shmups.system11.org

does your display support separate HV sync or do you have the dreamcast wired using c-sync?

the DC doesn't support c-sync in 31kHz mode

You can look at RetroRGB's videos about the 68x card and the skew it gets on the top on the A-Series BVM's. Not quite as bad but it's definitely there on a BVM.

I have a D24, which does not accept RGBHV. My Dreamcast isn't modded yet. I want to know how I can get the sharpest picture out of my Dreamcast with access to 240p/480i and 480p with a single cable.



Yes. The Dreamcast suffers a similar skewed image as the Master System, but is a 31kHz console instead of a 15kHz console and thus cannot be fixed with VCR Mode on 480p.

http://retrorgb.com/bkm-68x.html

https://youtu.be/CneMJC-zTf8
https://youtu.be/SkslzaHJXzE

maxtherabbit is correct in that the DC doesn't support composite sync with 31kHz output; however, you can get 480p RGBS output by using a BeharBros Toro. You need to toggle the switch between the SCART and VGA connectors (I believe it ships in RGBHV mode, so you need to toggle it for RGBS output); and then, looking at the bank of switches on the side, you need to toggle the far-right switch. I forget exactly which position is which, but, if it's not one, then it's the other.

If you don't want a BeharBros VGA box (which I understand; they add probably 8 or 9 inches to the depth of the Dreamcast), I think thefoo.83 sells a SCART cable with a mode switch that might give you 480p over SCART, but I haven't bought or tried one.



So, after watching both videos, I have a better understanding of what's happening to cause the skew, and it looks like it's possible to stabilize the sync signal with another video processor, but not all video processors seem to be capable of smoothing out the signal like the VCR mode on the D-series or the Extron 580xi. If the Dreamcast does cause this behavior on the A-Series BVMs, it makes me wonder if the sync combiner in the Toro makes a difference.

Reposting this from several pages ago:

You could try cleaning the pins, or failing that transplant a connector in from another console.

Pin 3 is d-pad left, check the continuity on that with a multimeter.

http://pinouts.ru/Game/genesiscontroller_pinout.shtml

Does it happen in controller port 2?

I am Aware of that. But the question is about CRT Gaming only. And my new (old) CRT is a 480i only model.So question is if the 480 Image with scart is really that better than S-Video to justify the higher Price of the RGB Scart cable or not..

Where do people get the nice, fully shielded cable used for SCART cables? I need to make an adapter that none of these folks sell and I'm struggling to find good cable to use. I have some Mogami cable that is an 8-pair snake cable, but it is crazy thick, so it won't serve the purpose very well. Need to be able to use it with 8-pin DIN connectors.

I'm not sure about Retro Gaming Cables, but I do know that Retro Access is able to make custom cables, and it looks like they have 8-pin DIN parts. What kind of adapter are you building?

I've emailed both. RGC does not do custom cables, haven't heard back from Retro Access yet. It's a simple little thing, I just want to break out the audio basically. The idea is that I can use the standard cable I already have with my CoreGrafx by itself, getting audio and video from the DIN jack of the CoreGrafx, or plug into the adapter I want to make and to get video from the CoreGrafx and audio from the RCA jacks on an interface unit for use with the CD drive. I need like 6" of cable and a couple plugs, just can't figure out where to get the cable from...

have you exhausted both mouser and digikey? that's where ive purchased such cables before, tho probably not for the same thing. often the best stuff comes in larger quantities and that's why the cable makers can sell it cheaper. it may be a large minimum for a decent price. in the past, when i have made a custom cable for a system, I've purchased a bnc cable from monoprice or mcm electronics. then i cut off one side and solder stuff on. maybe some version of that approach can work for you

Hi all, I thought to post this here, before launching yet another thread that may have been already done to death...

Basically, a good friend of mine is going to move in a new place soon and have a more spacious gameroom, so he's willing to add an arcade cab to his collection. Even though he's pretty great at shmups - he used to lurk around here for hi-scores and challenges, yet he never signed in - he's new to arcade collecting, hence I'm looking for basic infos on his behalf (mind you, I'm even newber... Apologies in advance for the down to the ground level of my questions).

- First of all: what kind of cab comes the most recommended nowadays? He's going to play vertical shmups for the most part, but also has a nice AES/MVS collection, so it's not going to be tate-only gameplay.

- His first pick-up will be Dimahoo, but he's been warned/read stuff about batteries on arcade boards (in general? Is this correct?) reaching some sort of lifespan limit, and dying... So he'd like to know what exactly one needs to especially look at, when jumping into pcb collecting.

- He's located in Italy, just in case some Italian member might want to get in touch and give him some clue directly.

I'm aware similar questions must be super frequent, on here, yet a brief search didn't give me great results, so feel free to just point me in the right direction, if the same topic has been already discussed anywhere else (I'm most active in the OSSC thread, but I'm not a huge poster). Any help would come massively appreciated.

Thank you all! ^_-

Yeah, I've been looking through their website sites as well as Markertek, which is where I've gotten bulk cable in the past. Going direct to the various manufacturers' web sites, it looks like Gelden makes something that would work, but can't find anyone that sells it. I could just get an 8-pin DIN extension cable and tear it open, but I suspect it would not be a nice, shielded cable.

Try getting in touch with Retro Access again. The first time I emailed them, I didn't get a response, but I got one quickly the second time I tried. If they can't outright build you the adapter you want, they might be willing to sell you a length of cable.

@Galdelico: those are actually questions that do deserve a thread.. arcade folks probably do not follow this one (and btw no, it doesn't look like arcade-related topics are frequently discussed here).

What I can tell you even without being much into arcade stuff, is that if your friend wants to play both tate and yoko he's really going to need two cabs. Or a supergun+OSSC+flatscreen for a modern setup (but then he won't enjoy equal bragging rights )

Haha, that sounds about right. I can already see him adding a new cab to the shopping list

Thanks XX, I'll make sure to start a new thread, then.

Does anyone know where I can find quality male to male BNC 75ohm cables? Need 4 of them and I haven't been satisfied with the reviews I've seen on some of the major cable makers I've found

You talking about 4x or 5x BNC's on each end or single?

You can find used or NOS, Extron or Liberty brand off eBay (I prefer Extron with longer leads for my Extron Crosspoint switchers). Maybe $18/each unless you catch a deal. The monoprice, which I have about 15 of, have been perfectly fine as well – some split insulation on a few wires over time, but no noise I can see on my CRT's (I'm just switching over to Extron everything).

Is there any site that sells new Atari 5200 Y-cables?

Question about N64 EverDrive: is the only difference I'll notice between the $107 v2.5 and the $175 v3 just the ability to save and NOT have to reset the console after a save on the v3? I don't need a "real time clock" or "USB port for developers" (and kinda don't even like N64, but an Everdrive, if I can get the $107 one, will be cheaper than the 4-5 games I want to get for n64).

If you haven't already, you should ask at Atariage.

http://atariage.com/forums/forum/46-wanted/

From the way it sounds, yeah, you're better off with the EverDrive 64 v2.5 over the v3. In my case, I went with the v3; I don't need the RTC, but I do know I'm going to forget to hit Reset at some point and lose my progress.

Can anyone recommend a PS1/PS2 to USB adapter that works on Windows 10? I'm aware of the Mayflash Super Dual Box Pro, but it's an older product so I worry about it being detected on Windows 10.

So say I'm in a tough spot in a game, which will take me like 30 tries to get right (ok, I suck at video games - I admit it lol). When I save the game, then reset it so that save sticks in the Everdrive's memory, would I be able to keep loading that same save game after every time I die - as in quickly? (like die, use the special keypress to load game, die again, keypress to load game, die, keypress to load game, etc. etc. etc.)

we're not talking real time saves here, but standard battery/sram saves that original games would support as well.

Oh, that makes a difference then. Does the v3 let you save whenever you want? (like my EverDrive N8/NES one does on most games?)

As far as I know, the ED64 does not support save states; just the regular cartridge saves as Fudoh said.

Has anyone recapped a 20L5 before, and if so how exactly do I get a "cap kit" together for this model? Does anyone have a personal list, documentation or a shopping cart I could work with to recap?

There's not much information on what I specifically need aside from just, "Read the service manual" or "Ask Savon-Pat". I genuinely do not know what I'm supposed to be getting.

What does everyone think of the the Retrotink x2 as a 240p decoder for the OSSC?

For svideo, it's nice enough, but I have been disappointed with the composite output and the loss of sync/HDMI handshake delays over composite.

The Extron CD 400 and XRGB-1 don't lose sync and need HDMI handshake time during some transitions. The loss of sync is double frustrating because the Retrotink needs time to handshake with the DAC, and the OSSC needs time to handshake with the switch, and the switch has to handshake with the display. It's a jarring delay. SMB triggers loss of sync during transitions the Atari also loses sync at black screens (over composite).

I rate the comb filter of the Retrotink x2 with the DVDO. The XRGB-1 and CD 400 look better to my eyes.

Definitely a mixed bag for me. Svideo is great, composite not so much.

Edit: Power cycling the device and trying again seems to have gotten rid of the odd sync drops for now, but the composite output remains the same quality: a little blurry.

Please excuse cell photos, but you can see what I'm talking about.

CRT TV (direct composite)


Retrotink 2x 240p > HDFury Nano > OSSC linex5
Yes, it's in focus!


XRGB-1 > OSSC linex5


Retrotink 2x
Yes, it's in focus!


XRGB-1


Is anybody seeing this in their setups?