Questions that do not deserve a thread
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So I got a Core Grafx II "untested" from Japan that I can't really test yet because I don't have a video cable.
I tried to just stick some wires from another AV cable into the video socket, along with ground, and didn't get any video. Maybe the system need to detect the outer barrel ground before it passes video? Or maybe my wires weren't making good enough contact.
Anyway, I noticed the connector was loose, so I opened it up to check the solder connections. Those seemed fine, but I noticed there was some dried brown liquid on the whole motherboard.
At first, I assumed the liquid was something that had spilled in the system. But when I looked at the both halves of the plastic shell, I saw no other signs of liquid spillage. So I guess I should assume the liquid on the was flux from some attempted repair years ago?
EDIT: Well I just watched this gadgetUK video and his system also had a lot of flux-like residue all over the board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNJIRL1YYL4
Very weird. Were they just super sloppy in the factory?
I tried to just stick some wires from another AV cable into the video socket, along with ground, and didn't get any video. Maybe the system need to detect the outer barrel ground before it passes video? Or maybe my wires weren't making good enough contact.
Anyway, I noticed the connector was loose, so I opened it up to check the solder connections. Those seemed fine, but I noticed there was some dried brown liquid on the whole motherboard.
At first, I assumed the liquid was something that had spilled in the system. But when I looked at the both halves of the plastic shell, I saw no other signs of liquid spillage. So I guess I should assume the liquid on the was flux from some attempted repair years ago?
EDIT: Well I just watched this gadgetUK video and his system also had a lot of flux-like residue all over the board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNJIRL1YYL4
Very weird. Were they just super sloppy in the factory?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Genesis 1 AV cables should work if you have some of those.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Only place I could find some of those was at the local game shop and for $15 lol.jd213 wrote:Genesis 1 AV cables should work if you have some of those.
Since I'm going to be replacing it with a Sega Saturn connector soon (for TurboNanza s-video/RGB mod), I don't want to drop $15 on cables I'll only use for a couple days.
Last edited by BazookaBen on Sat Jun 03, 2023 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So I got my Nintendo 64 modded with the N64Digital mod using the no-cut method. One of the steps in installing the no-cut version is removing the bottom RF Shield. Will this negatively affect the motherboard or video/audio quality?
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Update: Core Grafx 2 works great. I just soldered wires to the corresponding points under the AV connector and everything works. Now I just hope the Turbonanza comes soon so I can end this ghetto rigged setup
Still wondering what is up with all that nasty (what I'm assuming is) flux on the board
Still wondering what is up with all that nasty (what I'm assuming is) flux on the board
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Does anyone know of any good automatic S-Video switchers?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
here is my upcoming design for dreamcast (besides 18650 battery mod board for clock i posted earlier):
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it is a universal AC 100-230v high quality, low noise, low heat power supply. won't be very cheap but certainly affordable.
my question is: is this needed in the community the way I think it is?
I mean people are buying crappy PSU replacement from aliexpress with 5$ wall adapter..etc. but this is a true solution.
expected retail price is 80-100$, honestly, do you think it is good pricing? it will cost a lot to make since all components are of high quality down to smallest irrelevant cap. AC protection is of medical grade quality and certification too.
img
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it is a universal AC 100-230v high quality, low noise, low heat power supply. won't be very cheap but certainly affordable.
my question is: is this needed in the community the way I think it is?
I mean people are buying crappy PSU replacement from aliexpress with 5$ wall adapter..etc. but this is a true solution.
expected retail price is 80-100$, honestly, do you think it is good pricing? it will cost a lot to make since all components are of high quality down to smallest irrelevant cap. AC protection is of medical grade quality and certification too.
img
Last edited by VEGETA on Wed Jun 14, 2023 1:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have an old Sony one (may be manual pushbutton) that is great quality. You are welcome to it for cost of shipping.Ikaruga11 wrote:Does anyone know of any good automatic S-Video switchers?
A camel is a horse designed by a committee
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Does anyone know of any PS3, PS4 or Xbox 360 controller to GameCube adapters?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
BlueRetro works with PS3, PS4 and PS5 controllers (and many other bluetooth controllers). You can get a BlueRetro internal mod for GC, or do DIY dongles or I think some dongles are out or coming out soon.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks, but I forgot to specify wired. I’m using a Titan One to send controller inputs from PC (from a New 3DS XL) and it requires a wired connection.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Consolizing MVS: So on my MV1F board I see there is a "speaker" connector, and a "headphone" connector
Is "speaker" line-level audio, or is that amplified to be hooked up to a pair of speakers?
The consolizations I've seen were all using "headphone", so I'm guessing the latter.
And I'm not as much of a Sega head as a lot of people here. My Genesis and Saturn collection is quite small, and Dreamcast is only a handful of games with another couple handfuls of burned discs.
Is "speaker" line-level audio, or is that amplified to be hooked up to a pair of speakers?
The consolizations I've seen were all using "headphone", so I'm guessing the latter.
If I was having PSU problems with my Dreacast (maybe I am already and didn't notice), and cheaper solutions gave poor video or audio output (noise, jailbars, whatever), then I would probably end up biting the bullet to get yours. But that's a bunch of if's.VEGETA wrote:
expected retail price is 80-100$, honestly, do you think it is good pricing?
And I'm not as much of a Sega head as a lot of people here. My Genesis and Saturn collection is quite small, and Dreamcast is only a handful of games with another couple handfuls of burned discs.
Home theater receivers from late 90's/early 00's sometimes have a ton of S-video inputs. And they go for under $50 on Facebook Marketplace. Goodwill has them frequently as wellIkaruga11 wrote:Does anyone know of any good automatic S-Video switchers?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have maybe 7 Dreamcasts. I've had several more over the years and I think only one or two, at least 5 years ago, had what I think was a PSU problem (system reset at random).
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If a video game console like the PS1 outputs 24-bit color, and an HDMI device like an Extron HDMI Switcher or HD Fury 3 only support "10-bit Deep Color" and 12-bit Deep Color" over HDMI, am I only getting 10-bit color for PS1, etc. when transferring through HDMI on those devices?
Do analog switchers and devices have color bit depth limits?
PS1 24-bit Color: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth_gen ... e_consoles
Extron DXP HDMI: https://www.extron.com/product/dxphdmi
HD Fury 3: https://hdfury.com/product/hd-fury-x3/
Do analog switchers and devices have color bit depth limits?
PS1 24-bit Color: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth_gen ... e_consoles
Extron DXP HDMI: https://www.extron.com/product/dxphdmi
HD Fury 3: https://hdfury.com/product/hd-fury-x3/
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
24-bit color is 8-bit per channel. 10-bit color is 10-bits per channel.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
which solutions did you try? maybe some can be good.If I was having PSU problems with my Dreacast (maybe I am already and didn't notice), and cheaper solutions gave poor video or audio output (noise, jailbars, whatever), then I would probably end up biting the bullet to get yours. But that's a bunch of if's.
There are very cheap AC power supplies for it exactly like original but from China and I didn't try them... not trustworthy
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've realized my Sega CD has a lot of noise/ground hum in the audio output when I'm using it. Genesis/MD carts are fine, it's just when a CD game is being played.
I have a triple bypass installed, do I maybe need to re-route my CD audio wires? Or switch to using some kind of fancy shielded wire for them? I just used some stranded hookup wire I had. Or is the CD just inherently noisy?
I have a triple bypass installed, do I maybe need to re-route my CD audio wires? Or switch to using some kind of fancy shielded wire for them? I just used some stranded hookup wire I had. Or is the CD just inherently noisy?
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I haven't had this happen to me. What's your setup? My setup is a Genesis 1 on a Sega CD 2, with the audio routed around to the headphone jack of the Genesis 1.bobrocks95 wrote:I've realized my Sega CD has a lot of noise/ground hum in the audio output when I'm using it. Genesis/MD carts are fine, it's just when a CD game is being played.
I have a triple bypass installed, do I maybe need to re-route my CD audio wires? Or switch to using some kind of fancy shielded wire for them? I just used some stranded hookup wire I had. Or is the CD just inherently noisy?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Genesis 2, CD 2. The Genesis 2's board routing is terrible so I don't know if it's a stock problem or a triple bypass install problem. I bought the metal plate piece that goes under the Genesis with prongs into the edge connector but that didn't make a difference. The noise seemed similar on the CD 2's RCA outputs as well.SavagePencil wrote:I haven't had this happen to me. What's your setup? My setup is a Genesis 1 on a Sega CD 2, with the audio routed around to the headphone jack of the Genesis 1.bobrocks95 wrote:I've realized my Sega CD has a lot of noise/ground hum in the audio output when I'm using it. Genesis/MD carts are fine, it's just when a CD game is being played.
I have a triple bypass installed, do I maybe need to re-route my CD audio wires? Or switch to using some kind of fancy shielded wire for them? I just used some stranded hookup wire I had. Or is the CD just inherently noisy?
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
My guess would be some corroded grounding on some internal circuit if the Sega CD itself is letting out background noises. I don't own one but I can't imagine it's supposed to be like that.
Are there any Sega CD games that play only PCM routed through the Genesis' soundchip?
Are there any Sega CD games that play only PCM routed through the Genesis' soundchip?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Here's a recording, please forgive the 16:9 capture and blatantly wrong OSSC settings- it sounds like a microphone being scratched, and the video feed seems to also fluctuate in brightness as the disc is read? Then once in-game there's a loud buzzing sound. Again the Genesis end is fine this is only when booting from the CD unit.Einzelherz wrote:My guess would be some corroded grounding on some internal circuit if the Sega CD itself is letting out background noises. I don't own one but I can't imagine it's supposed to be like that.
Are there any Sega CD games that play only PCM routed through the Genesis' soundchip?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bea5XD ... sp=sharing
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
hello
i am designing a nice device that part of it outputs sync signals (c, h, v) from both scart and vga using lmh1980 as stripper. I want to use ths7374 as buffer to output the syncs but as you know vga h and v are 5v, which could make problem.
I want to convert all these signals to 75 ohm level, what type of resistor and circuit should i use with ths7374? with injecting it in Y signal for ypbpr circuit as well?
should i use ac coupling or dc coupling for ths7374 ?
Update:
I ended up putting 470R resistor in series with VGA H and VGA V, as well as, for VGA Csync (from sync combiner circuit). after that it should be ok regardless of how it is switched or routed since final destination will be at 75R terminator at sink device.
I also put 470R at the outputs of LMH1980 since in the datasheet I read that the output will be ttl level when using 5v rail like my case.
i am designing a nice device that part of it outputs sync signals (c, h, v) from both scart and vga using lmh1980 as stripper. I want to use ths7374 as buffer to output the syncs but as you know vga h and v are 5v, which could make problem.
I want to convert all these signals to 75 ohm level, what type of resistor and circuit should i use with ths7374? with injecting it in Y signal for ypbpr circuit as well?
should i use ac coupling or dc coupling for ths7374 ?
Update:
I ended up putting 470R resistor in series with VGA H and VGA V, as well as, for VGA Csync (from sync combiner circuit). after that it should be ok regardless of how it is switched or routed since final destination will be at 75R terminator at sink device.
I also put 470R at the outputs of LMH1980 since in the datasheet I read that the output will be ttl level when using 5v rail like my case.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Will a Gefen VGA to DVI Scaler Plus do simple transcoding if input and output resolutions are the same, or is additional processing applied?
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I picked up a Sony A90J last month and have been quite happy with it. But while I was shopping and researching I had to learn about the different forms of OLED tvs.
What struck me as odd is that QD-OLED is just like... basically a regular full grid LED backlit LCD technology? Instead of white backlighting and an LCD sheet though, it's a blue backlight and a static RGB (kinda) filter in front? If my reading of it was correct it felt kind of like a hybrid between the two techs?
What struck me as odd is that QD-OLED is just like... basically a regular full grid LED backlit LCD technology? Instead of white backlighting and an LCD sheet though, it's a blue backlight and a static RGB (kinda) filter in front? If my reading of it was correct it felt kind of like a hybrid between the two techs?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
QD-OLED uses blue OLED instead of white OLED, and it uses a quantum dot sheet instead of a color filter like white OLEDs. it's still OLED because the light source is the OLED sheet, but the dot layer is able to let more light through than the older technology's color filter layerEinzelherz wrote:I picked up a Sony A90J last month and have been quite happy with it. But while I was shopping and researching I had to learn about the different forms of OLED tvs.
What struck me as odd is that QD-OLED is just like... basically a regular full grid LED backlit LCD technology? Instead of white backlighting and an LCD sheet though, it's a blue backlight and a static RGB (kinda) filter in front? If my reading of it was correct it felt kind of like a hybrid between the two techs?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
no, it's the same processing pipeline either way, so you get the same processing delay no matter if your input/output resolutions match or not.Will a Gefen VGA to DVI Scaler Plus do simple transcoding if input and output resolutions are the same, or is additional processing applied?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Sad to hear, I ordered a component to HDMI transcoder to hold me over unit my OSSC arrives.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/release-fak ... rs.601771/
There’s no shortage of Bluetooth adapters, but for wired controllers, the only thing I could find is this Wii homebrew “Fakemote” which allow you to plug DS3 and 4 controllers directly into the USB port. Haven’t tested yet.SGGG2 wrote:Does anyone know of any PS3, PS4 or Xbox 360 controller to GameCube adapters?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/release-fak ... rs.601771/
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
So I just got my BVM D24 set up and the picture is really dim and washed out. Am I supposed to view this in a completely dark room? It's uncalibrated. Maybe I can make it brighter and more colorful by having it professionally calibrated, recapping it, adjusting the G2 voltage, change my signal chain setup, and/or simply view it in a dark room?
Signal chain is: Recapped Wii Dual -> New HDMI Cable -> Like-New Extron HDMI Switcher -> New HDMI Cable -> New HD Fury 3 -> New VGA Cable -> New Extron RGB 203 Rxi -> Retro Access RGBS BNC Cable -> BVM D24 (285 hours)
I'm wondering why the picture is s dim and washed out. Possibilities:
1. The BVM is old and might need recapped to output a brighter image.
2. The BVM might need to be professionally calibrated
3. There might be something in my signal; chain that is making the picture dim and washed out.
4. There's simply too much light in my room (no direct sunlight on the screen though) and I need for there to be no light in my room.
Signal chain is: Recapped Wii Dual -> New HDMI Cable -> Like-New Extron HDMI Switcher -> New HDMI Cable -> New HD Fury 3 -> New VGA Cable -> New Extron RGB 203 Rxi -> Retro Access RGBS BNC Cable -> BVM D24 (285 hours)
I'm wondering why the picture is s dim and washed out. Possibilities:
1. The BVM is old and might need recapped to output a brighter image.
2. The BVM might need to be professionally calibrated
3. There might be something in my signal; chain that is making the picture dim and washed out.
4. There's simply too much light in my room (no direct sunlight on the screen though) and I need for there to be no light in my room.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Wii Dual can output RGBS, RGsB, & YPbPr - ALL of which the D24 can take with ONE single cable. Why would you have a chain of SEVEN things hooked up to it to get it to your D24? I would start there to rule out something in that massive chain.Ikaruga11 wrote:Signal chain is: Recapped Wii Dual -> New HDMI Cable -> Like-New Extron HDMI Switcher -> New HDMI Cable -> New HD Fury 3 -> New VGA Cable -> New Extron RGB 203 Rxi -> Retro Access RGBS BNC Cable -> BVM D24 (285 hours)
And yes, BVM's calibrated to 100 nits are meant to be viewed pretty much in a completely dark room (or at least very dim)... but cranking brightness/contrast dials to your liking (should never be all the way up imo, just a bit) should still give you as vibrant a picture as you would want as long as it's a sensibly lit room (i.e. normal shades drawn, a couple non-eyeball-searing lamps on, and not in direct brightness from a summer sun coming in through wall-size un-shaded windows or anything like that
Oh, also make sure you're using terminators on the outputs.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Not really, for a tube like that on these BVMs, you absolutely need a dark room. That's the environment they were made for. Even a tiny bit of light will kill your blacks and wash out the picture significantly as there is absolutely no anti-glare or tinting on those gray-green tubes. Back when I used one of these I resorted to using a hood when I couldn't keep the lights off lolDochartaigh wrote:And yes, BVM's calibrated to 100 nits are meant to be viewed pretty much in a completely dark room (or at least very dim)... but cranking brightness/contrast dials to your liking (should never be all the way up imo, just a bit) should still give you as vibrant a picture as you would want as long as it's a sensibly lit room (i.e. normal shades drawn, a couple non-eyeball-searing lamps on, and not in direct brightness from a summer sun coming in through wall-size un-shaded windows or anything like that
That chain from the WiiDual to the monitor does sound unnecessarily long, but probably not an issue. Ikaruga11 may want to use HDMI for the digital audio (hopefully being extracted somewhere before the HDFury). It's worth trying a simpler chain just as a sanity check though.