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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 9:24 pm 


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Quote:
Are you playing the 50Hz version by mistake?


Lol turns out I was, I win the dumbass of the month award.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 5:10 am 


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What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 12:27 pm 


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theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


i usually see people use noctua fans for console replacement. they are quiet and reliable. doing a quick search, there was one YouTube video which seems to carry a warning about the procedure, but i didn't watch it. i would recommend checking out some of those video guides before starting or buying anything to see if you're comfortable with it.

edit:
also, the fan in an og xbox is and odd size (72mm) and the frame has a unique shape to enable mounting. if you do mod it, you will most likely have to cut holes in the new fan and maybe even in the interior frame of the xbox itself. (depending on what size fan you install)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 2:40 pm 



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theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.

Before you start looking for a replacement fan, I suggest oiling the existing one. I personally have been using this oil for a while now to oil up old, rattly fans for a few months now, and it works great. It also worked for the fan out of my v1.0 Xbox (although I had already swapped the fan out at that point).


If you'd still like to pursue a replacement fan, there really aren't any drop-in units, due to the custom shroud used by the console that has clearance for the HDD tray and has prongs that latch into the fan vent in the EM shield.

Any 70mm fan with a 3-pin connector will work fine (I personally bought this fan), as long as you 1) make sure that the fan is oriented for exhaust, not intake, and b) use some flush cuts (and safety glasses) to chop off the two plastic screw mounts towards the inside of the console so that the HDD tray will be able to fit over it.

Additionally, the cables on aftermarket fans are significantly longer than those of the stock fans, so you'll need to bundle the cable up and shove it somewhere that won't interfere with how the DVD-ROM or HDD trays fit together. Lastly, I recommend buying a pack of these rubber mounts (got them with the Noctua fan I put in my Dreamcast) and using two to secure the the top two mount holes on the fan and isolate the fan from the EM shield (orient the flat end towards the outside of the case).


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 5:56 pm 


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nmalinoski wrote:
theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.

Before you start looking for a replacement fan, I suggest oiling the existing one. I personally have been using this oil for a while now to oil up old, rattly fans for a few months now, and it works great. It also worked for the fan out of my v1.0 Xbox (although I had already swapped the fan out at that point).


If you'd still like to pursue a replacement fan, there really aren't any drop-in units, due to the custom shroud used by the console that has clearance for the HDD tray and has prongs that latch into the fan vent in the EM shield.

Any 70mm fan with a 3-pin connector will work fine (I personally bought this fan), as long as you 1) make sure that the fan is oriented for exhaust, not intake, and b) use some flush cuts (and safety glasses) to chop off the two plastic screw mounts towards the inside of the console so that the HDD tray will be able to fit over it.

Additionally, the cables on aftermarket fans are significantly longer than those of the stock fans, so you'll need to bundle the cable up and shove it somewhere that won't interfere with how the DVD-ROM or HDD trays fit together. Lastly, I recommend buying a pack of these rubber mounts (got them with the Noctua fan I put in my Dreamcast) and using two to secure the the top two mount holes on the fan and isolate the fan from the EM shield (orient the flat end towards the outside of the case).


I just realized that you're the person I was asking about burning a 240p test suite on the VGP site. Small world.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 1:18 am 


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Somewhere I have a stack of third-party custom coolers for GeForce video cards that were also said to be good for the original Xbox. I'll have to go have a look.

Still, nothing wrong with taking a look at cleaning up + repairing the original fan, or using a Noctua fan (which one, I wonder)?

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I wanted to get back to my LG OLED C8 + VHS discussion.

I took a look at the video connection issue today. I confirmed that the VHS deck I was using was working. For whatever reason, the C8's AV connector won't show a picture and the audio is very noisy. I've upgraded the machine to the latest (April 29th) firmware. Not picking up simple composite from the input dedicated to composite imput seems like a bug, but I'm not sure it would be worthwhile to try and pursue that further.

Now the question is: Hook up a second TV just dedicated to a VHS deck (lol) or get a cheap scaler box. I think I'll do a test run on a scaler instead. I don't think uneven wear is going to be an issue, will have to note to turn down the brightness a tad if it's set too high.

Also going to look into ripping some VHS tapes and getting some downsizing done on that front.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 1:49 am 


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Ed Oscuro wrote:
Somewhere I have a stack of third-party custom coolers for GeForce video cards that were also said to be good for the original Xbox. I'll have to go have a look.

Still, nothing wrong with taking a look at cleaning up + repairing the original fan, or using a Noctua fan (which one, I wonder)?

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I wanted to get back to my LG OLED C8 + VHS discussion.

I took a look at the video connection issue today. I confirmed that the VHS deck I was using was working. For whatever reason, the C8's AV connector won't show a picture and the audio is very noisy. I've upgraded the machine to the latest (April 29th) firmware. Not picking up simple composite from the input dedicated to composite imput seems like a bug, but I'm not sure it would be worthwhile to try and pursue that further.

Now the question is: Hook up a second TV just dedicated to a VHS deck (lol) or get a cheap scaler box. I think I'll do a test run on a scaler instead. I don't think uneven wear is going to be an issue, will have to note to turn down the brightness a tad if it's set too high.

Also going to look into ripping some VHS tapes and getting some downsizing done on that front.


VHS tapes have jittery sync. Add a video processor.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 1:56 am 


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I noticed that both tapes I tried (one prerecorded) had quite bad noisy audio, and I'm looking to clear that up too.

Is this something I can expect to still be a problem in a cheapo scaler if I don't get a dedicated video processor?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 2:47 am 


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Ed Oscuro wrote:
I noticed that both tapes I tried (one prerecorded) had quite bad noisy audio, and I'm looking to clear that up too.

Is this something I can expect to still be a problem in a cheapo scaler if I don't get a dedicated video processor?


It's hard to say. The tapes could be going bad. Magnetic tape media isn't aging well. I don't know what kind of shape the VCR is in, either.

Honestly, I'd find a VCR in good shape, clean up the VCR, clean up the tapes, feed composite to an old DVD recorder (use it as a comb filter), and feed a DVDO iScan vp50/50pro/Edge the svideo. Feed the audio straight through from the VCR to the DVDO and use the audio delay feature to sync it up. Feed the HDMI out to your capture device or your display.

If the tapes themselves aren't damaged, that will get you the about best results you could hope for.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 3:42 am 


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I'll look into the DVDO iScan. I think I'm pretty well set on the other fronts - this is a fairly lightly used VHS / DVD combo player with component out by Toshiba, probably early 2000s make, and the tapes weren't too thrashed. I think the sync simply isn't up to the C8 OLED's liking when it comes to sync.

Edit: Yikes, the DVDO devices are pretty expensive.

I'm also going to start digitizing some tapes to take care of that other problem. It's been so long since I last did it that my old DataVideo thing probably isn't going to cut it, as it probably used FireWire. Been needing a good capture device anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 3:38 pm 



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Dochartaigh wrote:
Bassa-Bassa wrote:
Sorry if this has been explained already, but is there a final word on how TTL spec cables affect Trinitron SCART TV sets? Is the additional wear something to worry about?

Asking because I'm not sure about thefoo.83's Saturn TTL 5V cables sold before the current revision being fine for a TV (picture quality is excellent, though).


You want to attenuate it with the proper resistor. Too high voltage can cause wear over time, and most consumer sets are looking for something like ~0.7vpp instead of 5 TTL level sync.


Thanks for the reply. thefoo.83 admitted that he had been building his Saturn cables without being aware of the potential issue here, though he also said at the same time that I shouldn't be concerned as the cables wouldn't cause any harm no matter the TV set. I don't have the means to add the proper resistor to the cables I got from him, so more opinions from experts on the matter would still be welcome.

Anybody sent his cables back to thefoo.83 or got a refund after knowing about this, anyway?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 9:24 pm 


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how's n64 performance on a wii? it's unplayable on a raspberry pi for the most part. can anyone vouch for decent performance of, say, resident evil 2 running with parallel 64 on wii retroarch?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 9:32 pm 


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Whoa, slow down there. There's no N64 core in RetroArch Wii, let alone ParaLLEl.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 11:32 pm 


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Fwiw there are a lot of guys who digitize video. If you've got under like 200 tapes, it's usually cheaper (and with better quality) to use their services. They're the ones who will spend $500 on a good vcr to get the most out of the tape.

Many are over at digitalfaq.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 11:37 pm 



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vol.2 wrote:
how's n64 performance on a wii? it's unplayable on a raspberry pi for the most part. can anyone vouch for decent performance of, say, resident evil 2 running with parallel 64 on wii retroarch?


Yeah the Wii is not what you want for N64 emulation, unless we're talking about the titles released for the Virtual Console. Those run great and IMO Nintendo's upscaling to 480i really does the N64 graphics a big favor. I don't know if there ever was a way to inject other N64 games into the emulators wrapping the VC titles, but that would be another way. I doubt a game like RE2 would ever work though.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 12:07 am 


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Extrems wrote:
Whoa, slow down there. There's no N64 core in RetroArch Wii, let alone ParaLLEl.


Whoops. I didn't realize that it wasn't available for the wii. I've just started messing with retroarch. Thanks for the heads-up. :)

So... what's the current best option for emulating N64 onto a 15Khz CRT?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 3:43 am 



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How can I use other controllers on PC engine? I viewed something call retropad but adapters needed. Can I purchase adapters?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 3:43 am 



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vol.2 wrote:
Extrems wrote:
Whoa, slow down there. There's no N64 core in RetroArch Wii, let alone ParaLLEl.


Whoops. I didn't realize that it wasn't available for the wii. I've just started messing with retroarch. Thanks for the heads-up. :)

So... what's the current best option for emulating N64 onto a 15Khz CRT?

Fair warning that I have a bias towards original hardware, but I'm not sure there is any good option for emulating N64 on a 15kHz CRT. I think the major problem is that consoles that could output the games in 240p lack the power to emulate the N64, and those that do have the power to emulate the N64 lack the ability to output 240p. You could go the PC route, but you would need a GPU capable of outputting S-Video and/or YPbPr, and then you would need old drivers and/or specialist software to get the GPU to output in 240p or 480i, assuming it's even possible to do that in the first place.

I think your best bet for N64 games on a CRT (and what I have set up) is a real N64 with the Expansion Pak and an EverDrive 64. Should be the best of both worlds--you get a huge game selection at your fingertips, but without the emulation errors (Looking at you, Top Gear Rally audio), and you get to use original controllers and peripherals. You can get analogue RGB and YPbPr with one of borti's N64RGB Advanced boards, and, not that it'll help you get it working on a CRT, but you can get scaled/framerate-converted HDMI output with an UltraHDMI.

Main downside is the cost. N64s with decent controllers and original PSUs are readily-available. If you go S-Video, you just need a good, quality cable (I believe Retro-Access sells good ones on request). N64RGB Advanced boards are not yet available, and I don't know what they'll be priced at, plus the cost of installation and shipping, and you'll have to factor in the cost of the cable, be it SCART for RGBS output, or some kind of custom component cable if you wire up YPbPr. UltraHDMI is similar, though likely the most expensive--you can expect to pay between $135 and $150 for the kit, plus more for installation and shipping.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 7:30 pm 


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nmalinoski wrote:
vol.2 wrote:
Extrems wrote:
Whoa, slow down there. There's no N64 core in RetroArch Wii, let alone ParaLLEl.


Whoops. I didn't realize that it wasn't available for the wii. I've just started messing with retroarch. Thanks for the heads-up. :)

So... what's the current best option for emulating N64 onto a 15Khz CRT?

Fair warning that I have a bias towards original hardware, but I'm not sure there is any good option for emulating N64 on a 15kHz CRT. I think the major problem is that consoles that could output the games in 240p lack the power to emulate the N64, and those that do have the power to emulate the N64 lack the ability to output 240p. You could go the PC route, but you would need a GPU capable of outputting S-Video and/or YPbPr, and then you would need old drivers and/or specialist software to get the GPU to output in 240p or 480i, assuming it's even possible to do that in the first place.

I think your best bet for N64 games on a CRT (and what I have set up) is a real N64 with the Expansion Pak and an EverDrive 64. Should be the best of both worlds--you get a huge game selection at your fingertips, but without the emulation errors (Looking at you, Top Gear Rally audio), and you get to use original controllers and peripherals. You can get analogue RGB and YPbPr with one of borti's N64RGB Advanced boards, and, not that it'll help you get it working on a CRT, but you can get scaled/framerate-converted HDMI output with an UltraHDMI.

Main downside is the cost. N64s with decent controllers and original PSUs are readily-available. If you go S-Video, you just need a good, quality cable (I believe Retro-Access sells good ones on request). N64RGB Advanced boards are not yet available, and I don't know what they'll be priced at, plus the cost of installation and shipping, and you'll have to factor in the cost of the cable, be it SCART for RGBS output, or some kind of custom component cable if you wire up YPbPr. UltraHDMI is similar, though likely the most expensive--you can expect to pay between $135 and $150 for the kit, plus more for installation and shipping.


Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, I was hoping against hopes it wasn't the case. I want to do either the wii dual or the n64 adavance, but they are both going to be like $150 and take a bit to install, so I was trying to placate myself by finding an N64 emu solution while I play with a wii. I've been playing a bunch of wii/GC stuff recently more than N64, so it's just kinda the way I was leaning. IAC, I have plenty of the OG hardware. I can just use my s-video cable from the n64 for now, and the blur and stuff isn't really so bad on a crt anyway. However, I do really love the shots I've seen of all the blur and AA removed will def get that going at some point.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 5:18 am 


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theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


I can't vouch for how safe it is in terms of thermal performance, but the Noctua NF-A6x25 can be installed in an OG Xbox without having to cut anything.

kruuth wrote:
How can I use other controllers on PC engine? I viewed something call retropad but adapters needed. Can I purchase adapters?


I've used Brook's adapter to play the PC-Engine using a PS3 controller. It has worked fine for me, but if the controller doesn't have much battery left in it you have to power the adapter as well (at least in my case, maybe it depends on the PSU?). If you use it wirelessly then I haven't had a single issue. No 3 or 6 button layout support on the PC-Engine for now though.

I also have a question!

I've successfully installed a triple bypass on a MD2 VA0 and the video and sound are much much better, but I'm noticing some kind of shimmering on some elements (https://photos.app.goo.gl/vhmbzP5Ld2uoTPvp7). I'm getting RGB from the first vias and sync from the encoder's input side. I guess it might be "RAM noise"? Maybe I should have lifted the pins from the VDP, but they look a bit too small for my tools.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 5:44 am 



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hugo19941994 wrote:
theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


I can't vouch for how safe it is in terms of thermal performance, but the Noctua NF-A6x25 can be installed in an OG Xbox without having to cut anything.

That Noctua probably fits without cutting anything because it's the wrong size; the Xbox was designed to accommodate a 70mm fan; installing a 60mm fan is going to mean gaps on the sides that might interfere with or defeat the desired/expected airflow, plus you'll have to figure out some other way to keep it secured in the case.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2019 7:21 am 


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nmalinoski wrote:
That Noctua probably fits without cutting anything because it's the wrong size; the Xbox was designed to accommodate a 70mm fan; installing a 60mm fan is going to mean gaps on the sides that might interfere with or defeat the desired/expected airflow, plus you'll have to figure out some other way to keep it secured in the case.


Yes, that's what I was implying. It's smaller so you don't have to cut anything and it's fairly easy to put in place with the included rubber mounts. However I don't know if it's airflow is sufficient. Some more info: https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php ... stock-fan/


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2019 2:44 am 


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You may be able to work from the listed CFM if you punch in the part number of the original fan online. I've had surprising success doing that for the PS2; people tended to write these things down.

Some discussion of the Noctua 70mm installation procedure here: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/c ... _xbox_fan/


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 12:11 pm 



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Can there be an adapter to command pc engine then with NES controllers? I've lots of them.

hugo19941994 wrote:
theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


I can't vouch for how safe it is in terms of thermal performance, but the Noctua NF-A6x25 can be installed in an OG Xbox without having to cut anything.

kruuth wrote:
How can I use other controllers on PC engine? I viewed something call retropad but adapters needed. Can I purchase adapters?


I've used Brook's adapter to play the PC-Engine using a PS3 controller. It has worked fine for me, but if the controller doesn't have much battery left in it you have to power the adapter as well (at least in my case, maybe it depends on the PSU?). If you use it wirelessly then I haven't had a single issue. No 3 or 6 button layout support on the PC-Engine for now though.

I also have a question!

I've successfully installed a triple bypass on a MD2 VA0 and the video and sound are much much better, but I'm noticing some kind of shimmering on some elements (https://photos.app.goo.gl/vhmbzP5Ld2uoTPvp7). I'm getting RGB from the first vias and sync from the encoder's input side. I guess it might be "RAM noise"? Maybe I should have lifted the pins from the VDP, but they look a bit too small for my tools.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2019 1:51 pm 


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nmalinoski wrote:
hugo19941994 wrote:
theclaw wrote:
What's the best drop in fan replacement for an original Xbox? It's too loud!
I have no cutting or soldering ability to speak of.


I can't vouch for how safe it is in terms of thermal performance, but the Noctua NF-A6x25 can be installed in an OG Xbox without having to cut anything.

That Noctua probably fits without cutting anything because it's the wrong size; the Xbox was designed to accommodate a 70mm fan; installing a 60mm fan is going to mean gaps on the sides that might interfere with or defeat the desired/expected airflow, plus you'll have to figure out some other way to keep it secured in the case.


If one were to get crafty about it, I could see a making a shroud to ensure proper suction and include some way to secure it. With a dismantled Xbox, a micrometer, Autodesk and a 3d printer. Something like that would run ehhhh, $20 printed in Hp multijet fusion and shipped from sculpteo. Just make sure the walls are 2mm thick at least.
Of course, this is all "the extra mile." :)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 9:47 am 


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I'm looking for some help in getting 240p out of the 360. Spent the last few days on Fudoh's Scanlines Demystified page and googling around, but I thought I'd check in here to get some advice on my specific setup goal.

I specifically want to hook my 360 up to my PVM 20M2U to play the Cave ports and Raiden Fighters Aces. I don't need any other functionality out of the device, but if it can do more for a similar cost thats great too. I think (hope) an Extron RGB would suffice here, since that seems like it would save me a bunch of money. Is there a list of Extron RGB units that would work for this? I searched around on ebay and there are a ton of devices under this name.

I'm also not positive what else I'd need other than that unit and VGA out of the 360. I've read that I might need a sync stripper and/or sync combiner? Not sure how/where to buy these either, if I do end up needing them. Was also curious if there was a way to just use Component out of the 360 for this to avoid the sync problems altogether, since the quality difference between the two isn't that bad to me, but I assume the RGB units only output RGB and thus I may as well just use VGA.

Hopefully this makes sense, I'm fairly new to the world of RGB and sync and all that, just got the PVM and have just been using Component so far, so this is my first venture into these waters, and its a bit overwhelming :oops:
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 10:20 am 


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The RGB interface "tricks" only works well on games that offer proper unfiltered linedoubling (Raiden Fighters, Death Smiles, Futari, ESPGaludaII, MMP, Delta Zeal). The high-res only Cave titles don't look so good this way. And yes, you can input and output component into these interfaces. No problem - and it's even way easier to connect them this way compared to RGB, since your 360 won't output 15khz through the VGA cable, so you'd indeed need a Scart cable with sync cleaner....

For better 240p conversion, look here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63226&hilit=corio


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 10:51 am 


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Fudoh wrote:
The RGB interface "tricks" only works well on games that offer proper unfiltered linedoubling (Raiden Fighters, Death Smiles, Futari, ESPGaludaII, MMP, Delta Zeal). The high-res only Cave titles don't look so good this way. And yes, you can input and output component into these interfaces. No problem - and it's even way easier to connect them this way compared to RGB, since your 360 won't output 15khz through the VGA cable, so you'd indeed need a Scart cable with sync cleaner....

For better 240p conversion, look here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63226&hilit=corio


Thats a shame that the RGB units don't work well with the high-res games. The C2 units do look promising, but the prices on confirmed-working units on ebay is pretty high, I think maybe higher than a Genius II would cost? I do see an Emotia on ebay for around $300 as well, so I'm guessing thats the price ballpark I'd be in to get 240p looking good with the high-res games.

For how cheap the RGB units seem to be, I'm tempted to just start with that. Most of my favorites would still work well with it, and since I could just run Component, it'd let me play those while learning a bit more about all these devices and such. I think if I then upgrade to an Emotia later I could still use the RGB unit to fix the line combining the Emotia does, if I understood your write-up correctly.

Any advice on what to look for in the Extron RGB units? Either model numbers or certain specs would help, there seem to be a ton and I imagine they don't all work.

Appreciate the help as always Fudoh :)
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 11:03 am 


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Quote:
The C2 units do look promising, but the prices on confirmed-working units on ebay is pretty high

yeah, it's easy to overpay for these. Only a few months back it wasn't too hard to find something under $100.

Quote:
Any advice on what to look for in the Extron RGB units?

most will work fine. Honestly I have never figured out why some models won't work - I would imagine that in the end it depends on the monitor. You could go for something confirmed working like a 580.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143272213027

To input component into the HD15 connector, you need a HD15 to RCA breakout cable or adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/310799037608


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2019 11:46 am 


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Fudoh wrote:
You could go for something confirmed working like a 580.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143272213027

To input component into the HD15 connector, you need a HD15 to RCA breakout cable or adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/310799037608


Perfect! I see the 190 on ebay for quite cheap too, and I think those are supposed to work just as well? If so, I might shoot for one of those, it looks a little less bulky and costs about half as much. If those aren't confirmed I'll just go with the 580.

So the setup would just be 360 Component > HD15 to RCA > Extron RGB with DDSP dip set on > 3 Male-to-Male BNCs > PVM?

I imagine this will still be an improvement for the high-res games over pure 480i too, even if they don't look perfect. I wonder if this could also work on a PS2 via Component for some of the 480i titles that don't work well with patching for 240p (Thinking stuff like Dragon Blaze, Third Strike, etc).

Thanks again Fudoh, you're a lifesaver.
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