shmups.system11.org

Shmups Forum
 
* FAQ    * Search
 * Register  * Login 
It is currently Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:30 pm View unanswered posts
View active topics



Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6097 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196 ... 204  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:46 pm 



Joined: 12 Aug 2017
Posts: 264
maxtherabbit wrote:
I've read several threads discussing the issue on the dreamcast, but I thought it was odd that the other "old" consoles seem to be doing the exact same thing - the bars appear to be the same width and everything. But when I switch over to the "modern" lol original xbox it fills the 4:3 area perfectly.


Saturn and Mega Drive have borders as well. Neo Geo also has them, maybe a bit smaller. Some 2D Saturn games have very little borders. For DonPachi you can set an 'RGB Monitor' option and the it actually uses the entire frame. How fancy of them to basically include a 'PVM mode'. The only old console that has virtually no unused space is strangely enough the PC Engine.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:31 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 144
ASDR wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:
I've read several threads discussing the issue on the dreamcast, but I thought it was odd that the other "old" consoles seem to be doing the exact same thing - the bars appear to be the same width and everything. But when I switch over to the "modern" lol original xbox it fills the 4:3 area perfectly.


Saturn and Mega Drive have borders as well. Neo Geo also has them, maybe a bit smaller. Some 2D Saturn games have very little borders. For DonPachi you can set an 'RGB Monitor' option and the it actually uses the entire frame. How fancy of them to basically include a 'PVM mode'. The only old console that has virtually no unused space is strangely enough the PC Engine.

interesting - so it's basically a built-in overscan compensation for consumer CRTs I guess


Top
 Online Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:45 pm 



Joined: 02 Mar 2017
Posts: 542
maxtherabbit wrote:
I've read several threads discussing the issue on the dreamcast, but I thought it was odd that the other "old" consoles seem to be doing the exact same thing - the bars appear to be the same width and everything. But when I switch over to the "modern" lol original xbox it fills the 4:3 area perfectly.


Every console is going to have a slightly different width and height of it's picture - it's all about the hardware handles the video signal slightly differently from another console.

Normally, on an old-school CRT TV, you would never see any of this black area on the sides because the image was actually LARGER than what you were able to view on screen - so some small areas on all sides was in reality being cut off, and that slight area on the sides is called overscan (and built into most games) to compensate for this. This let most sources displayed on your old CRT look good.

On your plasma (I'm assuming this is a professional model of some sort from a while ago if you're running low-res SD content on it), and other professional grade CRT monitors like Sony PVM and BVM's we MUCH more commonly see the very edges of the picture (what was normally hidden by that overscan area) and we get pillarboxing (black bars, usually on the sides). The easy solution is to simply adjust the image of your monitor/TV/Plasma so it stretches the image all the way left to right so the screen is completely filled...

...the problem with this, as I first mentioned, is not all consoles are created equal - so what is a nice full-screen image on one console can leave a little bit of black on the left, or the right, or both on another console. You then adjust your monitor for that console and the other console can have important things like life bars and such cut off...you'll have to find a decent medium which works for all, and yes, it is a PITA.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:22 pm 



Joined: 12 Aug 2017
Posts: 264
Do I need lead-free solder if I do modwork on recent consoles etc.? I have a few different kinds of leaded solder, the usual 60/40 stuff, with flux, some have a bit of copper / silver in there as well. Don't really know much about the differences, seems to produce good joints just fine. More recent, non-retro consoles will use lead-free solder. I've heard you shouldn't mix solder chemistries. So if I were to do a repair job, replace some components, attach wires to terminals/pads, reflow a cracked connector etc., would I have problems if I use my usual types of leaded solder? Do I absolutely need to either use lead-free solder or thoroughly clean pads & terminals before I use leaded solder on these PCBs?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:48 pm 



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 433
ASDR wrote:
Do I need lead-free solder if I do modwork on recent consoles etc.? I have a few different kinds of leaded solder, the usual 60/40 stuff, with flux, some have a bit of copper / silver in there as well. Don't really know much about the differences, seems to produce good joints just fine. More recent, non-retro consoles will use lead-free solder. I've heard you shouldn't mix solder chemistries. So if I were to do a repair job, replace some components, attach wires to terminals/pads, reflow a cracked connector etc., would I have problems if I use my usual types of leaded solder? Do I absolutely need to either use lead-free solder or thoroughly clean pads & terminals before I use leaded solder on these PCBs?

voultar mentions precisely this in his latest YouTube video (NESRGB install). Basically, no, you should not mix chemistries, in that you should not be adding leaded to unleaded, or vice versa, to install a component; however, there's no problem mixing if the goal is to clean and completely redo the joint. Once you clean the existing solder out of the joint, you can use whatever kind you want.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 10:22 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 144
nmalinoski wrote:
ASDR wrote:
Do I need lead-free solder if I do modwork on recent consoles etc.? I have a few different kinds of leaded solder, the usual 60/40 stuff, with flux, some have a bit of copper / silver in there as well. Don't really know much about the differences, seems to produce good joints just fine. More recent, non-retro consoles will use lead-free solder. I've heard you shouldn't mix solder chemistries. So if I were to do a repair job, replace some components, attach wires to terminals/pads, reflow a cracked connector etc., would I have problems if I use my usual types of leaded solder? Do I absolutely need to either use lead-free solder or thoroughly clean pads & terminals before I use leaded solder on these PCBs?

voultar mentions precisely this in his latest YouTube video (NESRGB install). Basically, no, you should not mix chemistries, in that you should not be adding leaded to unleaded, or vice versa, to install a component; however, there's no problem mixing if the goal is to clean and completely redo the joint. Once you clean the existing solder out of the joint, you can use whatever kind you want.

I strongly recommend just sucking all the existing solder out of lead-free joints and using leaded solder in it's place - lead-free sucks nuts to work with


Top
 Online Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:01 pm 



Joined: 12 Aug 2017
Posts: 264
All right, that's what I thought. I'd of course prefer to work with leaded solder, all the videos & pictures I've seen of lead-free makes me not want to touch it. One more Q, though. Often when you desolder, you start by adding fresh solder to a joint. Or when you want to remove two-terminal SMD components you add plenty of solder so you can quickly heat both terminals and get the component off the board. I guess I'd need some lead-free solder for that, before I wick up everything and start fresh with leaded solder?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:34 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 144
ASDR wrote:
All right, that's what I thought. I'd of course prefer to work with leaded solder, all the videos & pictures I've seen of lead-free makes me not want to touch it. One more Q, though. Often when you desolder, you start by adding fresh solder to a joint. Or when you want to remove two-terminal SMD components you add plenty of solder so you can quickly heat both terminals and get the component off the board. I guess I'd need some lead-free solder for that, before I wick up everything and start fresh with leaded solder?

no, you can mix them temporarily - it doesn't matter if you're going to clean the joint after removing the component


Top
 Online Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 12:56 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 144
should I expect to see jailbars on a genesis 2 (VA3) + 32x + YPrPb cable?


Top
 Online Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 4:58 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 15 Jun 2013
Posts: 18
I got a PVM 14L5 today for free from my local CBC station. After two weeks of waiting to see what the nice lady who works in engineering could find, that's what she got. She said it powers on but warned me she didn't know how long it would last. Well when I got it home and powered it on, I saw no picture. None of the buttons I press on the front, save for degauss, make anything appear on the screen. I hooked up my SNES with composite and s-video (it's all I have at the moment) and I can hear audio but that's it. I don't consider myself a newbie when it comes to CRTs but I certainly know that I don't have the knowledge of most people on this board so humour me in my next question: is this something that can be fixed by adjusting the flyback? I popped off the case and I can see where the pots are on it.

Really hoping someone can help with this. I was so pumped for this but now I'm so disappointed.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:25 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 09 Apr 2014
Posts: 1104
Step one, don't touch stuff inside.

Step two, take photos of everything. Take more.

Step three, get lucky with someone here being able to help.

I had a monitor come DOA and I went through the same range of emotions (except I'd paid $200). It turned out that as they shipped it upside down, the flyback's weight cracked the board around it so no power was getting out. I soldered jumper wires around and I got a screen.

When you power it on do you hear a pop/sizzle sound of a CRT starting up? You said pressing degauss makes the screen move, that implies you're getting power to the screen at least.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:07 am 


User avatar

Joined: 15 Jun 2013
Posts: 18
Einzelherz wrote:
Step one, don't touch stuff inside.

Step two, take photos of everything. Take more.

Step three, get lucky with someone here being able to help.

I had a monitor come DOA and I went through the same range of emotions (except I'd paid $200). It turned out that as they shipped it upside down, the flyback's weight cracked the board around it so no power was getting out. I soldered jumper wires around and I got a screen.

When you power it on do you hear a pop/sizzle sound of a CRT starting up? You said pressing degauss makes the screen move, that implies you're getting power to the screen at least.


If I had paid $200 and it didn't work, I'm be irritable for months.

When I power it on, I do hear the sound you're describing. I guess the degauss sound is part of that. When said the degauss button works, I mean it makes the sound. I don't see anything happening on the tube.

I haven't google'd this as of this typing but could I buy a probe to measure large amounts of voltage and confirm that voltage is reaching the correct places?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:26 am 


User avatar

Joined: 09 Aug 2017
Posts: 835
Location: Australia
Can you hear the classic high voltage noise a flyback makes?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:02 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 09 Apr 2014
Posts: 1104
Off the top of my head it sounds like the tube is not getting power. Does any static form on the front of the screen?

If you have the case off you can do a visual check at the back of the tube to see if you notice any glow near the guns.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:56 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 15 Jun 2013
Posts: 18
Syntax wrote:
Can you hear the classic high voltage noise a flyback makes?


I'm not sure. Is it a low buzzing sound? If so, then yes.

Einzelherz wrote:
Off the top of my head it sounds like the tube is not getting power. Does any static form on the front of the screen?

If you have the case off you can do a visual check at the back of the tube to see if you notice any glow near the guns.


Yes, there is static on the front. I never noticed any glow around the guns but a user on the subreddit r/crtgaming says that with the Sony models, it is not very apparent. I haven't yet had the time to put it in a dark room and turn the set on.

I was really keen on buying a probe to pinpoint where the problem was but holy heck, a Fluke brand 40kV probe is $240! WOW! And I thought getting the best picture quality out of a game console was expensive - troubleshooting CRTs are another problem!


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:39 am 


User avatar

Joined: 09 Apr 2014
Posts: 1104
A $15 voltmeter from literally anywhere will suffice.

That you're getting static on the front of the tube is a good sign.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:48 pm 



Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 47
I was thinking to clean (whiten) my yellowed crt pc monitor (eizo f77s https://www.quantelectronic.de/Monitore ... _16730.htm ) but I have never took the the whole casing off a crt tv/monitor. Ofc the back side is easy but what about the front bezel + buttons (they are big so they need to be whitened also). Is it very difficult to remove the front bezel?

Thanks in advance!


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 6:54 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 240
Make sure you're aware of the risks of poking around inside CRTs before you open it up.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:51 pm 



Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 47
Yeah that's why I m asking if it easy to find the screws for the front bezel or not. I know is dangerous if you touch certain things.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:01 pm 



Joined: 07 Feb 2018
Posts: 92
Location: Austria
I was using a simple Composite Cable with japanese import Saturn, but now as a proud owner of the framemeister I want to upgrade to S-Video or RGB Scart. Can somebody recommend a good RgB Scart or S Video cable for the Japanese Saturn. And is it worth to upgrade to RGB or would be S-video enough?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:47 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 240
Retrogamingcables.co.uk is the common suggestion from Europe. People are also saying good things about thefoo.83 on eBay, who appears to be based in Poland.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 6:49 am 



Joined: 07 Feb 2018
Posts: 92
Location: Austria
Kez wrote:
Retrogamingcables.co.uk is the common suggestion from Europe. People are also saying good things about thefoo.83 on eBay, who appears to be based in Poland.


thanks for the reply. Yes the thefoo.83 on ebay has some nice stuff, but there is no saturn RGB Scart cable in stock at the moment just an S Video cable. Maybe I get one of these.


Retro Gaming cables has some nice stuff as well. But they have lots of RGB Scart cables. and the Sync stuff is a bit confusing. Will every sync type work with the Framemeister ? Or is CSYNC better than Sync on Luma better for the Framemeister?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:06 am 


User avatar

Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 240
If you have a PAL Saturn get Sync on Luma


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:17 am 



Joined: 07 Feb 2018
Posts: 92
Location: Austria
Kez wrote:
If you have a PAL Saturn get Sync on Luma

I have a japanese ntsc saturn. Is Synch on Luma still a good choice?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:36 am 


User avatar

Joined: 20 Jul 2017
Posts: 240
In that case an NTSC csync cable is probably the best choice overall, but Luma will also do the job.

This one will be fine:
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega/saturn/sega-saturn-rgb-av-scart-ntsc-cable-tv-lead-cord-for-sale

Or the one with extra shielding with the NTSC CSYNC option:
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/packapunch-range/Saturn-packapunch/SEGA-SATURN-RGB-SCART-PACKAPUNCH-PRO-CABLE

Just bear in mind that using a cable wired for csync on a PAL system sends 12V out on the sync pin and can damage your upscaler/TV/switch or whatever you plug it into, so you need to be extra careful with it if you have PAL systems around.

On RetroGamingCables, any csync cable that says "Built in Sync Separator" or the like is not really worth it for the Framemeister. That means the cable is designed for a console that doesn't natively output csync (e.g. PAL Saturn, PAL Gamecube) and they put a circuit in the SCART head to strip another form of sync (Luma or Composite Video). This doesn't really do anything beneficial on devices that don't require csync, like the FM. Otherwise, csync is a pretty safe bet.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 9:02 am 



Joined: 07 Feb 2018
Posts: 92
Location: Austria
Thank a lot for the answer.

And good to know that I need to be careful when using Csynch cables when using them on pal Systems. This information is useful for the future. In the future I also want to upgrade my Gamecube from composite to RGB Scart and retro gaming cables seem to be a good choice again for that. They are way cheaper than the orginal Nintendo RGB cables that are supposed After my RGB Mod for the N64 is done I also need an RGB cable for the N64.


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:25 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2013
Posts: 6185
Location: Craig's
Need a quick blind diagnosis please:

What's the problem of a Super Nintendo which picture fades to black like 3 seconds after power on ?

(game plays, I hear the sound just fine)

PSU and cable seem fine, same result on all displays.
_________________
mycophobia wrote:
have tyou ever played dodponpatchi


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:31 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 11158
Location: Germany
NTSC cables on a PAL system or vice versa - the caps are the issue.


Top
 Online Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:35 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 2013
Posts: 6185
Location: Craig's
Mmh, it's a PAL FR (non-modded) with its scart cable, I have another scart cable which is 3rd party and same effect...

It's happening on my crt tvs as well as on the OSSC.

(dead caps on the mobo?)

EDIT: well I've managed to dig out a nintendo av composite cable from the dephts of my shit, and it works perfectly with it.

Does that mean that both my scart cables are shit/dead ? Or that something else needed for RGB output is damaged ? (component pcb-side or a pin in the av connector maybe)

EDIT2: ok my genuine rgb calead le (fr version) triggers the fading to black, and my third party scart lead which happens to have a switch to select between RGB and composite, triggers it too when on 'rgb' but works on 'av' position.
I really don't understand how that can happen unless something necessary to proper RGB output is fucked somewhere.
Again I'm not using any non-PAL stuff at all.

EDIT3: ok I think I've got it: my genuine pal fr lead is broken somewhere, and the third party seems to be aimed at the N64 and GC rather than the snes, and I've read it doesn't pass the needed luminance.
conclusion: I have to fix the genuine scart lead or buy a new one. :arrow:

*wheez*
_________________
mycophobia wrote:
have tyou ever played dodponpatchi


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:57 pm 


User avatar

Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 675
Location: Italy
Xyga - I've got a PAL SNES scart cable wired for sync on luma. Bought from thefoo.83 maybe around one year ago. I have no use for it, pay for the shipping it's yours.

---

I've bridged the green power on cable with ground on an ATX psu I have here. When I plug it to the wall the fan spins for maybe half a second and then it stops. No voltage coming from the pins. Is it dead or what?

Edit: I've got another thing to ask - I keep reading that voltages should be measured under load. How is that supposed to be done? Let's say I want to test a PSU that I want to use for arcade boards (PSU has no adjustable voltages), and that the board is a bitch that only wants voltages really close to 5 and 3.3. PSU outputs 5.25 and 3.47v from the pins (my tester was cheap and probably has a 5% variance). Wouldn't powering on the pcb with it and measuring the voltage somewhere on the board be a risky business?


Top
 Offline Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6097 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196 ... 204  Next

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: jappiejappo, maxtherabbit and 10 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Space Pilot 3K template by Jakob Persson
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group