreciated.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69191
I'll have to check but I don't think I've noticed that on mine.

So when you say magnets do you mean the little convergence strips or actual magnets?
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

Tempest, looking at your latest grid photo and let me offer you some advice: STOP. Convergence looks (to me at least) much better than the initial photos you posted and geo is not bad at all. If anything, you can try the H-STAT pot very lightly to maybe help with the blues and reds slightly on either side of vertical lines in the center, if you can find a balance that doesnt throw something else off. The slight bowing on the top is not worth chasing, IMO. Strips or magnets may be able to help there but will almost certainly fuck with the convergence in that area, which appears pretty damned on point. For simply adjusting the DY without touching anything else, I think you have done a fantastic job here.


You may want to keep going until you have the geo and conv of a digital display, but you never, ever will. Unless you are seeing something in person that your pictures just dont show, its time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. 8)
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:Tempest, looking at your latest grid photo and let me offer you some advice: STOP. Convergence looks (to me at least) much better than the initial photos you posted and geo is not bad at all. If anything, you can try the H-STAT pot very lightly to maybe help with the blues and reds slightly on either side of vertical lines in the center, if you can find a balance that doesnt throw something else off. The slight bowing on the top is not worth chasing, IMO. Strips or magnets may be able to help there but will almost certainly fuck with the convergence in that area, which appears pretty damned on point. For simply adjusting the DY without touching anything else, I think you have done a fantastic job here.
You might be right. I'm amazed at how much better it looks and I haven't even touched the service menu yet to tweak the geometry.

Here's where things stand now
Spoiler
Image
Image
As you can see (especially in the second picture) there's some serious curving going on at the very top of the screen I'd like to fix, is there something in the service menu that can do that? I also might try a convergence strip in the lower right to fix that corner up a bit (my quick tests seemed to indicate this would help). Beyond that there's the general sag in the middle and some other convergence issues (lower horizontal white line is turning blue and magenta in spots). Any advice on what to tweak for that?
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote:
btw, can't even watch movies without being haunted by bad geo:

Somebody recap that screen ASAP!
Ugh, what movie is that from?
Last edited by Tempest_2084 on Fri Oct 15, 2021 5:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

There should be an SM entry for the top that you are seeing. I think its UPIN. See the link below, not all Sonys have the same options but as a general description for each entry this link is pretty good.

https://www.neo-geo.com/forums/index.ph ... ns.235099/
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:There should be an SM entry for the top that you are seeing. I think its UPIN. See the link below, not all Sonys have the same options but as a general description for each entry this link is pretty good.

https://www.neo-geo.com/forums/index.ph ... ns.235099/
I'll take a look at that. Thanks.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

So are the rings all the way in the back that are separate from the other three sets of rings for adjusting the bowing? I thinking about giving those a shot (if I can free them) just to see what happens. I have them marked so I can get them back to where they were if things go wrong. Also would I move them together around the tube or move them apart/closer?
Spoiler
Image
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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The 3 sets are probably convergence rings and the two separate are probably the purity rings. Neither will do anything for geometry / bowing. When you adjust them, how close they are together determines the intensity of the effect when you rotate the pair together. Did you find the H-STAT pot yet?
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

Josh128 wrote:The 3 sets are probably convergence rings and the two separate are probably the purity rings. Neither will do anything for geometry / bowing. When you adjust them, how close they are together determines the intensity of the effect when you rotate the pair together. Did you find the H-STAT pot yet?
I'm pretty sure the purity rings are the ones closest to the tube if my experience with other monitors is any indication. Those all had the three sets of rings but this TV has an extra set way in the back.

Yes I've played with the H-Stat pot and corrected the 'red bleed' a bit (at the expense of some blue bleed but that isn't nearly as noticeable in games). I might play with the three pots on the yoke to see if those can help some of the convergence issues. Those are harmless enough as I have the current positions marked so I can go back if I screw something up.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I decided to try something less risky than adjusting the yoke freehand again so I loosened the clamp ever so slightly and pushed the top yoke spacer down a little (not very much) and that seemed to help. It's not a dramatic improvement, but it is better.
Spoiler
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And one from the SNES 240p suite (not sure if the grid differs but I swear it looks better on the SNES)
Spoiler
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I suppose it could stand to be pushed a smidgen more to fix the bottom better, but at this point I think it's not worth the risk. I'm going to play with the service menu adjusts to see if I can fix the remaining geometry, then play with the H-Stat and maybe those pots on the yoke to adjust the convergence the best I can, but I think I'm done with the yoke. I did try one of those convergence strips I had on the lower right corner, but I couldn't fix the red convergence issue there. I think I'll try again after I do my other adjusts, just to see if I an tighten it up. I figure as long as the yoke it clamped down tight playing with strips can't really harm anything.

One thing I noticed was that the text on the SNES version of the 240p suite has a weird 'smudge' to it. Is this something inherent with the SNES 240p suite or do I need to play with the focus or something? Ignore the distortions on the gray background, the camera does that...
Spoiler
Image
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by maxtherabbit »

that's just the 3-chip SNES video output
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

maxtherabbit wrote:that's just the 3-chip SNES video output
Ah ok. I guess that's good news... :|
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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Josh128 wrote:The 3 sets are probably convergence rings and the two separate are probably the purity rings. Neither will do anything for geometry / bowing. When you adjust them, how close they are together determines the intensity of the effect when you rotate the pair together. Did you find the H-STAT pot yet?
No, they should do exactly what you're saying they don't:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otwPa-nhcTg

:-)


btw, nobody else wanting to comment on the yoke clamp screw thing I asked? I'm really curious how y'all decide how tightly to tighten that clamp around the fragile neck without breaking anything.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

ASDR wrote: btw, nobody else wanting to comment on the yoke clamp screw thing I asked? I'm really curious how y'all decide how tightly to tighten that clamp around the fragile neck without breaking anything.
Unless you're constantly loosening and tightening it over and over again or severely over tightening I can't see it being a problem. Like I said, I just tighten the screw until I hit a little resistance then give it a half turn more.
ASDR wrote:
No, they should do exactly what you're saying they don't:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otwPa-nhcTg
Wow! I need to try this as I still have a little bend in mine. I have the current position marked so it can't hurt I suppose. That is assuming I can get them moving at all. You want to talk about fear of breaking the neck, putting any kind of force on these rings is what scares me.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

So how would one go about fixing the bowing on the right side? Using magnet strips I think I can bring the top and the bottom in so it lines up with the middle, but I can't go the opposite way. This also fixes the upward 'hook' on the squares in the upper right. Is this the correct way to do this? The bottom right needs it for sure. I can't be 100% sure I can get it all lined up until I start sticking down strips as this is going to require multiple ones.

Speaking of which, when you're using multiple strips do you tape them down (the ones I got from ebay appear to have little adhesive tabs on them) then move onto the next one or do you use something to temporarily stick them down then go back when you've placed them all and permanently stick them down? I don't know how strong the sticky pad is on these and I'm going to guess as I put multiple strips in I'm going to have to do some rearranging.
Spoiler
Image
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Tempest_2084 »

I took and chance and started playing with the strips. I positioned one in the lower right corner to fix the terrible convergence there and it worked.

Here are some pictures. The grid one really doesn't show how badly the top half pulls to the right I'm afraid, but it is very noticeable. The second is a picture of the convergence grid which if you look at the previous one I posted is way better (although there are tons of convergence issues still to fix). The first is the grid from the Genesis, the second is the grid from the SNES, and the third is the convergence pattern from the Genesis.
Spoiler
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So as it stands now I have a few problems that I'd like to fix before closing this set up.

1. There's a blue shadow on the lower left side that I can't seem to fix with strips for some reason.
2. The top horizontal line has some convergence issues that go all the way across. I don't know if one of the pots on the yoke would fix this or not but I'm afraid of mucking up the convergence elsewhere.
3. The top boxes on the edges have a 'hook' on them that I can't seem to fix
4. The column of boxes second from the left side seem to be smaller than the ones near it. Is this something that's fixable? I think it's called linearity but all the controls on the SM are for vertical linearity.
5. Not sure if this is related to #4 or if it's just the uneven top, but while testing Metroid on my NES I noticed that the blocks across the top 'warped' a bit as I moved them off the screen to the left. If this is due to the crappy and uneven top line geometry would shrinking the horizontal size a bit fix that or just move the distortion further down the screen? I honestly wouldn't mind losing a quarter of an inch off each side if it fixed that distortion.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Josh128 »

For the top, did you try the UPIN adjustment?

For the side compression, use the horizontal S-Correction adjustment. SCOR maybe?
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