I have a 1084ds monitor and recently I bought a Saturn SCART cable from lik-sang. I also bought a male db9 connector-thing from radioshack so I can solder the wires from the SCART cable onto it to get it to plug into the monitor.
Here are the pinouts I found with google:
http://utopia.knoware.nl/users/eprebel/ ... SCART.html
http://pinouts.ru/data/C1084dd_pinout.shtml
The SCART cable I bought has wires going to pins 2,4,6,7,11,15,16,18, and 20. Going from the pinout those are
Audio Right in
Audio return
Audio left in
blue in/out
green in/out
red in/out
RGB states in/out
Sync return
Sync (composite video) in/out
The db9 only uses 9 pins (and even less in analog mode, which i'm assuming the monitor uses) which are
ground
ground [again]
red
green
blue
n/c [in analog]
composite synch [in analog]
n/c [analog]
n/c [analog]
So the question remains of what do I do with the extra wires on the scart end, and what do I solder to the ground pins on the db9? And what kind of cable should I buy to get it to output audio, etc. (double-rca connectors on either end, then solder to one end?)
Obviously I'm very new, heh. Talk to me about it like you would a monkey, the best I can do is solder...any help appreciated.
Need some help with RGB
I think the "returns" are grounds.. but the saturn av output seems to have just 1 common ground, the outer metal peice of the connector, so it shouldn;t matter which ground you use, as long as it's connected from the actual scart connector to the saturn side of the c able.
important wires for RGB:
red, green, blue, sync (composite), and ground.
important wires for audio:
left, right, and ground. For mono you could just merge the left and right wires.
I have a 1804, not a DS though, but on the back of mine it has 1 audio input for mono, it's a female RCA connector (not sure if thats the correct name), so what you'd need is a male one, or a male to male cable, the inner "pin" on a male rca connector is the signal, the outer metal circular peice is the ground. When stripping an RCA cable, there is an inner wire usually with it's own plastic coating, that is the signal, then the other wire not coming from that inner one is the ground.
I'm not sure how you're going about connecting stuff, but what I'd probably have done is gotten a saturn av connector somehow, doesn't have to be scart, just any connector that has all the pins on the saturn side.. then I would cut the cable near that connector, strip the individual wires, and using a saturn a/v pinout ( http://www.gamesx.com/grafx/satpin.jpg ) solder the correct wires to whatever c onnector I'd be using. (probably a db9 extension cable along with a db9 plug for soldering the saturn av connector to)
Problem with doing that is you need to know what wire goes to what pin, so you would have to use a multimeter and check for resistance or something,
or just a simple battery and led / speaker, etc..
So in your case you could choose to cut the scart cable near the scart connector, figure out which wire is what coming from the saturn av end, then solder the wires you need onto the db9 + also a male rca connector..
and all the wires you need are the 7 listed above.
important wires for RGB:
red, green, blue, sync (composite), and ground.
important wires for audio:
left, right, and ground. For mono you could just merge the left and right wires.
I have a 1804, not a DS though, but on the back of mine it has 1 audio input for mono, it's a female RCA connector (not sure if thats the correct name), so what you'd need is a male one, or a male to male cable, the inner "pin" on a male rca connector is the signal, the outer metal circular peice is the ground. When stripping an RCA cable, there is an inner wire usually with it's own plastic coating, that is the signal, then the other wire not coming from that inner one is the ground.
I'm not sure how you're going about connecting stuff, but what I'd probably have done is gotten a saturn av connector somehow, doesn't have to be scart, just any connector that has all the pins on the saturn side.. then I would cut the cable near that connector, strip the individual wires, and using a saturn a/v pinout ( http://www.gamesx.com/grafx/satpin.jpg ) solder the correct wires to whatever c onnector I'd be using. (probably a db9 extension cable along with a db9 plug for soldering the saturn av connector to)
Problem with doing that is you need to know what wire goes to what pin, so you would have to use a multimeter and check for resistance or something,
or just a simple battery and led / speaker, etc..
So in your case you could choose to cut the scart cable near the scart connector, figure out which wire is what coming from the saturn av end, then solder the wires you need onto the db9 + also a male rca connector..
and all the wires you need are the 7 listed above.
Yep, that's what I was planning on.So in your case you could choose to cut the scart cable near the scart connector, figure out which wire is what coming from the saturn av end, then solder the wires you need onto the db9 + also a male rca connector..
so 'returns' are grounds...I see. I just soldered red, green, blue, and composite synch wires to the db9 male and and tried the saturn on the monitor. It actually worked but the colors were very screwed up. I'll solder the grounds to something metal (that's what you're supposed to do with them, isn't it? Can they be on the same piece of metal? Like the outer edge of the db9 connector?)
The outer piece of metal is supposed to be ground, but some TVs/monitors don´t like it that way, so you should take another pin as common ground, to be able to connect or disconnect the outer piece, depending on what works.
One thing you should look out for is the fact that scart cables aren´t symmetrical in a ways that each pin is connected to the same pin number on the other side. Audio is one thing that changes, and another is sync (from 18 to 17). So, if you want to connect something to Sync at pin 18 on one hand, you have to desolder and connect the cable from pin 17 on the other side. It took me ages to find a diagram for this, and I don´t remember the URL, but using a voltmeter checking resistance should guide you just as well.
One thing you should look out for is the fact that scart cables aren´t symmetrical in a ways that each pin is connected to the same pin number on the other side. Audio is one thing that changes, and another is sync (from 18 to 17). So, if you want to connect something to Sync at pin 18 on one hand, you have to desolder and connect the cable from pin 17 on the other side. It took me ages to find a diagram for this, and I don´t remember the URL, but using a voltmeter checking resistance should guide you just as well.
) till now...-
OmegaFlareX
- Posts: 884
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- Location: Virginia, USA
yes, those are pretty hard to find. I´d recommend to build one, here´s a diagram for a model 1 genesis:Where can I get a cable for megadrive/genesis? lik-sang is out and nobody else seems to have them.
http://www.mikeg2.freeserve.co.uk/masterful/scart.gif
here´s a diagram for both models, but the one on the left is wrong, so I wouldn´t trust the other one too much either:
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/genesisav.htm
there´s a thread in this hardware section where someone talks about his Sony RGB monitor, I don´t remember the model name, but that seems to be a nice alternative, although severely more expensive than the 1084. It seems like large RGB monitors are always nearly as or even more expensive than cabs in the US. You know you can mod your consoles in a way to play them on a cab, right?I'd also like to know of any other console-compatible RGB monitors that are bigger than the 1084.
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incognoscente
- Posts: 927
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 11:33 pm
- Location: Georgia, USA
Sony PVM-1910 (19" viewable). Tates nicely, if that's an issue.
As I recall, Matt and undamned both owned PVM-2530s, (25" viewable) but neither could get it to work well in Tate.
For a small Sony monitor, the GVM-1310 (13") can handle 15.7KHz as well as 31KHz signals. It might do 24KHz, but I wouldn't bet on it.
For pinouts of the PVM-1910 computer monitor connector (25-pin d-sub; the monitor is male), try http://www.iq.sony.com/srvs/sosdocs/default.asp
Neon, if you do end up making cables for multiple systems, you may want to have one main cable to the monitor and then adapter cables per console. That can save at least a little on cost and space.
Matt worked this way. Using 15-pin d-sub connectors (available at www.jameco.com or www.allelectronics.com), he made one cable that would start at the monitor and terminate in a male 15-pin d-sub connector. Then system adapters that would plug into a specific system and terminate in a female 15-pin d-sub connector. Only one long cable has to be plugged into a monitor and you can easily switch out systems.
The pinout in the cable he made for me is:
1. R 2. G 3. B
8. Sync (on adapter cables)
On the monitor cable, pins 6, 7, and 8 have solder connecting them. Pin 6 has the sync line running to the monitor. I'll be honest--I don't know enough to know exactly the why, but I don't mess with it.
9. Audio L 10. Audio R
15. Ground
Casing is ground.
That's not to say that you have to do it this way. I'm only presenting the information for if you want it.
As I recall, Matt and undamned both owned PVM-2530s, (25" viewable) but neither could get it to work well in Tate.
For a small Sony monitor, the GVM-1310 (13") can handle 15.7KHz as well as 31KHz signals. It might do 24KHz, but I wouldn't bet on it.
For pinouts of the PVM-1910 computer monitor connector (25-pin d-sub; the monitor is male), try http://www.iq.sony.com/srvs/sosdocs/default.asp
Neon, if you do end up making cables for multiple systems, you may want to have one main cable to the monitor and then adapter cables per console. That can save at least a little on cost and space.
Matt worked this way. Using 15-pin d-sub connectors (available at www.jameco.com or www.allelectronics.com), he made one cable that would start at the monitor and terminate in a male 15-pin d-sub connector. Then system adapters that would plug into a specific system and terminate in a female 15-pin d-sub connector. Only one long cable has to be plugged into a monitor and you can easily switch out systems.
The pinout in the cable he made for me is:
1. R 2. G 3. B
8. Sync (on adapter cables)
On the monitor cable, pins 6, 7, and 8 have solder connecting them. Pin 6 has the sync line running to the monitor. I'll be honest--I don't know enough to know exactly the why, but I don't mess with it.
9. Audio L 10. Audio R
15. Ground
Casing is ground.
That's not to say that you have to do it this way. I'm only presenting the information for if you want it.
I've got a sony 1910 also that I have tated all the time with the 1080 sitting ontop of it for horizontal stuff, they are both really nice monitors, the amiga 1080 has a better picture though (yet its an older monitor), I think it just has more lines of resolution than the 1910, maybe a slightly better dot pitch or whatever.
(the 1910 has something like 350 vertical lines?), recently I opened up the sony 1910 and tweaked a bunch of the pots for color/focus/etc and got it looking nicer for rgb.
The sony 1910 does composite video input way better than the amiga 1080, probably due to it having a better comb filter, or whatever it is that reduces the amount of dot crawl and color bleeding on composite video.
oh and s-video is awesome on the amiga 1080/1084!
you should try it, buy or make a custom s-video to Y/C cable, for connecting to the back of the amiga 1080/1084 on the luminance and chroma (might be different wording for the inputs, basically 2 rca inputs instead of the normal s-video plug.. s-video has 2 signals rather than the 1 signal of composite).
So, if you ever come across a sony pvm 1910 maybe consider getting one as long as it's in good physical condition, I got mine from ebay a couple years ago for 50$ or something ultra cheap, the seller did a horrible job packing it and so some of the plastic casing on the monitor kind of split apart, but everything still works great, they seem to be built pretty well, and have really sturdy handles for moving them around.
There are some other 19" sony monitors with rgb in that have s-video and stuff on them, and probably with better lines of resolution, just look for the PVM infront of the model number.
*edit*
oh and the megadrive/genesis, for a temporary solution if you have extra wires laying around you can just shove them in the proper holes after checking the pinout
I seem to remember the a/v connector on the back being a female one, you might want to check any used game stores too and see if they have any a/v hookups for genesis.
(the 1910 has something like 350 vertical lines?), recently I opened up the sony 1910 and tweaked a bunch of the pots for color/focus/etc and got it looking nicer for rgb.
The sony 1910 does composite video input way better than the amiga 1080, probably due to it having a better comb filter, or whatever it is that reduces the amount of dot crawl and color bleeding on composite video.
oh and s-video is awesome on the amiga 1080/1084!
you should try it, buy or make a custom s-video to Y/C cable, for connecting to the back of the amiga 1080/1084 on the luminance and chroma (might be different wording for the inputs, basically 2 rca inputs instead of the normal s-video plug.. s-video has 2 signals rather than the 1 signal of composite).
So, if you ever come across a sony pvm 1910 maybe consider getting one as long as it's in good physical condition, I got mine from ebay a couple years ago for 50$ or something ultra cheap, the seller did a horrible job packing it and so some of the plastic casing on the monitor kind of split apart, but everything still works great, they seem to be built pretty well, and have really sturdy handles for moving them around.
There are some other 19" sony monitors with rgb in that have s-video and stuff on them, and probably with better lines of resolution, just look for the PVM infront of the model number.
*edit*
oh and the megadrive/genesis, for a temporary solution if you have extra wires laying around you can just shove them in the proper holes after checking the pinout
I seem to remember the a/v connector on the back being a female one, you might want to check any used game stores too and see if they have any a/v hookups for genesis.
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neorichieb1971
- Posts: 7679
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- Location: Bedford, UK
- Contact:
http://www.presmedia.com/presmedia-cgi- ... /955461936
this is the best monitor apparently. 27", has vertical/horizontal stretch and shift buttons on the back/top of the unit so its easy to get the picture to fit snugly. I have heard little about issues with these, but not many people know about them so....
They take BNC connectors, so you need custom cables, but thats easy just email Matt, he can make them in 5 minutes.
I have a PVM2530, they are colorful and vibrant, but you need DB25 connectors (Again ask Matt). You do have problems with the convergence and the geometry due to bad worn out capacitors and such. I paid $200 to get mine in good shape but it did little good.. Its good for fighters since there is no straight lines usually, but play a shooter and straight lines will warp in many places if the monitor has been in a magnetic field for very long periods (as is the case usually). You need seperate speakers for the PVM2530, it has standard speaker terminals on the back and it has a loud amp built in, so loud I rarely go anywhere near the max volume on it. The vert/hori shift can only be done with a tiny screw driver as the pots are indented on a PCB inside the unit. So you have to take it apart. Is very dangerous as well
In all honesty, i'm going the way of the Monivision+XRGB2 combo, its about $1300 for 27", but you can use it for PC and TV and everything. I am taking a risk though, since i've only got Matt's word that the XRGB is worth it, but considering his expertise in the field, thats enough for me.
this is the best monitor apparently. 27", has vertical/horizontal stretch and shift buttons on the back/top of the unit so its easy to get the picture to fit snugly. I have heard little about issues with these, but not many people know about them so....
They take BNC connectors, so you need custom cables, but thats easy just email Matt, he can make them in 5 minutes.
I have a PVM2530, they are colorful and vibrant, but you need DB25 connectors (Again ask Matt). You do have problems with the convergence and the geometry due to bad worn out capacitors and such. I paid $200 to get mine in good shape but it did little good.. Its good for fighters since there is no straight lines usually, but play a shooter and straight lines will warp in many places if the monitor has been in a magnetic field for very long periods (as is the case usually). You need seperate speakers for the PVM2530, it has standard speaker terminals on the back and it has a loud amp built in, so loud I rarely go anywhere near the max volume on it. The vert/hori shift can only be done with a tiny screw driver as the pots are indented on a PCB inside the unit. So you have to take it apart. Is very dangerous as well
In all honesty, i'm going the way of the Monivision+XRGB2 combo, its about $1300 for 27", but you can use it for PC and TV and everything. I am taking a risk though, since i've only got Matt's word that the XRGB is worth it, but considering his expertise in the field, thats enough for me.
This industry has become 2 dimensional as it transcended into a 3D world.
I also recommend the XRGB-2 upscanner. But I think you can do far cheaper than the monivision SVGA monitor...you can usually find a used Gateway Destination monitor between $100 and $300 at 27", 33" or 36". Of course its only worth finding them local.neorichieb1971 wrote: In all honesty, i'm going the way of the Monivision+XRGB2 combo, its about $1300 for 27", but you can use it for PC and TV and everything. I am taking a risk though, since i've only got Matt's word that the XRGB is worth it, but considering his expertise in the field, thats enough for me.
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PC Engine Fan X!
- Posts: 8442
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:32 pm
How do you mod an Amiga 1080 13" to accept Y/C cable?..
Hi there kemical,kemical wrote:oh and s-video is awesome on the amiga 1080/1084!
you should try it, buy or make a custom s-video to Y/C cable, for connecting to the back of the amiga 1080/1084 on the luminance and chroma (might be different wording for the inputs, basically 2 rca inputs instead of the normal s-video plug.. s-video has 2 signals rather than the 1 signal of composite).
Saw your post regarding as to making a custom S-Video to Y/C cable...I've got an original Amiga 1080 13" monitor that does have a "Chroma" input in the back but no "Luminance" (or "Y") input in the back.
1.) Where can I find the "Luminance" input port on an Amiga 1080 monitor?
2.) Could you list step by step instructions on how to make such a "custom S-Video to Y/C cable" setup for Amiga 1080 monitor?
thanks for your time...
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
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PC Engine Fan X!
- Posts: 8442
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:32 pm
Here's a cool but tiny 9" Sony Trinitron RGB monitor...
Besides all the Sony RGB monitors they have produced, Sony did manufacture the CPD-9000 (9" sized monitor) & the CPD-1201 (12" sized monitor) series of RGB monitors which only accept 15.75kHz horizontal sync rate.
I bought a brand new unused Sony CPD-9000 9" RGB monitor (dated September 1991) and the picture output is out-of-this-world! It tates nicely for those cool vertical-orientated shmups.
By hooking up my Supergun with Armed Police Batrider to it, the CPD-9000's visual display shows all the littlest details of Raizing/8ing's shmup masterpiece. There are even user-adjustment controls to individually adjust the R/G/B input signals via two seperate "pot" knobs labelled "BKG" & "Drive". (I don't mess around with them as they have been adjusted at the factory.)
Both Sony's CPD 1201 & CPD-9000 series monitors use a custom 8-pin input connector but can be modified for your own custom RGB monitor inputs.
Or if you want to custom-build a cool mini arcade upright (either horizontal or vertical) cabinet or bartop setup, a Sony CPD-9000 would fit the bill quite nicely.
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
I bought a brand new unused Sony CPD-9000 9" RGB monitor (dated September 1991) and the picture output is out-of-this-world! It tates nicely for those cool vertical-orientated shmups.
By hooking up my Supergun with Armed Police Batrider to it, the CPD-9000's visual display shows all the littlest details of Raizing/8ing's shmup masterpiece. There are even user-adjustment controls to individually adjust the R/G/B input signals via two seperate "pot" knobs labelled "BKG" & "Drive". (I don't mess around with them as they have been adjusted at the factory.)
Both Sony's CPD 1201 & CPD-9000 series monitors use a custom 8-pin input connector but can be modified for your own custom RGB monitor inputs.
Or if you want to custom-build a cool mini arcade upright (either horizontal or vertical) cabinet or bartop setup, a Sony CPD-9000 would fit the bill quite nicely.
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Re: How do you mod an Amiga 1080 13" to accept Y/C cabl
PC Engine Fan X! wrote:
Hi there kemical,
Saw your post regarding as to making a custom S-Video to Y/C cable...I've got an original Amiga 1080 13" monitor that does have a "Chroma" input in the back but no "Luminance" (or "Y") input in the back.
1.) Where can I find the "Luminance" input port on an Amiga 1080 monitor?
2.) Could you list step by step instructions on how to make such a "custom S-Video to Y/C cable" setup for Amiga 1080 monitor?
thanks for your time...
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
If the monitor has red, yellow, and white plugs on the back, yellow is Luminance/Luma red is Chrominance/Chroma. White is audio. That's the way on my Amiga monitor, and by using a hacked PS1 S-video cable, I was able to watch Lilo and Stitch. With Macrovision, though.
Don't hold grudges. GET EVEN.
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OmegaFlareX
- Posts: 884
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:15 pm
- Location: Virginia, USA
Re: How do you mod an Amiga 1080 13" to accept Y/C cabl
I'm sorry, I can't help you, but that just reminded me how awesome Matt was. See, I ordered RGB cables and adapters for all my systems, plus an extensive mod-job (my Duo), and in the process he was gracious enough to give me some freebies. One of which was a s-video adapter that will work on my Commie screens. I've never used it, but I'm going to hang onto it.PC Engine Fan X! wrote:2.) Could you list step by step instructions on how to make such a "custom S-Video to Y/C cable" setup for Amiga 1080 monitor?
BTW, the other freebies were 1) my DC RGB adapter (yay, Gunbird 2!) and 2) a whole crapload of CR2032 batteries. Matt needs to come back.
