Questions that do not deserve a thread

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rama
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by rama »

DJ Kevgeez:
Put your image on imgur.com (it's free and easy), then paste the link to it here.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

BuckoA51 wrote:Yes, the SNES sync jitter won't be cured by a sync strike.
thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?
fernan1234
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by fernan1234 »

vol.2 wrote:thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?
Do you mean that the top portion of the screen bends? If so, this is known as flagging and is resolved either by turning on "VCR Mode" in the settings of certain BVM/PVM models, or by using an Extron RGB unit with a "SERR" switch to remove serration pulses from the sync signal.
There may be other solutions but these two are the most commonly known.
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

vol.2 wrote:
BuckoA51 wrote:Yes, the SNES sync jitter won't be cured by a sync strike.
thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?
If you're interested in fixing the jitter problems to avoid getting another video processor, the NESRGB 2.x revision has dejitter built-in, and there is now a combination RGB bypass/dejitter board for the SNES.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

fernan1234 wrote:
vol.2 wrote:thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?
Do you mean that the top portion of the screen bends? If so, this is known as flagging and is resolved either by turning on "VCR Mode" in the settings of certain BVM/PVM models, or by using an Extron RGB unit with a "SERR" switch to remove serration pulses from the sync signal.
There may be other solutions but these two are the most commonly known.
It's an older PVM without a "vcr mode". The SERR dip on the 203 RXI has no effect at all. It only happens when I go through the Extron with an NES or SNES. I can go directly into the PVM without flagging, but I want the centering ability of the Extron. This has been boggling my mind for like 4 years. Perhaps my 203 SERR switch function is just broken.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

nmalinoski wrote:
vol.2 wrote:
BuckoA51 wrote:Yes, the SNES sync jitter won't be cured by a sync strike.
thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?
If you're interested in fixing the jitter problems to avoid getting another video processor, the NESRGB 2.x revision has dejitter built-in, and there is now a combination RGB bypass/dejitter board for the SNES.
Thanks for the info. This is awesome. :D I will go for that SNES mod, but I already have a 1.X NESRGB installed and working, so I'll have to get the de jitter kit if I want that for the NES.
fernan1234
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by fernan1234 »

vol.2 wrote:It's an older PVM without a "vcr mode". The SERR dip on the 203 RXI has no effect at all. It only happens when I go through the Extron with an NES or SNES. I can go directly into the PVM without flagging, but I want the centering ability of the Extron. This has been boggling my mind for like 4 years. Perhaps my 203 SERR switch function is just broken.
I would try switching between ADSP and DDSP to see if that makes a difference.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

vol.2 wrote:Thanks for the info. This is awesome. :D I will go for that SNES mod, but I already have a 1.X NESRGB installed and working, so I'll have to get the de jitter kit if I want that for the NES.
What's nice is that the NESRGB involves socketing normally-soldered-in components for ease of upgrade and maintenance.

If you've got a toploader (PPU socketed), you can pick up a NESRGB 2.x, do some minor assembly with a soldering iron, swap over the PPU, and resolder the wires. Even easier if you wired in quick-disconnects so the NESRGB wasn't tethered to the NES.

If you have a frontloader (PPU soldered) and you don't want to do any desoldering, you could remove your 1.x board and mail it and the 2.x kit to an installer for assembly and transferring the PPU, which, I imagine, would be cheaper and less involved than sending your console and having the installer do everything.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

fernan1234 wrote:
vol.2 wrote:It's an older PVM without a "vcr mode". The SERR dip on the 203 RXI has no effect at all. It only happens when I go through the Extron with an NES or SNES. I can go directly into the PVM without flagging, but I want the centering ability of the Extron. This has been boggling my mind for like 4 years. Perhaps my 203 SERR switch function is just broken.
I would try switching between ADSP and DDSP to see if that makes a difference.
it makes a difference for the SNES, but the ADSP is what allows use of the centering controls, so it would defeat the purpose.

for the NESRGB>Sync Strike switching between ADSP and DDSP makes no difference
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

Einzelherz wrote:Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?
viewtopic.php?p=1286802#p1286802

Here is a long explanation :P
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

Einzelherz wrote:Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?
Paraphrasing the first post in the NES/SNES 240p dejitter mod thread, the last pre-render scanline (line 14) before the first visible scanline (15) gets cut short every other frame. That leads to inconsistent frame timing, which modern equipment generally does not like (particularly 1080p displays); and it offsets the first visible scanline by 1 pixel every other frame, causing (what I'm interpreting to be) some horizontal jitter/shimmering.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

nmalinoski wrote:
Einzelherz wrote:Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?
Paraphrasing the first post in the NES/SNES 240p dejitter mod thread, the last pre-render scanline (line 14) before the first visible scanline (15) gets cut short every other frame. That leads to inconsistent frame timing, which modern equipment generally does not like (particularly 1080p displays); and it offsets the first visible scanline by 1 pixel every other frame, causing (what I'm interpreting to be) some horizontal jitter/shimmering.
I can definitely see the shimmer if I hookup my NESRGB to my projector. there's like a squiggly side to side shimmer at certain spots. nice to have an explanation for it
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

Sega Saturn Phoebe order window was open today (for literally about 45 seconds...) but I think my order for a Type-2 Phoebe (which I choose randomly TBH) went through. Can anybody confirm the below is a Type-2 Saturn? Power looks ever so slightly different, but it has the 21-pin cable, and the rest seems to match this pages description (CD Drive cable is unplugged FYI):

Image

Only problem I have with this one is the voltage on the controller port is a little low (want to say ~2.x or 3v instead of 5v) so I can't use the analog controller, or a 4-controller hub which need the full 5 volts. Any thoughts on how to fix that? Was told I need to trace back from the controller's port and see where the voltage drops then replace that component? Where do I stick the + and - probes from my multimeter? Do I just stick my multimeter's negative probe on the negative power line, then use the positive and start probing around the controller port area? (I've never really diagnosed much...usually just replace caps like I tried on this one first - every one but the ones on the power board was replaced - didn't have any caps that large on-hand).

Last, I take it I just wait for a PayPal email from the GDEMI guy then pay him?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Going to be buying a PC Engine soon and I've never had the opportunity to use one.

Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?

If it's not that great what are some recommended options? The Hori Commander looks like it has a D-Pad similar to an NES'. There are some 3 button and 6 button options available that all look to have about the same D-Pad. Maybe there are some adapters that would let me use a Genesis 6-button or Saturn pad (I found a retrorgb post about a 3-button Genesis to PC Engine adapter)?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

bobrocks95 wrote:Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?
I have two of the white/original PC Engine/Japan controllers and either I got two duds or I REALLY don't care for them. The US TG16 version controllers seem to be just fine. Really like the PC Engine Avenue Pad 3 ones the best from what I've tried so far.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by fernan1234 »

The PCE/CoreGrafx controller pad is pretty good IMO. They're pretty easy to open up and clean for better performance.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FBX »

Question:

Should we start a "Questions that deserve a thread" thread?
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ApolloBoy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ApolloBoy »

bobrocks95 wrote:I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad
Which 3-button Genesis pad?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

ApolloBoy wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad
Which 3-button Genesis pad?
Are they different? The OEM one that ships with the US Genesis 2 is my frame of reference, with the white color accents.
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Xyga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Xyga »

I think it was Fudoh once who mentioned some manufactured variant had a steel ball instead of hard plastic for the d-pad center.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

bobrocks95 wrote:Going to be buying a PC Engine soon and I've never had the opportunity to use one.

Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?

If it's not that great what are some recommended options? The Hori Commander looks like it has a D-Pad similar to an NES'. There are some 3 button and 6 button options available that all look to have about the same D-Pad. Maybe there are some adapters that would let me use a Genesis 6-button or Saturn pad (I found a retrorgb post about a 3-button Genesis to PC Engine adapter)?

i grew up playing OG turbo grafix and pc engine. personally, i hated the controllers. wish i had the foresight to buy a replacement one, but it never crossed my mind at the time.
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Fudoh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

the PCE dpad is better than it looks. Solid controller. And if you don't like it, Tototek always has Playstation to PCE controller adapters available for under $25.

Or - if you like to spend a little more money: I adore the Micomsoft XE-1 controller series in general and its XE-1 HE PRO PC Engine version with rotatable buttons and integrated 5-Player adapter.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

There are later Genesis 3 button controllers that use the same (or at least nearly) d pad as what the Saturn uses. They are much smoother to roll than the original. Afaik the originals use the steel ball whereas the later ones have a plastic cross inside, but don't quote me on that.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

Are there any occasional eBay sellers on here? Does PayPal ALWAYS hold your funds for "up to 21 days"?

I've sold about a grand worth of stuff in the last week, and that's a lot of money to me, and I'm kinda getting nervous that I'm sending out all these packages....then I'm left at the mercy of PayPal to decide if they actually release my money or not.

A online chat eBay customer service person told me the funds will be released after the package(s) are marked as delivered. Has anybody found that to be true? (they couldn't even cite me where their rules say that when I pressed them on the matter...)
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by hugo19941994 »

I've just installed DB Electronics' triple bypass in a Japanese VA1 MD2 (only the video part for now), and there's something wrong with the blue channel:

Image

I tried installing it on the underside of the MD2 motherboard and I ended up permanently bridging the blue and 5V pin on the triple bypass' PCB... twice. I then proceeded to remove the original MD2's DIN9 port and using a new one soldering it directly to the triple bypass. But now it looks like there's something wrong with the blue channel. I'm getting the blue from the first possible via (haven't tried using a VDP leg directly).

Could the VDP be fried? Anything obvious i'm missing? I've resoldered the resistors in the triple bypass PCB a few times and the results are always the same

EDIT: I think there's something wrong with the VDP. At first the blue color is a little dim, but not that much. After a while though the console starts heating up a bit and the blue starts to dissapear. I ended up buying a new one in eBay
Last edited by hugo19941994 on Sun May 05, 2019 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
edd247
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by edd247 »

Hi guys, I installed the NESRGB 2.0 board into my twin famicom. I wired up the 8 pin din so I can use a neo geo scart cable. My question is, since the 2.0 board removed the caps on the rgb lines, do I need to add the caps to the scart cable?
Lord of Pirates
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Lord of Pirates »

Does anyone know of a good composite capture card (external or internal)?

Edit: I want to fiddle with AviSynth so as little processing as possible by the capture device is preferable unless there's one out there with an excellent comb filter and deinterlacing.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

Ati tv wonder 600 usb is well recommended by the VHS transfer guys. The pci versions are good, too. But they are winXP era so might not play well with your system. I use it as an hdtv tuner cause DVRing OTA stuff is oddly difficult to do.
Lord of Pirates
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Lord of Pirates »

Einzelherz wrote:Ati tv wonder 600 usb is well recommended by the VHS transfer guys. The pci versions are good, too. But they are winXP era so might not play well with your system. I use it as an hdtv tuner cause DVRing OTA stuff is oddly difficult to do.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a couple XP PCs still hanging around so that won't be an issue for me.

Do you know if there are any major differences between the 550 or 650/HD?
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