Questions that do not deserve a thread

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TransatlanticFoe
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by TransatlanticFoe »

Oh well, popped a battery in and it stopped working entirely. Went to crank up the laser a bit more and smelled burning, so the issue with DDP was probably the Saturn being on its last legs. Sad times.
thchardcore
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by thchardcore »

Lasers are less than $20 shipped on Aliexpress. I would just replace it.
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Axelay
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Axelay »

Hello all apologies i may have asked this before.
I own a sony crt tv. If i wanted to get a N64 to run with a decent RGB picture. Can i get just a basic rgb modded ntsc console?

Do i need a deblur or tim worthington mod? Or borti?

Cheers i have the urge to play castlevania 64 with all of its flaws and some sin and punishment.
Arms installation complete Good luck
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

I've got all my consoles currently RGB modded if they support it going in to a SCART switch. I then run that to my RGB2COMP and composite into my OSSC. The OSSC feeds into my DSC-301 HD via HDMI then to my splitter to process display and audio. I've had this GBS sitting in a box for a year nowand wonder how best to integrate it into my system. From what I can gather, it's better at signal processing than the DSC, but would it be a 1:1 replacement? Would I use them both in series? If I integrate the GBS I'd need to put it before the OSSC as it's got the DB15 video input.

Any advice would be helpful
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Fudoh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

let us know how that turns out. I've had a GBS setup for some time and never found an actual use for it. It's a rather cheap alternative for downscaling (compared to a Retrotink 5X) and it's got some kind of deinterlacing for 480i (if you want that and compared to the OSSC), but replacing the 301 in your particular processing chain won't do any good.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Fudoh wrote:let us know how that turns out. I've had a GBS setup for some time and never found an actual use for it. It's a rather cheap alternative for downscaling (compared to a Retrotink 5X) and it's got some kind of deinterlacing for 480i (if you want that and compared to the OSSC), but replacing the 301 in your particular processing chain won't do any good.
I don't remember why I thought it was a good idea to buy it then! hahah. Isn't it meant to work well on more difficult devices to render? Like Dreamcast, N64, etc.
Robothug
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Robothug »

Does anyone know where I can find info on NES Scart cables?

I got my Top loader NES modded 8 years ago, but the Scart cable is done so weird that the color is fkd up.
It doesnt look like any Scart cable i've ever seen. It has 2 cables that plug into the back of it.
The guy who did the Mod disappeared, so i cant even ask what went into making it.

Also, have Component cables been introduced to NES yet?
I also have SuperG's Component Selector.
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Kez
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kez »

Robothug wrote:Does anyone know where I can find info on NES Scart cables?

I got my Top loader NES modded 8 years ago, but the Scart cable is done so weird that the color is fkd up.
It doesnt look like any Scart cable i've ever seen. It has 2 cables that plug into the back of it.
The guy who did the Mod disappeared, so i cant even ask what went into making it.

Also, have Component cables been introduced to NES yet?
I also have SuperG's Component Selector.
I assume this is RGB SCART? If so, they are all mods so ultimately just depend on how it's installed as to what cable you need. If you've got some pics we might be able to provide a little more info. Also pics of how the colours look.
Robothug
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Robothug »

Kez wrote:
Robothug wrote:Does anyone know where I can find info on NES Scart cables?

I got my Top loader NES modded 8 years ago, but the Scart cable is done so weird that the color is fkd up.
It doesnt look like any Scart cable i've ever seen. It has 2 cables that plug into the back of it.
The guy who did the Mod disappeared, so i cant even ask what went into making it.

Also, have Component cables been introduced to NES yet?
I also have SuperG's Component Selector.
I assume this is RGB SCART? If so, they are all mods so ultimately just depend on how it's installed as to what cable you need. If you've got some pics we might be able to provide a little more info. Also pics of how the colours look.
Idk how to add pics.
Web 1.0 never made that easy.

Yes this is RGB Scart.
Can I email you a pic?
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

Robothug wrote:
Kez wrote:
Robothug wrote:Does anyone know where I can find info on NES Scart cables?

I got my Top loader NES modded 8 years ago, but the Scart cable is done so weird that the color is fkd up.
It doesnt look like any Scart cable i've ever seen. It has 2 cables that plug into the back of it.
The guy who did the Mod disappeared, so i cant even ask what went into making it.

Also, have Component cables been introduced to NES yet?
I also have SuperG's Component Selector.
I assume this is RGB SCART? If so, they are all mods so ultimately just depend on how it's installed as to what cable you need. If you've got some pics we might be able to provide a little more info. Also pics of how the colours look.
Idk how to add pics.
Web 1.0 never made that easy.

Yes this is RGB Scart.
Can I email you a pic?
I think what Kez means is that we'd need more info across the board. Because the NES RGB conversion isn't universal, you'd need to know your adapter plug as well as pin layout. Re: your described RGB setup it sounds like it has the audio separated from the video (the 2 cables). If the color is messing up it could be a dozen different reasons.

If you want to attach an image imgur is usually pretty good to upload to and will give you a link that should post well on here.

NES component cables will likely never exist because the only universal tapping point is composite video which is...not great.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Hello,

I have designed a power supply replacement for Dreamcast, similar footprint as DreamPSU but very different design.

My design is intended to be low ripple and low noise as much as reasonably possible. Please check its pictures and scope measurements here: https://imgur.com/a/6PvqOcR

I have tested latest prototype with the following results:

Stock PSU: 70 mV p-p.
My PSU: 9 mV p-p of ripple, about 30 mV p-p total noise and ripple. noise spikes are not a lot.
Competitor PSU (ReDream): about 20 mV p-p ripple, and about 45-50 mV p-p noise and ripple.

Expected price is 50$ but I could get it to 45$ if all circumstances are perfect or so.

Do you think it is a good upgrade over current solutions?
Do you think the price is ok?
What do you expect the market to be for such a product?
anyone interested in testing it in a better way? for me, found no visual artifacts or anything. temperature is as cold as it can be, colder than stock and redream. I may make another prototype but this one seems good enough as I tested it for hours and hours with perfect result.

Looking forward to your opinions.
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Ed Oscuro
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Ed Oscuro »

Would be good to have a version that outperforms the original. Interesting harmonic (?) spikes showing up regularly, could it be possible to further filter those out?

DreamPSU got rubbished by Voultar and the writeup on RetroRGB reflects that. But this looks decent from the scope shots.
https://www.retrorgb.com/dreamcast-repl ... lysed.html
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Ed Oscuro wrote:Would be good to have a version that outperforms the original. Interesting harmonic (?) spikes showing up regularly, could it be possible to further filter those out?

DreamPSU got rubbished by Voultar and the writeup on RetroRGB reflects that. But this looks decent from the scope shots.
https://www.retrorgb.com/dreamcast-repl ... lysed.html
well, yes original dreampsu looked very noisy or so. so I decided to make my own, I changed the design more than 5 times. I don't know if I can further filter that but assuming it stays this way, I think it is good enough. realistically it is very hard to filter everything especially that the 12v wall adapter is not always good and you don't know its performance + switching supply nature of being with ripple and stuff. mine it is very close to a linear psu as possible.

I guess I have one prototype available for anyone who has interest in testing it with his system and scope. I have some ideas about how to further filter these spikes but honestly I don't expect much improvement... let alone the price of 50$ which already seems big. what do you think?
Mosfet
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Mosfet »

Hi, here a question concerning CRT hours and image quality correlation. I'm thinking about purchasing a BVM but all I can reach locally got quite long operation hours. I lack the experience of comparing CRTs with long operation hours to relatively new CRTs so I'd love to hear your opinions about it.

If we grade a brand new CRT a score of one hundred, how would you evaluate a 10K, 30K, 60K and 100K hour CRT based on their image quality and performance for retro gaming (not professional color calibration capability or HD video performance)? Of course there will be many differences in specific models however I think there should be a general attenuation curve or something that can give me a rough idea. Also I'd be more interested in the decay of CRT parts rather than the electronic parts as we can still replace caps but not the tube. Thank you!
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

Mosfet wrote:Hi, here a question concerning CRT hours and image quality correlation. I'm thinking about purchasing a BVM but all I can reach locally got quite long operation hours. I lack the experience of comparing CRTs with long operation hours to relatively new CRTs so I'd love to hear your opinions about it.

If we grade a brand new CRT a score of one hundred, how would you evaluate a 10K, 30K, 60K and 100K hour CRT based on their image quality and performance for retro gaming (not professional color calibration capability or HD video performance)? Of course there will be many differences in specific models however I think there should be a general attenuation curve or something that can give me a rough idea. Also I'd be more interested in the decay of CRT parts rather than the electronic parts as we can still replace caps but not the tube. Thank you!
1. no one has the dataset to be able to compile anything useful.
2. every CRT had different uses. Some might've been on for many hours but had proper video played keeping things fairly evenly worn whereas another might have only been on for an hour a day and displayed the exact same monochromatic menu that which would mess up the phosphors and to a lesser extent (I assume) the guns.

It's *nice* to get a low hour set because you can make an assumption about it, but there have been many, many reports of people on here with higher use sets that work 100%. It's entirely up to chance.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

Einzelherz wrote:1. no one has the dataset to be able to compile anything useful.
Not quite correct. ALL the major manufacturers had HUGE datasets from DECADES spanning tons of models and revisions – which is part of the reason why certain parts/boards/ways of doing things were tweaked between models because they were the ones who were actually fixing these (or heard from the certified people who were), or hearing complaints about from end users, or knew which spare parts they were selling a LOT more of than they should have been. They also have schedules of when to replace certain parts, which values on certain parts were too far off (if they hadn't quite reached that period of time but still needed to be replaced) and should be replaced, or internally tweaked to get back to that certain range, etc. etc. etc. On BVM's especially this was near down to a science the last couple model lines, and TONS of this info is in the service manuals - which is why the service manual for my BVM-D20 is 239 pages for instance and actually STILL doesn't go into it all lol.



Einzelherz wrote:2. every CRT had different uses. Some might've been on for many hours but had proper video played keeping things fairly evenly worn whereas another might have only been on for an hour a day and displayed the exact same monochromatic menu that which would mess up the phosphors and to a lesser extent (I assume) the guns.
Mosfet is talking about BVM's here. Back in the day it would be crazy rare to use a color graded BVM to display a monochromatic menu, that simply wasn't something most people would drop ~$14,000 - $40,000 on a 20"+ model to use it for. The worse you might see (which I still haven't personally seen and I've had more than a few come through me) is something like a certain film editing before/after (or similar window type setup) software grid setup, but even then the BVM was mostly used as the final viewing of the entire scene. Of course use after their original owner could get questionable, but still the vast majority of their life was STILL spent at those locations in most situations.

I would also WAY rather have the unit used for a mere hour a day - that would be the absolutely ideal low-hour unit to seek out.



Mosfet wrote:Hi, here a question concerning CRT hours and image quality correlation. I'm thinking about purchasing a BVM but all I can reach locally got quite long operation hours. I lack the experience of comparing CRTs with long operation hours to relatively new CRTs so I'd love to hear your opinions about it.

If we grade a brand new CRT a score of one hundred, how would you evaluate a 10K, 30K, 60K and 100K hour CRT based on their image quality and performance for retro gaming (not professional color calibration capability or HD video performance)? Of course there will be many differences in specific models however I think there should be a general attenuation curve or something that can give me a rough idea.
Back to the original question, these complicated monitors are like cars. There's like 20,000+ parts (ok, not that many but the friggin parts list is 42 pages long at least!!!). Just like a car you can see how well it drives (or looks) but you have no way to know exactly what's happening inside, or which part(s) could last another 10 years, or die next week. There CAN be clues though... one of the most important is that hour count. It's totally true that's not the end-all be all, but just like mileage on a car is can help us determine, or take an educated guess, about what condition it SHOULD be in (but not always what condition it IS actually in - if you know what I mean).

Sony's rule of thumb is for color accuracy the tube should be swapped at 30K hours. Of course as gamers 100% correct color accuracy isn't top on most of our lists, so my personal general rule of thumb is 40K hours or so and it should still look very nice and vibrant. BUT, at that 30K realm, where a professional studio would have had the tube swapped, and since that requires recalibrating a TON of other things as well, at that period of time they most likely replaced some parts which were getting near the end of their life (or at least checked a ton of different non-tube parts)... which that monitor with the original tube at 40K+ most likely didn't have done... so performance might start to suffer after that. I personally wouldn't even consider paying big bucks for a completely unknown monitor with over 30K hours myself. Sure, if you know the guy, or he's trusted in the community and has the knowledge to run a tube tester on it and really do a rundown on the internals, THEN I might stretch my rule a bit, but it would still have to be a drastically lower price for the higher hours.

BUT, just like cars, you can have good luck and not touch a thing but tires and brakes in 200,000 miles.... or people can have their transmission fail at like 50K... that's just how everything goes in this world. I've seen BVM's with issues at 10K. Also seen perfect (to my eyes, not to a colorimeter) with like 40K, 50K hours...

Anyway, I would aim for around that 30K number as a max. Drastically above that and they should have gotten serviced and a tube swap, and many techs liked to write on the tube the swap date and/or hopefully hours too. Also check that the serial number on-screen matches the back - otherwise the ISR -I believe it is- module could have been swapped and that keeps the hour log in it too... When I get there I would request a cold turn-on - you can tell if it's been ran before you arrive by if the fins on the back are warm or not. See how long it takes to warm up - don't believe that '30 minute warm up' thing - that's only for perfect colors, it should look amazing literally within a minute (or I would walk away from the deal). Run through ALL the inputs, all different types of sync. Run the test patterns at channel 94? and above, look to make sure the white grid is ONLY white no other colors. The pure white is pure white everywhere. Hopefully you bring 240p test suite too (my eyes much prefer more solid 240p than flickery 480i for testing purposes). Bring an IR light if you're worried about burn-in (which FYI I have monitors that I see burn-in with the IR but have NEVER seen even a hint of it in actual use... so YMMV here).



Mosfet wrote:Also I'd be more interested in the decay of CRT parts rather than the electronic parts as we can still replace caps but not the tube. Thank you!
This doesn't really hold true anymore either. Well, kinda... the tube IS the biggest thing that can't be replaced easily (or at all in many, many cases especially if you aren't active in multiple groups + a big heaping of luck), but good luck finding a flyback too (honestly, for a popular 20" BVM size I would say the flyback is WAY harder to get... I've had alerts on eBay for my three for like 4+ years now... not a single hit, well one which wasn't like $500). There's also integrated circuits they haven't made in like 10+ years - sure, way less likely to fail but still something if it goes the monitor is toast. Also the problem for most of us is even if something quote-on-quote 'simple' fails, who around you can actually fix it if you can't do it yourself? Who could diagnose the actual problem to begin with for you to even know what exactly IS broke?
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

besides my dreamcast psu that i am trying to enhance even further, I am working on an analog video converter which takes either scart rgb or vga rgbhv, then converts them to component, s-video, and composite at the same time.

everything is finished but i still didn't order the first prototype due to personal circumstances... but wanted to know if people are really interested in such solution and how much cost is reasonable? something like 99$ is good, or 80$ or so?

it will have selector switches to select between scart and vga, and another switch between scart pin 20 sync or scart green pin sync source. also another switch to select between pal, ntsc, or auto detect for input video standard.

this post is just to get some opinions, this will take some time to get into my hand.

PICTURES (board + cover board): https://imgur.com/a/dpgIdv1

best regards friends
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

VEGETA wrote:but wanted to know if people are really interested in such solution and how much cost is reasonable? something like 99$ is good, or 80$ or so?
Which chips would be used? Think the one people liked is the Sony CXA2075 for s-video/composite.

And Linuxbot3000 makes quasi-similar (one to YPbPr, another to S-Video/Composite) for $55 w/ nice metal cases and using modern USB-C for power for a quasi-comparison.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Dochartaigh wrote:
VEGETA wrote:but wanted to know if people are really interested in such solution and how much cost is reasonable? something like 99$ is good, or 80$ or so?
Which chips would be used? Think the one people liked is the Sony CXA2075 for s-video/composite.

And Linuxbot3000 makes quasi-similar (one to YPbPr, another to S-Video/Composite) for $55 w/ nice metal cases and using modern USB-C for power for a quasi-comparison.
I won't be having any cast, just PCBs with standoffs. s-video and cvbs encoder is ad725, while component with high quality high bandwidth opamp circuits. sync stripper is there too...etc
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

VEGETA wrote:
I won't be having any case, just PCBs with standoffs. s-video and cvbs encoder is ad725, while component with high quality high bandwidth opamp circuits. sync stripper is there too...etc
Myself personally, I wouldn't be interested in a bare board type device. This is why I don't own a RGBS to YPbPr/S-Video/Composite device right now, despite owning pretty much everything else like this in existence lol. There's many different DIY and bare-board ones (meant for all the arcade people), and those along with yours: what are people going to screw those standoffs into? A steel case of a ~$1000+ BVM or the plastic back of a ~$500+ PVM? Into my nice steel or wood desk, or entertainment center?

...that's a pet peeve of mine, but I don't have a single device that's bare-PCB anywhere in my house (or anybodies house I know... and I know a lot of retro dorks like myself lol... even every single Raspberry Pi or Mister has a case...). Yes, you can get little sticky feet PCB standoffs but those ALWAYS fall off over time.

Just food for thought as I really can't think of any use-case scenario except an arcade cabinet with the particle board meant for mounting such things, or people like supergluing or velcro'ing it to the weak 1/8" thick crappy particle board on the back of their entertainment centers/ikea cube setups.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Dochartaigh wrote:
VEGETA wrote:
I won't be having any case, just PCBs with standoffs. s-video and cvbs encoder is ad725, while component with high quality high bandwidth opamp circuits. sync stripper is there too...etc
Myself personally, I wouldn't be interested in a bare board type device. This is why I don't own a RGBS to YPbPr/S-Video/Composite device right now, despite owning pretty much everything else like this in existence lol. There's many different DIY and bare-board ones (meant for all the arcade people), and those along with yours: what are people going to screw those standoffs into? A steel case of a ~$1000+ BVM or the plastic back of a ~$500+ PVM? Into my nice steel or wood desk, or entertainment center?

...that's a pet peeve of mine, but I don't have a single device that's bare-PCB anywhere in my house (or anybodies house I know... and I know a lot of retro dorks like myself lol... even every single Raspberry Pi or Mister has a case...). Yes, you can get little sticky feet PCB standoffs but those ALWAYS fall off over time.

Just food for thought as I really can't think of any use-case scenario except an arcade cabinet with the particle board meant for mounting such things, or people like supergluing or velcro'ing it to the weak 1/8" thick crappy particle board on the back of their entertainment centers/ikea cube setups.

my point is the device would be like the original retrotink 2x (now called the classic) but instead of a glass top I get a pcb top (this one is just a cover plate, no connections). having a case will have a lot more cost so that 99$ price will be impossible. It could be a future enhancement though. getting a cheap case is doable but certainly not at first.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Has anyone gone past dual-modding a stick? I have a Brook Retro in a Hori Fighting Edge with the original Hori board that covers PS3/4/5. The Retro Board can't do Genesis/MD or Neo Geo though so I was considering adding a third output to it that goes into a project box, with a straight wire connection for Neo Geo and a padhack for Genesis/MD.

Am I going to start hitting amperage limits though? Any connected board/PCB needs power for the dual/tri mod to work, so should that be a concern? I'm assuming controller 5V lines on consoles are likely very low amperage.
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Konsolkongen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Konsolkongen »

Yes. I have Brook Universal Fighting Board + MC Cthulhu + Mega Drive 6B + Dreamcast (arcade stick PCB with VMU) in one of mine, with direct connection for Neo Geo. Haven't had any issues with that :)
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Konsolkongen wrote:Yes. I have Brook Universal Fighting Board + MC Cthulhu + Mega Drive 6B + Dreamcast (arcade stick PCB with VMU) in one of mine, with direct connection for Neo Geo. Haven't had any issues with that :)
Haha, nice, glad to hear it. Is all that crammed into your stick body?

I'm trying to search for something to put the Genesis PCB and another microcontroller board I want to use for experimental stuff into. Best I could find was some plain plastic project boxes I'll have to drill holes in and I guess get grommets for, anything with precut wiring holes was super tiny.

For example here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006094436.html

Not really sure what to search for for alternatives is the problem... Are these all "project boxes" or what?

Hopefully I don't hit any problems with the Hori board when adding more. It's a little weird and doesn't power up properly when its USB isn't plugged in and I'm using the Retro Board, except right now I've found that shorting the 2 data lines on the USB pins will get it to power up properly, maybe that's enough for it to think it's plugged in. I just have that wired up to one of the switches on the Fighting Edge at the moment.
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Konsolkongen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Konsolkongen »

Yeah there’s plenty of space in that stick. It’s one of the Hori ones originally for 360. I did combine the MD 6B and the MC Cthulhu into one custom PCB with headers for Brook and stick/buttons as well as multiplexers to swap top and bottom rows of buttons. But there’s still room for even more :)
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Ed Oscuro
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Ed Oscuro »

VEGETA wrote:besides my dreamcast psu that i am trying to enhance even further, I am working on an analog video converter which takes either scart rgb or vga rgbhv, then converts them to component, s-video, and composite at the same time.
I don't know what I'll be able to support financially, but all your projects have my interest and I wish you good luck!

Depending on the system...there may be some systems I would ultimately like new PSU designs for. DC is an interesting one but I don't use it enough to have it as a high priority.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

hello,

during my twin famicon nesrgb mod I lost the power button spring and plastic part. anyway I can fix the situation?

here are the pics of what is remaining: https://imgur.com/a/NJaBGLi
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Gunstar
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Gunstar »

It seems voltage regulator L78S05CV-DG double gauge (recommended for the SNES vertical bar fix) has been discontinued but the single gauge version (L78S05CV) is still available, does anybody know if it's fine to use? specs-wise it looks the same, I assume the only thing affected would be to do with how heat is transferred?
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Odolwa
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Odolwa »

This is in regard to the Tim Worthington RGB Deblur mod for the N64. One option available is to enable 15-bit mode. What is 15-bit mode?
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

Gunstar wrote:It seems voltage regulator L78S05CV-DG double gauge (recommended for the SNES vertical bar fix) has been discontinued but the single gauge version (L78S05CV) is still available, does anybody know if it's fine to use? specs-wise it looks the same, I assume the only thing affected would be to do with how heat is transferred?
yes the dual is for thicker heatsink.

check original snes heatsink used and see if it is enough, or just add an external one if you can fit it.
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