Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Hazuki]

I'm thinking of buying a consolized NeoGeo MVS and found one online for a nice price, but it's not specifying what region the MVS is from. If it turns out to be an European one, does that mean the games will run at 50fps? I'm worried about that.

I don't know if 60fps/50fps is a thing for MVS hardware like stuff such as Nintendo or Sega consoles.

[Kez]

I'm thinking of buying a consolized NeoGeo MVS and found one online for a nice price, but it's not specifying what region the MVS is from. If it turns out to be an European one, does that mean the games will run at 50fps? I'm worried about that.

I don't know if 60fps/50fps is a thing for MVS hardware like stuff such as Nintendo or Sega consoles.

Since Arcade hardware was kinda self-contained, they didn't have to worry so much about compatibility with existing TVs etc. So generally they are all the same around the world (like the Game Boy line for example). NeoGeo MVS actually has a non-standard refresh rate of ~59.1hz, but that should be the same. Chances are it will have a UniBIOS (and if not you should get one for it) and that will let you change region on the fly, but that won't affect refresh rates just game features like language, possibly blood, etc.

[sky-13]

Like many users here I like to use anti static shipping boxes from companies like Global Industrial to store arcade PCBs when they’re not in use.

My question is what size fits CPS1 games like Final Fight?

I’m struggling to find the appropriate size for such PCBs.

If anyone has a suggestion or even a link to the size box they use for CPS1 games I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you!

[Steven]

I got my first JAMMA game yesterday, but I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't want to damage anything. My Astro's JAMMA harness doesn't have anything to prevent me from plugging it in upside down and no markings that identify what everything is. How do I know which way to connect this? Here's both sides of the JAMMA harness.

Spoiler

Spoiler

[Fudoh]

the side with the print on it is the parts side (top side). The Edge marked with a piece of tape is GND/GND/5V/5V etc.

[Steven]

Excellent, thank you! I was hoping that would be the case, but I wasn't going to risk it and kill my game!

Well, looks like I'm going to have to wait for the colors to fix themselves or something since I rotated the monitor, and of course the image is upside down, so I have to go fix that as well, but it works!

[BenoitRen]

Does the PS4 Pro output 1080p at a frequency that doesn't match CRTs'? What about the base PS4?

Basically, I'd like to know which "newer consoles" people mean when they talk about this.

[LDigital]

Where is the best place to post feedback, bug reports and get support for Retrotink5x? Is it still here? I just received mine today and it’s been blowing me away on the latest firmware but I think there are some intermittent issues where I need to go to the menu to fix the colours occasionally

[kitty666cats]

Does the PS4 Pro output 1080p at a frequency that doesn't match CRTs'? What about the base PS4?

Basically, I'd like to know which "newer consoles" people mean when they talk about this.

Yeah, both PS4s act this way - 1080p will display on some monitors (some it won't even display at all), but if it does the image will be cut off a bit on the side. If you want the full raster you have to go into 'display area' under the display settings and decrease the size of the displayed image.

Either doing that or settling for 720p is the best option, though an external scaler with a setting for VESA 1920x1080p output might fix 1080p... I gotta try on my Extron DSC 301 HD.

[Dochartaigh]

Finally updated (jailbreak) firmware on my Analogue products: Mega SG, Super NT, and Nt mini Noir, and of course it wiped all my settings video and scaling settings. Got everything worked out from my notes EXCEPT for scanline settings.

What do people do to combat scanlines darkening the screen so much (don't want to have to on/off brightness setting on my TV all the time"? Thought there was a gamma boost on/off setting which helped? Do people just boost that manually now? Anything else to help with this? (I know, I know, there's half as many lines lit-up with scanlines on, that's just how it is...). Don't like the hybrid setting much either as I'm used to BVM and PVM CRT's which limit bloom to a great amount (which seems like the hybrid just makes the image bloom in brighter areas).

[Lopenator]

Do ya'll recommend leaving my N8 Pro in my NES when not using it or removing it when I am done playing?

[vol.2]

Where is the best place to post feedback, bug reports and get support for Retrotink5x? Is it still here? I just received mine today and it’s been blowing me away on the latest firmware but I think there are some intermittent issues where I need to go to the menu to fix the colours occasionally

On this forum, it would be the "official" RT5X thread.

[Steven]

I just bought a new case for my PC. Unfortunately, no matter if I plug my headphones into the front or the back, I can hear extremely annoying audio noise whenever I move the mouse or even just open the Windows menu thing. This even happens when my headphones are on mute, and my old case was fine (aside from the US postal system smashing it so hard as to fuck up the headphone jack 5 years ago. I finally got tired of the fucked up headphone jack not working most of the time today, which is why I got the new case, but when it worked, it was 100% fine). Front headphone jack is one of those headphones + microphone 2-in-1 things.

I'm not really sure what to do or even what I can do at this point, so any advice would be great. I'm using a professional musician's studio monitor headphones (the legendary Sony MDR-CD900ST), and I had no problems with my old case, so I'm guessing it's something to do with the new case, as I have made no other changes. I have tried to mute the mic and stuff. I have seen that disabling power saving settings can sometimes fix this, but it's late and I have to go to bed soon, so I've not tried this yet. I hate this so much that I'm tempted to go back to my old case and try to salvage it somehow, or maybe return the new case and get a different one. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate it.

[Kez]

Sounds like your audio wires are picking up high frequency noise from inside the case. You could try checking the routing of the audio header cable from the front panel, try to keep it away from the motherboard as much as possible, especially away from the RAM and stuff. If you don't mind using the back port, you could just unplug the front header and see if that helps.

[ldeveraux]

I just bought a new case for my PC. Unfortunately, no matter if I plug my headphones into the front or the back, I can hear extremely annoying audio noise whenever I move the mouse or even just open the Windows menu thing. This even happens when my headphones are on mute, and my old case was fine (aside from the US postal system smashing it so hard as to fuck up the headphone jack 5 years ago. I finally got tired of the fucked up headphone jack not working most of the time today, which is why I got the new case, but when it worked, it was 100% fine). Front headphone jack is one of those headphones + microphone 2-in-1 things.

I'm not really sure what to do or even what I can do at this point, so any advice would be great. I'm using a professional musician's studio monitor headphones (the legendary Sony MDR-CD900ST), and I had no problems with my old case, so I'm guessing it's something to do with the new case, as I have made no other changes. I have tried to mute the mic and stuff. I have seen that disabling power saving settings can sometimes fix this, but it's late and I have to go to bed soon, so I've not tried this yet. I hate this so much that I'm tempted to go back to my old case and try to salvage it somehow, or maybe return the new case and get a different one. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate it.

If you plug headphones directly into the back of the motherboard and you still get interference, it's not the case, it's the motherboard. Is this a 3.5mm stereo headphone jack connector? Are you sure you're plugging in to the headphone or audio out jack? If so, it sounds like when it was jostled it separated the jack from the board and screwed with the connection. If you're handy you can try to resolder, but mobos are finicky.

[jd213]

I had a similar problem with my 1st PC from 1998 (IIRC it was fine at first but gradually became worse). Have been using either a sound card's headphone jack or SPIDF+receiver ever since. I wouldn't trust the analog audio of a PC case to be very well shielded.

[SavagePencil]

I’m seeing if anyone has the Windows software for the Extron AVT 200HD. I have an Atari Video Music that works fine when connected directly to RF on a CRT on channel 3, but is not getting detected by the AVT’s channel scan. I’m hoping the official software will let me force it to channel 3 to detect the Atari box and upscale to HDMI.

[Dochartaigh]

I’m seeing if anyone has the Windows software for the Extron AVT 200HD. I have an Atari Video Music that works fine when connected directly to RF on a CRT on channel 3, but is not getting detected by the AVT’s channel scan. I’m hoping the official software will let me force it to channel 3 to detect the Atari box and upscale to HDMI.

Did you check the 2+ Extron DVD's on Archive.org?

[SavagePencil]

Did you check the 2+ Extron DVD's on Archive.org?

No, can you link me or if there’s a pinned post for future reference?

[Dochartaigh]

Did you check the 2+ Extron DVD's on Archive.org?

No, can you link me or if there’s a pinned post for future reference?

https://archive.org/search.php?query=ex ... oftware%22

[Steven]

Sounds like your audio wires are picking up high frequency noise from inside the case. You could try checking the routing of the audio header cable from the front panel, try to keep it away from the motherboard as much as possible, especially away from the RAM and stuff. If you don't mind using the back port, you could just unplug the front header and see if that helps.

I forgot to mention that it's always been there in the back on this motherboard, so using the back port won't help. I'll see about rerouting the wire if I can... but not now. It's going to be a rough week at work this week, so I hope I can find some time to look into it soon.

If you plug headphones directly into the back of the motherboard and you still get interference, it's not the case, it's the motherboard. Is this a 3.5mm stereo headphone jack connector? Are you sure you're plugging in to the headphone or audio out jack? If so, it sounds like when it was jostled it separated the jack from the board and screwed with the connection. If you're handy you can try to resolder, but mobos are finicky.

See above, but yeah, it is a 3.5mm headphones with integral mic thingy in front and of course a 3.5mm audio out in back. In the older case, I know that they hit it really damn hard because I can't even plug anything into the front 3.5mm microphone input. I went to Akiba yesterday and asked around and the only guy who was even able to help me said that I'd have to basically remake the part myself using an off-the-shelf 3.5mm audio jack, but without knowing how to connect it, it would be difficult. I don't know how to solder, either, but I do need to learn so I can fix my Vectrex as it is, so...

I had a similar problem with my 1st PC from 1998 (IIRC it was fine at first but gradually became worse). Have been using either a sound card's headphone jack or SPIDF+receiver ever since. I wouldn't trust the analog audio of a PC case to be very well shielded.

Yeah, it was fine in my other case, so this is disappointing. I thought about getting a sound card, but I haven't decided if I want to do that yet, especially since I'm trying (and failing) to save money right now, but I'm considering it.

[Kez]

I forgot to mention that it's always been there in the back on this motherboard, so using the back port won't help. I'll see about rerouting the wire if I can... but not now. It's going to be a rough week at work this week, so I hope I can find some time to look into it soon.

Ah okay, well if anything it's strange that you didn't hear interference in the front port before! Any cheap external DAC would probably be the easiest fix. The Apple dongle DAC is quite well regarded and works on Windows (with a USB-C port or USB-C adapter), as long as your headphones aren't hard to drive.

[Steven]

I forgot to mention that it's always been there in the back on this motherboard, so using the back port won't help. I'll see about rerouting the wire if I can... but not now. It's going to be a rough week at work this week, so I hope I can find some time to look into it soon.

Ah okay, well if anything it's strange that you didn't hear interference in the front port before! Any cheap external DAC would probably be the easiest fix. The Apple dongle DAC is quite well regarded and works on Windows (with a USB-C port or USB-C adapter), as long as your headphones aren't hard to drive.

A sound card should also fix it, right? I have professional-grade headphones, so I might as well take advantage of their quality with a nice sound card.

[pedroTFP]

I understand that buying a new OLED TV with 120Hz BFI (like LG C1 vs C2) is better for playing retrogames upscaled @1080p (i.e. via RT5x).
Would 120Hz BFI be still relevant with RT4K?

[H6rdc0re]

I understand that buying a new OLED TV with 120Hz BFI (like LG C1 vs C2) is better for playing retrogames upscaled @1080p (i.e. via RT5x).
Would 120Hz BFI be still relevant with RT4K?

BFI is not resolution depended. BFI will work just as well on a 480p source as it would on a 4k source. The LG C2 doesn't support 120Hz BFI just 60Hz. The LG CX and C1 do support 120Hz BFI. BFI will still be relevant on the RetroTink 4K but it will be 60Hz not 120Hz BFI as the sources will be 60Hz. 120Hz BFI is really only relevant on real 120Hz sources like for example PS5, Xbox Series S/X and PC.

[Kez]

A sound card should also fix it, right? I have professional-grade headphones, so I might as well take advantage of their quality with a nice sound card.

Yeah, a sound card would probably fix it but internal sound cards are still more susceptible to noise than external DACs (especially if you hook up the front ports to the sound card, as that wire is carrying an analog signal through the PC past a bunch of components generating noise). There's a huge rabbit hole here but I have moved away from internal sound cards personally - there are a bunch of great external headphone amps out there nowadays and that tends to be the choice for audiophiles. Of course the sky is the limit when it comes to price but you can get good results even with a cheap setup.

The sound quality of the Apple dongle I linked above is really good - the issue is power so if you are using headphones with a low power requirement then it would sound fine, and people even use that dongle as a DAC running into a headphone amp with great results.

[pedroTFP]

I understand that buying a new OLED TV with 120Hz BFI (like LG C1 vs C2) is better for playing retrogames upscaled @1080p (i.e. via RT5x).
Would 120Hz BFI be still relevant with RT4K?

BFI is not resolution depended. BFI will work just as well on a 480p source as it would on a 4k source. The LG C2 doesn't support 120Hz BFI just 60Hz. The LG CX and C1 do support 120Hz BFI. BFI will still be relevant on the RetroTink 4K but it will be 60Hz not 120Hz BFI as the sources will be 60Hz. 120Hz BFI is really only relevant on real 120Hz sources like for example PS5, Xbox Series S/X and PC.

Thanks, I was not asking with regard of resolution per se, but because it looks like RT4k will take advance of HDR which excludes BFI.
Anyway, if BFI with 5x/4K is limited to 60hz, I still may go with C1 for BFI 120hz PS5/XSX.
Thanks again!

[fernan1234]

Thanks, I was not asking with regard of resolution per se, but because it looks like RT4k will take advance of HDR which excludes BFI.
Anyway, if BFI with 5x/4K is limited to 60hz, I still may go with C1 for BFI 120hz PS5/XSX.
Thanks again!

A solution is for the 5X/4K to add its own BFI on a 120Hz output (most likely limited to 720p in the case of the 5X), so we don't need to depend on the display to support BFI in HDR more or at all. There's some really great HDR-capable displays that can get bright enough to make up for both BFI as well as full scanlines (OLEDs are not one of them, but can be adequate enough in a dark room), but all they're missing is BFI.

[H6rdc0re]

I understand that buying a new OLED TV with 120Hz BFI (like LG C1 vs C2) is better for playing retrogames upscaled @1080p (i.e. via RT5x).
Would 120Hz BFI be still relevant with RT4K?

BFI is not resolution depended. BFI will work just as well on a 480p source as it would on a 4k source. The LG C2 doesn't support 120Hz BFI just 60Hz. The LG CX and C1 do support 120Hz BFI. BFI will still be relevant on the RetroTink 4K but it will be 60Hz not 120Hz BFI as the sources will be 60Hz. 120Hz BFI is really only relevant on real 120Hz sources like for example PS5, Xbox Series S/X and PC.

Thanks, I was not asking with regard of resolution per se, but because it looks like RT4k will take advance of HDR which excludes BFI.
Anyway, if BFI with 5x/4K is limited to 60hz, I still may go with C1 for BFI 120hz PS5/XSX.
Thanks again!

BFI on LG OLEDs work with HDR10, Dolby Vision and HLG. I think you're thinking about VRR. BFI is greyed out in all VRR modes. On my Xbox Series X I did manage to get BFI working in VRR mode but it flickered so much it was unplayable.

Anyway good news for you. You can force HDR10 or HLG with your retro games through the RetroTink 5X with BFI enabled and can even use scanlines and masks on top of that with ample brightness. Enjoy!

[Steven]

A sound card should also fix it, right? I have professional-grade headphones, so I might as well take advantage of their quality with a nice sound card.

Yeah, a sound card would probably fix it but internal sound cards are still more susceptible to noise than external DACs (especially if you hook up the front ports to the sound card, as that wire is carrying an analog signal through the PC past a bunch of components generating noise). There's a huge rabbit hole here but I have moved away from internal sound cards personally - there are a bunch of great external headphone amps out there nowadays and that tends to be the choice for audiophiles. Of course the sky is the limit when it comes to price but you can get good results even with a cheap setup.

The sound quality of the Apple dongle I linked above is really good - the issue is power so if you are using headphones with a low power requirement then it would sound fine, and people even use that dongle as a DAC running into a headphone amp with great results.

So basically I should do audio through USB, right?