Questions that do not deserve a thread

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ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Issac Zachary wrote:
ldeveraux wrote:
Issac Zachary wrote:I got a question?

PSX controller to USB.

What options are there that are good? All of them? A certain brand?

I'm looking to get PS1 and PS2 contollers working on my MiSTer.
Uhh, the PS3 controller natively uses USB, do you have one of those?
Thanks!

Yes, two controllers actually. You think that would be the way to go? I didn't even think of trying that. On the other hand, I don't have the USB cables for those, but I could get some. I only have a charging stand and have used them wirelessly with the PS3.
It's literally just a mini USB cable
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Hello

I have Panasonic TC-29FX20R CRT TV which is 29 inch, but I noticed some color "washed out" issue as seen by the images here: https://slow.pics/c/49bFXUgc

these pics are PS2 via good component cables, I also tested Super Famicom composite input and it is the same.

what is the issue? I tried to do various tweaks in settings but none solved it. I don't have a remote right now, will get one soon. I used on-screen buttons.

Is there an easy way to fix this or should I just get another tv?


I aimed (and still do) at Sony trinitron WEGA CRT but couldn't find one till now.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Hello guys. what do you think of Sony WEGA Trinitron KV-SW292M80 CRT for retro gaming?

how does it measure vs other trinitrons? is it a high quality one? it has a serial number of 2008021, does it mean it was manufactured in 2008?

here are the pics: https://imgur.com/a/qOBPxTr

I hope it is an excellent one, I will get it in 2 days but can't wait to know about it.

it is weird that it doesn't have much info online or in that wikipedia.
Issac Zachary
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Issac Zachary »

VEGETA wrote:Hello guys. what do you think of Sony WEGA Trinitron KV-SW292M80 CRT for retro gaming?

how does it measure vs other trinitrons? is it a high quality one? it has a serial number of 2008021, does it mean it was manufactured in 2008?

here are the pics: https://imgur.com/a/qOBPxTr

I hope it is an excellent one, I will get it in 2 days but can't wait to know about it.

it is weird that it doesn't have much info online or in that wikipedia.
Good question! I don't know, but I do like Sony Trinitrons in general.

Here's the service manual, I think:
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Son ... 12413.html

What are you going to use it for? That might help figure out what it's good for.

Seeing how it's from 2005 or later I would think it's all digital, so expect input lag, no light guns, 240p being treated as 480i and stuff like that. However, that's just my guess. If it's from that era it may make a good 480P or HD gaming TV (Game Cube, Wii, PS3, XBox, Sega Dreamcast, etc.)
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Issac Zachary wrote: Good question! I don't know, but I do like Sony Trinitrons in general.

Here's the service manual, I think:
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Son ... 12413.html

What are you going to use it for? That might help figure out what it's good for.

Seeing how it's from 2005 or later I would think it's all digital, so expect input lag, no light guns, 240p being treated as 480i and stuff like that. However, that's just my guess. If it's from that era it may make a good 480P or HD gaming TV (Game Cube, Wii, PS3, XBox, Sega Dreamcast, etc.)
Not all post-2005 CRTs are HD. I don't really know if this one is post-2005 or so, don't know the date.

This one I think is not HD but just SD, my evidence is this picture of service manual: https://imgur.com/a/HKMDiOs >> notice how they are telling you to adjust your DVD player to output only interlaced signal before connecting it to YPbPr component inputs... therefore I concluded it is SD CRT which is what I want.

Plus, it doesn't have HDMI or any other video input besides composite and component.


I am using it for retro gaming, my consoles are: Twin Famicom, Super Famicom, Sega Genesis, PS1, PS2, Dreamcast, PC Engine, and Neo Geo AES.

all are 240p or 480i, which is the target.
Issac Zachary
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Issac Zachary »

VEGETA wrote:
Issac Zachary wrote: Good question! I don't know, but I do like Sony Trinitrons in general.

Here's the service manual, I think:
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Son ... 12413.html

What are you going to use it for? That might help figure out what it's good for.

Seeing how it's from 2005 or later I would think it's all digital, so expect input lag, no light guns, 240p being treated as 480i and stuff like that. However, that's just my guess. If it's from that era it may make a good 480P or HD gaming TV (Game Cube, Wii, PS3, XBox, Sega Dreamcast, etc.)
Not all post-2005 CRTs are HD. I don't really know if this one is post-2005 or so, don't know the date.

This one I think is not HD but just SD, my evidence is this picture of service manual: https://imgur.com/a/HKMDiOs >> notice how they are telling you to adjust your DVD player to output only interlaced signal before connecting it to YPbPr component inputs... therefore I concluded it is SD CRT which is what I want.

Plus, it doesn't have HDMI or any other video input besides composite and component.


I am using it for retro gaming, my consoles are: Twin Famicom, Super Famicom, Sega Genesis, PS1, PS2, Dreamcast, PC Engine, and Neo Geo AES.

all are 240p or 480i, which is the target.
Good points.

The manual above, which seems to be for the same TV, has a date of 2005. So my guess is it's from 2005.

It also seems like it was sold in India. :?:

What is cool is it looks like it's 50Hz compatible! That would make me jelous as I'm wanting to get into Commodore stuff like the C64 and Amiga but my Trinitron is 60Hz only. Not that you need that function, but maybe one of these days you'll want to play a PAL game on a modded Super Famicom or something and you would be able to just fine without it playing in "speed mode."
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

I am in Jordan and we are 50hz PAL, I have consoles of both regions so a multi-system CRT is a must for me. Also, in my knowledge, component YPbPr video is region free by itself, or rather universal. NTSC\PAL are usually refers to composite\s-video. However, IMO, if the CRT itself doesn't support 50hz then maybe even component won't work. still need confirmation on this.

being from 2005 onward + an SD CRT is always a plus. I will deliver my notes and tests to all of you once I get it. you cannot imagine how hyped I am.

IMO 29" is the perfect size for SD CRT, it is very big but still manageable... also viewable from any distance.

I found only one reddit post (besides mine) that mentions this particular model, so I thought of asking here (still sent a PM to that person).

Being sold in India maybe similar to us in these regions.
Issac Zachary
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Issac Zachary »

VEGETA wrote:I am in Jordan and we are 50hz PAL, I have consoles of both regions so a multi-system CRT is a must for me. Also, in my knowledge, component YPbPr video is region free by itself, or rather universal. NTSC\PAL are usually refers to composite\s-video. However, IMO, if the CRT itself doesn't support 50hz then maybe even component won't work. still need confirmation on this.

being from 2005 onward + an SD CRT is always a plus. I will deliver my notes and tests to all of you once I get it. you cannot imagine how hyped I am.

IMO 29" is the perfect size for SD CRT, it is very big but still manageable... also viewable from any distance.

I found only one reddit post (besides mine) that mentions this particular model, so I thought of asking here (still sent a PM to that person).

Being sold in India maybe similar to us in these regions.
I think you are on track. That CRT has quite a different motherboard than mine from 1997. I couldn't find the Jungle chip for your CRT I normally look for since finding an RGB or even a Y-Pb-Pr set is kind of hard, but the Jungle chip makes it possible to mod it for those kinds of inputs.

Here in the USA I've never seen a 50Hz capable CRT, YPbPr input or otherwise. I'm not even sure how I'd get one here.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Yes, looks like this crt is not well known and has some difference. being sd and modern made me buy it immediately once it appear in opensooq!

having it rgb modded is tempting but also complicated. I've seen people just put r g b lines through a resistor to the jungle chip inputs + put a switch to manually control blanking signal to choose rgb when it is high... but i feel it is not that easy. plus i never tried opening one and fixing it myself. i don't know how to properly discharge it and so on.

if component is good then i will just use it. do you really notice any difference between rgb and component on such crts?
Issac Zachary
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Issac Zachary »

VEGETA wrote:Yes, looks like this crt is not well known and has some difference. being sd and modern made me buy it immediately once it appear in opensooq!

having it rgb modded is tempting but also complicated. I've seen people just put r g b lines through a resistor to the jungle chip inputs + put a switch to manually control blanking signal to choose rgb when it is high... but i feel it is not that easy. plus i never tried opening one and fixing it myself. i don't know how to properly discharge it and so on.

if component is good then i will just use it. do you really notice any difference between rgb and component on such crts?
I've decided to both RGB and Y-Pb-Pr mod my CRT, but haven't finished, so can't compare yet.

However, from what I understand the quality can be exactly same; the difference being that RGB is "one standard" across all TVs whereas Y-Pb-Pr isn't exactly the same for all TVs without adjusting the settings. For an example when RGB sends voltage only down the G-line you get perfect green on any TV. But with Y-Pb-Pr you need a combination of voltages between Y, Pb, and Pr to get green, and a console trying to send perfect green may not be interpreted as perfect green by the TV without adjustments.

Because of that, RGB CRT's, modded or not, will likely have fewer image adjustment options, whereas Y-Pb-Pr will have more adjustments. This could make either RGB or Y-Pb-Pr the better option. Maybe you want to have "perfect" colors without having to adjust anything, then RGB would be better. But maybe you want it to be a bit more saturated or lean more towards a certain hue so it looks better for you, then Y-Pb-Pr would be better.

At any rate, Y-Pb-Pr should have the ability to look just like RGB with proper adjustment (or close enough to be impossible to tell any difference even without any adjustments) so there's not much reason to go out and mod a TV for RGB when it already has Y-Pb-Pr. Unless, you have a console that has RGB but not Y-Pb-Pr and you're cheap like me and would rather mod the TV with a few pieces of spare wire and blobs of solder than to go buy a dedicated RGB to Y-Pb-Pr transcoder.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

anyone tried this 10-port SCART switcher: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313663570564

there is this otaku brand one: https://otaku-games.com/misc/rgb/scart- ... using.html

it is listed as 650 hkd assuming it is hong kong dollars this means about 85$. anyone tried this?


Also, I need a Component YPbPr switcher to switch just between 2 sources, any cheap affordable solution?
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

I found the following component switchers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255556186664 -> this one by Phillips and it is very cheap, used one is about 25$. anyone tried it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185447100125 -> only 15$, no brand on it.

what do you guys think?

I really don't want those passive ones since I keep reading they are dimming the picture.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Sony WEGA Trinitron KV-292M80: https://slow.pics/c/0RyivpcL

check the images with full resolution close-up! this seems to my eye the perfect retro gaming set, what do you think? is there any consumer CRT which can be better than this one?

thanks
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Konsolkongen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Konsolkongen »

I don't think it looks very good. How are you connecting the Dreamcast? There shouldn't be any black edges in the logo, just one solid color.

https://i.slow.pics/88eaASbI.jpg

It looks to me like it has sharpness turned way up. You should also dial the saturation way down. The brown outline in the Sonic Adventure logo looks like an eye-searing burning orange. That's not right.

https://i.slow.pics/mwkzu3Z1.jpg

If the TV has a factory reset option I would try that and go from there, I bet you can get much better results from it :)
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Konsolkongen wrote:I don't think it looks very good. How are you connecting the Dreamcast? There shouldn't be any black edges in the logo, just one solid color.

https://i.slow.pics/88eaASbI.jpg

It looks to me like it has sharpness turned way up. You should also dial the saturation way down. The brown outline in the Sonic Adventure logo looks like an eye-searing burning orange. That's not right.

https://i.slow.pics/mwkzu3Z1.jpg

If the TV has a factory reset option I would try that and go from there, I bet you can get much better results from it :)
I did factory reset before taking such pics. However, I used custom settings not "standard" or "vivid". mine is similar to standard but a bit more colorful.

sharpness is 50 but doesn't differ much than standard.

what settings you suggest?

edit: i have modified sharpness to be just 25 instead of 50. Now halos do not exist, increased the brightness a bit.

edit 2: dreamcast is by scart rgb to rgb2comp to crt via excellent component cables. best of the best connections.
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Konsolkongen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Konsolkongen »

VEGETA wrote: what settings you suggest?

edit: i have modified sharpness to be just 25 instead of 50. Now halos do not exist, increased the brightness a bit.

edit 2: dreamcast is by scart rgb to rgb2comp to crt via excellent component cables. best of the best connections.
What is the range for saturation and how high is it currently set?

After reducing sharpness, do the Dreamcast logo (the blue swirl) still have black edges? It should be one solid color, like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whrmtU8MY44
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Konsolkongen wrote:
VEGETA wrote: what settings you suggest?

edit: i have modified sharpness to be just 25 instead of 50. Now halos do not exist, increased the brightness a bit.

edit 2: dreamcast is by scart rgb to rgb2comp to crt via excellent component cables. best of the best connections.
What is the range for saturation and how high is it currently set?

After reducing sharpness, do the Dreamcast logo (the blue swirl) still have black edges? It should be one solid color, like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whrmtU8MY44
Here are the settings:

Picture: 100%
Brightness: 50%
Color: 50%
Hue: 50% < stuck and cannot be modified.
Sharpness: 25%

other picture settings:
color temperature: neutral
intelligent picture: On

this is for custom, while "standard" and "vivid" cannot be seen but they are very sharpened with lots of halos.

I cannot take the picture for dreamcast now as I am preparing to leave for 3 weeks, when I return I will see. but your idea revolves around reducing sharpness until it has no halos right?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

another issue on separate matter: anyone knows everdrive.me admin? I tried making an order but didn't pay since I closed the page by mistake. now my order exists in my account and assigned as unpaid with no option to proceed.

EDIT: I took a quick look, sharpness of 50 is the middle line, if it gets less than 25 it will create a halo to the left of characters. I took the "picture" setting down from 100 to about 75 which reduced colors a bit. now it is similar to standard but less bright, thus i switched to standard which is a preset by factory. the black line is due to flicker of 480i not sharpness.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by RottenToTheGore »

Wanted to see if this would work ok. I've got my PC outputting 320x240 @ 15khz, using a GTX 970 if that matters. Wanting to run it into a SD only PVM.

Original plan was to run it into a rgb rxi 201 to process from RGBHV to RGBs, but there's something wrong with the 201 in that the blue signal isn't working at all. However the sync processing works as intended.

I'll have to rig a couple adapters up to have just the RGB lines go straight to the PVM, and the HV into the 201, and then out to the PVM.

Everything here sound ok? Don't want to mess something up.
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Is there a thread for whatever the best HDTV for retro gaming is? I'm pretty sure it's the C1, but there are many different varieties/year models to consider. I have an old Samsung PN50C7000 which works great, but looking to go >=63"
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

I'm pretty sure it's the C1, but there are many different varieties/year models to consider.
What you gain on the 2022 models is HDR brightness and a touch better near-black handling. Watch the recent MLiG video by Marc to see what you lose in return (120Hz BFI, free two-axis zoom, more lag in some modes on the '22 models). Given the price point, at which you can pick up C1s at the moment, even the 77" model, it's really a no brainer and nothing else to consider.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Fudoh wrote:
I'm pretty sure it's the C1, but there are many different varieties/year models to consider.
What you gain on the 2022 models is HDR brightness and a touch better near-black handling. Watch the recent MLiG video by Marc to see what you lose in return (120Hz BFI, free two-axis zoom, more lag in some modes on the '22 models). Given the price point, at which you can pick up C1s at the moment, even the 77" model, it's really a no brainer and nothing else to consider.
So the answer is the C1? Which model, aren't there many? Is there a particular year that was 'best'? Literally my only requirement is bigger than 50" screen, it'll be used 75% for retro gaming. I will certainly consider older models and used, since I'm not willing to pay $1000 for this TV.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

VEGETA wrote:I found the following component switchers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255556186664 -> this one by Phillips and it is very cheap, used one is about 25$. anyone tried it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185447100125 -> only 15$, no brand on it.

what do you guys think?

I really don't want those passive ones since I keep reading they are dimming the picture.
I have two passive component switches from philips. One is silver topped with ugly round buttons in the silver (also has Svideo) and the other is just a square black box with buttons on the front. Both work great in my experience on CRTs, Plasma HDTVs, and feeding into a retrotink 5x pro.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

So the answer is the C1? Which model, aren't there many?
all the different models (with all the letters and numbers following the C1) only describe the color (light metal + white back vs. dark metal + grey back), number of tuners (1 vs. 2) and some wireless audio capabilities. Some are limited to certain distributions channels. Overall nothing you should base your decision on (well, nothing except the color maybe).

The C1 is strictly from 2021. 2020 had the CX (also great), 2022 has a the C2. If you're buying 2nd hand, limit your choice to CX and C1 models.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

Issac Zachary wrote:
ldeveraux wrote:
Issac Zachary wrote:I got a question?

PSX controller to USB.

What options are there that are good? All of them? A certain brand?

I'm looking to get PS1 and PS2 contollers working on my MiSTer.
Uhh, the PS3 controller natively uses USB, do you have one of those?
Thanks!

Yes, two controllers actually. You think that would be the way to go? I didn't even think of trying that. On the other hand, I don't have the USB cables for those, but I could get some. I only have a charging stand and have used them wirelessly with the PS3.
I bought a 2 controller PS2 to USB adapter on Amazon in 2020 that works fine. No longer exists on there but looks the same as this $10.26 one on Walmart except mine has no brand name on the circle. I paid less so maybe worth shopping around.

VEGETA wrote:Also, in my knowledge, component YPbPr video is region free by itself, or rather universal. NTSC\PAL are usually refers to composite\s-video. However, IMO, if the CRT itself doesn't support 50hz then maybe even component won't work. still need confirmation on this.
YPbPr is same NTSC\PAL division like composite\s-video. Can split the s-video's Y and feed it into a CRT with PbPr and get working component. I did as test with PS2 multiout chaining. The digital component form of YCbCr is universal like analog and digital RGB, minus throwing 50 Hz at a 60 Hz-only display. Edit: I think 720p, 1080i and the abandoned 1080p component are universal.
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Fudoh wrote:
So the answer is the C1? Which model, aren't there many?
all the different models (with all the letters and numbers following the C1) only describe the color (light metal + white back vs. dark metal + grey back), number of tuners (1 vs. 2) and some wireless audio capabilities. Some are limited to certain distributions channels. Overall nothing you should base your decision on (well, nothing except the color maybe).

The C1 is strictly from 2021. 2020 had the CX (also great), 2022 has a the C2. If you're buying 2nd hand, limit your choice to CX and C1 models.
Oh fantastic info, thanks a bunch. Happen to know the going rate for a 65" C1 or CX?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

ldeveraux wrote:
Fudoh wrote:
So the answer is the C1? Which model, aren't there many?
all the different models (with all the letters and numbers following the C1) only describe the color (light metal + white back vs. dark metal + grey back), number of tuners (1 vs. 2) and some wireless audio capabilities. Some are limited to certain distributions channels. Overall nothing you should base your decision on (well, nothing except the color maybe).

The C1 is strictly from 2021. 2020 had the CX (also great), 2022 has a the C2. If you're buying 2nd hand, limit your choice to CX and C1 models.
Oh fantastic info, thanks a bunch. Happen to know the going rate for a 65" C1 or CX?
If your goal is under $1000 you'll be hard pressed to get a 65" OLED. You could probably get away with a 55" one for under 1K though.

Looking on Craigslist in the SF Bay area (first google result) lowest I see is around $1200 for a used 65" CX or C1. If you're near a large city that's probably about what you'll see too- if you aren't, you probably won't really find 65" OLEDs on Craigslist I'd imagine.

Ebay has a father's day coupon right now that'll get you a 55" C1 for $850 refurbished, $1000 new
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

bobrocks95 wrote:
ldeveraux wrote: Oh fantastic info, thanks a bunch. Happen to know the going rate for a 65" C1 or CX?
If your goal is under $1000 you'll be hard pressed to get a 65" OLED. You could probably get away with a 55" one for under 1K though.

Looking on Craigslist in the SF Bay area (first google result) lowest I see is around $1200 for a used 65" CX or C1. If you're near a large city that's probably about what you'll see too- if you aren't, you probably won't really find 65" OLEDs on Craigslist I'd imagine.

Ebay has a father's day coupon right now that'll get you a 55" C1 for $850 refurbished, $1000 new
My upper limit was honestly no more than $500, so I think a C1 is out of the picture. I don't really need 4k or OLED, just something modestly better than my PN50C7000 and >50"
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

ldeveraux wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
ldeveraux wrote: Oh fantastic info, thanks a bunch. Happen to know the going rate for a 65" C1 or CX?
If your goal is under $1000 you'll be hard pressed to get a 65" OLED. You could probably get away with a 55" one for under 1K though.

Looking on Craigslist in the SF Bay area (first google result) lowest I see is around $1200 for a used 65" CX or C1. If you're near a large city that's probably about what you'll see too- if you aren't, you probably won't really find 65" OLEDs on Craigslist I'd imagine.

Ebay has a father's day coupon right now that'll get you a 55" C1 for $850 refurbished, $1000 new
My upper limit was honestly no more than $500, so I think a C1 is out of the picture. I don't really need 4k or OLED, just something modestly better than my PN50C7000 and >50"
TCL was a good budget brand for gaming TVs last time I was looking. They had lower lag than Vizios at the time. Rtings also seems to be recommending some cheap Hisense TVs for gaming.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

I meant by component is universal is that as long as the screen supports 15khz, it will take and display everything. ntsc\pal are encoded signals, while RGB is just straight color channels. YPbPr is taken from that RGB which is universal as you mentioned.

the way I understand it, is that 50hz and 60hz are references mainly to pal and ntsc encoded videos but if you have rgb video converted to component and the monitor accepts 15khz then it should be able to display it properly. I am open to other tested opinions of say feeding rgb or component which is 50 hz to a 60hz crt and see what happens.
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