Questions that do not deserve a thread

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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

Make sure you're aware of the risks of poking around inside CRTs before you open it up.
ryuuji
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ryuuji »

Yeah that's why I m asking if it easy to find the screws for the front bezel or not. I know is dangerous if you touch certain things.
Revolver Ocelot
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Revolver Ocelot »

I was using a simple Composite Cable with japanese import Saturn, but now as a proud owner of the framemeister I want to upgrade to S-Video or RGB Scart. Can somebody recommend a good RgB Scart or S Video cable for the Japanese Saturn. And is it worth to upgrade to RGB or would be S-video enough?
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

Retrogamingcables.co.uk is the common suggestion from Europe. People are also saying good things about thefoo.83 on eBay, who appears to be based in Poland.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Revolver Ocelot »

Kez wrote:Retrogamingcables.co.uk is the common suggestion from Europe. People are also saying good things about thefoo.83 on eBay, who appears to be based in Poland.
thanks for the reply. Yes the thefoo.83 on ebay has some nice stuff, but there is no saturn RGB Scart cable in stock at the moment just an S Video cable. Maybe I get one of these.


Retro Gaming cables has some nice stuff as well. But they have lots of RGB Scart cables. and the Sync stuff is a bit confusing. Will every sync type work with the Framemeister ? Or is CSYNC better than Sync on Luma better for the Framemeister?
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

If you have a PAL Saturn get Sync on Luma
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Revolver Ocelot »

Kez wrote:If you have a PAL Saturn get Sync on Luma
I have a japanese ntsc saturn. Is Synch on Luma still a good choice?
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

In that case an NTSC csync cable is probably the best choice overall, but Luma will also do the job.

This one will be fine:
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/seg ... d-for-sale

Or the one with extra shielding with the NTSC CSYNC option:
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/pac ... -PRO-CABLE

Just bear in mind that using a cable wired for csync on a PAL system sends 12V out on the sync pin and can damage your upscaler/TV/switch or whatever you plug it into, so you need to be extra careful with it if you have PAL systems around.

On RetroGamingCables, any csync cable that says "Built in Sync Separator" or the like is not really worth it for the Framemeister. That means the cable is designed for a console that doesn't natively output csync (e.g. PAL Saturn, PAL Gamecube) and they put a circuit in the SCART head to strip another form of sync (Luma or Composite Video). This doesn't really do anything beneficial on devices that don't require csync, like the FM. Otherwise, csync is a pretty safe bet.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Revolver Ocelot »

Thank a lot for the answer.

And good to know that I need to be careful when using Csynch cables when using them on pal Systems. This information is useful for the future. In the future I also want to upgrade my Gamecube from composite to RGB Scart and retro gaming cables seem to be a good choice again for that. They are way cheaper than the orginal Nintendo RGB cables that are supposed After my RGB Mod for the N64 is done I also need an RGB cable for the N64.
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Xyga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Xyga »

Need a quick blind diagnosis please:

What's the problem of a Super Nintendo which picture fades to black like 3 seconds after power on ?

(game plays, I hear the sound just fine)

PSU and cable seem fine, same result on all displays.
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Fudoh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

NTSC cables on a PAL system or vice versa - the caps are the issue.
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Xyga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Xyga »

Mmh, it's a PAL FR (non-modded) with its scart cable, I have another scart cable which is 3rd party and same effect...

It's happening on my crt tvs as well as on the OSSC.

(dead caps on the mobo?)

EDIT: well I've managed to dig out a nintendo av composite cable from the dephts of my shit, and it works perfectly with it.

Does that mean that both my scart cables are shit/dead ? Or that something else needed for RGB output is damaged ? (component pcb-side or a pin in the av connector maybe)

EDIT2: ok my genuine rgb calead le (fr version) triggers the fading to black, and my third party scart lead which happens to have a switch to select between RGB and composite, triggers it too when on 'rgb' but works on 'av' position.
I really don't understand how that can happen unless something necessary to proper RGB output is fucked somewhere.
Again I'm not using any non-PAL stuff at all.

EDIT3: ok I think I've got it: my genuine pal fr lead is broken somewhere, and the third party seems to be aimed at the N64 and GC rather than the snes, and I've read it doesn't pass the needed luminance.
conclusion: I have to fix the genuine scart lead or buy a new one. :arrow:

*wheez*
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Xer Xian
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Xer Xian »

Xyga - I've got a PAL SNES scart cable wired for sync on luma. Bought from thefoo.83 maybe around one year ago. I have no use for it, pay for the shipping it's yours.

---

I've bridged the green power on cable with ground on an ATX psu I have here. When I plug it to the wall the fan spins for maybe half a second and then it stops. No voltage coming from the pins. Is it dead or what?

Edit: I've got another thing to ask - I keep reading that voltages should be measured under load. How is that supposed to be done? Let's say I want to test a PSU that I want to use for arcade boards (PSU has no adjustable voltages), and that the board is a bitch that only wants voltages really close to 5 and 3.3. PSU outputs 5.25 and 3.47v from the pins (my tester was cheap and probably has a 5% variance). Wouldn't powering on the pcb with it and measuring the voltage somewhere on the board be a risky business?
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

Kez wrote:Yeah - doesn't matter what I do with the dials, the effect shows no signs of changing at all.

Here are some more images that might give a clearer indication what is going on:

https://imgur.com/MGAgpo9
https://imgur.com/SfIEh8n
Kez wrote:Here's what I have tried:

various consoles->gscartsw->Sync Strike->Extron->BVM
various consoles->Sync Strike->Extron->BVM
Dreamcast->Extron->BVM

They all give the same results, this weird distorted picture.

The only thing I can't do currently is test the Extron on another device, as I don't have a BNC->SCART connector, only SCART->BNC. However, I did briefly connect the Extron to a JVC monitor in the past and did not have this issue.
So I picked up another Extron unit, a 160 xi. To my surprise, the same thing happens on my BVM. This weird picture with all the colours dark/out of place.

However, on this Extron I get a great picture when I flick the DDSP switch (the 201 just loses sync in DDSP). Only, in doing so I lose the ability to adjust the image and the curve at the top of the screen is still present (I guess SERR and DDSP don't work together or something?). It looks like there is something about the BVM that stops it from working with Extron RGB interfaces..
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BuckoA51
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by BuckoA51 »

Can I play MVS games on an AES by using a NEOSD AES and the ROM image?
OSSC Forums - http://www.videogameperfection.com/forums
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
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Syntax
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Syntax »

Rom images are the same.

The correct way to do this is install a Universal bios in the AES and put it into MVS mode.
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Xyga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Xyga »

Xer Xian wrote:Xyga - I've got a PAL SNES scart cable wired for sync on luma. Bought from thefoo.83 maybe around one year ago. I have no use for it, pay for the shipping it's yours.
Thankd X.X I'll try to fix mine first but I'll keep that in mind.
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cyborc
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by cyborc »

BuckoA51 wrote:Can I play MVS games on an AES by using a NEOSD AES and the ROM image?
As Syntax said, just use the unibios. There are a few minor issues when playing some MVS games on an AES, however.

http://unibios.free.fr/knownissues.html
AES only issues
  • There are no attract mode sounds for many games when running in MVS mode. This is because they read the demo sound soft dip from the backup SRAM which the AES doesn't have (this problem exists on the DEBUG bios also).
  • Some early games like Nam1975 for example will have corrupted 'How to Play' screens when in arcade mode. This is because the AES does not have the needed character font built in that the MVS has.
  • When in USA arcade mode some games will have a corrupted 'Winners don't use Drugs' screen. This is because the AES does not have the needed character font built in that the MVS has.
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sqturn2k
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by sqturn2k »

At first I posted on the XRGB-Mini thread but I discovered it's not related to the mini, so I post it here.

I bought a new psp for it's tv out (it's a 3k) and I have some issues. I use a third-party component cable.

With the XRGB-Mini I have some "extra garbage" on the top, on the PSP Menu. Also the screen is shaking, and some game have black screen or heavy shaking at certain moments.

I will talk about the XMB menu because it's easier to explain :

It seem related to the colors and types of the theme I use :?: :
Some of it make the menu perfect without any issues (no shaking very clear without any issues)
Some make the screen do like a resolution switch (2-3 seconds)
Some make the screen shake
Some make the whole screen black and I need to change the theme color to have an image again.

At first I wrongly thought that my TV (using component input) didn't have issues, but discovering the theme thing made me discover that my TV also have problems.
On my TV the shaking can even be worse and the whole menu is slowed down in top of that.
And the same strange thing, on certain colors the shaking/slowdown stop, on others it's very problematic.

Do you think it's a faulty cable or a faulty console ? Something I can do ? :(
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cicada88
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by cicada88 »

Could anyone suggest any decent 3rd party AC adaptors for Genesis Model 1? Is the original SEGA one still the best bet? Would love to get something smaller and a bit more efficient if there aren't any major drawbacks.

Need 2 to power a Mega Drive / Mega CD

For US 110 Volts
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

cicada88 wrote:Could anyone suggest any decent 3rd party AC adaptors for Genesis Model 1? Is the original SEGA one still the best bet? Would love to get something smaller and a bit more efficient if there aren't any major drawbacks.

Need 2 to power a Mega Drive / Mega CD

For US 110 Volts
A RetroDC if you're fine with the price and don't mind waiting like a month to get it?
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

cicada88 wrote:Could anyone suggest any decent 3rd party AC adaptors for Genesis Model 1? Is the original SEGA one still the best bet? Would love to get something smaller and a bit more efficient if there aren't any major drawbacks.

Need 2 to power a Mega Drive / Mega CD

For US 110 Volts
I made my own hyrda power cord for the genesis, 32x and CD out of a 12VDC 5A power brick and a soldered together a 3 way harness with a 2.1mm socket for the brick and 3 outputs for each sega thing. CD and model 1 are reverse polarity and they both use 2.1mm plugs, model 2 and 32x are center positive and use 1.7mm plugs.

Cost me nothing since I had all that stuff lying around - a 9VDC (3A min) brick would be more "correct" but the regulators in these things are good up to 25VDC iirc.
Last edited by maxtherabbit on Wed Apr 04, 2018 4:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Syntax
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Syntax »

Better not let those plugs touch ever..
I was considering the same approach but worried about ground loops.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

Syntax wrote:Better not let those plugs touch ever..
I was considering the same approach but worried about ground loops.
I made the CD one a fuzz shorter so it can't touch the other two when they're not in the console :D
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Syntax
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Syntax »

Those 12v 5a powerbricks are reapropriated LED driver boards. The brand name is Olive Leaf.
When you opened it I bet you found chopped off wires and such. You can buy the boards for sub $4 delivered.
If it looks anything like this then it can only pull 3a. Any more will shut it down in a few minutes.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2PCS-AC ... 50586.html

I put one on the scope last night and compared it to an old linear Sega PSU and the 5a power brick actually had less ripple.


Considering boxing a few of these 3a ones into one fan cooled unit. They seem to have a better design and heatsink.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-DC-1 ... 63206.html
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

I actually didn't open the brick, I just put a 2.1mm jack on my harness to plug it into. You're right about it coming from an LED application though - the bricks I have came with a batch of LED backlit signs we were working on.

3A of current should be plenty for the megazord regardless

(I'm surprised the old sega psu were linear I assumed they were switching)
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Turom
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Turom »

BVM/PVM question:

Is it normal that the monitor would consider the OUT BNC as an input? Or that it links it with the IN in some way?

Like, on my PVM that has mono sound I was able to get both tracks when plugging L in IN and R in OUT RCA.

And now I just tried on the BKM-129x card at the back of my Multiformat BVM to put the SYNC cable on the OUT of the green and it syncs, as if I had put a T-BNC adapter on GREEN to merge SYNC and GREEN.

Is it that way by design? Is it dangerous?
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Syntax
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Syntax »

Id say the outs are just hard linked to the ins without isolation or amplification from your experience, so to do things safely...

For audio - Put something around 1.2k inline on each channel.

For SOG - Put a 100uf Electro cap on the green line and a 680R resistor on the sync line.
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Turom
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Turom »

Syntax wrote:Id say the outs are just hard linked to the ins without isolation or amplification from your experience, so to do things safely...

For audio - Put something around 1.2k inline on each channel.

For SOG - Put a 100uf Electro cap on the green line and a 680R resistor on the sync line.
Currently I have my machines plugged in a gscartsw_lite => SCART to BNC => PVM/BVM.

Aren't these sufficiently shielded to produce correct signal? Is it any different than using this for my audio and a BNC T connector? I just don't want to damage the BVM or the BKM card, I'm just surprised it works actually.
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Syntax
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Syntax »

You don't simply connect left and right audio, likewise with green and sync.
Its just not cricket.

Add the passive components and be happy with a better picture and audio.

**EDIT**
Probably a good idea to check for continuity first between the ins and outs of your monitors to confirm they are in fact bridged.
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