shmups.system11.org

I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but anything external is going to be a simple YPbPr to HDMI converter, possibly with 1080p upscaling, so it's probably not going to look all that good. There are already cheap, abundant Wii2HDMI converters on the market; if there's a new one, I imagine it would be more of the same.

I'm confused by the "mod" description. It's external, but it's a "mod?"

Is it worth recapping my 2010 Red Wii? I'm getting my 2010 Red Wii modded with the WiiDual for $90 by Dragon's Hoard Gaming, and he offers an additional service that replaces all of the Wii's electrolytic capacitors with high quality ones from Console5.com, along with a complete disassembly to thoroughly clean with IPA, grease the drives, re-solder ports and connections to ensure "proper connections" and apply UV coating all for $100. Is that a good deal?

https://dragonshoardgaming.com/info/WiiDual

I guess I must've been mistaken. I saw a post on Reddit mention a new external method for 1080p upscaling outside of WiiDigital. No name or anything was mentioned so I was curious if anyone here had heard of something similar. I'm aware of the Aliexpress and Hyperkin options, but this seemed to infer a product different from those.

By 2010, the process technology for caps had come so far that premature failure became practically non-existent. If it was going to fail, something would have most likely gone wrong already. You see a lot of recapping going on with 80's and 90's consoles because there were some "bad batches" of caps that circulated through the consumer electronics industry at various times.
The 90's devices in particular are prone to failure because of a case of industrial espionage in which one of the big component companies tried to steal the "recipe" for making surface mount elec caps and either missed one of the steps or was purposefully fed misinformation. I can't remember the details, but it's something like that.

The actual chances of your red wii that you know to be in good working order having iffy caps is *extremely* low, and not so much different from the chances of the new caps going bad. So I would say "nah," but that's my 2 cents.

All the other stuff (aside from the UV coating and lubing the drive) seems like stuff that should be wrapped into the price of the mod, and it was probably taken out to make the "cap package" look like a better idea, so it kind of rubs me the wrong way.

Hello,
A question about a sega saturn cable. I bought two mini-din to build a diy cable. The first one is mini-din to bnc to connect directly to my bvm, but since recently i am using an extron vga switcher, so i want to make a new cable to have mini-din to vga.
In retro-access they say this about their saturn cable :


Is it really necessary ? I don't use any caps and resistor in my bnc cable and it is working fine, no sync problem...

both the extron and the PVM are made to accept TTL sync, so an attenuating resistor is not needed

the coupling capacitor is recommended to help with some saturn model 2s that struggle to drive dc-coupled sync properly, but if you don't have a problem you don't need it

Hello,
I recently changed my WiiDual install to send CSYNC to Data Pin 15. It was previously sent to Composite Video, and the three SMD components on the composite video line were removed per Dan's instructions (highlighted blue in this image: https://i.imgur.com/o9hXA7A.png).

I'd like to re-enable composite video by replacing the components, so was wondering if anyone knew what each one was.

Thanks!

Does the Super Mario Sunshine 60FPS mod work on the original Nintendo GameCube hardware?

I am trying to feed my BVM A with my dreamcast.
Any recommendations for a vga to sdi scaler (720p)?

Best,

TVOne has a few, but I probably wouldn't go this way. If you get an Extron RGB-HDMI 300A (usually plenty available on ebay UK), you get a great VGA to HDMI scaler, which you can use to scale to 720p or 1080i and you then just add any cheap HDMI to SDI converter that just passes what it receives.

Thank you Fudoh.
Much appreciated!

Aside from the Analogue DAC, can anyone recommend a decent digital to analog video converter? I'm looking to connect my Retro Freak, Super NT and Mega SG to my non-flat Sony consumer CRT (with composite/S-video inputs).

Would it be better to just use something like this?:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-C ... 1QQ476DNST

or would I get better results with one of these?:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDM ... 1QQ476DNST
in combination with something like this:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2509

Thanks in advance for the insight.

I've asked this same question, but haven't found out yet. There is a WiiDual thread. You can try asking it there: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=61787&start=450

Some of the forum members actually work on Wiis regularly, so they should be able to tell you if they happen to see your comment.

Probably a better place to ask this than the other thread I tried, sorry. I have a V-Saturn that I'm trying to run directly into the VGA port of an Extron RGB-HDMI 300A, and I've made a cable that goes straight from the Saturn to the VGA port, using the Csync coming out of the Saturn. I have a picture, but I need to stretch the vertical display on the Extron to the max setting to have a good image (it seems to come in very squashed), it blinks out for a couple seconds about every 15 seconds (I haven't specifically timed it, I can do that if needed), and certain images have a really bad flicker, which I think is related to the frame rate being used, as it happens more with menus and FMVs than anything else. I don't have any resistors or caps on any lines, and my pinout is as follows:

1 - Red
2 - Green
3 - Blue
5, 6, 7, 8, 10 - Ground
13 - Csync

Is there a ground that should be attached, or that I'm missing? That's the main thing I can think of possibly being an issue, outside of something wrong with the Extron or the Saturn itself, but I doubt the Saturn has an issue. Is there anything I can do, or should I give up and save up for a Retrotink or OSSC?

Best box/device for image resizing, i.e. for hardware with lots of cropping or overscan on their video output? Would an Extron VSC be overkill?

The VSC is a scan converter. I think you meant a Extron DSC 301 HD. Those are nice machines and affordable. There's good and bad with every machine, so make sure to do some research. Full disclosure: my 301 HD is in a box in the closet with some other even newer Extron gear. They're great machines, just not what I want right now.

I still prefer my DVDO. (That's just me, though.) The Extron has 4:4:4 processing, a better scaling engine, and better overall image quality. On the other hand, you'll surrender the DVDO's low latency and ability to process odd "out of spec" sync.

There's other options out there besides those two, but that depends on your budget and other needs.

Hopefully, I am not mixing things.
I see few youtube videos in 240p. My intention was to watch them on my crt...Is there any console/media streamer which are able to do so or I am limited to 480i?
Thanks!

A raspberry Pi can be setup to output 240p, but you can't use Xorg at that resolution, so you won't be able to get into a browser. There is a program called youtube-dl that you can set up to stream youtube videos from the command line, and I used to use that in conjunction with the programs mps-youtube (as a command-line based front-end) to search for and stream videos. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to stream the last time I tried it. I can still use youtube-dl to download them and one of many video players to play them from the command line.

My guess with MPS-youtube is that it's been abandoned and the code is broken with newer versions of the OS, it probably is not worth trying that one. There may be some other way to do it, I'm not totally sure.

BTW, when you say 240p videos, I'm assuming you're talking about gameplay footage or something? Anything from a TV program would be 480i or 576i anyway, so you can just use something like an Extron VSC unit to interlace the output of a 1080p stream and it will look as good or better than the original broadcast (in my opinion).

I'm not specifically aware of a media streamer, but I would look into Kodi boxes for that kind of possibility. I would probably focus on something that you could use HDMI->VGA converter like the Tendak/Portta type device.

The latter is a passive cable adapter for composite or Y/C being sent over DE-15, as it says in the description. That AmazonBasics converter outputs an RGBHV signal.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233442833502

RARE VINTAGE RETROGAMING HEIRLOOM SCART SWITCH ONLY 139.99EUR BUY NOW!

Guess the few sellers that still had these ran out of new-old-stock. Should've bought a few more when they were 17EUR. Too bad, the manual/passive 7725 & 7723 are some of the best SCART switches out there with full compatibility and no loss of brightness/sharpness, noise etc.

Anybody planning to get their Bandridge graded by VGA? I bet a 9.8 CIB 7725 switch would fetch a pretty penny

Are there any potential problems with doing a feedback from an output back to an input on a matrix switch?

Use case:
I have a Sony PVM with two sets of BNC inputs. I intend one set to be RGBS and the other to be Component.

Some of the content I have will be 240p/480i while others will be EDTV/HDTV. I have a VSC 900 to downscale the higher res stuff.

I have an 8x4 matrix switch. Here is how I am thinking it can be mapped:

INPUTS:
1. 240p/480i RGBS
2. 240p/480i Component
3. 480p+ Component
4. Downscaled 480p+ Component from VSC
5. 480p+ RGBHV
6. Downscaled 480p+ RGBHV from VSC

OUTPUTS:
1. 240p/480i RGBS to PVM
2. 240p/480i Component to PVM
3. Component to VSC
4. RGBHV to VSC

For high res component content, for example, it would go:

HI-RES COMPONENT CONTENT -> Input #3
Input #3 -> Output #3
VSC 900 -> Input #4
Input #4 -> Output #2
Output #2 -> PVM

Any problems with doing this feedback loop?

Older setup diagram, but you'll have no problem with that. I've had like 12+ devices looped in and out of a Matrix switch - makes it SO easy since after initial setup you NEVER have to touch a wire ever again - just do all the routing through the matrix switcher itself.