Questions that do not deserve a thread

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Guspaz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

DiegoPonga wrote:Hi guys. Any reliable SNES-to-GC adapter in order to play GameBoy Player with 8bitdo SNES 2.4g controllers?
I use this: https://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/s ... /index.php
DiegoPonga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by DiegoPonga »

Guspaz wrote:
DiegoPonga wrote:Hi guys. Any reliable SNES-to-GC adapter in order to play GameBoy Player with 8bitdo SNES 2.4g controllers?
I use this: https://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/s ... /index.php
Bought it. Thanks a lot.

I guess due to covid it's getting ages to come, but better late than never.

Now I am building up a GBA throught GameBoy Player setup... Do I need a GBA EverDrive? Can't I boot games from the SD already plugged into the GC?
Dochartaigh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

VEGETA wrote:well, I read that 1881 requires editing the Rset to be able to properly handle anything more than 15khz which means it won't be suitable for both 15 and 31khz at the same time. I want RGsB for PS2 mainly but for anything that has this for SCART up to 480p\576p for a circuit I am developing... involves ADV7800 for digitizing video.
I'm not even following what you guys are talking about, but do have the LM1881 in both my PS2 and PS1 SCART cables (only my Playstations need that sync stripper --everything else is csync-- but I need the stripper since they both go into an Extron Crosspoint), and I'm 99% positive (only 99% because I barely play any of the few 480p-compatible games) my PS2 has no problem outputting 480p/31khz through that cable. Maybe it's because it's RGsB (sync on green) thus bypassing the traditional separate sync line?
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Guspaz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

DiegoPonga wrote:Now I am building up a GBA throught GameBoy Player setup... Do I need a GBA EverDrive? Can't I boot games from the SD already plugged into the GC?
You need either original gameboy carts, or some sort of flash cart. While you can checksum and dump gameboy ROMs to SD cards, you can't go in the other direction, AFAIK.

You can read more in the official documentation: https://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.p ... _Interface

You can use enhanced mgba to load ROMs from the SD card, but then the Game Cube is emulating it, at which point personally I don't think there's a ton of reason to use the Game Cube in the first place, since mGBA runs on all sorts of cheaper/simpler hardware.
DiegoPonga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by DiegoPonga »

Guspaz wrote:
DiegoPonga wrote:Now I am building up a GBA throught GameBoy Player setup... Do I need a GBA EverDrive? Can't I boot games from the SD already plugged into the GC?
You need either original gameboy carts, or some sort of flash cart. While you can checksum and dump gameboy ROMs to SD cards, you can't go in the other direction, AFAIK.

You can read more in the official documentation: https://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.p ... _Interface

You can use enhanced mgba to load ROMs from the SD card, but then the Game Cube is emulating it, at which point personally I don't think there's a ton of reason to use the Game Cube in the first place, since mGBA runs on all sorts of cheaper/simpler hardware.
Oh, thanks a lot. Thank you very much!
atohmdiy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by atohmdiy »

Hello,
Just bought a sony bvm A20 to use with the new 68x clone soon available.
I receive it today but i feel a little dumb, i want to power it on but i can't :roll:

I connect the BVM and BKM-15R with ac power cord and set the two switches to peer to peer, then i power on the monitor, the standby led blink for a few second, then keep steady and the operate led is blinking. Pressing the power button on the BKM-15R do not power on the BVM (it stay in this state, standby led steady and operate is blinking). I try several eternet cable (cat 5e ou 6) and ended with a cat5 cable, but the problem is the same. Maybe the BVM need to detect a source to be power on, unfortunatly i have nothing with sdi and the analog board is not available yet. The documentation do not say much.
SavagePencil
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by SavagePencil »

Two dumb questions about the Crosspoint 88HV that is being shipped to me:
1. Are there any compatibility issues with this switch that I need to be aware of? Something lurking in my mind about these having issues, maybe with some monitors, capture cards, or upscalers…
2. In order to not fry an RT5X or OSSC, should I set the DIP Switches for H&V sync to 75 ohm or 510 ohm?
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

atohmdiy wrote:Hello,
Just bought a sony bvm A20 to use with the new 68x clone soon available.
I receive it today but i feel a little dumb, i want to power it on but i can't :roll:

I connect the BVM and BKM-15R with ac power cord and set the two switches to peer to peer, then i power on the monitor, the standby led blink for a few second, then keep steady and the operate led is blinking. Pressing the power button on the BKM-15R do not power on the BVM (it stay in this state, standby led steady and operate is blinking). I try several eternet cable (cat 5e ou 6) and ended with a cat5 cable, but the problem is the same. Maybe the BVM need to detect a source to be power on, unfortunatly i have nothing with sdi and the analog board is not available yet. The documentation do not say much.
You paid what I assume is over $1000 for an A20F1M that handles 720p/1080i and below but without testing to see if it works? I hope you were able to arrange pickup to rule out shipping damage.

Do you have to use the 15R remote? Doesn't the BVM have its own power and menu buttons? I can use the menu on my PVM even though no video source is connected. Is an okay RGB test.

What do you mean the documentation doesn't say much? Professional video monitors have massively detailed operation and service manuals.

I would definitely buy an HDMI -> SDI converter for that.
AaronSR
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by AaronSR »

New monitor and it doesn't have any aspect ratio adjustment options, thus 4:3 content is stretched to fill the screen. I believe the framemeister can output a pillarbox padded image but will the upcoming OSSC Pro also do this? Also is there some kind of cheap HDMI adapter in the meantime that force the image to be skewed? I find it interesting that a lot of these new expensive gaming monitors dont offer a simple option in the OSD.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

That is strange that it doesn't have it. My monitor doesn't have a 4:3 setting, but it has a setting called expansion that can be set on or off. Off is signal displayed as-is.

You should ask the question in the OSSC Pro thread, and also the retrotink thread if that is interesting to you.
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

ldeveraux wrote:Does anyone have a good recommendation for a screen or monitor or TV i can use for my KVM? Not necessarily games related, but definitely hardware! I have an HDMI KVM that has been outputting to a 40" Sceptre TV, but it recently died. The catch is i convert the HDMI output into a VGA port in the TV so that it sleeps and can be woken by mouse movement. The devices on the KVM are HDMI outputting PC's. I'd rather not spend much on it, which is why i haven't just bought a monitor. My only other requirement is at least 1080p.

I'm open to anything, even if there's is something that will wake from mouse movement on HDMI if it exists?
To follow up, I ended up getting a new board off Ebay from the same TV that had a broken screen. After swapping them out, the Sceptre works good as new. For now at least!
charlizardon
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by charlizardon »

SavagePencil wrote:Two dumb questions about the Crosspoint 88HV that is being shipped to me:
1. Are there any compatibility issues with this switch that I need to be aware of? Something lurking in my mind about these having issues, maybe with some monitors, capture cards, or upscalers…
2. In order to not fry an RT5X or OSSC, should I set the DIP Switches for H&V sync to 75 ohm or 510 ohm?
1. Should handle everything you throw at it. The only downside would be that it requires a clean sync signal for RGB.

2. The switches won't matter. The Crosspoint always outputs TTL sync over RGBS so if you're outputting that to the OSSC/RT5X over SCART you have to bring down the sync level. A 470 ohm resistor will do the trick.
NJRoadfan
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NJRoadfan »

NJRoadfan wrote:CRT repair techs, this question is for you.

Anyone familiar with the Toshiba TIMM? My beloved TIMM has developed a fault in it's horizontal section. I get a scrambled display on all inputs, like if you push the horizontal position pot too far left or right on an old TV. Oddly, the on-screen display still works, but there is a sin wave wobble of varying degree. I'm thinking its something to do with the horizontal oscillator, but CRT fault diagnosis and repair is not something I'm well versed in.

The monitor sat turned off for over a year in a climate controlled environment (my living room). No issues elsewhere with the TV. Vertical deflection, high voltage, input processing all appear to work fine. I have the full service manual and tech training book for the set if needed.
Video of the above problem: https://youtu.be/KqdH2nx1DX8
atohmdiy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by atohmdiy »

[quote="NewSchoolBoxer"][quote="atohmdiy"]Hello,
Just bought a sony bvm A20 to use with the new 68x clone soon available.
I receive it today but i feel a little dumb, i want to power it on but i can't :roll:

I connect the BVM and BKM-15R with ac power cord and set the two switches to peer to peer, then i power on the monitor, the standby led blink for a few second, then keep steady and the operate led is blinking. Pressing the power button on the BKM-15R do not power on the BVM (it stay in this state, standby led steady and operate is blinking). I try several eternet cable (cat 5e ou 6) and ended with a cat5 cable, but the problem is the same. Maybe the BVM need to detect a source to be power on, unfortunatly i have nothing with sdi and the analog board is not available yet. The documentation do not say much.[/quote]

You paid what I assume is over $1000 for an [url=https://pro.sony/en_CZ/products/broadca ... bvm-a20f1m]A20F1M[/url] that handles 720p/1080i and below but without testing to see if it works? I hope you were able to arrange pickup to rule out shipping damage.

Do you have to use the 15R remote? Doesn't the BVM have its own power and menu buttons? I can use the menu on my PVM even though no video source is connected. Is an okay RGB test.

What do you mean the documentation doesn't say much? Professional video monitors have massively detailed [url=https://pro.sony/s3/cms-static-content/ ... 112041.pdf]operation[/url] and [url=https://cdn.retrorgb.com/assets/monitor ... Manual.pdf]service manuals[/url].

I would definitely buy an HDMI -> SDI converter for that.[/quote]

I bought it with insurance and it was very well packaged (palette). It has low running hour and it look like in perfect state.
Problem is i won't buy an expensive HDMI to sdi to only use it once for testing. The behavior of that thing is differant compare to my 20f1e, with it you just press the power and the bvm power up and you can access the menu if you want. As i said i read the A20's manual and it doesn't give any information of the power on procedure.
The bkm 15r should power on the thing but instead it does nothing when i press the power button, the "standby" led is on and the "operate" led is blinking. The operate led in the bkm 15 is also on.
I am asking myself if it's not a problem with the cable I use, i try several ethernet cable and ended up with a cat5 cable, as Sony said in the manual to use a 100mbit cable, i hope it's not a specific kind (sound dumb but who knows).
fernan1234
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by fernan1234 »

atohmdiy wrote:I am asking myself if it's not a problem with the cable I use, i try several ethernet cable and ended up with a cat5 cable, as Sony said in the manual to use a 100mbit cable, i hope it's not a specific kind (sound dumb but who knows).
Any ethernet cable you have around your house will work fine, so this is not the problem at all.

What you said happens after you press the power on button on the control unit sounds like a sign of a failure in the monitor. The standby LED should blink for a few seconds like you said, but after that you should clearly hear the sound of the degauss coil, and you should also hear static sound from the CRT turning on, and visually you should see the screen shifting color for a moment before turning black, and the green operate LED should remain solid, not blinking. At that point the monitor will respond to menu buttons.

If this doesn't happen, it is often that the monitor is failing to properly detect any of the boards connected on the back, either one of the input boards, or the deflection board, or the power board. One of those connections may have gotten loose during transit. Disconnect the monitor from power and try pulling and firmly re-connecting each one of the boards, until you notice a change when trying to turn on the monitor.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by HDgaming42 »

OK, so I did a full cap replacement on a busted up Extron SW VGA/Ars switch. Great news--it worked! Lights lit up and I was able to manually select all 4 inputs.

Took it downstairs half-assembled (there's a stand-off for power where all the caps reside) and plugged it in down there.

POP!! goes the switch. I think the stand-off slid over and made contact with the mainboard. Nothing's visually blown--no black markings--no blown caps but now it doesn't power on. There's no fuse in this unit. I'm struggling to know which component could make such a loud popping sound.

Maybe a capacitor leg grazed one of the ICs? Seeing as I have no electronics knowledge the odds of me sussing this out are pretty slim.

I was feeling like a god after having removed, researched, ordered and then soldered in 6 new caps and having it power on. Now? Not so much...
Wolf_PM
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Wolf_PM »

HDgaming42 wrote:OK, so I did a full cap replacement on a busted up Extron SW VGA/Ars switch. Great news--it worked! Lights lit up and I was able to manually select all 4 inputs.

Took it downstairs half-assembled (there's a stand-off for power where all the caps reside) and plugged it in down there.

POP!! goes the switch. I think the stand-off slid over and made contact with the mainboard. Nothing's visually blown--no black markings--no blown caps but now it doesn't power on. There's no fuse in this unit. I'm struggling to know which component could make such a loud popping sound.

Maybe a capacitor leg grazed one of the ICs? Seeing as I have no electronics knowledge the odds of me sussing this out are pretty slim.

I was feeling like a god after having removed, researched, ordered and then soldered in 8 new caps and having it power on. Now? Not so much...
I'm not sure this would help, but do you have a thermal camera? If you can provide power to the board in some way, you can use a thermal camera to detect a short. I had to do this at work last week and I found that a buffer on my board was put on backwards, popped right up on the thermal camera going up to 50C.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by HDgaming42 »

Wolf_PM wrote:
HDgaming42 wrote:OK, so I did a full cap replacement on a busted up Extron SW VGA/Ars switch. Great news--it worked! Lights lit up and I was able to manually select all 4 inputs.

Took it downstairs half-assembled (there's a stand-off for power where all the caps reside) and plugged it in down there.

POP!! goes the switch. I think the stand-off slid over and made contact with the mainboard. Nothing's visually blown--no black markings--no blown caps but now it doesn't power on. There's no fuse in this unit. I'm struggling to know which component could make such a loud popping sound.

Maybe a capacitor leg grazed one of the ICs? Seeing as I have no electronics knowledge the odds of me sussing this out are pretty slim.

I was feeling like a god after having removed, researched, ordered and then soldered in 8 new caps and having it power on. Now? Not so much...
I'm not sure this would help, but do you have a thermal camera? If you can provide power to the board in some way, you can use a thermal camera to detect a short. I had to do this at work last week and I found that a buffer on my board was put on backwards, popped right up on the thermal camera going up to 50C.
An interesting idea! I believe i can borrow one from our local library...
Bassa-Bassa
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Bassa-Bassa »

Any suggestion for a low-budget HD-ready 32-inch TV with low lag and decent game mode (capable of 1:1 mapping) in European markets? No need for too many extras/picture enhancement features (nor even for smart capabilities), but I'd love if it had VGA and ethernet inputs.

Thanks.
atohmdiy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by atohmdiy »

fernan1234 wrote:
atohmdiy wrote:I am asking myself if it's not a problem with the cable I use, i try several ethernet cable and ended up with a cat5 cable, as Sony said in the manual to use a 100mbit cable, i hope it's not a specific kind (sound dumb but who knows).
Any ethernet cable you have around your house will work fine, so this is not the problem at all.

What you said happens after you press the power on button on the control unit sounds like a sign of a failure in the monitor. The standby LED should blink for a few seconds like you said, but after that you should clearly hear the sound of the degauss coil, and you should also hear static sound from the CRT turning on, and visually you should see the screen shifting color for a moment before turning black, and the green operate LED should remain solid, not blinking. At that point the monitor will respond to menu buttons.

If this doesn't happen, it is often that the monitor is failing to properly detect any of the boards connected on the back, either one of the input boards, or the deflection board, or the power board. One of those connections may have gotten loose during transit. Disconnect the monitor from power and try pulling and firmly re-connecting each one of the boards, until you notice a change when trying to turn on the monitor.
I will do as you said, here is a video to show the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUO93IYvmeM
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

ross wrote:Question for PC CRT users, has anyone compared the quality of different options for converting component to VGA? Wondering whether good analogue solutions produce a better/worse/identical image in practice to A -> D -> A solutions. And in the latter case, whether a bog standard component to HDMI converter will produce equivalent results to an OSSC for the more standard video signals of sixth-gen consoles.
Component into an OSSC with a *good* HDMI to VGA on output will look damn good.

As far as a straight-up component to VGA transcoder, the linuxbot3000 ones are probably the best readily-available ones right now. As a whole, most component to VGAs are gonna be damn similar: they are all most likely gonna have a LMH1251 and similar circuitry in 'em. The Mayflash one is very similar to the linuxbot one, it just most likely requires a simple mod... but those are getting harder to find now!

https://www.js-technology.com/store/ind ... er=product

^ This is a good lesser-known one. He's eventually releasing one that also has RGB SCART out in addition to VGA, but IDK when that will be done.
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Galdelico
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Galdelico »

Hi everyone.

I'd like to upgrade my OSSC-dedicated, retro display, from the 1080p VG275 Asus TN monitor I'm currently using, to whatever 1440p/4k solution might be the most recommended, at the moment.

I see some old caveats/limitations are still in place today - like temporary flicker-retention on IPS screens caused by flashing 2D graphics (I noticed it last night, after playing 5 minutes of ACA NeoGeo Fatal Fury Special on my brand new Swtich Lite) - so I wonder if you guys have some recommendations, in tems of technology, brands etc.
Back then - I got my Asus in 2018-ish - VA panels seemed to be the way to go, as a good compromise between the versatility of TN monitors and the visual accuracy of the IPS ones.

Thank you all so much in advance! ^_-
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Gunstar
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Gunstar »

I have some KINGBO Lead-Free Solder Flux Paste that comes in a tub and was wondering if I could use a syringe to apply it, would that work, or would it get all gummed up? Thanks!
GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

Just picked up a new (to me) CRT from Craigslist but the speakers are blown. Can anyone recommend a pair of decent, inexpensive PC speakers that are properly shielded? The TV has analog RCA audio out so I suppose I could use a 3.5 to RCA Y-cable.
Guile
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

GojiFan90 wrote:Just picked up a new (to me) CRT from Craigslist but the speakers are blown. Can anyone recommend a pair of decent, inexpensive PC speakers that are properly shielded? The TV has analog RCA audio out so I suppose I could use a 3.5 to RCA Y-cable.
I used some really cheap Logitech S120 speakers but they have an orange light and turn on with a knob so unless you power it on and off you have to adjust the volume. They're pretty good for simple audio though and only $12.
Guile
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

Is anyone familiar with overscan on Panasonic tvs? I was using an hdmi splitter and extender and I noticed overscan on older lcd and plasma Panasonic tvs. I looked in the menus but I don't see overscan adjustment options.

It's weird because some things like an xbox 360 or ps3 don't have overscan on them. Xbox One X and PS4 do show overscan though.

I'm wondering if there is some way to use a fast scaler to adjust it if the tv can't.
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orange808
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by orange808 »

My Life in Gaming took a swing at reviewing the BenQ-TK700STi beamer recently and I thought they did a nice job acknowledging they were dipping their toes into a rather deep rabbit hole hobby.

I've been considering picking up a TK700STi to play with and I stumbled onto a hilarious review from another outlet.

This had me rolling in tears laughing:
https://www.techradar.com/reviews/benq- ... -projector
"While the gaming monitor market likes to promote the advantages of 1ms response rates, you’re getting nowhere near that with the TK700STi: in 4K it has a 16ms response time, while it can hit 8ms in 1080p.

It can’t be stressed enough, though, that these response times on a projector are very novel indeed, and given this is a projector with native 4K you’re not going to find better than this performance at the moment. All but a small number of inveterate competitive gamers (or dyed in the wool pedants) are going to notice any input lag. Basically, you’re probably not going to get better performance than this."
Which gaming monitor is 1000Hz? I assume we're talking 1ms refresh? Wait! What are we talking about??? lmao! Please stop! You're killing me! rotflmao!

"Response time"? Reminds me of Idiocracy. "What are electrolytes? Do you even know?" *snicker*

Yes. I'm being a bully, but this tickled me.

Here's a real professional review from a person that's qualified to write one:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-T ... Review.htm
We apologise for the inconvenience
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

Guile wrote:Is anyone familiar with overscan on Panasonic tvs? I was using an hdmi splitter and extender and I noticed overscan on older lcd and plasma Panasonic tvs. I looked in the menus but I don't see overscan adjustment options.

It's weird because some things like an xbox 360 or ps3 don't have overscan on them. Xbox One X and PS4 do show overscan though.

I'm wondering if there is some way to use a fast scaler to adjust it if the tv can't.
On my Panasonic plasma there's 2 options in the video settings for HDMI inputs / overscan, one shows 95% of the image and the other shows 100%. Then of course there is the aspect ratio/zoom control on the remote. PS4 lets you adjust the screen area in the display settings, also.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

GojiFan90 wrote:Just picked up a new (to me) CRT from Craigslist but the speakers are blown. Can anyone recommend a pair of decent, inexpensive PC speakers that are properly shielded? The TV has analog RCA audio out so I suppose I could use a 3.5 to RCA Y-cable.
The best in PC speakers deals I've seen in a while was the klipsch 2.1 set going for like ~70 at walmart a month ago? Might see if those are still around.
Guile
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

kitty666cats wrote:
On my Panasonic plasma there's 2 options in the video settings for HDMI inputs / overscan, one shows 95% of the image and the other shows 100%. Then of course there is the aspect ratio/zoom control on the remote. PS4 lets you adjust the screen area in the display settings, also.
Thanks, I found the setting on the plasma and it fixed it. The lcd doesn't have this option though and it looks like you can only reduce it to about 1-2% overscan in the service menu.

I tried the ps4 display setting too but it doesn't seem to affect game display area.

It's weird I used to have the ps4 hooked up directly to the lcd and I don't remember seeing overscan.
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