Questions that do not deserve a thread

[emphatic]

Nice one! I'll check out your blog now.

[rugdoctor]

Nice one! I'll check out your blog now.

Updated**

Was too late last night ...

[Zorator]

In regards to the Japanese Sega Saturn Virtua Stick, I know that only the earliest units came with Seimetsu parts, but is there any way to know if for example this new in box stick contains the original Seimetsu parts?

And while we are on the subject, assuming that one I linked to does have Seimetsu parts, is that price significantly higher than it should be? How much would the PS2 version(with stock parts) sell for?

[chempop]

hey guys, I finally got the Sigma AV7000 powered on today. It's my first time using jamma. Was able to adjust the voltage properly (thanks Emphatic!), but there is an issue with the overall picture. Ever so slightly the picture is bobbing/waving up and down. its almost impossible to see during gameplay, but on the still titles screens and whatnot it's visible. What could be the cause. I'm using S-video on a tated CRT.

Also, I have a pretty bad audio hum. I'm using a different cable for the composite Red/white audio cables.

I'll try a different TV tonight and see with I have the same issues, and suggestions would be wonderful!

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Sounds like a bit of sync problem with your CRT TV monitor, chempop. I had an PCB with the odd sync problems and it'd simply scroll slowly if hooked up to an Sony Trinitron CRT TV. I had one of those old-school Tenika produced 19" CRT TV monitors with a sole RF input and nothing else but the odd thing was it'd perfectly sync any arcade PCB you threw at it (including using an Seibu Kaihatsu SP1 arcade motherboard running Viper Phase 1 U.S.A.). Of course, it meant downconverting the outgoing S-Video signal from supergun to composite video and running it through an composite video to RF convertor. Worked like a charm nevertheless.

Just hook up a pair of passive (non-amplified) stereo bookshelf speakers rated at 8 ohms at up to 30 watts should be more than ample for PCBs (rather than hooking up the L&R output from your supergun to your TV) for best results. The audio hum issue will go away if you do use an external pair of passive speakers.

Take for instance, with an Taito G-Net motherboard, you can hook up a pair of 100 watt stereo bookshelf speakers to the stereo pinout interface (via a custom-made RCA phono adapter harness), and it won't even break a sweat (meaning no overheating of the MOSFET heatsink and it still remains cool to the touch if powered up). Most PCBs tend to get quite warm if hooked up to an 100w speaker setup (bordering on overkill) but with the G-Net mobo, it's no problem.

On my supergun setup, I just use a single Yamaha bookshelf speaker rated at 10 watts at 8 ohms. The speaker has great bass, and plays great with them Cave/Psikyo/Raizing PCBs.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[chempop]

I fixed the audio hum by (if you can believe it...) turning down the volume on the PCB! Of course before doing this I tested a pair of sony DJ headphones and nearly deafened myself<!!!!>

The image is still wobbling a little, i have 5 other CRTs I'm going to test, so maybe it is the particular one I'm using (which I've messed with a ton in service menu...)

I don't have a upscaler or anything, just straight s-video (or composite) directly into TV, both output the same issue (although S-video was incredibly improved picture).

[edit]: Just tried an older curved trinitron and NO WOBBLE! I'm happy, but I really wish I could use my flatscreen CRT, oh well, I guess this will help train my eyes for when I eventually get a curved screen candy cab.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Yep, toning down the volume on PCBs works wonders. Some CRT TVs may have slight issues with syncing from said PCBs...it's just a matter of trial 'n' error which one works best for you. There's always the next step of trying out a dedicated low-res 15kHz CRT-based RGB monitor with your favorite PCBs.

Getting your feet wet by delving into the world of superguns leads to the path of candy cabs, there's no turning back. ^_~

Congrats on scoring an ESP.ra.de. PCB. May your introduction to Cave PCBs be a bright one.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[chempop]

Thank you so much! I futzed around a whole bunch with the service menu of my curved 27" CRT and things are looking pretty decent now. The PCB volume wasn't the cause of the terrible refresh rate flutter, I might go and see if I can smooth things out with the flatscreen because the speakers are so much better. Otherwise maybe I'll go for some decent external speakers.

Today has been intense and mostly smooth sailing, and yes, no doubt it will lead to cabs in the future. For now though I'll be enjoying my new toys and patiently awaiting some cps2 games that should arrive soon - 19XX and Dimahoo

[Thamiel]

Hey lads, long time lurker jumping into things here.

Been patiently saving up for a XRGB Mini as getting an EDGE or pretty much any other upscaler second hand shipped is next to impossible here (Australia! Yeah!), just noticed this thing on eBay located pretty close to me and was toying with the idea of picking it up. Denon are a pretty respected brand for audio stuff and a review mentions that this uses a Faroujda upscaler so i'm leaning toward taking a punt on it if it dosn't go too high.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI ... 0955130544

Definitely keen for some thoughts on this.

Cheers.

[Fudoh]

That's a DVD player.

[Thamiel]

That's a DVD player.

Ugh, last time I skim shit on my phone at uni. When I looked at it I thought it had a scart input on the back that I could feed the snes into. Still not home but I assume they're all various outputs for the DVD player?

Question not deserving a thread indeed!

[Fudoh]

they are, yes. There are DVD/HDD recorders which have inputs and whose internal processor you can use for external sources, but they don't offer anything special for videogame processing.

[Thamiel]

they are, yes. There are DVD/HDD recorders which have inputs and whose internal processor you can use for external sources, but they don't offer anything special for videogame processing.

Cheers for the reply mate, noticed you had a Denon review on your site that I should have read earlier. Just picked up one of those Lenkeng SCART to HDMI boxes as an interim solution, $40 so not going to break the bank with that one.

[ryu]

just got the plasma tv. i was expecting the manual to include somewhat detailed information on screen burn-in, but that's not the case.

can bars outside of the picture cause burn-in? for example when using the 4:3 format.

it also doesn't say anything about how long i can have parts of the picture in a fixed position without risking a burn-in. does this usually only occur when pixels remain the same for multiple hours or do i have to be careful with, for example, playing fighting games in training mode for a while?

edit: fromw hat i got from googling this, for the first 100 or 200 hours of use, i shouldn't be using black bars at all and not have static images display for longer than 10 to 15 minutes?

that soudns awful.

[Fudoh]

On older plasma sets the first 100 hours were critical. During this phase it's recommended to use 16:9 material only. After that you should be fine even when playing a fighting game 8+ hours in a single session.

[ryu]

hm yeah the model seems to be from early 2011 and there's not a single amazon review even mentioning burn-in. guess i shouldn't worry too much.

[kyuzo]

Hey guys, random tangent from my thread asking about my astro city...

I'm trying to find the best way to get ground to my three cabs at work... I know I can run a wire between the little ground rods/nubs on the back of my cabs, but I'm trying to find the best way to get actual ground to that... I could do something jenky like buying a three prong power cord and ripping out everything but the ground and hooking that up, but I'm wondering if there's some more "proper" solution for this problem... I spent a while googling but I can't seem to find much besides "you should really ground your power outlets" and "put a copper rod in your yard." My cabs are at work, so I don't really wanna get too creative if I don't have to, and I'm trying to not have them consider my cabs a safety hazard

[BuckoA51]

Could it be possible (theoretically or practically) to repair a failed, old magnetic storage medium such as a floppy disk, by for instance wiping and re-magnetizing the surface and then re-imaging the contents from a backup? Or is it once it starts to rot then usually it's gone for good?

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Hey guys, random tangent from my thread asking about my astro city...

I'm trying to find the best way to get ground to my three cabs at work... I know I can run a wire between the little ground rods/nubs on the back of my cabs, but I'm trying to find the best way to get actual ground to that... I could do something jenky like buying a three prong power cord and ripping out everything but the ground and hooking that up, but I'm wondering if there's some more "proper" solution for this problem... I spent a while googling but I can't seem to find much besides "you should really ground your power outlets" and "put a copper rod in your yard." My cabs are at work, so I don't really wanna get too creative if I don't have to, and I'm trying to not have them consider my cabs a safety hazard

When I bought my Egret II candy cab, the ground from the PSU cord was cut off by someone else previously. Why was this done? There probably was a valid reason for doing so...this is using the original 100v Taito PSU inside the cab, btw. So when I have it hooked up to an surge protector strip, there's no need to have access to the grounding and haven't had any issues whatsoever. So no need to worry about grounding issues with candy cabs if used in the USA with 120v A/C (despite the original Japanese 100v A/C that the candy cabs' PSU {Power Supply Unit} are asking for). Same grounding issue applies to my Japanese PS2 console, no need for a grounding plug with it either. Of course, there's a grounding rod nearby, planted into the ground for use with other electrical devices that do utilize a dedicated 3-pronged power cord setup -- this is mandatory for both commercial businesses & homes in the USA.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[rugdoctor]

I got a SONY PVM-1440QM and it has a scart/euro connector. Was wondering whether anyone can confirm that it uses standard scart pinouts or is different like the older pro-feel range?

[ryu]

I got a SONY PVM-1440QM and it has a scart/euro connector. Was wondering whether anyone can confirm that it uses standard scart pinouts or is different like the older pro-feel range?

if it is the same as with other pvm-xxxxqm models, which i think it should be, then it's standard scart. or at the very least it's compatible with pretty much every kind of scart cable that's commonly used in europe.

btw anyone know how to get into a pvm's service menu and if it can be used to adjust the geometry?

[dunpeal2064]

Having a problem with my monitor. All of a sudden, the image started blurring and unblurring rapidly. It does this through all inputs. Never seen this before, not sure what happened.

[dunpeal2064]

Having a problem with my monitor. All of a sudden, the image started blurring and unblurring rapidly. It does this through all inputs. Never seen this before, not sure what happened.

No one knows what this might be? This focusing and blurring is happening even when I let the tube rest, and I can see it affecting the word "RGB" when there is nothing going through the input. Is my monitor toast?

[ECZangief]

Sorry Dunpeal, I'll I've got to add are my own monitor woes.


I've got an Olympus OEV 142, which is a Sony PVM in disguise.

I'm having an issue with adjusting the picture (brightness, chroma, aperture etc) and volume. Basically when I turn any of the dials, nothing is affected. The Remote light in the bottom left of the machine si on, so I'm thinking that its stuck in Remote-only mode.

This sound familiar to anyone? I'm hoping there's a simple way to switch it back to the on-board controls....

Thanks errbody.

Rich

[dunpeal2064]

Hey no worries, maybe both of our qualms can be fixed.

Seems like a stupid response, but would a universal remote fix the problem? I found one at Wal Mart for like $7 for a smaller monitor of mine that has whacked-out face controls.

[ryu]

Sorry Dunpeal, I'll I've got to add are my own monitor woes.


I've got an Olympus OEV 142, which is a Sony PVM in disguise.

I'm having an issue with adjusting the picture (brightness, chroma, aperture etc) and volume. Basically when I turn any of the dials, nothing is affected. The Remote light in the bottom left of the machine si on, so I'm thinking that its stuck in Remote-only mode.

This sound familiar to anyone? I'm hoping there's a simple way to switch it back to the on-board controls....

Thanks errbody.

Rich

the pvms have little switches on their backs that can be pushed to toggle remote and manual modes. did you check if your monitor has these?

[ECZangief]

^^^^

I was able to figure it out just now. I had to go into the Menu > Preset > Preset Off.

I guess that toggles the remotes on the newer models.

Thanks for your input just the same! Man these beasts are nice :]

[chempop]

Anyone know if th Total Control 3 (SAT->DC) controller adapter is a POS? I recently sold my Dreamcast Agetech in a bundle and sorta need something to replace it, wouldn't mind saving a little space by using an adapter. Obviously my main concern would be lag/response time.

[Thamiel]

Just got one of those Lenkeng SCART to HDMI scalers to have a play with, currently running my modded PAL SNES into it. It goes "OK" when the system is running at 50hz but goes black and white with a lot of shimmering when I try 60hz. If I had to guess at the issue it would be the cable i'm using.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SNES-Super-N ... 53eb98207b

The picture on PAL is pretty nasty, colours are fine just the image itself is quite "rough". Was getting a better looking picture out of my SCART to YUV transcoder actually (aside from a "shimmering" which is caused by my TV treating the SNES signal as 480i?).

Sorry for the noobish questions, done a heap of reading about this but it's all a bit different when actually messing with it in person.

[angryswede]

Can I improve the composite picture quality on the XRGB-3 by chaining a Kramer FC-10D, or is the comb filter in the xrgb as good as it gets?