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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:22 pm 



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 257
Dochartaigh wrote:
USA, Amazon, Prime, 10' or 15' same price $6.39. Don't think they use coax but give me a beautiful clear picture on my PVM's (I use them as extension cables, and for my Raspberry Pi 3 with Pi2SCART RGB board).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY ... UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for this! So weird that the 6ft cable is about twice the price of the 10ft and 15ft variants.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:29 pm 



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nmalinoski wrote:
Thanks for this! So weird that the 6ft cable is about twice the price of the 10ft and 15ft variants.


Probably because everybody wants the short ones which is where they make their money, so the longer ones are cheaper (which they fluxuate - those were like $15.99 at one point as well).


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:30 pm 


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Those ones aren't fully shielded, but for the price you can't beat it.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:14 pm 


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Sorry everyone, I my haste to get an answer, I made a forum faux pas and didn't notice this thread. I deleted my thread and here's my question:

I'm trying to calibrate my JVC AV-32D502 in the service menu. This is my first time doing something like this. When I read the service menu for my set I think it is giving me the exact instructions to calibrate it properly to NTSC standards. Is that right? Again, this is my first time looking at a service manual. Anyway, there is some wording inside that is not familiar to me such as FOCUS VR [In HVT], H VR [In HVT], and SCREEN VR [In HVT]. What does "In HVT" mean? Will I have to open the CRT up? Also there is another section where it says to "receive a black-and-white signal" and adjust the screen until it becomes white. Is there some specific black and white signal or just any kind of black and white signal? It then goes on to say " Adjust the screen until it becomes white". Make the whole screen white? How is that calibrating my screen? I'm really confused.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:37 pm 



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ChuChu Flamingo wrote:
Those ones aren't fully shielded, but for the price you can't beat it.


What denotes fully shielded though? And which one/type is enough for these analog signals....and at what length is each type good enough that 99% of people wouldn't notice any interference or picture degradation? Isn't there like 6+ different ways of shielding cables? (probably more, just looked up a quick article on it since I barely know this stuff ;) --- curious as a lot of this is overkill for our needs and our short cable runs.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:23 am 


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geiger9 wrote:
Sorry everyone, I my haste to get an answer, I made a forum faux pas and didn't notice this thread. I deleted my thread and here's my question:

I'm trying to calibrate my JVC AV-32D502 in the service menu. This is my first time doing something like this. When I read the service menu for my set I think it is giving me the exact instructions to calibrate it properly to NTSC standards. Is that right? Again, this is my first time looking at a service manual. Anyway, there is some wording inside that is not familiar to me such as FOCUS VR [In HVT], H VR [In HVT], and SCREEN VR [In HVT]. What does "In HVT" mean? Will I have to open the CRT up? Also there is another section where it says to "receive a black-and-white signal" and adjust the screen until it becomes white. Is there some specific black and white signal or just any kind of black and white signal? It then goes on to say " Adjust the screen until it becomes white". Make the whole screen white? How is that calibrating my screen? I'm really confused.

I think that sadly, only a person who own a JVC set of that era and have messed in the service menu, can answer your questions regarding those settings.

For the calibration : maybe you can share the pages in the manual that describe this process? No guarantee but maybe someone will be able to answer you.

Btw how do you like the set? I've been wanting to try a JVC D-series for a while, they seem like terrific consumer sets. Apparently older JVC sets are great, too.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 4:08 am 


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Dochartaigh wrote:
ChuChu Flamingo wrote:
Those ones aren't fully shielded, but for the price you can't beat it.


What denotes fully shielded though? And which one/type is enough for these analog signals....and at what length is each type good enough that 99% of people wouldn't notice any interference or picture degradation? Isn't there like 6+ different ways of shielding cables? (probably more, just looked up a quick article on it since I barely know this stuff ;) --- curious as a lot of this is overkill for our needs and our short cable runs.


Hard to answer that question since there are many different displays (analog vs digital), what scart/switch box they are using (not all are created equal), what console, and what length you need. In general keeping cable lengths short helps significantly. If it were me I would just get a fully shielded cable for the output, the inputs are usually fine with just having RGBS shielded in my experience.

I doubt you would notice in blind tests on video on a decently built cable, but for audio it can make a difference in buzzing on bright screens, especially pure white. Most of it is console specific though from my experience. SNES is a big offender for this and I've read NESRGB can be as well.

In any case I was messing around with four cables to see the amount of hum they had for shits and giggles on pure white screens. These cables are around 5 feet long. Output is a fully shielded SCART cable from a Gscart Lite.

1- Official Nintendo Audio Cables (baseline for hum aka noise floor since it shouldn't have anything interfering with the audio. I could detect just the faintest hum at ear blasting volumes)

2- Some random cable I got for cheap years ago (hum was pretty bad even at normal levels and noticeable on more than just white screens)

3- Retro Console Accessories Regular Scart (hum was there if turned up high on white screens, but not bad.)

4- Retro Console Accessory Fully Shielded (hum was pretty much non-existent, a fraction higher than the official nintendo audio cables. I would consider this pretty close to the noise floor).

tl;dr if you listen with headphones you will probably notice this more. Most of the time I listen through speakers so idgaf.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:55 pm 


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@geiger9: The labels you've read refer to controls that are located inside your tv, but unless you have poor focus or elevated blacks you don't need to mess with them. And you don't need the service manual either, in most cases running the 240p test suite on a console (DC or GC would be the most suited, but it's not relevant at all) and following the short instructions here to set the brightness and contrast will be enough to have a satisfying picture for gaming. If you need to tweak the geometry you'll probably have to access some 'hidden' service mode.

--

Regarding shielded cables, I was just looking for bnc to rca cables and somehow ended up in the magical world of audiophile-grade cabling, and man the going prices never fail to impress me - just a random example, look how nice it is, I could wear it around my neck :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:22 pm 


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Xer Xian wrote:
@geiger9: The labels you've read refer to controls that are located inside your tv, but unless you have poor focus or elevated blacks you don't need to mess with them. And you don't need the service manual either, in most cases running the 240p test suite on a console (DC or GC would be the most suited, but it's not relevant at all) and following the short instructions here to set the brightness and contrast will be enough to have a satisfying picture for gaming. If you need to tweak the geometry you'll probably have to access some 'hidden' service mode.


Actually my set has some problems that go beyond adjusting picture, detail, etc. I did all those calibrations using Avia. There is some bending of the image in the upper left corner and bottom right. When I display a circle test pattern, the same areas seem to have this purple-ish color to them as well. I was afraid that someone would say I'd have to open the TV. Ugh. I'm not comfortable with that at all so I may just have to live with it.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:33 pm 


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FinalBaton wrote:
geiger9 wrote:
Sorry everyone, I my haste to get an answer, I made a forum faux pas and didn't notice this thread. I deleted my thread and here's my question:

I'm trying to calibrate my JVC AV-32D502 in the service menu. This is my first time doing something like this. When I read the service menu for my set I think it is giving me the exact instructions to calibrate it properly to NTSC standards. Is that right? Again, this is my first time looking at a service manual. Anyway, there is some wording inside that is not familiar to me such as FOCUS VR [In HVT], H VR [In HVT], and SCREEN VR [In HVT]. What does "In HVT" mean? Will I have to open the CRT up? Also there is another section where it says to "receive a black-and-white signal" and adjust the screen until it becomes white. Is there some specific black and white signal or just any kind of black and white signal? It then goes on to say " Adjust the screen until it becomes white". Make the whole screen white? How is that calibrating my screen? I'm really confused.

I think that sadly, only a person who own a JVC set of that era and have messed in the service menu, can answer your questions regarding those settings.

For the calibration : maybe you can share the pages in the manual that describe this process? No guarantee but maybe someone will be able to answer you.

Btw how do you like the set? I've been wanting to try a JVC D-series for a while, they seem like terrific consumer sets. Apparently older JVC sets are great, too.


I don't feel I'm qualified to critique it from a technical point of view but I'll make an attempt - the power supply must have something wrong with it because in the pluge pattern test, the vertical bars bend even at a low brightness (or was it picture?) setting. Not sure if this is inherent to the model or just this particular unit. I went and calibrated as best I could using Avia and I'm 95% satisfied with it actually. It was free after all and it even came with the matching stand. On the positive side, you can adjust picture, detail, saturation, etc on a per input basis which is pretty cool too. Another down is that the OSD is bad because it disappears after about 3 seconds of inactivity but you can get around that by going into the service menu. Not only does the control stay there as long as you want, the text doesn't take up 3/4 of the screen like the regular menu. That's minor stuff though.

I'll see about posting a picture from the manual when I'm off work.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:16 pm 


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geiger9 wrote:
Actually my set has some problems that go beyond adjusting picture, detail, etc. I did all those calibrations using Avia. There is some bending of the image in the upper left corner and bottom right.

Quote:
in the pluge pattern test, the vertical bars bend even at a low brightness (or was it picture?) setting.

This sounds like a geometry issue - the brightness/picture setting has no bearing at all on it. Your TV is not too old so it most likely has digital geometry adjustments, you need to find out how to access them. They are probably in some 'hidden' service menu.

Regarding the purple-ish color, does it affect the white lines/circles of the test pattern or the black on the background? In the first case it might be a convergence issue (which I've read can be tricky to adjust), in the latter, probably a cap replacement would be in order? Please be aware that I'm not an expert in any way. I'll just paste a few generic CRT maintenance/repair links down below, maybe they can be useful:
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Televisio ... and_Repair
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm
https://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_monfaq.html
http://www.overclockers.com.au/wiki/TV_ ... _Diagnosis
http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/categor ... s-screens/


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 12:23 pm 


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If there's color distortion I would investigate degaussing before I started fiddling with the guns.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 1:59 am 


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I'm considering getting a vga splitter. I'm worried about lag. What do I need to know?
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:22 am 



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Did the original GBA come with a charger? I've seen a few unboxings on youtube and I can't see any charger in the box.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:24 am 



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If I buy a GBA player for the Gamecube in Japan, is the disc going to be region locked and does that stop you playing UK GBA games? I'm assuming the disc is region locked to Japan and you can play any GBA games.. Right?
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:25 am 



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neorichieb1971 wrote:
Did the original GBA come with a charger? I've seen a few unboxings on youtube and I can't see any charger in the box.


The original GBA used AA batteries. It wasn't until the SP that a built-in battery (and charger) was included.

neorichieb1971 wrote:
If I buy a GBA player for the Gamecube in Japan, is the disc going to be region locked and does that stop you playing UK GBA games? I'm assuming the disc is region locked to Japan and you can play any GBA games.. Right?


The GBA Player hardware is identical across regions. The disc is region locked, so it only works on consoles of the same region. The games themselves are not region protected. Also of note, if you use Game Boy Interface, you won't need a disc at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:43 am 



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thanks. I'd rather someone made me a disc :wink:

My GC plays American and Japanese discs. It doesn't play DVD'rs. If someone did the disc for me, what would I need to do to my GC to run it?
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:10 am 



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I'd recommend reading up on the Game Boy Interface. It's a higher quality option than Nintendo's disc. Take a look here for a decent primer: http://retrorgb.com/gameboyinterface.html.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:33 pm 



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I know nothing about this, but which devices should I look into to be able to use PS3/Xbox USB Arcade Fightsticks (by MadCatz and Hori) on older systems like Sega Saturn and Dreamcast?

Don't know if I have to install a new circuit board inside or if there's plug-in adapters or what (would love a universal kit of sorts to use on all different systems). I can deal with installing a new board into the fightsticks if needed, as long as it A.) Still works on my Xbox 360/One, PS3/4, Windows PC, and Raspberry Pi 3 - just as these do now, and B.) I don't have to make my own adapter dongles for the different controller plugs (for Saturn and Dreamcast) as that's beyond my soldering skills.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 5:04 pm 


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Well Brook is the main company that develops fightstick boards and adapters that I know of, they just this week announced a PS3 to Dreamcast converter, but I'm not sure about Saturn.

Personally I ended up with a couple of the Seimitsu Virtua Sticks that I use on the Saturn and Dreamcast (via the Total Control 4).


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 5:22 pm 



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Dochartaigh wrote:
I know nothing about this, but which devices should I look into to be able to use PS3/Xbox USB Arcade Fightsticks (by MadCatz and Hori) on older systems like Sega Saturn and Dreamcast?

Don't know if I have to install a new circuit board inside or if there's plug-in adapters or what (would love a universal kit of sorts to use on all different systems). I can deal with installing a new board into the fightsticks if needed, as long as it A.) Still works on my Xbox 360/One, PS3/4, Windows PC, and Raspberry Pi 3 - just as these do now, and B.) I don't have to make my own adapter dongles for the different controller plugs (for Saturn and Dreamcast) as that's beyond my soldering skills.

I don't think I have a good, ready-to-go solution for you, but I think I can provide some insight or context.

Coming from the music game scene, one of the problems that arose was using beatmania IIDX controllers (both arcade and home styles) on Windows PCs. Being music games, timing (and thus minimal latency) is critical, and almost all of the PlayStation->USB converters introduced way too much lag for any music games to be playable. (There's been talk of some Radio Shack unicorn converters, but I'm not convinced they're all that good.)

The solution the community came up with was custom native-USB control boards that could accommodate all the buttons, as well as the turntables (rotary encoders) and controller lighting, and would not waste any time converting the PlayStation controller language to USB.

So, with that in mind, if I was doing what you were doing, I'd wire up my controller to have a 9-pin or 15-pin DSub (or whatever) connector, and then fit a matching port and harness to a native controller for the system I want to use it on. So, if we're talking Saturn, I'd look for a controller already made for a Saturn, wire up a harness to its PCB, and then plug my arcade stick into that.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 6:03 pm 



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nmalinoski wrote:
So, if we're talking Saturn, I'd look for a controller already made for a Saturn, wire up a harness to its PCB, and then plug my arcade stick into that.


Thank you for the insight but not looking for another huge DIY project. I can barely even re-wire my PC Engine controller to fit the USA's different TurboGrafx-16 mini din plug...(that was my last project...should have just used the extension adapter cable ;)

I know somebody is selling individual cables right now which end in Ethernet cable-type (universal?) plug? Saw another post where you can plug in a USB (assuming fightstick) into a box which plugs right into your Sega Saturn. I know there's some USB controllers (which go inside the fightstick's box and have all the buttons hooked up into them - some with screw terminals so no soldering needed even) the competition players (amongst others) use which are compatible with a whole bunch of systems. The entire Ralph-Net product line (mostly converting to USB, instead of using USB controllers on older consoles I think)...

Was just hoping there was some out-of-the box solution which will do what I want it to do (even if I would need a separate device for each console: a USB to Saturn adapter, and a USB to Dreamcast adapter).



Kez wrote:
Well Brook is the main company that develops fightstick boards and adapters that I know of, they just this week announced a PS3 to Dreamcast converter, but I'm not sure about Saturn.

Personally I ended up with a couple of the Seimitsu Virtua Sticks that I use on the Saturn and Dreamcast (via the Total Control 4).


Thanks. I mentioned that one in my reply above (amongst a bunch of others). I think this falls into probably needing a separate device-per-console (and I have to see if that one will take Xbox 360 fightsticks as well...which I don't think it does, only PS3). This is also why I thought it might be easier if I rewired all 5x fightsticks to one of those universal controllers you talk about - IF it's part of a system where I can use that controller on a whole bunch of systems (with pre-made controller port adapters or something like that).



Currently researching MC Cthulhu, but it seems like they're not taking any new orders and their website is down....seems to do what I want (for PS3 controllers at least)...still researching. PS360+ looks like a winner so far with USB + older system support... (so much friggin info to wade through!). Brooks?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:04 pm 


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So : I'll be needing a component to RGB (preferably SCART) transcoder for a 15kHz RGB-capable Trinitron that has a SCART input. What are the best(also interested in the "best price/performance ratio") ones out there again?

The Garo is sold out

Keene has the RGB2C, am I correct in assuming it performs super well? (videogameperfection.com review says it performs excellent). It needs a Scart-to-YUV adapter on the input but I guess this is pretty easy to find and cheap. It retails for 70 pounds though, which is a pretty hefty price tag considering the money I'm willing to put into this right now (it does have the advantage of being bi-directional though, if I ever want to use RGB-to-YUV).

There's also the elusive Keene Aptus 2, which is a newer, simplified design (not bi-directional) that uses the same chip, so should be same quality, as the RGB2C. Problem is, I haven't seen one listing anywhere...

Anything else I'm missing?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:15 pm 


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Quote:
I'll be needing a component to RGB (preferably SCART) transcoder for a 15kHz RGB-capable Trinitron that has a SCART input

what sources of yours do offer 15khz component but no RGB ?

It's a rarely requested type of conversion.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:19 pm 


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Fudoh wrote:
what sources of yours do offer 15khz component but no RGB ?

It's a rarely requested type of conversion.

PSP and dvd player

I guess for the Wii I can soft-mod it and use a SCART cable. But don't you have a red menu when doing this on a NTSC Wii? And don't you have to go and select PAL60 everytime you boot up your Wii, in order to use that function? (does RGB look any better than component on Wii btw?)

Also the connector on the TV is not SCART, it's a 34 pin one and I'll be making a SCART adapter for it. Should I go with a VGA (HD15) connector instead? would this give me lot more options?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:56 pm 


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Most component to VGA transcoders will work with 15khz sources. You just need to know how to handle the RGBHV sync output format afterwards.

PSP in 480i isn't a good idea.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:09 pm 


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Alright I might try to make a VGA connector then. Currently there's a pinout diagram out there for this TV to make a SCART socket, so this is easier for me to make, but I'll see if I'll be able to make an HD15 one.

(alternatively : are there good quality SCART to HD15 cables for RGBS? I could make a SCART socket for the tv and use said cable to connect the TV to a transcoder. that could work too, and would actually be way easier for me. I see some on Ebay but they have poor reviews. Wonder if it's because of people who haven't figured out how to use them properly, or if they really are shit?)

I have a cheap component-to-vga transcoder here and it performs decent(I doubt that it's flawless though), maybe I'll stick to that, and find a way to connect it's HD15 output to my Trinitron.


Last edited by FinalBaton on Fri Mar 16, 2018 12:33 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2018 12:21 am 


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Dochartaigh wrote:
PS360+ looks like a winner so far with USB + older system support... (so much friggin info to wade through!).


Ah yes, I knew I was forgetting something.. the PS360+ would suit your needs quite well I think (though it doesn't support VMU on DC which can make saving in some games a bit awkward involving controller swapping), but the last time I checked they are pretty difficult to get hold of.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:16 pm 


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So another question regarding NTSC Wii and RGB :

I've read that people play roms/isos via a homebrew program and in the program's menu, are able to change the display mode to PAL60.

What I want to know is : is there such a menu on Virtual Console? Can these games be played in PAL60? I need to know this before ordering a Wii SCART cable


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 2:34 pm 



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So does the JVC X'Eye really have the sharpest RGB output and cleanest audio? I've also heard that CDs load faster on the JVC X'Eye than any other Sega CD model.

https://medium.com/rgb-inside/comparing ... 3d3703270b

Also, I've noticed that all JVC X'Eyes have a BIOS firmware of Ver 2.00 for the CD side, while some Sega CD Model 2 can have a BIOS firmware of Ver 2.21. What's the difference with the extra .21?


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