mrsmiley381 wrote:Damn, rolins, that's a sick design! Might if I plagiarize it a bit? I've been trying to come up with a solid modular design of some sort and what you've done is pretty damn smart. Here's the data I've collected so far, organized by general relevance:
General:
30 AWG wire of eight or so colors used for all wiring. Shouldn't cause any problems.
Yeah, go ahead. I copied most of my ideas from other SG builders too.
30ga is okay, but use thicker wire like 20ga or 18ga for the Power & GND. I've noticed a huge difference when powering my boards with thicker wire. Sandwich boards like Ikari Warriors runs smooth with my PSU @ 4.9V with the 18ga. When I had 20ga for power + gnd, I had to crank the PSU to 5.2V just to get Ikari Warriors to run stable.
Power-Related Parts:
Arcade PSU mounted to top of enclosure.
10A fuse on +5v rail.
2A fuse on +12v rail.
One DPST power switch.
One power cable connector.
You sure you want the PSU mounted on the enclosure like mine? I think if you're going to sell superguns, customers would expect the PSU internal. Far more professional looking I think.
Audio-Related Parts:
One 1K Ohm resistor.
One 10K Ohm resister.
One white phono jack.
Just so you know this type of attenuation circuit with 1k and 10k resistors doesn't work with some Cave pcbs. The one I'm using is a variable attenuator which you can read more about
here. Works with Cave pcbs and works well with every game I tested, but I much prefer to use my internal speaker.
Video-Related Parts:
Red 220 Ohm POT.
Green 220 Ohm POT.
Blue 220 Ohm POT.
Encoder (Scratch-built, JROK, whatever I can get my hands on).
I suggest using 1k ohm pots on the RGB.
Anti-electrocution Parts:
One enclosure; acrylic or plastic, custom-cut via fabrication lab.
Braided cable.
Heat shrink.
Various nuts, screws, and other nonsense.
Don't forget those rubber grommets.
I'm personally at a bit of an impasse on how to handle video encoding. If I could find the proper schematics I would simply build one, probably with a bit of aid from the fabrication lab to cut down on wiring time, since I've been informed it can do some custom board work. In my ghetto-style cab I have the RGB-to-VGA adapter, which works well enough. Personally, I would want the YPbBr, S-video, and composite outputs and no on-Supergun speaker, but since I might end up building Superguns for others I might as well find a way to plan for it. Would there be any problem in using RGB POTs on the front of the Supergun and then running it through a JROK which already has RGB POTs? I wouldn't think so, but I've never tried.
There's no problem having separate pots with an encoder that has them already. Just connect the RGB inputs from the jamma harness to the external Pots, and then send its output to the encoder.
There are some tutorial online for DIY RGB to NTSC encoders using the AD725. Compatibility and quality is meh. I'd just stick to encoders that give better quality like jrok or neobitz w/ sync cleaners. Pricey but you get what you paid for.
Thanks, I'll check it out today!
