Questions that do not deserve a thread

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Listai
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Listai »

kitty666cats wrote: Monoprice are good bang for your buck, they are thicc as hell
Thanks - sadly they don't ship internationally though (I'm in Australia) so I'll need to look for a local alternative (although those looked perfect!)
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

Listai wrote:
kitty666cats wrote: Monoprice are good bang for your buck, they are thicc as hell
Thanks - sadly they don't ship internationally though (I'm in Australia) so I'll need to look for a local alternative (although those looked perfect!)
I'd peek around on eBay, perhaps. Just look for something that looks similar, thickness-wise. Might as well get 5BNC cables too, so you can use them for VGA when needed - you can just leave the 5th cable dangling, the 'H' cable will almost always double as comp. sync... it's usually the darker colored of the two sync cables, but not always.

I know TheCableChick and Converters.tv are based out of AU, but IDK if either have BNC cables/affordable BNC cables if so
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Axelay
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Axelay »

Hello everyone.

Just a quick question.

Would a power cable that I use in my ps2 and ps1 bu suitable for a pal original xbox console?

It has a 3A fuse in the plug.

I have one of those official surge protector xbox cables on the way just feeling a little impatient!

Kind regards
Arms installation complete Good luck
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

H6rdc0re wrote:With all those old Widescreen CRT's out there for cheap or free. Almost all of these CRT's have a good tube but have bad picture processing doing crap like 100Hz.
The issue with those sets usually is the nature of the electronics that draw the screen. They are fixed scan rate sets, so they will only sync to incoming signals that conform to the native scan rate. The reason they use digital processing is a cost-saving way to make a variety of incoming signals compatible. Rather than make a more complicated analog circuit that can truly "multisync," they take everything and process it to the native sync.

However, most of those sets have a way to turn off the digital processing in the service menu. If you do that, and feed them a signal from a PC, you get a crisp, unprocessed picture.
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

Axelay wrote:Would a power cable that I use in my ps2 and ps1 bu suitable for a pal original xbox console?
I haven't handled PAL versions of these consoles, but, in NTSC territories, the PS1 (not the later PSone) and fat PS2 models (and Dreamcast) all use polarized AC leads, where the connector that plugs into the console is rounded on one side and squared on the other, so that it only fits in one way; whereas the Xbox uses a figure-8-style lead, where both sides of the connector are rounded, allowing it to fit in either way. I would imagine the PAL units are the same, but possibly not.
Dochartaigh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

For Analogue Super NT owners I have two questions:

Would you feel safer playing a long 30+ hour game through the built-in SD card (with the hacked firmware on the Super NT), or on a Krikzz SD2SNES (think they changed the name to FXPAK now?) on the Super NT? Just don't want to actually put that much time into a game and have a corrupt save or something.

Next, when I startup my Analogue Super NT it boots up with the wrong graphical settings - both scaling and with scanlines off (and yes, my settings were saved, and with scanlines ON). BUT, as soon as I go into scanlines settings to turn them back on, they're marked as on (but still no scanlines), and when I turn them off then back on it snaps back to my original saved settings. Am I doing something wrong? Or reinstall firmware as a first step in troubleshooting or what? I've literally used this thing for maybe 10 hours total, if that...known working SD card but can change that out too...
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by HDgaming42 »

Question about calibrating greyscale on Sony consumer CRTs. I have a coloromitor and use HCFR to attempt a 2 point greyscale calibration at 30 and 80 IRE.

The trouble is that while in the service mode, the OSD is altering the respsonse. I can take a reading of a grey screen and get it ironed out, but when I exit the service menu there is a shift when I measure again.

Is there a setting within the service menu that disables any dimming or altering the OSD is performing? How on earth do people attempt this with Sony? The same thing happens on JVC models, but at least you don't need to power them off each time you want to enter or exit the service menu.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

Listai wrote:For a PVM should I use 75Ω BNC to female RCA adapters?. I currently just have some cheap ones attached to some component cables and they seem to work fine.

My current setup is an Otaku games switch outputting via RGBS which I then attach the my PVM20L2 with the adaptors. I'm just wondering if it's worth spending a tiny bit extra, there doesn't appear to be any interference - there is some minimal horizontal smearing but you have to be extremely close and looking for it.
All my switches use rca connectors with adaptors on the first monitor in the chain. I use BNCs between monitors. Works great for me cause component switches are a lot easier to come by.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

HDgaming42 wrote:Question about calibrating greyscale on Sony consumer CRTs. I have a coloromitor and use HCFR to attempt a 2 point greyscale calibration at 30 and 80 IRE.

The trouble is that while in the service mode, the OSD is altering the respsonse. I can take a reading of a grey screen and get it ironed out, but when I exit the service menu there is a shift when I measure again.

Is there a setting within the service menu that disables any dimming or altering the OSD is performing? How on earth do people attempt this with Sony? The same thing happens on JVC models, but at least you don't need to power them off each time you want to enter or exit the service menu.
Iirc we had folks who had a lot of difficulty getting their Sony's to save calibration settings years back. I can't recall who or what they did though, sorry.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

If I'm using a sync-on-luma cable from a PS2, will it work to run it through a cable that has a LM1881N sync stripping chip in it?
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Maybe this is outside the scope of Shmups, but it should still apply. I've had a KVM for my many computer systems that takes DSUB video cables and outputs to the VGA port in my Sceptre X405BV-FSR TV. Everything has been working fine where I have the TV in low power mode when no computers are active, and mouse/keyboard movement on the active system would wake the TV. This is more or less ideal, as I know the TV won't wake on the HDMI ports. Since most of my systems output HDMI, I had been converting HDMI > DSUB with cheap converters (https://amzn.to/2UeLIyq) which was fine, but I wanted to upgrade my KVM.

I have many other HDMI only devices in my room (bluray, Roku, ShieldTV) that I'd like to integrate into the KVM, so I bought a 16 port HDMI KVM (https://amzn.to/2XF2IA5). I'm running into major problems waking the TV. If I run HDMI from one PC to a converter to the DSUB on the TV everything works as desired. I tested with all of these and they work in this manner:
https://amzn.to/2UdLGGX
https://amzn.to/2A7Jryg
https://amzn.to/3dCqG4E

The problem is, the second I put the KVM in line, the TV won't wake. If I wake the TV manually, I can see the mouse movement from the one attached to the KVM, so I know that works, and it's waking the PC. The KVM I bought because it came recommended, had enough ports, and the features were right. Can anyone offer insight into why the KVM is causing this issue and how to solve it? Is this an issue with all HDMI KVM? Is there another one that would work? Even though the above converters work, is there an ideal way to get HDMI to DSUB ? I've been racking my brain for days trying to deal with this problem.

Thanks!
pedroTFP
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by pedroTFP »

How do I connect a Xbox 360E (HDMI only) to a PVM that is 480p capable (20M7MDE) and has only BNC input?

I’m ok with HDMI->VGA and a PC monitor, and I know the PVM with proper cables works with DC and PS2 @480p.

But here what I use? Some transcoder to convert RGBHV to RGBS? Any suggestion?

Thx
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

HDMI to VGA to an extron rgb 192v
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

I think I solved my KVM HDMI --> VGA issue by using this:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C8CMC4Z
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

ross wrote:
Fudoh wrote:On 360 definitely not. Using a HQ VGA cable offers fantastic qualities.

And PS3 quite on the contrary. Here an external HDMI to analogue converter will offer better quality, since the PS3's analogue component output is already considerbly more blurry than the HDMI output.
Wouldn't be relevant for VGA, but is this just true of the PS3's component output or its RGB output too?
there's nothing wrong with the PS3's component output, just the OEM cables
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FinalBaton
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

So i received my Extron MVX, and I can't get any picture to show and I hope the thing is not busted(was advertised as tested and working) but instead was an error on my side.

I hooked up all my consoles with 4 leads (RGBS) that I know are working, then hooked up the output to my PVM-2950 via 4 leads (RGBS) with a cable that again I know works,

then select an input and an output, turn on the console and then nothing. only my NESRGB modded NES shows something : a little bit of gray visuals but most of the screen is black.


Is there something I'm missing here?
-FM Synth & Black Metal-
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

FinalBaton wrote: Is there something I'm missing here?
If there is, it's probably one of those things that is staring you in the face that you'll suddenly realize.

Which MVX is it? There's more than one version.

First thing that pops into my head is to check the sync line. If it's the VGA connector MVX, the sync line could be mis-matched from one cable to the other one. For example, if the sync coming out of the console has composite sync routed to the H pin and that pin is routed to the V pin on the cable coming out of the switch. Just a wild guess not know what connectors you have.
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FinalBaton
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

vol.2 wrote:If there is, it's probably one of those things that is staring you in the face that you'll suddenly realize.

Which MVX is it? There's more than one version.

First thing that pops into my head is to check the sync line. If it's the VGA connector MVX, the sync line could be mis-matched from one cable to the other one. For example, if the sync coming out of the console has composite sync routed to the H pin and that pin is routed to the V pin on the cable coming out of the switch. Just a wild guess not know what connectors you have.
Thanks for helping me troubleshoot.

It's the MVX 84. (DE-15/VGA connectors for inputs/outputs)

My console cables all utlimately send composite sync on the H pin : 2 of them are Nintendo Multiout DE-15 Csync cables for my SNES 2-chip and NESRGB modded NES(and when bypassing the Extron, I hook them up to the PVM via a breakout DE-15-to-BNC cable with H sync hooked up to H sync on the PVM and they work. so they are sending sync on H pin) and 2 of them are SCART cables (not Csync, but I pump them through a SyncStrike that works and then a breakout DE-15-to-BNC cable with H sync hooked up to H sync on the PVM and they work. again proof that they send sync on the H pin).

All these hookups work when plugging directly on the PVM, but once routed through the Extron, then they don't

I'll check that all my cables work individually same for power outlets on my powerstrip.

EDIT : tried to hook up just 1 console at a time, and NES works, don't know why it works all of a sudden. will keep testing them out individually.
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FinalBaton
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

Ok so everything seems to be working well now.

What I think might have been hapening is that :

1 - could have been power related. I did take the power lead off the MVX and reseat it in. and also I used a different spot on my powerstrip, maybe there was a dead one on there.

2 - I made a mistake earlier connecting the Genesis (which I realized myself and had a ''d'oh'' moment) which is that I first, I wasn't going through a SyncStrike like I had mentionned : I went straight to a breakout cable. But althought the Genesis outputs Csync, my SCART cable didn't (wired for composite video as sync). And it was plugged into the #1 input of the MVX. so maybe when an input is problematic, all the ones after are disabled? I dunno
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

nmalinoski wrote:I don't think there's anything on the market that takes 240p RGB/YPbPr over SCART/RCA component and line-doubles it to 480p with a DE-15/RGBHV output (and, if it does, chances are the output is going to be DTV 480p, not VGA 640x480).
http://www.js-technology.com/store/prod ... product=56

Image

"Converts Composite, S-Video, Component or RGB SCART to a VGA PC type signal."
tacoguy64
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by tacoguy64 »

Just had an xbr pop up on craiglist i was interested in but not sure how fixable this. Looks like the yoke just needs to be centered? Picture is blank on the left side.

https://images.craigslist.org/00C0C_8E7 ... 00x900.jpg

https://images.craigslist.org/00j0j_1hP ... 00x900.jpg
strayan
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by strayan »

kitty666cats wrote:
nmalinoski wrote:I don't think there's anything on the market that takes 240p RGB/YPbPr over SCART/RCA component and line-doubles it to 480p with a DE-15/RGBHV output (and, if it does, chances are the output is going to be DTV 480p, not VGA 640x480).
http://www.js-technology.com/store/prod ... product=56

Image

"Converts Composite, S-Video, Component or RGB SCART to a VGA PC type signal."
Have you yourself confirmed it will output a true 640x480 VESA timing?
nmalinoski
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

strayan wrote:
kitty666cats wrote:
nmalinoski wrote:I don't think there's anything on the market that takes 240p RGB/YPbPr over SCART/RCA component and line-doubles it to 480p with a DE-15/RGBHV output (and, if it does, chances are the output is going to be DTV 480p, not VGA 640x480).
http://www.js-technology.com/store/prod ... product=56
...
"Converts Composite, S-Video, Component or RGB SCART to a VGA PC type signal."
Have you yourself confirmed it will output a true 640x480 VESA timing?
Right at the bottom of the product page:
The Simple Video Scalar is compatible with both NTSC and PAL resolution of 480i and 576i outputs its progressive equivalent of 480p and 576p.
So, DTV 480p/576p as I said, not VGA/VESA 640x480.
strayan
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by strayan »

nmalinoski wrote: So, DTV 480p/576p as I said, not VGA/VESA 640x480.
That's how I read it too.
GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

I don't use my Retro Freak much for gaming these days as there are many superior solutions available now for playing older consoles on HDTVs. It does however have the convenient ability to extract the ROM from cartridges which can be saved to a micro SD card.

My question is: is there a way to extract audio from a (legitimately obtained) ROM of my own making using the Retro Freak and a PC? I would like to rip my own soundtracks as Nintendo doesn't seem to ever have any intention of making available their vast catalog of VGM for purchase on any digital platform. Frankly I'm getting tired of not being able to purchase any of David Wise's brilliant DKC soundtracks anywhere! :cry:
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

GojiFan90 wrote:is there a way to extract audio from a (legitimately obtained) ROM
I believe that you can just save through an emulator. Google some variant of that and you'll figure it out
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Axelay
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Axelay »

nmalinoski wrote:
Axelay wrote:Would a power cable that I use in my ps2 and ps1 bu suitable for a pal original xbox console?
I haven't handled PAL versions of these consoles, but, in NTSC territories, the PS1 (not the later PSone) and fat PS2 models (and Dreamcast) all use polarized AC leads, where the connector that plugs into the console is rounded on one side and squared on the other, so that it only fits in one way; whereas the Xbox uses a figure-8-style lead, where both sides of the connector are rounded, allowing it to fit in either way. I would imagine the PAL units are the same, but possibly not.

Thanks for the response. I gave it a shot and it worked fine .

Can anyone point me in the direction where I can find some info on getting the best picture from the original xbox? I have been searching the threads any help would be great
Arms installation complete Good luck
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

strayan wrote:
nmalinoski wrote: So, DTV 480p/576p as I said, not VGA/VESA 640x480.
That's how I read it too.
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a3 ... 9068485039

mm, perhaps this sucker right here then? Quite the mysterious box, heh
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Fudoh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

You can't get a VESA VGA timing doubled from a 15khz input.

All the XRGB units (1,2,2+,3, Displ, DisplTV) did output 480p for that exact reason. The only machine that tried to output true VESA VGA was the Waka Playstation line doubler and it showed with heavy artefacting on the horizontal due to improperly applied sampling. To get a VESA output, you need a more complex design and a frame buffer. You basically would have to double the signal to 480p, then crop the front and end porch areas and retime the signal into with new active/total line pixel ratio. Full blown scalers / processors have the option to choose both, SMPTE and VESA output timings.
strayan
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by strayan »

Fudoh wrote:You can't get a VESA VGA timing doubled from a 15khz input.

All the XRGB units (1,2,2+,3, Displ, DisplTV) did output 480p for that exact reason. The only machine that tried to output true VESA VGA was the Waka Playstation line doubler and it showed with heavy artefacting on the horizontal due to improperly applied sampling. To get a VESA output, you need a more complex design and a frame buffer. You basically would have to double the signal to 480p, then crop the front and end porch areas and retime the signal into with new active/total line pixel ratio. Full blown scalers / processors have the option to choose both, SMPTE and VESA output timings.
As an N64 fan all I can say is thank heavens marshalls ultrahdmi outputs a true VESA 640x480 signal. Has made my life so much easier!
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