I'm not saying it's the only way - but definitely a reliable way of avoiding this kind of high frequency interference is to get the signal away from the PC while it is still digital (and the path I have taken). If your motherboard has optical out you can also use that with an external DAC.Steven wrote:So basically I should do audio through USB, right?
Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason...Kez wrote:I'm not saying it's the only way - but definitely a reliable way of avoiding this kind of high frequency interference is to get the signal away from the PC while it is still digital (and the path I have taken). If your motherboard has optical out you can also use that with an external DAC.Steven wrote:So basically I should do audio through USB, right?
I ordered this thingy
https://www.amazon.co.jp//dp/B07RT2YGF8/
a few seconds before I realized that I could try the PS5 controller, but I guess I can do this for now.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
All you did was bypass a faulty mobo stereo connector by using USB...Steven wrote: I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason...
I ordered this thingy
https://www.amazon.co.jp//dp/B07RT2YGF8/
a few seconds before I realized that I could try the PS5 controller, but I guess I can do this for now.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Did I say otherwise? My point is that it's a PS5 controller, which was likely not intended for use in this fashion on a computer, especially since PlayStation controllers historically do not work on PC at all without some 3rd party programs/drivers, so it is highly surprising that this would work at all.ldeveraux wrote:All you did was bypass a faulty mobo stereo connector by using USB...Steven wrote: I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason...
I ordered this thingy
https://www.amazon.co.jp//dp/B07RT2YGF8/
a few seconds before I realized that I could try the PS5 controller, but I guess I can do this for now.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Good thinking! Makes sense that it would prevent the interference but definitely would not have occurred to me. Seems like the driver support for PS5 controllers is pretty good then!Steven wrote:I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason..
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I am extremely surprised that it works. Never thought I would use this controller like this, but it works and it's not like I have a PS5 to use it on (I bought it just to try Death Stranding Director's Cut on PC, so it just kind of collects dust now that I'm done with the game), so I'll just do this until that cable I bought gets here. I did notice that the PS5 controller does have a little bit of noise on occasion in the back USB ports, but it seemed fine in the front. Hopefully that cable has no noise at all.Kez wrote:Good thinking! Makes sense that it would prevent the interference but definitely would not have occurred to me. Seems like the driver support for PS5 controllers is pretty good then!Steven wrote:I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason..
I just tested with the PS4 controller, and as expected, it doesn't work. Interesting that the PS5 controller works at all.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I just bought a Kramer VP-435 scaler from ebay for £35 shipped. Has anyone used one of these and if so how did it go?
The only consoles ill use it for is a PS2 and a Dreamcast, quite possibly GameCube when i get one..
Cheers
The only consoles ill use it for is a PS2 and a Dreamcast, quite possibly GameCube when i get one..
Cheers
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
http://www.firebrandx.com/triads.html
I have the International 9V 2.5A Triad PSU (Triad WSX090-2500-R).
For Mega Drive 2 (PAL, I'm assuming all MD2/Genesis 2s are same from that page) I need a 2.1mm to 1.7mm, will this one work:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263225458704
I know there's a recommended one on that page but its a US based store so shipping + tax etc. Thanks.
I have the International 9V 2.5A Triad PSU (Triad WSX090-2500-R).
For Mega Drive 2 (PAL, I'm assuming all MD2/Genesis 2s are same from that page) I need a 2.1mm to 1.7mm, will this one work:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263225458704
I know there's a recommended one on that page but its a US based store so shipping + tax etc. Thanks.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The outer diameter in your eBay link (4.0mm) is too small. I think you want one more like this (4.8mm): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383468228003AaronSR wrote:http://www.firebrandx.com/triads.html
I have the International 9V 2.5A Triad PSU (Triad WSX090-2500-R).
For Mega Drive 2 (PAL, I'm assuming all MD2/Genesis 2s are same from that page) I need a 2.1mm to 1.7mm, will this one work:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263225458704
I know there's a recommended one on that page but its a US based store so shipping + tax etc. Thanks.
Edit: I forgot to mention, since you have a center-negative Triad, and the Mega Drive 2 is center-positive, you will also need a polarity adapter like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351917939728
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Einzelherz
- Posts: 1279
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
All of this sounds to me like you have a bad ground somewhere on the motherboard. Have you gone in and reseated the mobo and its standoffs?Steven wrote:I am extremely surprised that it works. Never thought I would use this controller like this, but it works and it's not like I have a PS5 to use it on (I bought it just to try Death Stranding Director's Cut on PC, so it just kind of collects dust now that I'm done with the game), so I'll just do this until that cable I bought gets here. I did notice that the PS5 controller does have a little bit of noise on occasion in the back USB ports, but it seemed fine in the front. Hopefully that cable has no noise at all.Kez wrote:Good thinking! Makes sense that it would prevent the interference but definitely would not have occurred to me. Seems like the driver support for PS5 controllers is pretty good then!Steven wrote:I just found a truly stupid solution to this, and I can't believe it actually works: I plugged my PS5 controller into my computer and plugged my headphones into the PS5 controller and it's perfect. I knew I bought this controller for a reason..
I just tested with the PS4 controller, and as expected, it doesn't work. Interesting that the PS5 controller works at all.
Also I've found the PS5 controller to be great on the PC, personally. Using Steam to force its compatibility with all my non-steam games has been nearly perfect.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I want to ask about bob deinterlacing and how to differentiate between interlaced sync signals vs progressive ones.
I've seen hsync diagrams and vsync diagrams of 480i but still couldn't understand how the monitor differs between it and regular progressive ones...
first ever hsync is drawing line 1, 2nd hsync is drawing line 3 since it is top field... but why won't it be line 2 like progressive material? how does it know?
then, if so, how to do bob deinterlacing vs hsync signals? I mean if we have line 1 at hsync1, then line 1 again at hsync2 but hsync2 is supposed to be for line 3.
thanks!
I've seen hsync diagrams and vsync diagrams of 480i but still couldn't understand how the monitor differs between it and regular progressive ones...
first ever hsync is drawing line 1, 2nd hsync is drawing line 3 since it is top field... but why won't it be line 2 like progressive material? how does it know?
then, if so, how to do bob deinterlacing vs hsync signals? I mean if we have line 1 at hsync1, then line 1 again at hsync2 but hsync2 is supposed to be for line 3.
thanks!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
about RGBHV conversion to YPbPr, it needs sync combining. I see lots of circuits especially using NAND or XNOR gates to do it... but people say these circuits are not perfect and cause problems.
can anyone kindly explain to me what are these problems? to what degree is their effect on playback?
can anyone kindly explain to me what are these problems? to what degree is their effect on playback?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Is there a cheap composite or s-video to hdmi solution that's actually recommended? It doesn't have to be stellar, just looking for the best of the category.
Also is there an s-video cable recommended for N64?
Also is there an s-video cable recommended for N64?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
A good cheap option is something like the Kramer vp-724xl. It has two s-video inputs and can scale up to 1080p with really nice results. It's vga output only so you'd also need a vga to hdmi converter but those are cheap too.Smashbro29 wrote:Is there a cheap composite or s-video to hdmi solution that's actually recommended? It doesn't have to be stellar, just looking for the best of the category.
Also is there an s-video cable recommended for N64?
Other options are something like the DVDO iScan Plus or Pro, also would need a vga to hdmi converter.
I use some cheap Gam3Gear s-video cables on my N64 and a crt tv and it looks great. Some reviews mention checkerboarding but I don't see any with mine.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The RetroTink 2X mini would probably be best for video games, but it's out of stock right now: https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/2x-mini
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Konsolkongen
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- Location: Denmark
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Can you take a quiet fan from a 5000X PS2 and use it in a 3500X?
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Konsolkongen
- Posts: 2315
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
You can, but it's not a drop-in replacement. Connecter is the same though and both are 7V.Konsolkongen wrote:Can you take a quiet fan from a 5000X PS2 and use it in a 3500X?
I transplanted a 35001 into a broken 50004 shell in much better condition and kept the newer fan. Case did require some minor cuts to fit the older hardware but it turned out super clean, and not at all visible from the outside.
I also found a compatible PAL PSU from a 39004 model
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Oh nice, I wanted to do the same (5000x fan in a 3500x) but just not got around to it! Did you take any pics?Konsolkongen wrote:You can, but it's not a drop-in replacement. Connecter is the same though and both are 7V.Konsolkongen wrote:Can you take a quiet fan from a 5000X PS2 and use it in a 3500X?
I transplanted a 35001 into a broken 50004 shell in much better condition and kept the newer fan. Case did require some minor cuts to fit the older hardware but it turned out super clean, and not at all visible from the outside.
I also found a compatible PAL PSU from a 39004 model
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Konsolkongen
- Posts: 2315
- Joined: Fri May 16, 2008 8:28 pm
- Location: Denmark
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
No sorry. I can open it up when I get back home.
The most difficult part was fitting the power and eject buttons as they are separate on the 3500X unlike the 5000X where they are attached to the DVD drive.
There are also people who sell custom mounts that fits Noctua fans. It doesn’t look great, but it’s likely quieter than the 5000X fan
https://www.amazon.com/TPO-Playstation- ... B0854FJ4RR
The most difficult part was fitting the power and eject buttons as they are separate on the 3500X unlike the 5000X where they are attached to the DVD drive.
There are also people who sell custom mounts that fits Noctua fans. It doesn’t look great, but it’s likely quieter than the 5000X fan
https://www.amazon.com/TPO-Playstation- ... B0854FJ4RR
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for the info, yeah I agree not a fan of the noctua mod..
Pics would be appreciated but no worries if you don't want to open the PS2 up again
Pics would be appreciated but no worries if you don't want to open the PS2 up again
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Konsolkongen
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- Location: Denmark
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Here are some pictures. I didn't want to take it all the way apart, but I hope it still makes sense.
Every part of the outer case is from the 5000X model, including the fan mount. This part is a little bit different than the mount on the 3500X. Some minor cuts had to be made near the DVD drive. Not able to properly show this in my picture unfortunately.
Normally you would screw down this part with two screws but they no longer align so I just used a few drops of hotglue. Notice that I avoided filling the hole on the left side of the fan, as this is still used to screw the case together. I made no cuts in the fan itself, only the plastic mounting piece.
https://imgur.com/QvyFhvm
The USB/S400 sticker from 3500X was removed using my hotair station at 120 degree celcius and low air pressure. I was carefull not to keep it at one spot for long as that could damage the texture of the plastic. This wasn't easy to remove. I had to use a spudger from the back to apply pressure. You can see that there is a slight bend at the corner. This picuture shows it at the worst angle. It's not really noticeable IRL
https://imgur.com/jKZ6pW6
You can just make out the power supply through the ventholes. Notice that it is flipped so the PCB sits much closer to the bottom of the case. A long plastic post had to be cut to 1-2mm in length to make room for this. No photo of that, but I think it should be pretty obvious. This is all the modification needed on the bottom part of the case. It already has the hole for the S400 port.
Top part of the case is the most difficult because the buttons are separate on the 3500X and clicks into place in the corner of the case, attached by a long ribbon cable. This is a super dumb design choice and the later models corrected this by just sticking them to the DVD drive instead
I did not want to remove my buttons but I hope I can describe what I did to make this work.
https://imgur.com/M0yshlm
The yellow arrow points to a flat piece of the button assembly that I have adhered to the top using double sided tape. Which is why I don't want to remove it
The red lines are approximately where I had to cut the top part of the case to make room for the button assembly. The screw post had to be slimmed down a bit so the assembly could be pushed in far enough to make the buttons sit at the right angle. I made no cuts to the button assembly.
Blue arrow points to a 1cm nylon spacer I glued in place, you can just make it out in the picture. This is the exact size to support the assembly against the tops screw post. This means that the case will clamp down slighty on this piece when fully assembled. Combined with the double sided tape there is absolute no wobble
https://imgur.com/h4noTSQ
I hope this helps a bit. Send me a PM if you have further questions
Every part of the outer case is from the 5000X model, including the fan mount. This part is a little bit different than the mount on the 3500X. Some minor cuts had to be made near the DVD drive. Not able to properly show this in my picture unfortunately.
Normally you would screw down this part with two screws but they no longer align so I just used a few drops of hotglue. Notice that I avoided filling the hole on the left side of the fan, as this is still used to screw the case together. I made no cuts in the fan itself, only the plastic mounting piece.
https://imgur.com/QvyFhvm
The USB/S400 sticker from 3500X was removed using my hotair station at 120 degree celcius and low air pressure. I was carefull not to keep it at one spot for long as that could damage the texture of the plastic. This wasn't easy to remove. I had to use a spudger from the back to apply pressure. You can see that there is a slight bend at the corner. This picuture shows it at the worst angle. It's not really noticeable IRL
https://imgur.com/jKZ6pW6
You can just make out the power supply through the ventholes. Notice that it is flipped so the PCB sits much closer to the bottom of the case. A long plastic post had to be cut to 1-2mm in length to make room for this. No photo of that, but I think it should be pretty obvious. This is all the modification needed on the bottom part of the case. It already has the hole for the S400 port.
Top part of the case is the most difficult because the buttons are separate on the 3500X and clicks into place in the corner of the case, attached by a long ribbon cable. This is a super dumb design choice and the later models corrected this by just sticking them to the DVD drive instead
I did not want to remove my buttons but I hope I can describe what I did to make this work.
https://imgur.com/M0yshlm
The yellow arrow points to a flat piece of the button assembly that I have adhered to the top using double sided tape. Which is why I don't want to remove it
The red lines are approximately where I had to cut the top part of the case to make room for the button assembly. The screw post had to be slimmed down a bit so the assembly could be pushed in far enough to make the buttons sit at the right angle. I made no cuts to the button assembly.
Blue arrow points to a 1cm nylon spacer I glued in place, you can just make it out in the picture. This is the exact size to support the assembly against the tops screw post. This means that the case will clamp down slighty on this piece when fully assembled. Combined with the double sided tape there is absolute no wobble
https://imgur.com/h4noTSQ
I hope this helps a bit. Send me a PM if you have further questions
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Damn, what a write-up, appreciate all the effort you went into describing what you did and the pics! I had no idea how bad the button design is on the 3500x (and earlier, I presume) Nice job on getting it all put together
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Konsolkongen
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- Location: Denmark
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
No problem. Hadn’t hooked the PS2 up yet so it didn’t take long
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Anyone know why the SNES HD Retrovision cables work with NESRGB and what other RGB/Component cables would work with NESRGB even if I need to make one myself. I am trying to acquire another pair of cables besides my HD Retrovision. My NES has a multi-out installed.
Would this work?
Would this work?
Last edited by Lopenator on Thu Dec 08, 2022 2:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've always meant to do a fan mod, but never got around to it. I would be shocked if there isn't a decently quiet fan out there that will fit within the confines of the space. I certainly am not going to put that hulking caboose on the back of my PS2.Gunstar wrote:Thanks for the info, yeah I agree not a fan of the noctua mod..
Pics would be appreciated but no worries if you don't want to open the PS2 up again
Like, this one is 60x60x15 and takes 4-13VDC: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/det ... 99/6198979
Probably work better than the stock. It's 20dB/A at 12VDC, so it will be quieter than a 60x60 Noctua at the same voltage, though it won't push as much air as a 5V Noctua being overdriven (also not good for the fan's life anyway).
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Konsolkongen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It's very hard to see in the Amazon listing, but it looks like they are using the NF-A6x25 FLX which is 12V at least
The fan you link to is probably much more quiet than the Nidec one from the 50004 I'm currently using. I may pick one up one day
The fan you link to is probably much more quiet than the Nidec one from the 50004 I'm currently using. I may pick one up one day
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm assuming that it's safe to clean my Slap Fight PCB with isopropyl alcohol (bottle says ethanol content is 76.9~81.4%, as that is what is available here I guess) and q-tips or whatever, right? It's so dirty that my fingers will get covered in filth when I touch it, but it works fine, so I never bothered, but I do really want to clean it.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Ethanol I find is generally better at cleaning than iso anyway. I used to keep a bottle of everclear around to remove sticker residue. But it can harm certain plastics and finishes, so it's optimal to test a small area before going whole hog. I would imagine it's probably fine.Steven wrote:I'm assuming that it's safe to clean my Slap Fight PCB with isopropyl alcohol (bottle says ethanol content is 76.9~81.4%, as that is what is available here I guess) and q-tips or whatever, right? It's so dirty that my fingers will get covered in filth when I touch it, but it works fine, so I never bothered, but I do really want to clean it.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Lighter fluid is generally the best method for cleaning PCBs. I learned this from a very reputable repair person.
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