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The UVC ? It's supposed to light up like a christmas tree - seriously.

Thanks buddy managed to get it lit up now but getting no picture at all
this is my adaptor, have I done some thing wrong? all the dip switches are turned on.















any views very welcome

You're almost there. This should be helpful:

Dip switch settings:

1 – Splash Screen Display

· *On = When the uVC is synchronizing, the splash screen is displayed
· Off = When the uVC is synchronizing, a black screen is displayed

2 – Output Delay Scan Lines (if tearing appears on the bottom of the screen, increase the delay lines, if the top of the screen is wrapped around to the bottom, decrease the delay lines)

· *On = 8
· Off = 16

3 – Output Display

· *On = Low Res (CGA) 15.75KHz
· Off = Med Res (EGA) 24.5KHz

5:4 – Input Resolution

· *On/On = Auto Detect
· On/Off=VGA (640x480)
· Off/On=SVGA (800x600)
· Off/Off=XGA (1024x768)

6 – Horizontal/Composite Sync Polarity

· *On = Positive
· Off = Negative

7 – Vertical Sync Polarity

· Separate Sync
*On = Positive
Off = Negative

· Composite Sync
*On = Always Low
Off = Always Hi

8 – Sync Output Signal
· On = Composite
· *Off = HV Sync Separate

*denotes default settings

Troubleshooting:

The uVC should work right out of the box. If you are having trouble getting an image, refer to the section below that applies.

No image on the monitor at all:
· Verify that the PCB is powered (all 4 LEDs near the fuses illuminated)
· Verify that the PCB is running (at least one of the LEDs near the output Molex (J7) is illuminated)
· Verify that the splash screen is enabled with DIP switch 1
· Verify that the monitor is powered
· Verify that you have the proper video cable attached correctly to the monitor
NOTE: if you have a v00 or v01 PCB (firmware 1.xx), make sure that the Hsync and GND pins are correctly connected; they changed on the v02 PCBs and later (firmware 2.xx and later)

Monitor always displays the default “splash” screen
· Ensure the input has a vertical refresh rate of 60Hz
· Ensure the input is either VGA (640x480), SVGA (800x600) or XGA (1024x768)
· If the splash screen says there is no input detected, check there is actual input data

Image on the monitor keeps cycling:
· Verify that you have the proper output mode with DIP switch 3
· Change the sync signals from composite to separate (or vice versa) with DIP switch 8
· Change the sync signals from positive to negative (or vice versa) with DIP switches 6 and 7

Image on monitor is stable but top of screen is displayed on bottom, or bottom of screen is “torn”
· Change the input to output delay with DIP switch 2

Image is good, but intermittently goes back to the “splash” screen
· Some consoles have been found to have unstable synchronization; ensure you have v2.1 of the firmware or later (version is shown on splash screen)

· If you're using a computer as your source, some versions of Windows (Vista, maybe others) are tricky to get into a compatible video mode

· Using a video card with a DVI output using a DVI->VGA adapter might not always work

Important notes

The pinouts for the video output (J7) were different in prototype PCBs (version 00). In all subsequent PCBs produced, the output video matches the reverse of the pinouts on most monitors (R,G,B,Gnd,Vsync,C/Hsync). The version of the PCB is given on the PCB serial number starting 990uVCxxxxxxxxx; the last two digits after the final dash are the PCB version. If you have a uVC with PCB version 00, please note that you must swap the C/H Sync and Video Ground pins on the cable to your arcade monitor.

Thank you so much for your reply it is encouraging to know I'm almost there but identifying the issue appears to be a problem. I have changed the dip switches to default as per instructions this did not effect anything.

From looking at unit it appears that I have red led's lit up all over the unit so it appears to be getting some power but maybe not enough power??
I will try to examine them closer next time I power it up to help identify which are on and which are not on.

Also from the serial number on the back of my unit (001425), if I'm understanding this correctly I have a prototype board? and need to change something but unsure exactly what it is the quote below says:

" If you have a uVC with PCB version 00, please note that you must swap the C/H Sync and Video Ground pins on the cable to your arcade monitor "

What cables does this mean? The ones on the UVC? And also what do they mean by swap? Sorry if this sounds dumb I'm just not understanding it.

** UPDATE **

The following lights are on:

D11
D8
D10
D4
D6
D2
D7

The rest are all off not sure if this means anything or not regarding getting enough power to unit??

I think it's referring to the "PCB-03" silk screened on your PCB. I have the same revision (I guess) and used this pinout:

H | V | GND | B | G | R |

I soldered both H & V to JAMMA VIDEO SYNC, GND to JAMMA VIDEO GND, and B, G, R to the B, G and R. Also, set your dip switches to:

1-ON
2-OFF
3-ON (for 15kHz monitor)
4-ON
5-ON (^ and this together sets input to AUTO DETECT)
6-ON (this setting is for POSITIVE H-sync, try with it OFF if it doesn't work)
7-ON (this setting is for POSTIVIE V-sync, try with it OFF it it doesn't work)
8-ON (this setting turns COMPOSITE SYNC on and has better compability in my experience, try with it off if it still doesn't work)

Judging from your pictures, you have the red wire for H sync, orange wires for V sync and GND and the black wires for the R, G, B lines. Check your wiring so that you've done this part correctly. If the UVC doesn't get the needed power, it'll stay dark, not lit up like Christmas.

Hi guys managed to now get this screen up but it just says syncronising and never gets past this screen. Do I need to alter the xbox settings at all?



tried a few different dip switch set ups but still remains on start up menu, what is the average boot up time?

I would start by setting the Xox resolution to VGA (640x480). XGA by might causing all kinds of trouble...

Yeah, as the boot screen indicates that your Input resolution DIP setting is for 1024x768 only, you might wanna set that to AUTO or 480p instead too.

Can this device be used to protect a 15khz arcade monitor from BOOT screens from a PC which are usually 31khz??, This is all i want the device for no other down sampling of the resolution just to filter out 31khz signals going to the 15khz Arcade monitor

no

Excellent I'm getting there slowly but surely. So if I go into Xbox settings and change resolution to 640x 480 will it look ok on the monitor for games like mortal Kombat 9 and Streetfighter 4? Ideally don't want to loose to much image quality.

And the dip settings if iv understood correctly should be:

DIP 5 - ON
DIP 4 - OFF = VGA (640x480)

the result will be 240p anyway, you're not losing more one way than the other. Games like MK9 and SF4 are not meant to be played in 240p. In my eyes it won't look good. If you have to use a 15khz screen, I would prefer 480i any time and day.

My monitor can support 15/25 so for best settings what would you recommend please?

For real hi-res games like SF4, definitely (!) go with 24khz output instead. 15khz is nice for games which have originally been low-res and are now running in 31khz (classic collection, some Cave shooters).

For hi-res titles on a dual-sync chassis it's 384p (24k) > 480i (15k) > 240p (15k) .

Thanks mate sorry didnt understand that could you break it down into

1) Xbox settings

2) UVC dip switch settings

Many thanks

XBox to 640x480

UVC: Switch 3 to OFF, Switch 4/5 to ON/ON.

Thanks mate are the other switches left on?

Switch 8 - can't tell you. depends on your monitor. Don't some dual-sync chassis require composite sync for 15khz, but seperate sync for 24khz ?

Switch 2 is the one to try if you got sync issues.

Just got my UVC along with a wiring loom from francob.....i'm confused about what I have to do to get this thing to work; namely with the dip switches. 6, 7, and 8 confuse me. What should i do if i plan to run my xbox 360 into my Nanao ms8 chassis in 24k? Any idea what settings I would need or do I have to just play around until it works?

If you're gonna run it in 15kHz (to get to know it a bit) then try these settings:

DIP1 – Splash Screen Display
On = When the uVC is synchronizing, the splash screen is displayed

DIP2 – Output Delay Scan Lines
Off = 16

DIP3 – Output Display
On = Low Res (CGA) 15.75KHz (Off = Med Res (EGA) 24.5KHz)

DIPS 4/5 – Input Resolution
On/On = Auto Detect

DIP6 – Horizontal/Composite Sync Polarity
Off = Negative

DIP7 – Vertical Sync Polarity
On = Positive
Off = Negative

Composite Sync
Off = Always Hi

DIP8 – Sync Output Signal
On = Composite

*denotes default settings

As DIP8 is ON, you shouldn't need to worry about DIPs 6 or 7.

With the above DIP settings, you should see this (right image) when you turn your cabinet on:



To use your monitor in 24kHz, my guess is you'll need to change a jumper cable on your MS8 chassis (I've never operated anything else than MS9) and change DIP3 to "OFF" on the UVC.

Good luck!

Thanks! Can you explain switch 2? Does that add lag to the device or am I reading into it wrong?

just alters the sync width. If you get a bended screen on top, this can fix it.

Switched my chassis to 24k and everything worked first time!
Thanks everybody!


Behold: 24k on my Egret 29

Sexy!

I may be late to the party, but are these still available for sale?

no, and even used extremely hard to find these days...

Yeah, I wonder who bought the remainder of the small stock that eBay guy had. I think it was 20+ pieces at least.

did Ultracade give a reason why this is no longer sold? Is it due to the legal problems they had?

It's been discontinued for years. And it was a rather complex FPGA design. With standard VGA to 15khz converters like the GBS 8100 (which convert to 480i RGB instead of 240p) available for less than $50, the UVC certainly became a hard sale at it's original price.

Not 20+ pieces myself but I got to admit I hoarded a couple when they were on special...one for each cabinet I have plus one or two spare just in case. I retired my emotias when I got these.