Questions that do not deserve a thread

[GojiFan90]

What is the best product for removing scratches from glossy plastic consoles/controllers (i.e. PS3, Wii U etc.)? Plastic polish is usually suggested but any brand in particular? Would PlastX (Meguiar's) work?

[Steamflogger Boss]

So this came up from a user on another site. Is there a reason why the SNES wouldn't display properly on a portable DVD player? The same player displayed N64 and Gamecube fine.

[nmalinoski]

So this came up from a user on another site. Is there a reason why the SNES wouldn't display properly on a portable DVD player? The same player displayed N64 and Gamecube fine.

Could it be the SNES's well-known sync jitter issue? How is it not displaying "properly"?

[Steamflogger Boss]

So this came up from a user on another site. Is there a reason why the SNES wouldn't display properly on a portable DVD player? The same player displayed N64 and Gamecube fine.

Could it be the SNES's well-known sync jitter issue? How is it not displaying "properly"?

They said "(Screen doesn't change at all when turned on, no snow, nothing)".

[MidOrFeed2015]

I am seeing significant quality loss when connecting three 3 metre cables together from an extron to an OSSC, and I think the problem lies with the SCART couplers I bought.
If I take the coupler away and use one 3m cable from the extron to the OSSC, the quality is vastly improved.
Is it possible that the couplers I bought are just trash? But IDK in what way could they be bad. Is it possible they are wired for composite instead of RGB?
If you want a description of how bad it looks, adding couplers to the mix causes colours to become darker and blurrier, less varying. Also text (especially white) leave these streaks to the right (kind of like a ghost effect or something). It just looks bad.
If you guys have better ideas on how to extend three 3m scart cables I am all ears. This is my only option to get the extron to go to the OSSC. Maybe I just need to make sure to buy couplers wired for RGB instead?

[Harrumph]

Is it possible they are wired for composite instead of RGB?

No, they are definitely RGB, otherwise the OSSC wouldn’t work at all.

A more general advice would be to avoid such excessive SCART cable lengths. Put the OSSC closer to the extron and then use longer HDMI cable instead.

[MidOrFeed2015]

Is it possible they are wired for composite instead of RGB?

No, they are definitely RGB, otherwise the OSSC wouldn’t work at all.

A more general advice would be to avoid such excessive SCART cable lengths. Put the OSSC closer to the extron and then use longer HDMI cable instead.

there's got to be a way to use a 9 or 10m cable. I simply can't have the OSSC any closer than it is now.

[ldeveraux]

there's got to be a way to use a 9 or 10m cable. I simply can't have the OSSC any closer than it is now.

Why though? Even a well shielded cable would struggle with loss over 30ft!

[thebigcheese]

there's got to be a way to use a 9 or 10m cable. I simply can't have the OSSC any closer than it is now.

Why though? Even a well shielded cable would struggle with loss over 30ft!

Yeah, that's just physics... You're going to need active repeaters if you want to go that long. Heck, even some digital signals (HDMI, USB) don't work well at those distances.

[MidOrFeed2015]

Maybe, from the extron I should try transcoding SCART RGB to component ypbpr? Maybe long component cables do not suffer the same degradation that scart does. Thoughts?

[vol.2]

Maybe, from the extron I should try transcoding SCART RGB to component ypbpr? Maybe long component cables do not suffer the same degradation that scart does. Thoughts?

To answer your first question, yes the couplers could be making a difference. It all depends on whether or not you are adding resistance to the cable assembly and you probably are. By using lots of connectors and also having a long cable run, you are pushing the limits of your bandwidth and signal degradation is more likely to occur under those conditions; I would expect it.

As to whether component is going to have a longer run than RGB, I can't imagine it making a huge difference.

For that long of a run to have any chance to succeed, you'll have to get cables made to tighter tolerances, and that's also assuming you aren't adding too much resistance with whatever extra devices are in your signal path.

[nmalinoski]

Is it possible they are wired for composite instead of RGB?

No, they are definitely RGB, otherwise the OSSC wouldn’t work at all.

I think, in that instance, the OSSC would get sync, but the image would be all black, because the R, G, and B lines would be disconnected.

[Magicalbottle]

What would be the best option to play retro consoles on an OLED? OSCC or something other? New versions? I've been out of the loop for a year.

[maxtherabbit]

COAX cables will do fine at that length

preferably RG-59 or RG-6

[nmalinoski]

What would be the best option to play retro consoles on an OLED? OSCC or something other? New versions? I've been out of the loop for a year.

OSSC, generally. If you need composite or S-Video, grab a Koryuu or some form of RT2X, too.

[ldeveraux]

there's got to be a way to use a 9 or 10m cable. I simply can't have the OSSC any closer than it is now.

Why though? Even a well shielded cable would struggle with loss over 30ft!

Yeah, that's just physics... You're going to need active repeaters if you want to go that long. Heck, even some digital signals (HDMI, USB) don't work well at those distances.

Also, I'm trying to wrap my head around how a 30ft cable span works in a room. Presumably the consoles would be within controller cable's length of the TV, else you couldn't play (unless you went that crazy universal wireless controller route that one guy did). Unless you put a receiver that far away, but you'd still probably want the HDMI-v to go directly to the TV. I'd love to see a diagram or room map!

[nmalinoski]

Also, I'm trying to wrap my head around how a 30ft cable span works in a room. Presumably the consoles would be within controller cable's length of the TV, else you couldn't play (unless you went that crazy universal wireless controller route that one guy did). Unless you put a receiver that far away, but you'd still probably want the HDMI-v to go directly to the TV. I'd love to see a diagram or room map!

At my last place, I used a 20ft active HDMI cable to connect my receiver to my TV because of the layout of the living room. The front of the living room was covered in homemade wooden shelving (previous owner must've put it in), and had a large shelf in the middle large enough for a 36"/38" CRT, but, unfortunately for me, none of the shelves were deep enough for my receiver or any of my consoles. The single entrance was at the front-left of the room, the right-hand side had two windows on either side of a steam radiator, and the couch was along the rear wall.

Since the only free space available was along the left-hand wall, I ended up putting the glass TV stand that I had (which I was using at the next-to-last place) there and used it for my receiver and my entire console setup. Since I then had to run cables across the entryway (under the floor was possible, but I wouldn't have wanted to make anything more than one or two small holes; and running cables around the outer perimeter was impractical), I bought a stiff rubber cable raceway meant for flooring. That carried 5 speaker wire runs (bi-amped fronts, center), network (switch to wire in AVR, PS2, Xbox, PS3, two Xbox 360s, Steam Link), and HDMI.

That setup worked well for the time I was living there.

[ldeveraux]

Also, I'm trying to wrap my head around how a 30ft cable span works in a room. Presumably the consoles would be within controller cable's length of the TV, else you couldn't play (unless you went that crazy universal wireless controller route that one guy did). Unless you put a receiver that far away, but you'd still probably want the HDMI-v to go directly to the TV. I'd love to see a diagram or room map!

At my last place, I used a 20ft active HDMI cable to connect my receiver to my TV because of the layout of the living room. The front of the living room was covered in homemade wooden shelving (previous owner must've put it in), and had a large shelf in the middle large enough for a 36"/38" CRT, but, unfortunately for me, none of the shelves were deep enough for my receiver or any of my consoles. The single entrance was at the front-left of the room, the right-hand side had two windows on either side of a steam radiator, and the couch was along the rear wall.

Since the only free space available was along the left-hand wall, I ended up putting the glass TV stand that I had (which I was using at the next-to-last place) there and used it for my receiver and my entire console setup. Since I then had to run cables across the entryway (under the floor was possible, but I wouldn't have wanted to make anything more than one or two small holes; and running cables around the outer perimeter was impractical), I bought a stiff rubber cable raceway meant for flooring. That carried 5 speaker wire runs (bi-amped fronts, center), network (switch to wire in AVR, PS2, Xbox, PS3, two Xbox 360s, Steam Link), and HDMI.

That setup worked well for the time I was living there.

But you at least took what's probably considered the correct route. You made the span with digital technology where the chance for loss was less. The dude here wants to span the analog SCART cable which, from what I've read, isn't the right way to solve that problem.

[DatMonkey]

Does anyone know if Retro Gaming Cables' Dreamcast Packapunch cable is compatible with the BKM-68X?

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/seg ... -480P-MODE

[bahamutfan64]

A year or so ago, my BVM would occasionally make an electric 'clicking' sound, accompanied by a 'blinking' of the picture briefly dropping out and in again for a micro-second. Just one or two clicks every few weeks - so it was nigh impossible to locate the exact source with all of the lights off staring stubbornly into the back of the monitor. The advice I got at the time was that the flyback was probably arcing and on it's way out - but I wanted to explore other less dramatic potentials. When I opened it up, everything inside was filthy. Absolutely caked in dust. I cleaned as much dust and grime as I could and haven't heard a click since.

However, I've never actually questioned why exactly cleaning the dust removed the clicking/blinking issue and would love some insight into what was transpiring under the hood. I'm also curious as to whether it's worth diagnosing if any components in the back were damaged by the build up of dust. Is there anything in particular I should look for? Burn marks or soot in the wrong places?

Cheers!

The insulation of the flyback, the HV wire, or the anode cup isn’t what it used to be, and this could simply be a result of age. Thoroughly cleaning out the dust helps to remove the conductive pathway the high voltage can follow, which was causing the arcing.

If it comes back again: I don’t know if you already have, but I would also clean the underside of the anode cup and apply some dielectric grease to it (you’d obviously have to discharge the tube). There are plenty of videos on all of this.

[MidOrFeed2015]

Also, I'm trying to wrap my head around how a 30ft cable span works in a room. Presumably the consoles would be within controller cable's length of the TV, else you couldn't play (unless you went that crazy universal wireless controller route that one guy did). Unless you put a receiver that far away, but you'd still probably want the HDMI-v to go directly to the TV. I'd love to see a diagram or room map!

At my last place, I used a 20ft active HDMI cable to connect my receiver to my TV because of the layout of the living room. The front of the living room was covered in homemade wooden shelving (previous owner must've put it in), and had a large shelf in the middle large enough for a 36"/38" CRT, but, unfortunately for me, none of the shelves were deep enough for my receiver or any of my consoles. The single entrance was at the front-left of the room, the right-hand side had two windows on either side of a steam radiator, and the couch was along the rear wall.

Since the only free space available was along the left-hand wall, I ended up putting the glass TV stand that I had (which I was using at the next-to-last place) there and used it for my receiver and my entire console setup. Since I then had to run cables across the entryway (under the floor was possible, but I wouldn't have wanted to make anything more than one or two small holes; and running cables around the outer perimeter was impractical), I bought a stiff rubber cable raceway meant for flooring. That carried 5 speaker wire runs (bi-amped fronts, center), network (switch to wire in AVR, PS2, Xbox, PS3, two Xbox 360s, Steam Link), and HDMI.

That setup worked well for the time I was living there.

But you at least took what's probably considered the correct route. You made the span with digital technology where the chance for loss was less. The dude here wants to span the analog SCART cable which, from what I've read, isn't the right way to solve that problem.

alas I have come up with a new idea. I will use a 30FT HDMI cable and a short SCART cable from the extron, rather than a 3FT HDMI cable and 30FT SCART cable.

EDIT: I now know the path I must take. I have tried a spare 30FT HDMI cable I had lying around and the image is astoundingly superior.

[headlesshobbs]

Is there any kind of hardware that combines 2 or more video sources together on the same screen?

Some arcade games were run with multiple monitors together with mirrors to create that ultra widescreen effect. I've found the datapath x4, but that's clearly the opposite of what I'm after.

[Fudoh]

Is there any kind of hardware that combines 2 or more video sources together on the same screen?

yes, these are usually called multi-view processors.

Extron or TVOne had some available. We recently had a thread, where somebody wanted to combine two sources on one screen, but most of these processors offer four inputs. You just need to find something that accepts the KIND OF SIGNALS you want to use, otherwise it can get expensive when you need multiple line doublers as well.

[Dochartaigh]

Is there any kind of hardware that combines 2 or more video sources together on the same screen?

yes, these are usually called multi-view processors.

Extron or TVOne had some available. We recently had a thread, where somebody wanted to combine two sources on one screen, but most of these processors offer four inputs. You just need to find something that accepts the KIND OF SIGNALS you want to use, otherwise it can get expensive when you need multiple line doublers as well.

I have the TVOne C2-6104A Multiviewer which will take in 4x YpbPr/RGBS/etc in (along with pretty much everything up to 1080p, and even 2048x2048 PC signals) and put those 4 signals on a single 1080p flatscreen, but I've never done a custom config to have 2x only side by side (think it's possible - has Windows software which still runs on Windows 10 if my memory serves). Never really messed with mine much as I don't like the Corio's 240p upscaling (just because the OSSC does it better to my eyes) -- we mostly use them for downscaling.

[The Zuck]

Can anyone tell me what this rumored external Wii HDMI mod is called? I only know of WiiDual and it's successor WiiDigital.

[nmalinoski]

Can anyone tell me what this rumored external Wii HDMI mod is called? I only know of WiiDual and it's successor WiiDigital.

I'm not sure which one you're talking about, but anything external is going to be a simple YPbPr to HDMI converter, possibly with 1080p upscaling, so it's probably not going to look all that good. There are already cheap, abundant Wii2HDMI converters on the market; if there's a new one, I imagine it would be more of the same.

[vol.2]

external Wii HDMI mod

I'm confused by the "mod" description. It's external, but it's a "mod?"

[Ikaruga11]

Is it worth recapping my 2010 Red Wii?

[The Zuck]

I guess I must've been mistaken. I saw a post on Reddit mention a new external method for 1080p upscaling outside of WiiDigital. No name or anything was mentioned so I was curious if anyone here had heard of something similar. I'm aware of the Aliexpress and Hyperkin options, but this seemed to infer a product different from those.

[vol.2]

Is it worth recapping my 2010 Red Wii?

By 2010, the process technology for caps had come so far that premature failure became practically non-existent. If it was going to fail, something would have most likely gone wrong already. You see a lot of recapping going on with 80's and 90's consoles because there were some "bad batches" of caps that circulated through the consumer electronics industry at various times.
The 90's devices in particular are prone to failure because of a case of industrial espionage in which one of the big component companies tried to steal the "recipe" for making surface mount elec caps and either missed one of the steps or was purposefully fed misinformation. I can't remember the details, but it's something like that.

The actual chances of your red wii that you know to be in good working order having iffy caps is *extremely* low, and not so much different from the chances of the new caps going bad. So I would say "nah," but that's my 2 cents.

All the other stuff (aside from the UV coating and lubing the drive) seems like stuff that should be wrapped into the price of the mod, and it was probably taken out to make the "cap package" look like a better idea, so it kind of rubs me the wrong way.