Questions that do not deserve a thread

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lechu
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by lechu »

Question for Terraonion MODE owners.

Has anyone been able to source a good micro SD card extension? All the ones I find are really bulky on the console end, and they end up hitting the power supply and putting pressure on the connector for MODE.
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erik343
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by erik343 »

Hi, soon in the future I am going to RGBs mod my Playstation 2 console. This mod allows for RGBs in 480p resolution instead of sync on green. It also does RGBs in all resolutions. This website explains how to perform the mod: http://www.dansprojects.com/ps2sync.html

I am just wondering what the red 1.5, 3.5, and 5 numbers with a red arrow mean on this? Does that just refer to the voltages? Do I need to do something on those labels to perform this mod?

There was a thread on this forum where Dan, the author, explains how to do this mod, but I could not find it with any searches. If you know where this thread is, could you also give me the link?

Thanks very much!
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

erik343 wrote: This mod allows for RGBs in 480p resolution instead of sync on green.
So, I believe you can just use a luma sync cable for progressive output if I'm not mistaken. I dont think you have to do this, but I've never tried to do progressive over RGB, I use 480i.

But, yes, it looks like those arrows are calling out voltages on those pins. It doesn't have anything to do with the colors. I believe he is just calling your attention to the fact that voltages are present on those pins.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Pretty sure all other sync options (composite, luma) are disabled in 480p. I have a cable with a sync stripper on luma and remember not getting any kind of signal outside of SoG mode on my display after switching to 480p.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

bobrocks95 wrote:Pretty sure all other sync options (composite, luma) are disabled in 480p.
Weird. Didn't realize that. Thanks for setting me straight on it.
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

vol.2 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:Pretty sure all other sync options (composite, luma) are disabled in 480p.
Weird. Didn't realize that. Thanks for setting me straight on it.
I think it's not so weird. Composite video and S-Video weren't designed to go beyond 15kHz; so, when you go above that with 480p+, you can't generate sensible composite or S-Video signals, thus they get shut off.


Side note: It is, however, possible to still generate 15kHz clean composite sync when outputting in 480p+, which is what the Xbox does in order to enable light gun functionality when displaying in 480p. That 15kHz sync is provided to light guns on that 5th pin on the controller port (the other 4 being standard USB).
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

nmalinoski wrote: thus they get shut off.
It struck me as weird because I'm used to thinking about the multi-outs as outputting everything at the same time. It never occurred to me that switching to progressive mode would result in the luma and composite becoming disabled. I can't imagine that they are purposefully disabled, seems more like a situation where the chip (or the implementation of the chip) can only do one or the other for cost reasons.
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

vol.2 wrote:It struck me as weird because I'm used to thinking about the multi-outs as outputting everything at the same time. It never occurred to me that switching to progressive mode would result in the luma and composite becoming disabled. I can't imagine that they are purposefully disabled, seems more like a situation where the chip (or the implementation of the chip) can only do one or the other for cost reasons.
I imagine it's the encoder chip purposefully disabling composite video and S-Video at 31kHz+. Since the encoder is downstream of the GPU, there's probably no good reason for the console to have to be aware of which outputs gets disabled by the encoder; just tell the encoder which mode you're in (or let it figure that out for itself), and let the encoder decide what to do.
Ninja-xyz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Ninja-xyz »

To do some recap and to fix the deflection circuit they asked me for 420$ VAT excluded. Do you consider this a fair price?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Ninja-xyz wrote:To do some recap and to fix the deflection circuit they asked me for 420$ VAT excluded. Do you consider this a fair price?
Uh, fix the deflection circuit on what CRT? Do you have an earlier post I'm missing?
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solidus
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by solidus »

Sort of a hardware question I guess?

I am looking to start recording my gameplay just for preservation of high score runs and for youtube uploads. I mainly use RetroArch. What is the most straightforward, popular way to capture gameplay? Are certain methods more demanding than others in terms of processing power? My main desktop is plenty powerful (Ryzen 3600), but I sometimes play on a weaker machine in my living room for the larger screen. Does retroarch have some built in way to record or should I use some 3rd party capture tool?
SavagePencil
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by SavagePencil »

solidus wrote:Sort of a hardware question I guess?

I am looking to start recording my gameplay just for preservation of high score runs and for youtube uploads. I mainly use RetroArch. What is the most straightforward, popular way to capture gameplay? Are certain methods more demanding than others in terms of processing power? My main desktop is plenty powerful (Ryzen 3600), but I sometimes play on a weaker machine in my living room for the larger screen. Does retroarch have some built in way to record or should I use some 3rd party capture tool?
OBS will let you quickly customize your screen layout, and you can twiddle with compression quality to find a balance that keeps CPU overhead low. Could even record separate audio tracks so you can narrate while you play.
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solidus
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by solidus »

SavagePencil wrote:
solidus wrote:Sort of a hardware question I guess?

I am looking to start recording my gameplay just for preservation of high score runs and for youtube uploads. I mainly use RetroArch. What is the most straightforward, popular way to capture gameplay? Are certain methods more demanding than others in terms of processing power? My main desktop is plenty powerful (Ryzen 3600), but I sometimes play on a weaker machine in my living room for the larger screen. Does retroarch have some built in way to record or should I use some 3rd party capture tool?
OBS will let you quickly customize your screen layout, and you can twiddle with compression quality to find a balance that keeps CPU overhead low. Could even record separate audio tracks so you can narrate while you play.
Oh cool I hadnt heard of this. Will check it out
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

I have a retro audio only rack with 6 input devices going to an old receiver with speakers attached. Because it's all old, I have everything powered switched on demand so I only have the components on when I need them. Everything goes into an 8 port RCA/composite switcher, but it's a manual switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C) and I'd like it to switch automatically when powered. It doesn't need video, but this was all I found with enough ports. Anybody know of an auto composite switch?

I guess since they are all powered off except the active unit, it could be a gate or union, but I don't want any signal loss across the already poor quality composite lines.
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erik343
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by erik343 »

I am buying a new Triplett multimeter. Probably the mm650. I am getting this in order to measure some capacitors. If I measure a polarized electrolytic cap backwards with the positive and negative leads, will that damage the capacitor at all?
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

erik343 wrote:I am buying a new Triplett multimeter. Probably the mm650. I am getting this in order to measure some capacitors. If I measure a polarized electrolytic cap backwards with the positive and negative leads, will that damage the capacitor at all?
Typically, no. There are some special testers that will put a more significant load on the cap which I guess could hurt the cap if done backwards, but a normal dinky capacitor tester shouldn't really hurt anything. However, I can't imagine the situation you would need to do that. Just dont put a cap on backwards. They. will be marked.
Star Lurker
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Star Lurker »

I have a Panasonic CRT TV (model CT-20G6E) from the mid-90s that used to work, but years in a Florida garage have taken a toll on it and it currently displays a green discoloration (and colors like yellow instead of red) on the upper left half of the screen. I think the degaussing circuit might be broken, as it makes a hollow noise, unlike the noisy burst of most CRTs when powering on, but it could be something else. I tried the corded drill degaussing trick, but it didn't really work aside from making the picture appear brighter. Here's a video demonstrating this issue:

https://files.catbox.moe/acoxgt.mp4


Hope someone is willing to give out some advice, and if this is a trivial fix or not.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Star Lurker wrote:.....
It does look like a degaussing issue. It looks like a significant issue caused by close proximity to a strong magnetic field for a long time (like it was stored next to a speaker).

Built-in coils won't fix something that severe, and I've never had much luck with the corded drill trick myself.

It's likely that you also have weakened or failed components on the edge of serviceability that are exacerbating the issue, and it's not impossible that there is permanent damage to the shadow mask if a magnet was too close for too long.

The next step for you to try, should you want to go down this road, is to use a real degaussing coil and learn how to use it. However, you could easily find that it doesn't help. In that case, it's components or the mask. If it's components, you can fix that, but it could take a lot of troubleshooting because who know exactly what's wrong? If it's the mask, then it's totally dead and trash.
peterwright1234
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by peterwright1234 »

Does anyone know what the last couple Bvm d24s have sold for on ebay? I think its time to part with it. Its low hours and I'm probably gonna sell local in the San Francisco Bay Area. It doesn't look like any have been on ebay recently so I'm not sure where to start with the price.
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FinalBaton
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

peterwright1234 wrote:Does anyone know what the last couple Bvm d24s have sold for on ebay? I think its time to part with it. Its low hours and I'm probably gonna sell local in the San Francisco Bay Area. It doesn't look like any have been on ebay recently so I'm not sure where to start with the price.
check the channel Retrotech. each month, the host does a breakdown of PVM/BVM sales.

also ''sold'' listings on Ebay will tell you that but not sure if you can see worldwide sales. it may just be the sales on your specific ebay site.
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FinalBaton
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

Does anyone know what the ''filter'' option does in Hexen on N64? (2 settings : filter and zoom)

I literally haven't seen anyone talk about this. in fact I can't find a single discussion of this online.

does it work similar to Quake's?
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

I have what looks like the official Sony RGB JP21 cable (SCPH-1050). Do official Sony PS2 or PS3 RGB cables in SCART or JP21 form exist? People say they do but I've never seen an auction or SCPH# listed. In theory they do not have the RGB line capacitors inside that the PS1 cable does.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

NewSchoolBoxer wrote:Do official Sony PS2 or PS3 RGB cables in SCART or JP21 form exist?
I don't know for sure, but I would assume that one of two things is true. A) PS2 JP21 doesn't exist because the format failed and TV manufacturers stopped using the ports by the time the PS2 was a thing. B) None of the JP21 cables have the caps because they aren't strictly needed for the PS1.

Easiest way to narrow it down is to open up your cable and look. Or you could put and LCR meter between the two ends of the cable to see if you're getting 220uf on the colors.

If it's cap-free, then it's basically a PS2/PS3 cable. If it's got caps, then either A is true or you just haven't found the PS2 cable yet.
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Fudoh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

no, there was no dedicated PS2 version of Sony's JP21 cable. There are two box revisions of the PS1 cable though. One in the brown/black striped classic box and the other one in a newer packaging with a picture of the cable on it.

I think Sony wanted to promote their TVs with the Playstation-style AV input, so cables with that particular connector on both ends became available instead.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Fudoh wrote: I think Sony wanted to promote their TVs with the Playstation-style AV input, so cables with that particular connector on both ends became available instead.
Aha. I didn't know that was a thing. I that JP21 was a flop though, so it doesn't surprise me that they stopped using it.
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

Thanks you two! Glad I'm not crazy for thinking there was no PS2/3 JP21. Also glad I don't collect boxes. Cable is too collectible and valuable to me to pry open. My basic multimeter that came with the soldering kit doesn't measure capacitance ugh but I can get 1-10 ohms on R and G to the common Video GND Multiout pin and Sync In to Sync In. Maybe that's the Effective Series Resistance (ESR) of the capacitors. Sync In passes continuity with Composite Video Multiout pin as expected.

Interesting that the cable comes without pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 (Audio Left Out, Audio Ground, Audio Right Out, Sync Ground, Sync Out):
https://imgur.com/a/JyIA5c1 (image link didn't work for me)

No audio breakout so the "In" pins are "Out" from my point of view.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

NewSchoolBoxer wrote:I can get 1-10 ohms on R and G to the common Video GND Multiout pin and Sync In to Sync In. Maybe that's the Effective Series Resistance (ESR) of the capacitors.
You can't get ESR with a multimeter (well, you can if you build a circuit to do it, but it's not the same as resistance).

If you read from Red out to Red in, a series capacitor would make it appear open (no connection) to an ohmmeter. If you get some small resistance, that's likely just the resistance of the line and the connector itself.

(meaning that if it doesn't appear open, there are no caps in the cable)

That would be interesting if there's no caps, because from what Fudoh is saying, they only made PS1 JP21 cables.
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

I looked into measuring ESR. Yeah, there are meters designed specifically to measure it since regular ones cannot. Thanks for pointing that out.

I did measure RGB pins on the JP21 side to their Ins on the Multiout side and got open connection and no continuity. I realize that capacitors make an open circuit with DC. So the multimeter creates a DC voltage to measure resistance. Makes sense.

What I gather then is that the RGB lines have a capacitor in the cable but I can't prove the μF value. No capacitor on the Sync line due to Sync JP21 to Composite Video Multiout pin having a measurable Resistance and passing continuity. If the caps are 220 μF like PS2 and PS3 have then the Feq is 110 μF. My Life in Gaming video says using a 1000 μF capacitor in the cable to drown out the 220 uF inside the consoles. Makes Feq 180 μF.

I don't see anything wrong with my PS2 RGB picture quality with the PS1 cable. Of course, no one has showed the different capacitor values ever making a difference or proving official Sony RGB cables for PS2 or PS3 exist.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by SavagePencil »

Dochartaigh wrote:
FinalBaton wrote:Hmmm... I haven't figured out how to type the SIS commands to the Extron (software to use etc)
https://www.extron.com/download/softwar ... ial=2&id=M
For SIS commands, I want to say I found some apps for my ancient iPad 2 which would send the commands over my house network to my Extron Crosspoints. Might have been using the Linux based Terminal on my Mac though (it was so long ago I completely forget...). You can actually embed SIS commands within a HTML link as well some guy on Reddit found on some Extron documentation (I might have linked to it on my Extron Crosspoint touchscreen post here).

I'll PM you the software which might be what you're looking for (think I might have bundled it in the link in my aforementioned touchscreen post too). I'm pretty sure the MVX is the same software the Crosspoints use (the other newer version is for SMX era stuff I believe).
Sorry to resurrect, but what do I need to do to telnet into my Extron DXP 84? I'm trying to change the EDID values. They say they have a default IP of 192.168.254.254, but that doesn't seem to work when I attempt to telnet into it plugged into my router OR when plugged directly into my laptop's ethernet port. The IP returned in Windows' IPCONFIG also doesn't work. What am I missing?
Dochartaigh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

SavagePencil wrote:Sorry to resurrect, but what do I need to do to telnet into my Extron DXP 84? I'm trying to change the EDID values. They say they have a default IP of 192.168.254.254, but that doesn't seem to work when I attempt to telnet into it plugged into my router OR when plugged directly into my laptop's ethernet port. The IP returned in Windows' IPCONFIG also doesn't work. What am I missing?
I don't think I've ever had one plug into ethernet first and let me do anything with it - I always had to use a USB to Serial cable the first time + their windows software to turn on DCHP as outlined below, then you can use ethernet regularly afterwards:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63212


Yours might be different since it's an Extron DXP (assuming HDMI version), but I think those first steps are the same at least. By the way, what are you using this for? I was never able to get similar Extron HDMI switchers to work - they only (for the majority) like standard-type signals and would give me black screen dropouts (if they would display at all) with a ton of the OSSC signals for instance (if my memory serves I was getting some dropouts on original Xbox 480p too when ran with an Extron DSC 301) – no matter what settings like EDID I changed (and I changed literally every single settings for probably 10+ hours to try to get it to work).
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