Questions that do not deserve a thread

[ldeveraux]

It's not all that hard to take the official Xbox composite cable connector and splice it onto an official xbox 360 component cable, that will provide great video quality and both cables are common and cheap. There are guides online, and occasionally I see them pop up on Ebay.

Nah, I'll just get the official cable.

[Sefirosu789]

I'm going to perform the CSYNC mod on my PS1 shown here: https://youtu.be/hT5NSWS-znc?t=927 (install a 75 ohm resistor to pin 156 (CSYNC) of the GPU followed by a 220UF cap).

I want to ask if anyone knows what components I need inside the cable? RGC + Retro Access don't stock any CSYNC or standard PS1 cable but only Sync on Luma or CSYNC via sync stripper.

I read that I just need a "regular" PS1 SCART cable wired for sync on Pin 6. I assume I will need 220UF caps on the RGB lines, but what about the sync line in the cable? Does it need a 470 Ohm resistor or no components at all? I will get RGC to make a custom cable but want to make sure I don't get it made incorrectly...

[nmalinoski]

I want to ask if anyone knows what components I need inside the cable? RGC + Retro Access don't stock any CSYNC or standard PS1 cable but only Sync on Luma or CSYNC via sync stripper.

I read that I just need a "regular" PS1 SCART cable wired for sync on Pin 6. I assume I will need 220UF caps on the RGB lines, but what about the sync line in the cable? Does it need a 470 Ohm resistor or no components at all? I will get RGC to make a custom cable but want to make sure I don't get it made incorrectly...

There are no plain composite sync cables for the PS1, PS2, or PS3, because CSync is not available on the PlayStation's AV output; from these consoles, you can normally only get composite sync from either composite video (typical source when using SCART) or luma (better, because there's no chroma signal to interfere with the RGB signals).

If you're cutting the trace for composite video (pin 6 on the PlayStation AV port, not pin 6 on the SCART connector) and wiring composite sync to it, then, yes, you'll need a regular, sync-on-composite SCART cable with 220uF caps on each of the RGB lines, and, from what I've read on the Assembler Forums, you need a 75Ohm resistor, then a 220uF cap connected at the AV port.

Is there a particular reason why you need composite sync? And, if so, why go the modding route instead of just getting a premade cable with a sync stripper (either a SCART cable or Ultimarc's DE-15 cable)?

[Sefirosu789]

I want to ask if anyone knows what components I need inside the cable? RGC + Retro Access don't stock any CSYNC or standard PS1 cable but only Sync on Luma or CSYNC via sync stripper.

I read that I just need a "regular" PS1 SCART cable wired for sync on Pin 6. I assume I will need 220UF caps on the RGB lines, but what about the sync line in the cable? Does it need a 470 Ohm resistor or no components at all? I will get RGC to make a custom cable but want to make sure I don't get it made incorrectly...

There are no plain composite sync cables for the PS1, PS2, or PS3, because CSync is not available on the PlayStation's AV output; from these consoles, you can normally only get composite sync from either composite video (typical source when using SCART) or luma (better, because there's no chroma signal to interfere with the RGB signals).

If you're cutting the trace for composite video (pin 6 on the PlayStation AV port, not pin 6 on the SCART connector) and wiring composite sync to it, then, yes, you'll need a regular, sync-on-composite SCART cable with 220uF caps on each of the RGB lines, and, from what I've read on the Assembler Forums, you need a 75Ohm resistor, then a 220uF cap connected at the AV port.

Is there a particular reason why you need composite sync? And, if so, why go the modding route instead of just getting a premade cable with a sync stripper (either a SCART cable or Ultimarc's DE-15 cable)?

Thanks for the reply.

I won't be cutting the trace but the video (https://youtu.be/hT5NSWS-znc?t=927) seems to replace composite video with composite sync on pin 6 inside the console. Yes there will be a 75 Ohm resistor, then a 220UF cap connected at the AV port.

I guess my question is... In the cable, do I need a 470 Ohm resistor on the sync line or not? I'm not sure of it's purpose but it seems most cables from RGC for example have it. Also from retrorgb.com "All RGB SCART cables that use csync should have a 330-450 ohm resistor on the csync line. Simply adding one to the SCART head is fine."

Yes the reason for wanting CSYNC is just for compatibility. I use a monitor which only accepts composite sync signals and also an Extron which I believe doesn't accept sync on luma. I would rather just mod the console for csync directly at the source than using a sync stripper.

[rama]

How you connect the 3.3Vpp GPU CSync to the AV port largely depends on the type of cable you want to use.
If you're doing the CVBS replacement for a sync on CVBS standard cable, the capacitor should be 220uF.
Simply repurpose the existing CVBS cap then.
The resistor should be more than 75 Ohms, but the exact value depends on the application.
I recommend going with 470 Ohm.

Without having measured it, I expect the signal on the receiving side to be between 0.3Vpp and maybe 1.0Vpp.
With just 75 Ohms, the amplitude will be quite large and the console may source too much current.

[andykara2003]

Does anyone know if the official PAL SNES RGB scart cable was ever released in the UK back in the day? I’ve heard a vague rumour that they were only available in France but I’m not convinced..

Also, did the pal snes support s-video? I have a 1 chip snes with an RGB cable, but am interested in trying s-video for a softer/less pixellated look. I have an N64 s-video cabled I tried with it, but no picture with this, or even an N64 composite cable :/

Lastly, did the PAL megadrive have an official RGB scart cable in the UK?

[nmalinoski]

I won't be cutting the trace but the video (https://youtu.be/hT5NSWS-znc?t=927) seems to replace composite video with composite sync on pin 6 inside the console. Yes there will be a 75 Ohm resistor, then a 220UF cap connected at the AV port.

I guess my question is... In the cable, do I need a 470 Ohm resistor on the sync line or not? I'm not sure of it's purpose but it seems most cables from RGC for example have it. Also from retrorgb.com "All RGB SCART cables that use csync should have a 330-450 ohm resistor on the csync line. Simply adding one to the SCART head is fine."

That mod has the same effect as cutting the composite video trace, but is far less destructive.

Personally, if I was going directly to a monitor or piece of Extron equipment that needed composite sync, I'd just buy a BNC or DE-15 cable from Retro-Access (cheaper than buying a SCART cable plus a SCART->BNC adapter). When you order it, you'll want to specify that it's for a PS1, and that you need 220uF caps on the RGB lines. If the PS1 calls for a 470Ohm resistor in the cable, then it should be included implicitly.

[Sefirosu789]

How you connect the 3.3Vpp GPU CSync to the AV port largely depends on the type of cable you want to use.
If you're doing the CVBS replacement for a sync on CVBS standard cable, the capacitor should be 220uF.
Simply repurpose the existing CVBS cap then.
The resistor should be more than 75 Ohms, but the exact value depends on the application.
I recommend going with 470 Ohm.

Without having measured it, I expect the signal on the receiving side to be between 0.3Vpp and maybe 1.0Vpp.
With just 75 Ohms, the amplitude will be quite large and the console may source too much current.

So assuming I install the 75 Ohm resistor followed by the repurposed 220UF capacitor in the console, are you saying replace the 75 Ohm resistor with a higher value? Or add the 470 Ohm resistor in the cable? Sorry a bit confused with which one you meant.

Personally, if I was going directly to a monitor or piece of Extron equipment that needed composite sync, I'd just buy a BNC or DE-15 cable from Retro-Access (cheaper than buying a SCART cable plus a SCART->BNC adapter). When you order it, you'll want to specify that it's for a PS1, and that you need 220uF caps on the RGB lines. If the PS1 calls for a 470Ohm resistor in the cable, then it should be included implicitly.

I already have lots of SCART > BNC adapters made. I can't order from Retro Access as not in the States so will go with RGC. They told me it will need 220 UF caps on the RGB lines but didn't mention any components on the sync line so I want to check if it does/doesn't need any to make sure it works correctly as I don't want to break my equipment. So it seems that with the 75 Ohm resistor and 220UF cap in the console, I do still need a 470 Ohm resistor in the cable?

[RottenToTheGore]

Hooked up a Genesis 2 I hadn't used much before to use with the Mega SD, and I noticed that the whites had a strong hint of yellow to them.

I bought and plan to install a triple bypass shortly, but is this a sign of something else I should look into fixing as well?

[Einzelherz]

If anyone here has ordered an Asian or Japanese Genesis mini, do the 6 button controllers work on the PC?

[rama]

Sefirosu789:
If you go this route, replace the 75 Ohm resistor in the mod description with 470 Ohm.
Looking from the CSync output pin on the GPU, first have the 470 Ohm series resistor, then the 220uF capacitor, then the AV output.
I recommend replacing the CVBS signal with CSync, so that standard sync on composite RGB cables work with this modification.
In later PSX consoles at least, it is convenient to remove the CVBS 75 Ohm resistor and attach the conditioned CSync signal there.
This avoids cutting traces and you can leave the 220uF capacitor in place as well

[Sefirosu789]

Sefirosu789:
If you go this route, replace the 75 Ohm resistor in the mod description with 470 Ohm.
Looking from the CSync output pin on the GPU, first have the 470 Ohm series resistor, then the 220uF capacitor, then the AV output.
I recommend replacing the CVBS signal with CSync, so that standard sync on composite RGB cables work with this modification.
In later PSX consoles at least, it is convenient to remove the CVBS 75 Ohm resistor and attach the conditioned CSync signal there.
This avoids cutting traces and you can leave the 220uF capacitor in place as well

Great. This is just the answer I needed. Thank you, Rama.

[Cuilan]

Edit: Nevermind, problem solved.

[pedroTFP]

I'm looking at a Sony GDM-F500 (up to 1200p) and a 720p capable BVM (900 lines).
Money aside, as the BVM any real advantage playing 480p games (DC, Wii, NGC, PS2)?

Is the GDM tube used in any PVM\BVM? I ask because I read around that the GDW-900 tube is probably the same as the one in the D24 BVM.

[Fudoh]

Money aside, as the BVM any real advantage playing 480p games (DC, Wii, NGC, PS2)?

not really. Factory calibration (colors, color temp, convergenge, geometry) is certainly better on the BVMs though.

Is the GDM tube used in any PVM\BVM?

no, Sony never considered the flat 20/21" tubes good enough. All the 20" PVM/BVMs were curved instead.

[MidOrFeed2015]

I bought an extron crosspoint 12x8. It came with 20 of those blue phoenix connectors (see pic related):



any tips on how I can add RCA female cords? should the wiring be different for the inputs and outputs?

seeing as how the phoenix connectors are already here I figured I would just perform the mod myself to save money.

[orange808]

Wiring diagram for Extron Phoenix Connection:

https://www.extron.com/download/files/u ... -01__G.pdf

You want unbalanced.

[Dochartaigh]

I bought an extron crosspoint 12x8. It came with 20 of those blue phoenix connectors (see pic related):

I would suggest to buy decent quality RCA's you've going to cut-up. The cheap ones use such thin wire its a pain to work with. Also make sure you zip-tie like they show - that will prevent them from being pulled out (or help at least). This is also why this type with the wing is the best type (others SUCK).

[MidOrFeed2015]

thank you friends.
two questions:

1. i see the sleeve reference in that RCA connector, but where would the sleeve be if it was a wire? and what would tip be?
2. do you see in the unbalanced diagram how the gray wire has a C going from - to sleeve? does this mean tip is wired to + and sleeve is wired to both - and sleeve?

[maxtherabbit]

I bought an extron crosspoint 12x8. It came with 20 of those blue phoenix connectors (see pic related):

I would suggest to buy decent quality RCA's you've going to cut-up. The cheap ones use such thin wire its a pain to work with. Also make sure you zip-tie like they show - that will prevent them from being pulled out (or help at least). This is also why this type with the wing is the best type (others SUCK).

I use 16 gauge wires soldered onto RCA jacks purchased with pennies from china, screw the piss out of the regular green chinesium phoenix connectors down on the 16ga it stays put good

[MidOrFeed2015]

I bought an extron crosspoint 12x8. It came with 20 of those blue phoenix connectors (see pic related):

I would suggest to buy decent quality RCA's you've going to cut-up. The cheap ones use such thin wire its a pain to work with. Also make sure you zip-tie like they show - that will prevent them from being pulled out (or help at least). This is also why this type with the wing is the best type (others SUCK).

I use 16 gauge wires soldered onto RCA jacks purchased with pennies from china, screw the piss out of the regular green chinesium phoenix connectors down on the 16ga it stays put good

would something like that work with 16 gauge wires? imagine the end of that being a single female rca port. theae are not too expensive either

[nmalinoski]

would something like that work with 16 gauge wires? imagine the end of that being a single female rca port. theae are not too expensive either

I'd advise against them, unless you get ones that match the full width of the sockets and/or do some sanding, and you provide some kind of alternative cable support. I bought some green 5-position ones a couple years ago, and I couldn't get them to fit side-by-side in the 10-position sockets in my Crosspoint Ultra; they were simply too wide, whereas the Extron-branded ones fit perfectly.

Separately, you really want to get some that have the cable supports, like the ones in MidOrFeed2015's photo, otherwise you risk pulling wires out of the screw terminals and then having to pull out your equipment, pull out the connector, fish out the wire, reattach, reassemble, etc.

[DJ Kevgeez]

Does anyone know who i can get in contact with that is excellent at Troubleshooting SNES and figure out things?
I dont know what the problem is with my SNES.

I've had it modded and de-jittered. Voultar's chip and all that stuff.
It is a 1-Chip SNES, and i know its not the problem becuase i had it with my last SNES.
I'm using SCART, all the right cables and connectors. I recently bought different Scart cables thinking they were the problem.

Still having Horizontal bars on screen.
I dont get it.

Also, i have the Gscart, and it helped but they are still present.
I bought a GComp that is arriving soon but today i received my HD Retrovision Component cables and the lines were still there when i plugged the SNES directly into the TV.

[DJ Kevgeez]

question:
I ordered a Mega SD and just received my SD Card 400GB, and i realized i have no where to plug it into my computer.

How do i get the game roms onto the SD Card?

I'm researching on google but i feel like the people here are the best to ask.

[nmalinoski]

question:
I ordered a Mega SD and just received my SD Card 400GB, and i realized i have no where to plug it into my computer.

How do i get the game roms onto the SD Card?

I'm researching on google but i feel like the people here are the best to ask.

Buy a card reader. You'll probably want a USB 3.x one, because USB 2.0 readers are going to be a tad slow.

[DJ Kevgeez]

question:
I ordered a Mega SD and just received my SD Card 400GB, and i realized i have no where to plug it into my computer.

How do i get the game roms onto the SD Card?

I'm researching on google but i feel like the people here are the best to ask.

Buy a card reader. You'll probably want a USB 3.x one, because USB 2.0 readers are going to be a tad slow.

Just got one.
Thx.

I'm just trying to figure out WHERE to get the ROM packs now.
I went to RetroRGB's site and he showed a link to "SmokeMonsterPack" but even after registering, i dont know what to do.
Its like just a bunch of pages with links and Code, but i am not a programmer.

I dont think the Mega SD will ever take over buying carts if it is this difficult.
People like easy.

[strayan]

question:
I ordered a Mega SD and just received my SD Card 400GB, and i realized i have no where to plug it into my computer.

How do i get the game roms onto the SD Card?

I'm researching on google but i feel like the people here are the best to ask.

Buy a card reader. You'll probably want a USB 3.x one, because USB 2.0 readers are going to be a tad slow.

Just got one.
Thx.

I'm just trying to figure out WHERE to get the ROM packs now.
I went to RetroRGB's site and he showed a link to "SmokeMonsterPack" but even after registering, i dont know what to do.
Its like just a bunch of pages with links and Code, but i am not a programmer.

I dont think the Mega SD will ever take over buying carts if it is this difficult.
People like easy.

So you bought something even though you didn't have a SD media card reader and you didn't have anything to put on it.

"How do I get the roms on the SD card? Oh and by the way I don't even have any roms or know where to get them. This is just so hard!"

This just gets funnier. Before I go on do you have a Mega Drive and TV? You got electricity? You'll need those things first.

[makar1]

If anyone here has ordered an Asian or Japanese Genesis mini, do the 6 button controllers work on the PC?

It shows up as "6B controller" in Windows and all buttons register properly. Buttons 7 and 8 don't seem to exist though.

[maxtherabbit]

would something like that work with 16 gauge wires? imagine the end of that being a single female rca port. theae are not too expensive either

yes I use those exact adapters for CCTV installs with 16ga sometimes, it fits fine (but that's about the limit of that specific wire cage)

[MidOrFeed2015]

would something like that work with 16 gauge wires? imagine the end of that being a single female rca port. theae are not too expensive either

yes I use those exact adapters for CCTV installs with 16ga sometimes, it fits fine (but that's about the limit of that specific wire cage)

ill grab 2 of them and give it a try. seems like a easy and clean route.