The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

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SNK-NEO-GEO
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by SNK-NEO-GEO »

Pasky wrote:That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).
Is this something that happens right away or overtime? Does this happens only on RGB out put? Could you elaborate how this notice gets created.. The thing is that changing the power supply is not an easy thing on the MK, the power supply needs to be taken apart and there are 3 soldering points..
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Triple Lei
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Triple Lei »

Pasky wrote:That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).
Did you link to a good power supply or a bad one? I can't tell from your post.

Anyway, same story for me: MK30 ADCAP (and OSSC) owner; noise with RGB, but perfect with component.
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Pasky
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Pasky »

Triple Lei wrote:
Pasky wrote:That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).
Did you link to a good power supply or a bad one? I can't tell from your post.

Anyway, same story for me: MK30 ADCAP (and OSSC) owner; noise with RGB, but perfect with component.
Those are the shitty Suzo Happ's used in the MK30's, if you want a good power supply find one with a low ripple, you can also filter it out on the 5V line (since the video on the arcade pcb and your encoders are using the 5V) using an LC filter with an inductor with a value of 10-20uH. The other option is to use a linear regulator after the switching regulator. But if you can get a quality supply none of this would be neccessary.
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Xer Xian
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Xer Xian »

Just a heads-up, there's an auction of a 2P supergun on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWIN-RUDDER-/31 ... SwA3dYmVEK

It's not the usual BIN listing and it doesn't have a comprehensive title so it might be a good chance. It must be said though that the seller surely has its quirkness, so there's that..
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SNK-NEO-GEO
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by SNK-NEO-GEO »

@CouryC, Tripelef etc -- On my MK, I can confirm the problem was the power supply as Pasky and some the members point it out... took out the old power supply but there is no way to dial up the power meeting without opening the unit since the meter cable is solder to the old power supply and I do not know how to solder those cable into the new power supply. I got it to 5 volts and that is where it will stay. The MWP606 fit in the case but there is no where to secure it to the metal base of the MK so I'' have to remember to be careful.. Hope that this fixes your issues as well.

I am using this power supply which was recommended by some of the members on the HAS tread - MWP606
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360127247409

I am using this cable with the (shield upgrade) recommended by RGB with a Scart switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-NES-Fa ... Swl8NVdJn9
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Triple Lei
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Triple Lei »

Instead of that impossible-to-find LC filter or a new power supply, I'm gonna try my luck with a possible fix detailed earlier in this thread:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 13#p676113

One thing that I think not many people mention is that you have to tie logic ground
to earth ground, otherwise you get interference (diagonal scrolling lines or jailbars) in RGB.
Basically, tie GND from the JAMMA harness to the GND pin on the 3-prong AC line connector for the PSU.



http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 73#p676373

There's three groups of grounds coming from the JAMMA harness (PWR gnd, Video gnd, Controller gnd).
Route them separately but tie them all together at the point of termination,
hook them to the second and third GND screw terminals on the PSU,
and then link that to the earth GND (third pin from the bottom in the photo) using some fat gauge wire.

Before I linked the logic GND and earth GND, I had some really bad scrolling diagonal line video interference,
but after putting the wire in-between the picture became crystal clear.
Focus Attack sells wire by the foot but it's taking a while to arrive...
nio
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by nio »

Any progress? I also have the MK30 ADCAP and its not really working on the Sony BVM.

So how should I fix this 800 dollar supergun?

How can I get a lc filter?

Is ther something like a combined 12/5v lc filter? or is the filter only required for the 5v going to the jrok?
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

I'm currently deployed so I can't do much in the way of assisting with videos/tutorials for installing the MWP-606, nor am I endorsing installing it on your own and keeping the warranty in tact of the ADCAP BUT as SNK-NEO-GEO points out he was successful in installing the PSU and it fitting. I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY encourage that if you do this mod to your SuperGun you install it using some sticky PCB feet and DOUBLE/TRIPLE check that none of the solder points are close to the metal used in the case. You do not want arcs and sparks causing a fire.

You can remove the on-board Pot on the MWP using a solder wick and iron and then implant the ADCAPs pot to the PSU in its pace and regain +5V control from the outside. Since I haven't gotten my hands on one of the MWP 606s I don't know the value of the pot, but it should be close enough.

This fall when I return I am going to do some testing between the PSUs that I have used in the past and the MWPs and see the differences and power line noise. If they are indeed better and have lower noise I will update the ADCAP and provide some details on a DIY upgrade to existing units. If able, I will make some "bolt in" kits available with everything pre soldered and feet. These are never static devices and I have tried to implement upgrades and changes to them to keep improving them always. This is an interesting case that I never personally noticed since I do my testing with an Arcade Monitor (no noise noted), my Framemeister (I have seen other devices of mine display noise using this device and it do some crazy things with my stream setup), and my Trinitron Wega (no noise, video processed through the JROK).
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by nio »

Hmm, seems my problem is way bigger. just tried a different psu which causes a lot od interference.

but without extron and ddsp on the gun is unplayable for me:

http://youtu.be/W9eJ3YKhDP4

i turn off the ddsp at about 0:10-0:11 and back on from 0:18-19
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

nio wrote:Hmm, seems my problem is way bigger. just tried a different psu which causes a lot od interference.

but without extron and ddsp on the gun is unplayable for me:

http://youtu.be/W9eJ3YKhDP4

i turn off the ddsp at about 0:10-0:11 and back on from 0:18-19
The JROK is NTSC. Are you trying it on a PAL TV?
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RGB
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by RGB »

Pretty​ sure he's using the R'G'B signal, so the color subcarrier frequency doesn't matter.
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

I caught that after I re-watched the video. I'm at sea right now with very slow internet so it took about 35 minutes to get through it at full speed.
LaTraille
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by LaTraille »

What would be the best supergun to play 4P TMNT and 3P Aliens vs Predator? Something for the non tech savvy... thanks!
PC Engine Fan X!
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by PC Engine Fan X! »

LaTraille wrote:What would be the best supergun to play 4P TMNT and 3P Aliens vs Predator? Something for the non tech savvy... thanks!
Hi LaTraille,

It'd be this particular supergun setup: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=52895

Pick both a CPS2 three & four player harness + a Konami three & four player harness along with a HAS ver. 3 supergun and you're good to go. Most superguns out there in the wilds are mainly built for two players at best (without the optional ability to upgrade to have a third or fourth player capability from the get-go).

Just post a Wanted to Buy thread for a HAS version 3 supergun and see what comes your way.

Good luck on your search for one.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
daveb
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by daveb »

Hi
I used to play some pcb games with a supergun and a old CRT and SCART cable without any issues, but I have a pcb (it's a jamma bootleg Exerizer game) that I don't get image sync. Supergun works ok and the same pcb get image ok if connected to a LCD TV.
While I can't adjust image frecuency with the supergun, I'm novice with technical aspects (and new here, hello) so I don't know if it can be solved. Any idea would be appreciated.
Image
daveb
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by daveb »

Edited: sorry double post.
Last edited by daveb on Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
mars06
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by mars06 »

I am travelling at present and want a portable supergun to play a Pandoras Box with on the go. I also want a portable screen (say 7 inch). On a PC one can obtain a LCD controller card to turn a laptop screen into a standard VGA display. Can this be done with the Retroelektronik supergun, preferably with headphones and the scanline generator. Someone who knows how could maybe consolised a supergun into something like a notebook or a DS. But, I have no idea how to, so I need a small monitor and small supergun board I can carry in a suitcase without taking much room.

Also when I get home: how much is it exactly nowadays to set up a PC just for Taito Type X 2, 3 or 4 games (about 20 of them are of interests, shmups and fighters). Has anyone solved the monitor problem yet? Will turning a regular monitor on its side damage the monitor at all? Will an older Alienware consolised PC do it (which model?). Would the Type X natively accept USB sticks or Saturn pads, or would it need proper arcade sticks wired up?
hulk
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by hulk »

is there a complete noob guide into building a supergun?
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Type2371
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Type2371 »

Hi all, looking to get a Supergun. Is RGB still making his? Thanks!
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GGA_HAN
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by GGA_HAN »

Hey supergun people - just had a few questions and thought this would be the most appropriate thread...

I want to build my own supergun in the same style as the Japanese ones that integrate the controls into the box. I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro VLX joystick that might have enough room to fit everything inside:

Image

The cable compartment door opens and I'd be able to run video and Jamma cables out from there. I'm most worried about how heat would escape, unless the power supply is external. Any thoughts, suggestions, ect?

Appreciate any input!
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GGA_HAN
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by GGA_HAN »

Decided to get a HAS v3.1 (they look sweet!) and probably going to be selling my Jasens' ADCAP SG.

Also, slightly SG related - how do people play games with the "spinner" type controls (games like Ikari Warriors, Midnight Resistance, ect.) on a supergun?

Any links or info is appreciated!
Last edited by GGA_HAN on Fri Oct 27, 2017 2:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Triple Lei
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Triple Lei »

GGA_HAN wrote:Decided to get a HAS v3.1 (they look sweet!) and probably going to be selling my Jasens' ADCAP SG.

Also, slightly SG related - how do people play games with the "spinner" stype controls (games like Ikari Warriors, Midnight Resistance, ect.) on a supergun?

Any links or info is appreciated!
Same boat as you, but I probably won't be selling my ADCAP unless it's someone very local. I'm getting a HAS for its minimalist design and for the 3P and 4P modules, even though I don't have three friends... :| And heck, if it's recommended by Jamma Nation X then that just sealed the deal.

As for the ADCAP's video quality... according to this post at SRK, if you can grab the video signals from the board before it reaches the supergun, you can get better video quality. So when I learned that was indeed a thing, I went on eBay and got a PCB Advance JAMMA To Scart RGB arcade adapter Retroelectronik + SCART cable from seller "retroinnovation." Even though my power supply is still the original "dirty" one, the video quality improved tremendously. Colors are more vibrant and noise is virtually gone. It's like 96% cleared up, but if I were to describe it in Breaking Bad terms, we're talking Gale's 96% to Heisenberg's (HAS's) 99%. It's kind of a big deal!
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by PC Engine Fan X! »

GGA_HAN wrote:Decided to get a HAS v3.1 (they look sweet!) and probably going to be selling my Jasens' ADCAP SG.

Also, slightly SG related - how do people play games with the "spinner" type controls (games like Ikari Warriors, Midnight Resistance, ect.) on a supergun?

Any links or info is appreciated!
For GGA_HAN,

For those SNK & Data East based arcade jamma pcbs that used those cool old-school rotary-based arcade joysticks -- they are known as the SNK LS-30 rotary sticks. The LS-30 rotary sticks don't connect to the supergun itself but rather you'd connect it directly to the said arcade pcb itself via a dedicated LS-30 joystick "13 wiring harness loom" to the respective 1P and 2P joystick pinouts. A special tool is used to mount and remove the upper joystick portion (the upper rotary joystick base itself came in two different varieties -- circular and octagonal variants for use in the arcades back in the mid-to-late 1980s -- DE was known to have circular rotary joystick bases made for some of their rotary joystick based pcbs) if the joystick base is already mounted underneath an arcade control panel layout on an upright or SD (Sit Down) arcade cabinet setup. Of course, it'd be up to the arcade owner/operator to install his or her choice of either the round or octagonal variant rotary joystick bases on a as-needed basis (due to being worn out in the harsh arcade environs day in & day out).

So you'd have the following SNK & Data East arcade pcbs that took advantage of the LS-30 rotary stick setup:

Ikari Warriors
Victory Road (Ikari Warriors sequel)
Guerrilla War
Gondomania (circa 1987)
Midnight Resistance
Heavy Barrel (circa 1987)
SAR -- Search And Rescue (circa 1989)
Time Soldiers

Here's a pair of hard-to-find SNK LS-30 rotary joysticks (with the respective wiring harnesses already installed) for sale on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-VTG-SNK-ROTA ... SwywRZ8XPI

Hope this helps you out in your arcade pcb endeavors, GGA-HAN.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
PogOrion
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by PogOrion »

I have 2 of their Scart to BNC breakout cables, no problem with them. If I was to buy one of their RGB cables though I'd be tempted to get the pack-a-punch version.
nio
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by nio »

And news on how to fix RGB on the ADCAP?
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by GGA_HAN »

nio wrote:And news on how to fix RGB on the ADCAP?
I'd shoot Jasen an email or PM on twitter, he's been very responsive to me there.
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

I recently changed out PSUs in the ADCAP design with a Meanwell RQ-125. Its showing a better picture, but it doesn't "bolt" into place on the case as its mounting points are all different. I am hesitant to say for sure its the "great final fix" for the older cases as I am not confident I could keep a retrofitted one into place during shipping. I did a Twitch stream showing how I prepped the PSU here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4pZcoRN6ps&t; I suspect that the handy among us can do this swap in about 20 minutes. Here's the part link on mouser: https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/me ... rIhDTudb5j

Now, a few notes since I am back and have been able to do a little troubleshooting with my ADCAP and my PVM.

1. I never noticed any interference on the PVM like some of you have nor on my Arcade Monitor in a box when testing my personal ADCAP (which is built the exact same way as everyone I have built). I only ever really saw some dancing ants on the XRGB-Mini and a large flat screen. As to why its varied amongst everyone, I am unsure but its likely a wide quality control situation with the PSUs. The new PSU didn't really have a huge effect on my PVM that I could tell but on the XRGB Mini it was a noticeable change that improved as the PSU and board warmed up. I recently picked up an OSSC and will check in on that once a SCART to 8 pin cable from RETRORGBCABLES.CO.UK arrives.

2. I suspect that there are a couple points of possible interference that could be had... first the long run to the pots on the front of the ADCAP. Its possible its picking noise up there. The pots are high quality, but the shear run length and loop back could be part of it. The PSU for sure, and the cables in use to hook everything up. I have a couple cables I have used that flat out don't work and some that are great.

3. The Suzo Happ PSUs aren't the same quality as they were 5 years ago when I started making SuperGuns. First round of ADCAPs didn't have this issue. It seems that the last round of PSUs I received were the in the batch where the decline started. I haven't been using them for as long as some folks have, but I suspect the quality is going down hill by means of them finding cheaper knock off parts to assemble the PSUs to maximize profits.

4. On the latest builds I just finished, I actually did some tests where I connected the outer-ring of the 8 pin mini din to the GND on the ADCAP "brain". I noticed a change there as well; connecting the shield to the ground line seemed to offer an additional small reduction in noise on the black "no picture" of the upscaled image.

So... overall, my recommendations to improve the experience:

1. Run a ground wire from the shield to the GND on the ADCAP.

2. Upgrade to the RQ-125 PSU

3. Use high quality shielded cables, if someone sends me a note on twitter or something I will reply here with my findings on the RETRORGBCABLES pick up.

If you want me to do this, I will do it free of labor charge pending you pay shipping costs and the cost of the PSU. There is a risk in the shipment of the PSU moving around during shipping. Ill do my best to keep it in place. using the existing hardware, but there may be some "sticky feet" I have to use to hold it in place. I understand this isn't an inexpensive venture, but its an option now that I am home and stateside for a little bit. I'll offer to do this through the end of January, after that I am in full pack up and get stuff into storage/on a ship to Japan mode for the transition for my change of duty station to Japan (only 6 more Navy years and I can retire and settle down for a change).

What I am doing with the SuperGun line up:

The last 5 I opened up in December were probably my last. If I do more, I am going to revise a number of things so that I can build them faster and hopefully mitigate some of the noise. To do this I intend on doing the following:

1. Remove the PSU from the internal case and move it to be an external brick. This will allow them to be far away and be far easier to replace should they go bad.

2. Remove the JROK from the build completely. More and more people are turning to the OSSC to use their classic and retro stuff on HDTVs, so why waste $80 (no, I get ZERO discounts on the encoders. JROK won't reply to emails so I can't them wholesale) on something that really isn't necessary.

3. Redesign the internals to integrate the new audio attenuation circuit in use, the main ADCAP board, controller ports, and such into a single giant PCB. Doing some creative routing of signals, power, and ground planes will remove potential locations of interference pick up most likely.

As for contacting me, CGA_HAN is right... twitter/facebook or even my shop's help desk are great ways to get in touch with me. I will do my best to help anyone and everyone as soon as I can.
nio
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by nio »

I just ordered a RQ-125 PSU on amazon, but it ll be shipped from china ... so

That new audio board, can i retro fit that in my supergun from yours? i really want to upgrade that! thanks!!!
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

The new audio board can't be retro fit; not easily nor cleanly at least. It requires a different switch on the front for audio (A DPDT switch, bigger to boot that won't fit in the designated cut out), it requires removing surface mounted resistors and installing some 0 ohm pass through jumpers in two of the spots, then requires rewiring the audio from the supergun to the new audio board and then to the sub-jack boards. The audio board, to make it even more fun, costs about $45 to make and would also need to be fit into the case using sticky pcb feet... the joys of using high end non-inductive audio grade resistors and parts.
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Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.

Post by Dragon Warrior Jasen »

Here's a quick article on the RGB output to SCART cable I "modified" for use on the ADCAP: https://jasenscustoms.zendesk.com/hc/en ... 5003708211

It's 4 wires of simple soldering/desoldering if you start with a Retro Game Cables Framemeister EURO Scart adapter (link in the article). I ran it into the PVM using their SCART to BNC cable and looped it to the OSSC using the RGB Output of the PVM (BNC to SCART cable again).
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