Questions that do not deserve a thread

[FinalBaton]

I'm looking to feed 480p from my Dreamcast to my Samsung plasma display, and I'm curious what my best option is. I'm using a SCART cable from retro access and I have both a Framemeister and Shinybow SCART to component transcoder. My plasma has analog component inputs, so I'm wondering if it's better to go SCART>Shinybow>component in(analog) or SCART>Framemeister>HDMI in(digital)? Thanks in advance.

My Samsung plasma does a great job of upscaling 480p. And it's component input is well-tuned

The Framemeister doesn't do a super job upscaling 480p material.


Assuming your TV does a good 480p upscale aswell, I'd definitely go through the Shinybow and plugged into the TV's component input.

[GojiFan90]

My Samsung plasma does a great job of upscaling 480p. And it's component input is well-tuned.

The Framemeister doesn't do a super job upscaling 480p material.


Assuming your TV does a good 480p upscale aswell, I'd definitely go through the Shinybow and plugged into the TV's component input.

Thanks! I originally purchased the Shinybow for use with a CRT and it hasn't been used much aside from that, so it's nice to give it a new purpose. I've never been a fan of the Framemeister's handling of 480p so I think keeping everything analog will be beneficial in this instance. I can't wait for Insurrection's GameCube component cables so I can finally get rid of my GCHD and just feed a pure analog 480p signal into my plasma (or my HD CRT).

[maxtherabbit]

I'm looking to feed 480p from my Dreamcast to my Samsung plasma display, and I'm curious what my best option is. I'm using a SCART cable from retro access and I have both a Framemeister and Shinybow SCART to component transcoder. My plasma has analog component inputs, so I'm wondering if it's better to go SCART>Shinybow>component in(analog) or SCART>Framemeister>HDMI in(digital)? Thanks in advance.

My Samsung plasma does a great job of upscaling 480p. And it's component input is well-tuned

The Framemeister doesn't do a super job upscaling 480p material.


Assuming your TV does a good 480p upscale aswell, I'd definitely go through the Shinybow and plugged into the TV's component input.

That's curious. I adore my Samsung plasma but its scaling is disgustingly soft. And the analog front end is similarly unimpressive.

IMO the best answer to the question posed is the OSSC, barring that I'd imagine the XRGB mini would still produce better results than going in through the TVs analog inputs if its anything like mine

[orange808]

Wow. Importing custom output timings on 301 HD is a real pain in arse! Making .bin files to import EDIDs isn't user friendly.

No luck with proper 240p downscaling. I don't have the time or energy to create dozens of EDID's to find the pixel clock floor, but it definitely isn't able to go low enough for 720x240.


Super resolution 240p (1920x240) shows more promise, but I didn't bother trying to get that right. I guess that's still possible.

Anyhow, I wouldn't bother adding a DAC to the 301 HD on your pro video CRT monitor or consumer CRT.

Upscaling only.

[Unseen]

I don't have the time or energy to create dozens of EDID's to find the pixel clock floor, but it definitely isn't able to go low enough for 720x240.

I would guess 25MHz (on the wire) because that is the minimum TMDS clock for DVI and HDMI. Even if the scaler can go lower, the receiver would need to support it too.

Super resolution 240p (1920x240) shows more promise, but I didn't bother trying to get that right. I guess that's still possible.

The correct way to fix it would be to use pixel replication and flagging it as such in the HDMI metadata. The relevant CEA standard specifies pixel doubling for 720x240p/480i/288p/576i for an effective horizontal resolution of 1440 pixels, but it also defines a few special modes with 2880 horizontal pixels and up to 10x pixel replication to support pixel-exact output of content from low-resolution game systems.

[orange808]

I would guess 25MHz (on the wire) because that is the minimum TMDS clock for DVI and HDMI. Even if the scaler can go lower, the receiver would need to support it too.

I don't know the minimums, but that sounds reasonable.

The 301 HD does have a "DVI" mode that I tried hoping to get better compatibility. Some other video processors and displays are a bit more forgiving with signals marked as DVI.

I don't have general display compatibility concerns when I test downscaling. My DAC doesn't mind the standards and gladly converts just about anything to RGB. I also have a projector hooked up that is very accommodating and accepts just about anything that I can input.

The correct way to fix it would be to use pixel replication and flagging it as such in the HDMI metadata. The relevant CEA standard specifies pixel doubling for 720x240p/480i/288p/576i for an effective horizontal resolution of 1440 pixels, but it also defines a few special modes with 2880 horizontal pixels and up to 10x pixel replication to support pixel-exact output of content from low-resolution game systems.

That sort of makes sense if I planned to feed a standard digital display, but I can't think of a use case for downscaling doubled vertical lines while doubling color clocks on a modern display. Additionally, once I start feeding 1440 color clocks with only 240 lines, I've already abandoned the standards and picky displays wouldn't accept it, anyway.

I find that the best timings for the horizontal color clocks are system specific, but I chose 1920 as a convenient starting point. Standards don't really matter much here, because the goal would be to feed a CRT through a DAC (that gladly accepts off spec signals). Naturally, a CRT has no concept of horizontal resolution, so I only have to remain within the mechanical abilities of the display. (All academic, of course, because I have no use for super resolution and it's much easier--and more practical--to use a Corio2 for custom timings.)

[strayan]

Wow. Importing custom output timings on 301 HD is a real pain in arse! Making .bin files to import EDIDs isn't user friendly.

Is there a guide for this somewhere?

[H6rdc0re]

I recently got a free SNES Jr that's not working. After troubleshooting it's clear the vias connecting the voltage regulator are damaged and won't properly connect. Does anyone if there are alternative connecting vias where I can route the legs of the 7805 voltage regulator to? Otherwise perhaps I can scrape away some of the board to expose the traces but I don't know where to scrape if possible. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[vol.2]

I recently got a free SNES Jr that's not working. After troubleshooting it's clear the vias connecting the voltage regulator are damaged and won't properly connect. Does anyone if there are alternative connecting vias where I can route the legs of the 7805 voltage regulator to? Otherwise perhaps I can scrape away some of the board to expose the traces but I don't know where to scrape if possible. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

You'll need the revision #. If you input the model into google, you should come up with the schematics. They are widely published on the internet.

Here is a link to a schematic PDF it should be more or less correct: https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.p ... iagram.pdf

If that particular VR is you issue, then you should be able to figure out a way to route it.

[rama]

After troubleshooting it's clear the vias connecting the voltage regulator are damaged and won't properly connect.

You may want to investigate further (after fixing this) to find out what could have caused this problem.
It's very unusual to have the 7805 disconnect from its vias, unless there was some serious charge going through it, or possibly a bodged repair.

[Einzelherz]

What should I be looking for in the cheap but serviceable RGB Scart to HDMI converters? Some lag is fine as it would just be for group saturn bomberman messing around mostly.

[vol.2]

What should I be looking for in the cheap but serviceable RGB Scart to HDMI converters? Some lag is fine as it would just be for group saturn bomberman messing around mostly.

My understanding is that the cheap ones tend to fail after awhile, but they "do the job" until that happens. There's a $40 one on Amazon that would probably fit the bill. If you're looking for something that will last, I think you have to open your wallet a little wider.

[Revolver Ocelot]

Are the orignal RGB Scart cables issued with the pal Saturn back then in the 90s compatible with NTSC Units as well?


I have got two Sega Saturn in my Collection. A pal unit and a NTSC J unit. I had to buy a rgb scart cable for the japanese Saturn. Unfornately it was a rather cheap one that spoiled now.

The cable for the pal Unit is still working properly and even has a cleaner Signal than the cheap one. I have already read that under some cirumstances a pal cable might destroy a NTSC unit. But it seems to be possible to make a cable that can be used on Pal and NTSC Units. Retro gaming cables uk makes such a cable for example.

Do you guys know if the orignal Saturn cables were build the same way like the Retro gaming cables one or would it be dangerous to use them a NTSC unit? I do not want to endanger my Saturn or my framemeister, that's why i am asking.

[Fudoh]

original SEGA cables from the 90s use composite video for sync, so they work on both PAL and NTSC machines.

If you buy a new cable and you want one that works on both machine regions, get one that uses luma as sync. Less interference than the original cables and no worries about PAL machines not providing a clean C-sync signal.

[Revolver Ocelot]

original SEGA cables from the 90s use composite video for sync, so they work on both PAL and NTSC machines.

If you buy a new cable and you want one that works on both machine regions, get one that uses luma as sync. Less interference than the original cables and no worries about PAL machines not providing a clean C-sync signal.

Ok perfect. Thanks a lot for your help.

[AceFan84]

I have a couple questions about using the Gameboy Interface on a 480i CRT. First off, I am using a Gameboy Player with Action Replay/SD Memory card adapter to boot GBI on my 480i Trinitron thru Swiss. I have it hooked up with HDRV Wii component cables plugged into a GCHD Mk II. Now I CAN get GBI working fine in 240p when I use the speedrunner build of GBI but it doesn't appear to have near the options that the "normal" GBI has, it works fine but is kinda barebones. I however CANNOT get GBI to run on my tv when I try to load up the "normal" version, the picture is badly distorted and unusable. Is it not possible to run the standard GBI on a CRT that only does 480i? If that is the case is there a way I can zoom the picture in when playing games on the speedrunning version of GBI, it's super easy to do on the standard version but like I mentioned I can't get that version to work on my CRT.

[Kez]

You're probably putting out 480p, it's been a while but I think if you load up a GC game, hold B on boot and say NO when it asks about progressive scan, the game will load in 480i.. GBI should then load in 480i as well. You will also need to set the GCHD Mk II to NOT linedouble 480i.

[AceFan84]

You're probably putting out 480p, it's been a while but I think if you load up a GC game, hold B on boot and say NO when it asks about progressive scan, the game will load in 480i.. GBI should then load in 480i as well. You will also need to set the GCHD Mk II to NOT linedouble 480i.

Yeah I changed the Mk II to not linedouble, that was giving me trouble intially but I figured that one out. I just am confused on why the GBI would be putting out 480p, I change the resolution to 240p60 in the GBI options but it still won't work right, it's confusing. I feel like maybe I'm missing something fairly obvious...

[vol.2]

I feel like maybe I'm missing something fairly obvious...

Not sure if you got the fact that you need to set the GC itself to 480i. I think what Kez wrote " if you load up a GC game, hold B on boot and say NO when it asks about progressive scan, the game will load in 480i.. GBI should then load in 480i as well."

[Extrems]

In the GCHD's menu, set "Mode Select" to dYUV.

https://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.php?title=Game_Boy_Interface/Standard_Edition#Why_is_my_picture_cut_or_off-center.3F

[AceFan84]

In the GCHD's menu, set "Mode Select" to dYUV.

https://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.php?title=Game_Boy_Interface/Standard_Edition#Why_is_my_picture_cut_or_off-center.3F

This worked, thank you so much!!! It makes things a lot easier when you get help from the master himself!

[AceFan84]

I've got one more Gameboy Interface question, how do I backup my game saves onto the sd card, I believe it's possible to do correct? I tried holding down the Start and Z (select) buttons on my Gamecube controller when booting a GBA game but I haven't had any luck yet, it just boots into the game like normal.

[RottenToTheGore]

Longshot, but has anyone ever wired a standard sustain pedal (like for keyboards) to a controller before?

They're pretty cheap and I might have one lying around. I was thinking if it's just a standard TS plug I could connect it as signal and ground to a playstation controller for Time Crisis.

[nmalinoski]

Longshot, but has anyone ever wired a standard sustain pedal (like for keyboards) to a controller before?

They're pretty cheap and I might have one lying around. I was thinking if it's just a standard TS plug I could connect it as signal and ground to a playstation controller for Time Crisis.

I don't know about anything like that for use with Time Crisis, but the beatmania IIDX home controllers (at least the US and Japanese KOCs; not sure about the KASC) come with an RCA jack intended to be used with a Drummania foot pedal to trigger the turntable. I imagine if beatmania III, which uses a foot pedal (where bm and bmIIDX do not), had gotten a home version, there would've been more functionality involved.

I'm sure there are also disabled-accessible controllers that use foot pedals as well. Point is, it's not a new concept; if you know which button controls the duck/hide/whatever action, then you could certainly wire in a a simple circuit-closing foot pedal to control that action.

[Steamflogger Boss]

So I recently got another Saturn. It's only outputting mono audio. I tried on tv speakers and into a receiver to standalone speakers. Just nothing on the right channel at all. The din is a bit gnarly but doesn't appear damaged. I tested multiple cables and all the cables were working properly with my other Saturn. At some point this Saturn was dicked with. The lid thinks it is shut even when it's open, the shell has some damage (near the side with the din and power) and there was a warranty void if removed sticker from a game store on it that was destroyed.

It's not worth shipping back and I've already been compensated but I'd love to get it working properly if possible. Playing Digital Pinball in mono is a very sad experience.

[vol.2]

So I recently got another Saturn. It's only outputting mono audio.

The first step would be to open it up and test continuity on all the audio wires to the connector. If you trace it back and get nothing, check the caps in the audio path.

[Chomolonzo]

I have an NTSC N64 modded with Tim Worthington's RGB kit, and while it works fine there's an unusual problem with it: the brightness level seems to flicker up and down constantly.

I've had it looked at by a very capable modder, but he's not sure what the issue is. I had a PAL system modded as well, and it also had the same issue. I had the RGB board on my NTSC system (the system I actually use) replaced and the wires shortened as much as possible, but while the problem was lessened considerably, it still exists. It's not exactly a massive problem by any stretch, but I was just wondering if anyone might know what the issue is.

[makar1]

I have an NTSC N64 modded with Tim Worthington's RGB kit, and while it works fine there's an unusual problem with it: the brightness level seems to flicker up and down constantly.

I've had it looked at by a very capable modder, but he's not sure what the issue is. I had a PAL system modded as well, and it also had the same issue. I had the RGB board on my NTSC system (the system I actually use) replaced and the wires shortened as much as possible, but while the problem was lessened considerably, it still exists. It's not exactly a massive problem by any stretch, but I was just wondering if anyone might know what the issue is.

You could try adding Borti's 3.3v regulator board to at least provide stable power to the RGB board.

[vol.2]

You could try adding Borti's 3.3v regulator board to at least provide stable power to the RGB board.

Tim's kit should come with a external regulator. Mine did anyway.

[makar1]

Tim's kit should come with a external regulator. Mine did anyway.

Where did you buy from? There's no mention of a regulator on Tim's shop or install guide.