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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 3:41 am 


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Joined: 05 Mar 2018
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RottenToTheGore wrote:
I know a 470 ohm resistor on the sync line is recommended to attenuate TTL Sync going into the OSSC, but I feel like I read somewhere a 330 ohm was used and the result was still a voltage in the 75ohm range.

Can anyone confirm? I seem to only have 330s around at the moment.

330 is fine


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 7:56 am 


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Any US PSOne power brick alternatives? It takes up 3 plugs on my surge protector even on a spaced out spot meant for large adapters, since the plug isn't close enough to the top of the brick. No other adapter takes up as much space as it does.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 9:32 am 



Joined: 31 Jan 2018
Posts: 33
Would you exchange a PVM 1954+100$ for a recapped 2530+flying case?
I've a 20M2 and an L2 already.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:39 pm 


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pedroTFP wrote:
Would you exchange a PVM 1954+100$ for a recapped 2530+flying case?
I've a 20M2 and an L2 already.


Assuming you have interest in a 25" screen that's a pretty good trade. A 600 TVL 20" is about equivalent in value these days. I'd say the 20" is more desirable, but the 2530 already being serviced is a big plus. Since you already have two other good 20" screens, I'd do that trade in your position.

Recapped doesn't always mean much with a 2530 though. How's the geometry and convergence? If the person who recapped it also dialed in the rings on the neck and/or placed convergence strips to fix the corner problems I always see on that model then you'd be crazy to pass on it. If it didn't need that much attention then all the more reason to do the trade.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 1:41 pm 


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Gara wrote:

Recapped doesn't always mean much with a 2530 though.


Not to mention, it's an older set, and the tube is really what you should be concerned about. You can replace caps till the end of time, but if you're tube is worn then it's all over.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 1:51 pm 



Joined: 31 Jan 2018
Posts: 33
Thanks, I'll look at it and let you known! Assuming it is good condition, my concerns were about 2530's lower TVL count and that the set would look too much like a consumer 25" RGB Trinitron set from mid 90's, hence not worth the trade.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 2:03 pm 


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pedroTFP wrote:
Thanks, I'll look at it and let you known! Assuming it is good condition, my concerns were about 2530's lower TVL count and that the set would look too much like a consumer 25" RGB Trinitron set from mid 90's, hence not worth the trade.


Pay attention to how bright the set is mostly. Try to turn up the contrast (the contrast knob is the brightness on a CRT) and see how much range it has. It should have plenty of upward headroom, and it shouldn't seem excessively blown-out at higher contrast levels. There will always be some bloom, but there's a difference between a strong tube and a weak one in that regard. Also, look at how focused the tube is. That's adjustable, but there's going to be a limit to how much you can improve it.


Last edited by vol.2 on Fri Feb 26, 2021 7:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 2:08 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Location: Maryland
bobrocks95 wrote:
Any US PSOne power brick alternatives? It takes up 3 plugs on my surge protector even on a spaced out spot meant for large adapters, since the plug isn't close enough to the top of the brick. No other adapter takes up as much space as it does.


When it comes to things like power bricks, I use these


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 2:53 pm 



Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Posts: 83
I have a Sony (consumer grade) CRT that has only composite/SVID inputs. I would like to use my Super NT/Mega SG on it but I'm not sure what the best solution is. Obviously I need to go from HDMI to SVID/composite so I will need some sort of DAC to downscale the output to be compatible.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 3:04 pm 


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There's no cheap way to do it right. Analogue's own DAC would probably be the best way, since it actually enables true 240p output from these systems already and the DAC provides an s-video signal, which can be utilized using the right cables.

If you don't have their DAC, would need a downscaling solution (e.g. HDMI to YUV and then into a GBC-C unit). Then you'd have 240p component, which you'd need to turn into s-video on your own. The added cost of all required items would easily add up to the same what Analogue's DAC costs.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 6:41 pm 


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RottenToTheGore wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
Any US PSOne power brick alternatives? It takes up 3 plugs on my surge protector even on a spaced out spot meant for large adapters, since the plug isn't close enough to the top of the brick. No other adapter takes up as much space as it does.


When it comes to things like power bricks, I use these


Oh, duh, that'll do just fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 7:29 pm 


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RottenToTheGore wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
Any US PSOne power brick alternatives? It takes up 3 plugs on my surge protector even on a spaced out spot meant for large adapters, since the plug isn't close enough to the top of the brick. No other adapter takes up as much space as it does.


When it comes to things like power bricks, I use these


4 pack FTW. Would be useful for my printer power supply. If you're in the market for a new surge protector, Tripp Lite makes some with extra wide spacing between inputs.

I found this thread that says you can use PS2 70000 series slim power supply for PS1. Sony got smarter and didn't have the brick on top of the connector. Guessing PlayStation has a voltage regulator on the input so feeding 8-9V doesn't matter.

pedroTFP wrote:
Would you exchange a PVM 1954+100$ for a recapped 2530+flying case?
I've a 20M2 and an L2 already.


I like the advice you got. Also keep in mind the 2030 and 2530 use the weird DB25 connector for RGB. I see Retro Gaming Cables sells a SCART to DB25 adapter for £21 total ($29) to ship to me in the US.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 8:02 pm 


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GojiFan90 wrote:
I have a Sony (consumer grade) CRT that has only composite/SVID inputs. I would like to use my Super NT/Mega SG on it but I'm not sure what the best solution is. Obviously I need to go from HDMI to SVID/composite so I will need some sort of DAC to downscale the output to be compatible.


Portta HDMI to VGA + linuxbot3000 VGA to Svid/composite (eBay seller) or this:

https://www.antoniovillena.es/store/pro ... o-adapter/

And be sure to get the NON-scaling Portta / set the output of your console to 240p! The Portta passes 240p no problem. The non-scaling one is black with blue and white text

linuxbot3000 may be out of stock right now but you can probably see the unit I speak of on his sold listings/can message asking when it’s back in stock
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 8:32 pm 


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Location: Germany
Quote:
And be sure to get the NON-scaling Portta / set the output of your console to 240p! The Portta passes 240p no problem.

unfortunately the Super NT and Mega SG cannot be set to 240p output without connecting the original Analogue DAC.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 8:54 pm 


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Fudoh wrote:
Quote:
And be sure to get the NON-scaling Portta / set the output of your console to 240p! The Portta passes 240p no problem.

unfortunately the Super NT and Mega SG cannot be set to 240p output without connecting the original Analogue DAC.


Mannnn, I dislike Analogue more and more! Their DAC is such BS - I would change my tune if it wasn’t locked to only work with their products...
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 4:39 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Location: Maryland
Anyone use an Extron RGB such as the 201? Wanted to confirm if the buffered monitor input just passes whatever you throw at it through the corresponding BNC outputs.

That way I can send RGB/VGA through the input, and component through buffered monitor.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 4:54 pm 



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 1947
RottenToTheGore wrote:
Anyone use an Extron RGB such as the 201? Wanted to confirm if the buffered monitor input just passes whatever you throw at it through the corresponding BNC outputs.

That way I can send RGB/VGA through the input, and component through buffered monitor.

If it's what I think it is, the monitor output is just a passthrough of the input; it's not processed in any way--only the BNC connectors output the processed signal; so, if you input RGBHV and have the interface set to output RGsB, the monitor output will provide the original RGBHV, while the BNC outputs will provide RGsB.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 5:00 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 95
Location: Maryland
nmalinoski wrote:
RottenToTheGore wrote:
Anyone use an Extron RGB such as the 201? Wanted to confirm if the buffered monitor input just passes whatever you throw at it through the corresponding BNC outputs.

That way I can send RGB/VGA through the input, and component through buffered monitor.

If it's what I think it is, the monitor output is just a passthrough of the input; it's not processed in any way--only the BNC connectors output the processed signal; so, if you input RGBHV and have the interface set to output RGsB, the monitor output will provide the original RGBHV, while the BNC outputs will provide RGsB.


Derp, for some reason I was thinking it was an input and not an output. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 1:50 pm 


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I have one of those LG Oled panels, the C9, that only goes into 4:4:4 mode if you set an input to PC mode. It doesn't matter what you name the input but it has to have the PC icon on the home dashboard, I've verified this with the 4:4:4 test pattern.

With PS5, Xbox One X and PC all supporting VRR in their latest incarnations, I don't have enough HDMI ports spare on the telly to have a separate input for blu ray and for PC/Console games, so would leaving the panel in 4:4:4 mode cause any issues with content in 4:2:0 like blu ray?
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OSSC Forums - http://www.videogameperfection.com/forums
Please check the XRGB Wiki before posting about the OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2021 6:30 pm 



Joined: 21 Jul 2014
Posts: 88
Location: UK
@BuckoA51

Are you using a console to play blu rays or do you have a separate player?

I have a similar situation with an LG CX. The problem with using PC mode for blu rays is the TV disables the “real cinema” setting which is needed to get proper 24fps playback.

I settled for leaving the PS5 input on the standard game mode as it’s a better blu ray player than the Xbox. I believe 4:4:4 isn’t really essential for console games anyway and the PS5 currently doesn’t have the HDMI bandwidth to even use it at 4k120fps.

Edit to add: no VRR yet on the PS5 but apparently it’s coming in an update.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:34 am 


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Quote:
Are you using a console to play blu rays or do you have a separate player?


I have a dedicated player hooked through my surround sound, but also through the surround sound go my Switch and retro consoles via OSSC.

Might have known there was some caveat like that lol. Ok I'll just change the icon for now when I watch a movie and keep an eye out for an actual 4k120hz capable switch.
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Please check the XRGB Wiki before posting about the OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 3:11 am 


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Posts: 115
Location: Atlanta, GA
I have the reputable Datapath E1S capture card with DVI-I input. Issue is, I can't connect to it inside this cheap ThinkCentre computer because the metal gate isn't wide enough for the border around DVI plugs. It's so stupid! https://imgur.com/a/XAwtP4v

Even if I remove the desktop cover and adjacent sound card and try to plug into the side, there isn't enough room to turn the plug 90° and connect.
What should I do? Willing to cut off the metal border between the slots but not sure what tool to use. $10 bolt cutter? I have a modern computer but it only has 1 card slot for my graphics card and no integrated graphics.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 2:07 am 



Joined: 14 Feb 2021
Posts: 10
Is there a video signal detector which will show on the LED display what signal is currently going on the wire: 240p or 480i or 480p, NTSC or PAL, sync type.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 3:47 am 



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 1947
nolepe wrote:
Is there a video signal detector which will show on the LED display what signal is currently going on the wire: 240p or 480i or 480p, NTSC or PAL, sync type.

OSSC does most of this, though, if you want it as passthrough, you'd probably need to get a distribution amp for whichever format you're using to split the signal between your display and the OSSC.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 1:11 pm 


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NewSchoolBoxer wrote:
What should I do? Willing to cut off the metal border between the slots but not sure what tool to use. $10 bolt cutter? I have a modern computer but it only has 1 card slot for my graphics card and no integrated graphics.


I would probably just use a pair of flush cutters (I have a cheap, beaten up old pair I use for jobs like this). Just make a little snip at each side and bend the metal until it snaps off, then maybe file the edge a little bit to get rid of any sharp spots. You could also use a rotary tool, or probably the bolt cutter if you have it. The metal is not strong so pretty much anything you use will likely work.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2021 10:34 pm 



Joined: 15 Oct 2017
Posts: 243
.


Last edited by ross on Wed Mar 17, 2021 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 9:12 am 


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Posts: 229
Location: Northern California
BuckoA51 wrote:
I have one of those LG Oled panels, the C9, that only goes into 4:4:4 mode if you set an input to PC mode. It doesn't matter what you name the input but it has to have the PC icon on the home dashboard, I've verified this with the 4:4:4 test pattern.

With PS5, Xbox One X and PC all supporting VRR in their latest incarnations, I don't have enough HDMI ports spare on the telly to have a separate input for blu ray and for PC/Console games, so would leaving the panel in 4:4:4 mode cause any issues with content in 4:2:0 like blu ray?


It's a real problem! I was hoping the 2020 Denon receivers would fix my own problems with a full set of 8 HDMI 2.1 ports. Instead they only put a single 2.1 port on even the high end equipment. I'm hoping 2021 will be better, but I get the feeling that dealing with HDMI 2.1 will continue to be problematic. I miss being able to have an entire port on the TV dedicated to PC Mode.

You'd think they would use the fancy automatic detection tech in the LG TV's to allow for automatic switching to PC mode.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 12:56 pm 


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I have an old tv/tube which doesn't seem to have any horizontal width option under the service menu (only phase/shifting), as well as not having a width coil (which is more common in arcade monitors) on the board. I want to make it a bit narrower.

Question:

Where in the circuit I should look to ? It's an infamous samsung gxe1395 by the way. I RGB modded it but I really wish I could make the screen a tad less wide on the sides.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 3:23 pm 


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Location: bmore
benthrottle wrote:

Where in the circuit I should look to ?


It would be in the Horizontal deflection circuitry. Each TV is going to be different and the implementing a new HSIZE control would take understanding the circuit very well. (beyond my skill)
Also, the HOT area is dangerous, so it's not something you should make random changes to without fully knowing what the effect will be. The HOT is directly coupled to the flyback as part of the generation of HV for the anode. So you don't want to be taking stabs in the dark around there.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 3:28 pm 


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Posts: 1230
This weekend I discovered that one of the HDMI ports on my plasma has color saturation errors on a few shades. That means I'm now in the market for an HDMI switcher.

Rather than just getting a *.amazon one that I'd ask here for recommendations.


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