Questions that do not deserve a thread

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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

HDgaming42 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
HDgaming42 wrote:I did back up the EEPROM, but without a programmer I don't imagine that will do me much good will it?

I *did* change the key to both HDDs, so maybe you're on to something. Can't imagine how the BIOS could have changed.

The only difference between it working and not was the removal of the clock capacitor. I have half a mind to just put it back in and see that happens.
It looked like there were some programs that can use the EEPROM backup to lock/unlock your hard drive. Assuming you can get the file off of it and get it connected to a Windows PC.

Some odd posts here and there say older rocky5 versions had problems without the clock capacitor. I think the newer ones will automatically set the clock to a certain date on boot. Not sure what's going on, but you could replace it with another capacitor if you want. When I removed mine it had some leakage and corrosion underneath it that wasn't visible before, so they're definitely ticking time bombs.
I saw those warnings too, and ensured I was on the newest Rocky5. Good lord I should have left the stock HDD stock. I guess I'll order a new cap and see for the pennies it will cost. Mine too had corrosion underneath, but it was minimal and didn't affect any traces.

The odds of me digging up a PC old enough to interface with xbox HDDs is probably low. Guess this goes on the back-burner until I can get a new cap.
Yeah that's a strange one, everyone says to remove the cap unless you have a 1.6 console, in which case you have to replace it. The worst that's supposed to happen on a stock system is it asks you for the date every time you launch it. And the first thing tons of people do with their softmodded console is replace the hard drive.

I'd try the original xbox subreddit as well, see if anyone has any ideas. That's where I see most tutorials and mentions of softmodding. https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by HDgaming42 »

HDgaming42 wrote:
vol.2 wrote:
HDgaming42 wrote: Is it just an adhesive, or does it have thermal properties? Any guesses, as I don't have any of whatever that is...
Spoiler
Image
Yes. It is hot glue.

I have some doubts if replacing the caps will fix the issue (unless you have detectived it to that point). If you want help figuring out what is wrong with it you should post more thorough information.
How right you were. Finally had time to fire up my iron. Cap replacement showed no improvement. I'd love a hand trouble-shooting if you have the time. When initially powered on the woofer overextends and makes a loud "pop" sound. A slight hum/buzz can be heard that slowly increases in volume. Powering the monitor off results in an even bigger pop. This is without any inputs attached. Multiple power cords.
Wow--didn't realize I didn't include any details in the original post. I'm trying to fix a Mackie 624 mkII powered monitor (audio). They're notorious for having a particular cap fail, and I've fixed 5 of them following this guide:
http://sittingtime.com/mackie-hr624-repair/

The monitor was dead, just like the others so I replaced the same cap. However after the cap replacement it started doing this popping/hum thing. I actually redid my cap replacement just in case I'd screwed it up but it persists. It's a super easy replacement job and this was my 6th one, so I doubt it's something I did...I hope.

The schematic can be found here:
https://music-electronics-forum.com/fil ... ?id=830058
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

HDgaming42 wrote: The monitor was dead, just like the others so I replaced the same cap. However after the cap replacement it started doing this popping/hum thing. I actually redid my cap replacement just in case I'd screwed it up but it persists. It's a super easy replacement job and this was my 6th one, so I doubt it's something I did...I hope.
The fact that replacing that cap didn't fix it in the same way means that you have to start digging around. First thing to do is to check the components immediately connected to the cap that fails. It's possible that the failure of that particular cap on that unit was more catastrophic than others, and you had a dead short (or close to it). That could blow up a transistor, and slow popping/hum could be a symptom of that.

You might get lucky and find the bad part by visual examination, but these things don't always go as planned, and bad components don't always look bad.

You need to get one of those cheap-o component testers off fleabay. something like THIS

But it doesn't have to be that, it can be any of those cheap ones you can find everywhere.

That device plus a multimeter should give you enough of an idea if parts are bad or not. It won't tell you if the parts are 100%, but it will tell you if the part (transistor, resistor, capacitor) is totally fried or leaky. Then you can use your multimeter to test the internal resistance of the caps. That should tell you if they have gone leaky (leaking AC, not electrolyte).

Like I said, it could be easy if you stumble upon the bad component, or it could take forever. There's no shortcuts outside of "known bad parts" on specific pieces of equipment, which you thankfully have a web page on.

If you find no other bad components next to the bad cap you replaced, I would then suggest turning your attention to the power supply section. Bad or intermittent voltage on one of the rails could cause that.

If you get totally stumped, try to contact the guy who wrote that page. If that proved fruitless, go to one or both of these forums: diyaudio, or audiokarma and check for the correct place to ask for help. The more work you put into the post explaining what you have tried, the higher quality your answer will be.

good luck
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by HDgaming42 »

vol.2 wrote:
HDgaming42 wrote: The monitor was dead, just like the others so I replaced the same cap. However after the cap replacement it started doing this popping/hum thing. I actually redid my cap replacement just in case I'd screwed it up but it persists. It's a super easy replacement job and this was my 6th one, so I doubt it's something I did...I hope.
The fact that replacing that cap didn't fix it in the same way means that you have to start digging around. First thing to do is to check the components immediately connected to the cap that fails. It's possible that the failure of that particular cap on that unit was more catastrophic than others, and you had a dead short (or close to it). That could blow up a transistor, and slow popping/hum could be a symptom of that.

You might get lucky and find the bad part by visual examination, but these things don't always go as planned, and bad components don't always look bad.

You need to get one of those cheap-o component testers off fleabay. something like THIS

But it doesn't have to be that, it can be any of those cheap ones you can find everywhere.

That device plus a multimeter should give you enough of an idea if parts are bad or not. It won't tell you if the parts are 100%, but it will tell you if the part (transistor, resistor, capacitor) is totally fried or leaky. Then you can use your multimeter to test the internal resistance of the caps. That should tell you if they have gone leaky (leaking AC, not electrolyte).

Like I said, it could be easy if you stumble upon the bad component, or it could take forever. There's no shortcuts outside of "known bad parts" on specific pieces of equipment, which you thankfully have a web page on.

If you find no other bad components next to the bad cap you replaced, I would then suggest turning your attention to the power supply section. Bad or intermittent voltage on one of the rails could cause that.

If you get totally stumped, try to contact the guy who wrote that page. If that proved fruitless, go to one or both of these forums: diyaudio, or audiokarma and check for the correct place to ask for help. The more work you put into the post explaining what you have tried, the higher quality your answer will be.

good luck
Thanks for the detailed response, recommendations and guidance. You're right that this is looking to take a lot more sleuthing than I have time for at the moment, but when I do I'll follow up in more audio-oriented forums. Thanks! :)
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

HDgaming42 wrote: ...
The monitor was dead, just like the others so I replaced the same cap. However after the cap replacement it started doing this popping/hum thing. I actually redid my cap replacement just in case I'd screwed it up but it persists. It's a super easy replacement job and this was my 6th one, so I doubt it's something I did...I hope.

The schematic can be found here:
https://music-electronics-forum.com/fil ... ?id=830058
I can tell you from experience when I was a new ECE student that polarized capacitors (have |( +/- indicators in diagram) will hum when you pass the wrong polarity voltage into them. Will swell up and explode if voltage is too high in a matter of seconds.

Looking at the diagram, I see C65 in the middle right. The D25 diode under it allows only negative voltage from the 29VAC-1 AC source that protects C65. You should replace D25 and D16 as a preventative measure due to recap not helping. Buy the cheap component tester vol.2 linked. Remove and test the nearby transistors with it in that area if new diodes don't fix. Measure the Vrms of the 29VAC-1 source and confirm it's correct.

Since you do so much circuit work, I'd also recommend a $60-120 ESR meter. You can't measure a capacitor in-circuit correctly with regular tools if it's not isolated from other complex impedances. The ESR meter measures, well, the equivalent series resistance of a capacitor without having to remove it from the circuit. Near end of life, a capacitor can show correct F but not work correctly and the high R is the way to prove it. A 2.0 ohm measurement might not seem high but an ideal capacitor has 0 ohm ESR.
Guile
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

Is there a 4k hdmi splitter that can output 4k on one output and 1080p on the other? I have an xbox one x and I was using a splitter that would output 4k on a 4k tv and 1080p when connected to a 1080p tv but now the xbox gets stuck in 1080p mode unless I reset my switch and splitter. It used to return to outputting 4k once I turned off the other display.
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Guspaz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

If you're talking about different resolutions for different outputs, that's not a splitter, that's a scaler. HD Fury makes some combo splitter/scalers, the Integral 2 sounds to be exactly what you're asking for. It goes for $249 USD.

https://hdfury.com/product/integral-2/

It doesn't do 4K120 4:4:4, though, only 4K60. And HDR only with 4:2:2. You want 4K120 at 4:4:4, or HDR 4K60 at 4:4:4, you need something like the 8k vrroom, which goes for $419. There's virtually no selection of HDMI 2.1 scalers/splitters on the market other than it.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Fudoh »

There's virtually no selection of HDMI 2.1 scalers/splitters on the market other than it.
The problem with splitters and HDMI 2.1 is that some of the HDMI 2.1 features heavily rely on the communication between the source and the sink. This wouldn't be problematic if two 100% identical displays are connected, but it opens a whole can of worms once different displays are connected. The lower-spec'ed display would now dictate the source capabilities, thus crippling the higher-spec'ed display.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by strayan »

Guile wrote:Is there a 4k hdmi splitter that can output 4k on one output and 1080p on the other? I have an xbox one x and I was using a splitter that would output 4k on a 4k tv and 1080p when connected to a 1080p tv but now the xbox gets stuck in 1080p mode unless I reset my switch and splitter. It used to return to outputting 4k once I turned off the other display.
Maybe this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaX50cL2BG8
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Guspaz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

That's kind of doing the same thing with multiple devices. You need a 4K splitter combined with a 4K downscaler. This could potentially be cheaper than the HD Fury option, but the big worry would be compatibility. The comments on that video seems to have multiple people saying "I bought both of the devices you showed and it doesn't work".
Guile
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

The hdfury looks good but too expensive for me. I thought about using a splitter with a downscaler but I can't find a 4k to 1080p downscaler. I actually don't need simultaneous output so is there some simpler way of switching back and forth between 4k and 1080p?

The splitter I'm using now is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-avedio- ... 07XCZC6SP/

I tested it again and it actually does output both 4k and 1080p simultaneously but the 4k loses hdr and when the 1080p display is off the xbox still says hdr is not available. If I unplug the splitter power and power it again then it does show all hdr and other features as supported.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Guile wrote: I tested it again and it actually does output both 4k and 1080p simultaneously but the 4k loses hdr and when the 1080p display is off the xbox still says hdr is not available. If I unplug the splitter power and power it again then it does show all hdr and other features as supported.
The product description says it can upscale to 4k internally and does so automatically. It's a cheap solution with basically no exposed settings, so it's not going to be perfect for every setup.
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a screen or monitor or TV i can use for my KVM? Not necessarily games related, but definitely hardware! I have an HDMI KVM that has been outputting to a 40" Sceptre TV, but it recently died. The catch is i convert the HDMI output into a VGA port in the TV so that it sleeps and can be woken by mouse movement. The devices on the KVM are HDMI outputting PC's. I'd rather not spend much on it, which is why i haven't just bought a monitor. My only other requirement is at least 1080p.

I'm open to anything, even if there's is something that will wake from mouse movement on HDMI if it exists?
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

ldeveraux wrote:
I'm open to anything, even if there's is something that will wake from mouse movement on HDMI if it exists?
AFAIK, every monitor I've ever used sleeps when my computer tells it to, as configurable in Windows. The monitor being used, and the connector I use (VGA, DVI, HDMI) makes zero difference. This is not the same as the computer going to sleep, which I set to "off," it's just the monitor which turns off after some amount of inactivity (I think I have it set to 3 hours).

They all will turn back on again with mouse button click, but that's all done in windows and has nothing to do with the monitor. The monitor is simply shutting itself off because Windows stops outputting video.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by strayan »

Guspaz wrote:That's kind of doing the same thing with multiple devices. You need a 4K splitter combined with a 4K downscaler. This could potentially be cheaper than the HD Fury option, but the big worry would be compatibility. The comments on that video seems to have multiple people saying "I bought both of the devices you showed and it doesn't work".
He may just be able to add a 4K EDID minded between his xbox and the switch he already has with something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SSD8VR8/re ... UTF8&psc=1
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

vol.2 wrote:
ldeveraux wrote:
I'm open to anything, even if there's is something that will wake from mouse movement on HDMI if it exists?
AFAIK, every monitor I've ever used sleeps when my computer tells it to, as configurable in Windows. The monitor being used, and the connector I use (VGA, DVI, HDMI) makes zero difference. This is not the same as the computer going to sleep, which I set to "off," it's just the monitor which turns off after some amount of inactivity (I think I have it set to 3 hours).

They all will turn back on again with mouse button click, but that's all done in windows and has nothing to do with the monitor. The monitor is simply shutting itself off because Windows stops outputting video.
But monitors are designed to do what you're suggesting, which is what i want. Every tv I've tried in this situation will not turn on from the HDMI port. I should say it will not wake from HDMI. Only VGA.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

ldeveraux wrote:But monitors are designed to do what you're suggesting, which is what i want. Every tv I've tried in this situation will not turn on from the HDMI port. I should say it will not wake from HDMI. Only VGA.
I don't have experience with using TVs with my PC. My projector is HDMI and has no problems waking up from a mouse.

AFAIK, you shouldn't have any issues with a PC monitor. The current crop of monitors has lots of compromises, but I would probably opt for an IPS screen. The downside to IPS is that most of them have kind of crappy light haloing from the LED backlighting. My old CCFL IPS screen doesn't have the issue, but it's also not nearly as bright and contrasty as modern LED monitors.

The other option is MVA, which has blacker blacks, but you get some contrast shift when you view off angle, so they are no good unless you are sitting directly in front of them. They are still better than TN screens, but noticeably worse than IPS for viewing angle.

Anything better that those two options will cost you an arm and a leg, so just pick one. Buy the highest rated one you can find on the most convenient etailer of your choice.

LG seems to be pretty popular right now. They have good pictures, and the only big issue is the backlight bleeding, but that's present on all IPS (other than the panasonic screens that will cost you between $1200-4000 from NEC, and the new ASUS micro LED FALD screens).
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

vol.2 wrote:
ldeveraux wrote:But monitors are designed to do what you're suggesting, which is what i want. Every tv I've tried in this situation will not turn on from the HDMI port. I should say it will not wake from HDMI. Only VGA.
I don't have experience with using TVs with my PC. My projector is HDMI and has no problems waking up from a mouse.

AFAIK, you shouldn't have any issues with a PC monitor. The current crop of monitors has lots of compromises, but I would probably opt for an IPS screen. The downside to IPS is that most of them have kind of crappy light haloing from the LED backlighting. My old CCFL IPS screen doesn't have the issue, but it's also not nearly as bright and contrasty as modern LED monitors.

The other option is MVA, which has blacker blacks, but you get some contrast shift when you view off angle, so they are no good unless you are sitting directly in front of them. They are still better than TN screens, but noticeably worse than IPS for viewing angle.

Anything better that those two options will cost you an arm and a leg, so just pick one. Buy the highest rated one you can find on the most convenient etailer of your choice.

LG seems to be pretty popular right now. They have good pictures, and the only big issue is the backlight bleeding, but that's present on all IPS (other than the panasonic screens that will cost you between $1200-4000 from NEC, and the new ASUS micro LED FALD screens).
I don't think you understood what i was asking. I know from monitors, i recognize they are made specifically for this purpose. But they are expensive and not readily available at 40". I know that all inputs will wake the monitor from a PC. But I'm looking for a TV that will wake on any input at all, easier if it's HDMI so i don't have to convert it to VGA. I found the Sceptre that would do that, but it died and i was hoping for a better option other than a $1000 monitor.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a screen or monitor or TV i can use for my KVM?
It sounded like you were just searching for any recommendation, not just a TV. As I said, I don't really use TVs as monitors. However, I can confirm that the Panasonics plasma TV at my parents house will sleep with Windows and wake from a mouse button because I had to use it two weeks ago when I was there helping take care of my mom. I also can confirm that at least some Samsung TVs will work correctly as monitors because my coworker uses a 40" Samsung TV in the office and it's definitely connected over HDMI. I would be tempted to say that they generally "just work," but I wouldn't want you to find out the hard way that the TV you pick doesn't work.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

vol.2 wrote:
Does anyone have a good recommendation for a screen or monitor or TV i can use for my KVM?
It sounded like you were just searching for any recommendation, not just a TV. As I said, I don't really use TVs as monitors. However, I can confirm that the Panasonics plasma TV at my parents house will sleep with Windows and wake from a mouse button because I had to use it two weeks ago when I was there helping take care of my mom. I also can confirm that at least some Samsung TVs will work correctly as monitors because my coworker uses a 40" Samsung TV in the office and it's definitely connected over HDMI. I would be tempted to say that they generally "just work," but I wouldn't want you to find out the hard way that the TV you pick doesn't work.
Thanks! That's kinda what I thought, but as you said, I don't want to buy a tv and have it not work as I want, then have to find another. I may look into Samsungs that have that capability now.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Osirus »

From my experience TVs don't function like PC monitors. When the display "sleeps", as in the PC stops outputting video, TVs usually display a blue screen or some sort instead of turning off the way PC monitors do. That's how it is for the Samsung TVs I own.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

Osirus wrote:From my experience TVs don't function like PC monitors. When the display "sleeps", as in the PC stops outputting video, TVs usually display a blue screen or some sort instead of turning off the way PC monitors do. That's how it is for the Samsung TVs I own.
But does the screen shut off or is there a screensaver of sorts? The former is what I'm looking for, not a screen saver. Yes, basically need a 40" TV that acts like a monitor and isn't ultrawide.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

ldeveraux wrote:
Osirus wrote:From my experience TVs don't function like PC monitors. When the display "sleeps", as in the PC stops outputting video, TVs usually display a blue screen or some sort instead of turning off the way PC monitors do. That's how it is for the Samsung TVs I own.
But does the screen shut off or is there a screensaver of sorts? The former is what I'm looking for, not a screen saver. Yes, basically need a 40" TV that acts like a monitor and isn't ultrawide.
Since we’re in the same general neck of the woods, I *highly* suggest taking a look around Facebook Marketplace - it’s got an endlessly shifting supply of displays to choose from, many of which are often free! One of the perks of living in a smallish yet densely-populated region ;)
ldeveraux
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ldeveraux »

kitty666cats wrote:
ldeveraux wrote:
Osirus wrote:From my experience TVs don't function like PC monitors. When the display "sleeps", as in the PC stops outputting video, TVs usually display a blue screen or some sort instead of turning off the way PC monitors do. That's how it is for the Samsung TVs I own.
But does the screen shut off or is there a screensaver of sorts? The former is what I'm looking for, not a screen saver. Yes, basically need a 40" TV that acts like a monitor and isn't ultrawide.
Since we’re in the same general neck of the woods, I *highly* suggest taking a look around Facebook Marketplace - it’s got an endlessly shifting supply of displays to choose from, many of which are often free! One of the perks of living in a smallish yet densely-populated region ;)
I don't mind buying new vs used, it's less about the money. It's more about getting the right part for my needs! I'm having trouble finding a TV (not monitor) that will accept an HDMI PC signal but sleep and wake from a temp sleep state.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

hello

I wonder if LM1881 IC can strip sync from green signal properly into pure stable Csync... anyone knows about it?
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by kitty666cats »

VEGETA wrote:hello

I wonder if LM1881 IC can strip sync from green signal properly into pure stable Csync... anyone knows about it?
Almost certain "yes", but if memory serves me right you *may* run into some wonky-ness with the sync pulses...? I assume you are asking about this in regards to PS2 or PS3, right? An Extron RGB interface would probably be a better bet for 'pure' and 'stable' for RGsB -> RGBS, you could simply run the SoG in with a female 3RCA to male VGA adapter.
pedroTFP
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by pedroTFP »

Are curved monitor like Samsung LC32G75TQSNXZA good for retrogaming @1440p via Retrokink\MiSTer?
Is curved shape good, bad or a non-factor?
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

kitty666cats wrote:
VEGETA wrote:hello

I wonder if LM1881 IC can strip sync from green signal properly into pure stable Csync... anyone knows about it?
Almost certain "yes", but if memory serves me right you *may* run into some wonky-ness with the sync pulses...? I assume you are asking about this in regards to PS2 or PS3, right? An Extron RGB interface would probably be a better bet for 'pure' and 'stable' for RGsB -> RGBS, you could simply run the SoG in with a female 3RCA to male VGA adapter.
well, I read that 1881 requires editing the Rset to be able to properly handle anything more than 15khz which means it won't be suitable for both 15 and 31khz at the same time. I want RGsB for PS2 mainly but for anything that has this for SCART up to 480p\576p for a circuit I am developing... involves ADV7800 for digitizing video.

LMH1980 is certain to work since it is in the main features, but I wanted a cheaper option if possible.
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by NewSchoolBoxer »

I get that RoHS exists in the European Union to restrict harmful substances in electrical devices. How does this play into tin-lead solder? Was it allowed for 5 years but not anymore? Or it is allowed for an individual or small business to sell products with?

Related question, does an S-Video connector exist in crimp or compression form or is it solder-only due to the geometry? Link to product in online store would be stellar.

Edit: Reddit was actually helpful. Document I wanted is here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content ... 5-20210401

My not a lawyer + this is not legal advice interpretation is, no leaded solder for video game console mods or devices. However, specifically video game cables can use leaded solder until 21 July 2024. They fall under Category 11 electronics.

Thanks EU for making unscrewing our devices and licking the solder joints safe.
DiegoPonga
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by DiegoPonga »

Hi guys. Any reliable SNES-to-GC adapter in order to play GameBoy Player with 8bitdo SNES 2.4g controllers?
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