OSSC (DIY video digitizer & scandoubler)

[Marmotta]

I'm trying to connect to a CMVS using this circuit, but the OSSC is stating there's no sync detected. I hooked it up briefly without any protection to check the MVS is working, which it is. I've checked continuity all over the board, but can't find any issues. I don't have a scope, but there are some low voltage signals on the RGB and sync lines. Any ideas? I don't have any other RGB input devices I could use to see if it's an OSSC-specific issue.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/R8NJ9UQ4

Thought I'd follow this up in case anyone else is having the same issue. After puzzling over what it could be for a while, I found a major and simple flaw in the OSHPark board - the 5V line is shorted to ground on a castellation on the board. I don't know if this was on the original design or is an error in manufacturing by OSHPark.

[Fudoh]

this is a manufacturing error, BUT I don't see how a missing chip on the PCB's soldering mask would cause a short.

[Marmotta]

this is a manufacturing error, BUT I don't see how a missing chip on the PCB's soldering mask would cause a short.

That area is where I lightly attacked it with a Dremel to fix the short. The 5V solder pad was just about connected to one of the two castellations on the bottom edge, and that area has a ground fill on the other side of the board.

[Jademalo]

Excellent, thank you for the GC values. Does anyone know the correct ones for the original Xbox?

Original Xbox is the same, 858/720 with 10:11 PAR.

Do be aware though, 480i from the original xbox is absolutely goddamn awful

[Lawfer]

Excellent, thank you for the GC values. Does anyone know the correct ones for the original Xbox?

Original Xbox is the same, 858/720 with 10:11 PAR.

Do be aware though, 480i from the original xbox is absolutely goddamn awful

480i Component from the Original Xbox is nothing particulary different from 480i of other consoles.

[Jademalo]

Excellent, thank you for the GC values. Does anyone know the correct ones for the original Xbox?

Original Xbox is the same, 858/720 with 10:11 PAR.

Do be aware though, 480i from the original xbox is absolutely goddamn awful

480i Component from the Original Xbox is nothing particulary different from 480i of other consoles.

480i - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png
480p - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png

Hard disagree there.
Been doing a lot of testing on this over the last month with a number of different Xboxes, the raw 480i output is absolutely horrible.

These two images were captured with the exact same setup (Xbox->Official Component->OSSC->Vision E1s), and you can see that the output is just dreadful. I have tried every possible bit of configuration available, and there is no solution. That's just what the 480i output looks like.

Not to mention for some reason the 480i output is in limited range. That one confuses me even more, but applying limited->full correction is neccesary to get black and white levels right.

[Fudoh]

that's not really a valid comparison, since interlaced input into the OSSC upscaled to 960p results in a signal that's hardly comparable to a properly interlaced 480i signal which is upscaled AFTER deinterlacing.

[Jademalo]

that's not really a valid comparison, since interlaced input into the OSSC upscaled to 960p results in a signal that's hardly comparable to a properly interlaced 480i signal which is upscaled AFTER deinterlacing.

Alright then, have some lovely clean capture shots without any upscaling.

480p - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png
480i Discard - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... _Field.png
480i Yadif2x - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png
480i Yadif1x - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png
480i Yadif2x with correction - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png

PDN with each aligned - https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbp6u3ua881hw ... s.pdn?dl=0


This is original Xbox, with official component cables. The cables are direct into the OSSC, which is configured for both 480p and 480i with 858 sample rate, 720 hres, and backporch tweaked to get it centred. Both 480p and 480i outputs are set to passthrough. This is then captured directly by the Vision E1S.
The only thing changed between the two is the resolution. The chain is the same.

480p is the straight passthrough, nothing tweaked, captured from the Vision window at exactly 720x480.
480i is the passthrough captured from the vision window at exactly 720x480, with the deinterlacing set to discard in that application.
480i Yadif2x is the vision captured in OBS at 720x480, XRGB. It is then deinterlaced with Yadif2x.
480i Yadif1x is the same as above, but using Yadif instead.
480i Yadif2x with correction is the same as the third image, except I've applied a filter in order to correct the brightness and contrast issues.


I have done extensive testing on this, with all manner of advanced tweaking on both the OSSC and other software. I have also hooked the Xbox up directly to the Vision so as to rule out the OSSC as an issue, and I get exactly the same results.
The actual 480i output of the Xbox is garbage. It's for some reason extremely bright, and extremely low quality. The easiest place to see this is to look at the Unleash text, you can clearly see the ringing on every single letter. Also look to the right of the yellow text in the menu list, you can see a blue shadow artifact. I am 100% confident that this is the actual, accurately captured output.
Considering the 480p output is absolutely fine, I'm also positive it's not an issue with the cables. I've also tested this with an RGB SCART cable, and got the exact same results.

[Fudoh]

thank you!

I would go as far as to agree that indeed 480i is certainly no alternative for capture or for any use on a progressive display, but on a 480i-only CRT, the XBOX's output signal looks alright. The anti-blur patch for 480i output might make a difference as well, don't you think?

What personally bothers me much more about the XBOX's output is the internal background scaling, which never allows you to get perfect horizontal pixel seperation despite setting the sampling rate just right. FBX went into some detail on this one a while back.

[Lawfer]

Hard disagree there.

An original xbox version 1.3 plugged with the HD Pack, with high-end RCA to BNC component cables that you can see here: https://tmraudio.com/product/tj-217 (the component cables that Microsoft included together with the HD Pack are apparently of low quality.)

That, plugged on a CRT broadcast monitor and output in 480i is certainly not "absolutely goddamn awful", that is an absolute exaggeration, again it is not that far removed from 480i component that you can get from other consoles, certainly nothing out of the ordinary.

[Jademalo]

thank you!

I would go as far as to agree that indeed 480i is certainly no alternative for capture or for any use on a progressive display, but on a 480i-only CRT, the XBOX's output signal looks alright. The anti-blur patch for 480i output might make a difference as well, don't you think?

What personally bothers me much more about the XBOX's output is the internal background scaling, which never allows you to get perfect horizontal pixel seperation despite setting the sampling rate just right. FBX went into some detail on this one a while back.

Np, always good to have proper examples =p
Ooh, what anti-blur patch? I'm not familiar with that.

Yeah, the Xbox really isn't great lol. It does look fine on a CRT, but my current goal is to try and get as good a capture as I possibly can out of 480i. I've got a friend who speedruns a 480i only Xbox game, and capturing it well is a nightmare. We modded it as a test to force 480p output the other day, and the difference is insane. The Xbox's 480p output is, while not perfect due to the weird internal scaling of some elements, at least a fairly clean output.

Interestingly, the custom dashboard that I've been using to test (since it has pure black and pure white) is really convenient, since the UNLEASH text and the big X don't have any of the Xbox's weird scaling going on. The black outline around the boxes is also perfectly crisp. It makes confirming 858 as the correct sample rate and dialing in a good sampling phase surprisingly easy.
You can see though just looking at the text that there's a lot of scaling still going on with some elements.

This image from earlier shows that really clearly - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ ... nknown.png

Hard disagree there.

An original xbox version 1.3 plugged with the HD Pack, with high-end RCA to BNC component cables that you can see here: https://tmraudio.com/product/tj-217 (the component cables that Microsoft included together with the HD Pack are apparently of low quality.)

That, plugged on a CRT broadcast monitor and output in 480i is certainly not "absolutely goddamn awful", that is an absolute exaggeration, again it is not that far removed from 480i component that you can get from other consoles, certainly nothing out of the ordinary.

Check the images I've just posted in my larger post above to Fudoh. The 480i output is really, really not good, and has a lot of issues other than being interlaced.

I've been able to get extremely good 480i results from consoles like the Gamecube and Wii, and even the interlaced modes of the N64. Generally you can expect a clean output with 480i, the main issue being obviously the interlacing. The base 480i output of the Xbox is not good, and it's nothing to do with the interlacing. Each horizontal scanline itsself is really bad.

[Lawfer]

Check the images I've just posted in my larger post above to Fudoh. The 480i output is really, really not good, and has a lot of issues other than being interlaced.

I've been able to get extremely good 480i results from consoles like the Gamecube and Wii, and even the interlaced modes of the N64. Generally you can expect a clean output with 480i, the main issue being obviously the interlacing. The base 480i output of the Xbox is not good, and it's nothing to do with the interlacing. Each horizontal scanline itsself is really bad.

On my setup Xbox 480i component is pretty good, better than Wii at least.

[Jademalo]

On my setup Xbox 480i component is pretty good, better than Wii at least.

Any examples?
If you've discovered some special sauce to make the Xbox play ball, then I'm definitely interested. Through my testing though, I'm 99% sure I'm getting the accurate output.

In my experience, the Wii's 480i output isn't actually horrible. It's the 480p output where more issues start to come into play, though it's obviously a lot easier to see those objectively with the test suite.

[nmalinoski]

Is 480i output bad all around, or does quality differ depending on board revision? I recall there being some discussion about earlier boards with Conexant encoders having good YPbPr output but bad RGB output, and the 1.6 boards with the Xcalibur encoders having good RGB output but bad YPbPr output.

So which board revisions are people testing with?

[Fudoh]

I always inclined to jump in onto the comments, but I have to admit, I have not seen an Xbox running on an interlaced CRT in almost a decade. I don't remember it to be bad though.

Ooh, what anti-blur patch? I'm not familiar with that.

me neither, it was mentioned here only recently:
viewtopic.php?p=1366729#p1366729

Interestingly, the custom dashboard that I've been using to test (since it has pure black and pure white) is really convenient, since the UNLEASH text and the big X don't have any of the Xbox's weird scaling going on.

you're right. The big UNLEASH letters look crip. I was looking at the menu text before (e.g. LAUNCH DISC) and here it looks like the sampling is off (the H looks clear on the right, but way different on the left).

[Lawfer]

Is 480i output bad all around, or does quality differ depending on board revision? I recall there being some discussion about earlier boards with Conexant encoders having good YPbPr output but bad RGB output, and the 1.6 boards with the Xcalibur encoders having good RGB output but bad YPbPr output.

So which board revisions are people testing with?

revision 1.3, HD Pack, Good Component Cable, 480i/p YPbPr, looks good.

[Jademalo]

Is 480i output bad all around, or does quality differ depending on board revision? I recall there being some discussion about earlier boards with Conexant encoders having good YPbPr output but bad RGB output, and the 1.6 boards with the Xcalibur encoders having good RGB output but bad YPbPr output.

So which board revisions are people testing with?

1.1, but have also had a friend with a 1.6 try. Both with good component cables, good 480p, bad 480i.
I've also tried my 1.1 with RGB SCART and had exactly the same issue, so it's not specific to the YPbPr output. Plus, if it was, 480p would be just as bad.

Ooh, what anti-blur patch? I'm not familiar with that.

me neither, it was mentioned here only recently:
viewtopic.php?p=1366729#p1366729

Awesome, I'll give that a look. Ty!

[SavagePencil]

Excellent, thank you for the GC values. Does anyone know the correct ones for the original Xbox?

Original Xbox is the same, 858/720 with 10:11 PAR.

Do be aware though, 480i from the original xbox is absolutely goddamn awful

You said it's the "same" as GC, but does that mean 660 active, or is it the full 720?

[Jademalo]

You said it's the "same" as GC, but does that mean 660 active, or is it the full 720?

Apologies, I wasn't super clear.
The original Xbox actually outputs to all 720 pixels, so you just need to apply the 10:11 ratio without any cropping.
That results in 655x480

[DirkSwizzler]

I have my OSSC in my setup and always leave the power switch "On". The only issue with doing that is the OSSC constantly is outputting a signal and the auto-switches I have see this constant "On" state and will always move over to the OSSC input even when no device is connected.

Knowing that I wouldn't be able to include my OSSC in my setup the way I want it, I did come up with a solution.

It's been a while so I forget what the parts were, but I built a load switch that will activate when it receives a +5V signal. This +5V signal comes from my SNES on the SCART cable (I only have my SNES going through my OSSC since it's my only console with zero HDMI mods available for it). When I turn on my SNES, the +5V signal is sent from the OSSC pin (I soldered a wire there) into my load switch. That activates the load switch which then allows the DC power to pass through and power on the OSSC.

Everything works like a champ now and I don't have to flip that switch or anything. Just turn on my SNES and the OSSC comes on and works its magic.

Genius!

I've wanted to do something similar so I can cleanly integrate the OSSC near the head of my HDMI switching chain instead of forcing it to the tail. But I have zero circuit design ability.

If you have any helpful links I'd sure appreciate them. If not, I'm sure having the name "load switch" will get me further in google than I've gotten before.

[ldeveraux]

I have my OSSC in my setup and always leave the power switch "On". The only issue with doing that is the OSSC constantly is outputting a signal and the auto-switches I have see this constant "On" state and will always move over to the OSSC input even when no device is connected.

Knowing that I wouldn't be able to include my OSSC in my setup the way I want it, I did come up with a solution.

It's been a while so I forget what the parts were, but I built a load switch that will activate when it receives a +5V signal. This +5V signal comes from my SNES on the SCART cable (I only have my SNES going through my OSSC since it's my only console with zero HDMI mods available for it). When I turn on my SNES, the +5V signal is sent from the OSSC pin (I soldered a wire there) into my load switch. That activates the load switch which then allows the DC power to pass through and power on the OSSC.

Everything works like a champ now and I don't have to flip that switch or anything. Just turn on my SNES and the OSSC comes on and works its magic.

Genius!

I've wanted to do something similar so I can cleanly integrate the OSSC near the head of my HDMI switching chain instead of forcing it to the tail. But I have zero circuit design ability.

If you have any helpful links I'd sure appreciate them. If not, I'm sure having the name "load switch" will get me further in google than I've gotten before.

Can't the OSSC only fit in one spot in the chain? I have mine after the SCART switches, outputting HDMI to the series of splitters/switches/amazingness from your thread. Not sure why you'd even need it elsewhere.

But I do agree with the load switch; it's worth a try I think assuming It can activate from any inlet. I hope he posts a link!

[DirkSwizzler]

I have my OSSC in my setup and always leave the power switch "On". The only issue with doing that is the OSSC constantly is outputting a signal and the auto-switches I have see this constant "On" state and will always move over to the OSSC input even when no device is connected.

Knowing that I wouldn't be able to include my OSSC in my setup the way I want it, I did come up with a solution.

It's been a while so I forget what the parts were, but I built a load switch that will activate when it receives a +5V signal. This +5V signal comes from my SNES on the SCART cable (I only have my SNES going through my OSSC since it's my only console with zero HDMI mods available for it). When I turn on my SNES, the +5V signal is sent from the OSSC pin (I soldered a wire there) into my load switch. That activates the load switch which then allows the DC power to pass through and power on the OSSC.

Everything works like a champ now and I don't have to flip that switch or anything. Just turn on my SNES and the OSSC comes on and works its magic.

Genius!

I've wanted to do something similar so I can cleanly integrate the OSSC near the head of my HDMI switching chain instead of forcing it to the tail. But I have zero circuit design ability.

If you have any helpful links I'd sure appreciate them. If not, I'm sure having the name "load switch" will get me further in google than I've gotten before.

Can't the OSSC only fit in one spot in the chain? I have mine after the SCART switches, outputting HDMI to the series of splitters/switches/amazingness from your thread. Not sure why you'd even need it elsewhere.

But I do agree with the load switch; it's worth a try I think assuming It can activate from any inlet. I hope he posts a link!

I'm referring to my HDMI chain.

Since I want every console to be fully autoswitched. I'm forced to leave the OSSC on.

When the OSSC is on, any automatic HDMI switch I've tried treats it as an active source. So I have to put it in the lowest priority port.

However, my head switch has to be fully OSSC and 4K60RGB compatible. So far this limits me to the Vorke HD41. Which only has 4 ports. And since I have 9 HDMI devices to hook up. I have to daisy chain at least 1 additional switch.

And every HDMI switch I've tried has the same port priority problem as the OSSC. I can't chain to anything but the lowest priority port. Which means I have to chain in serial and not parallel. And also means the OSSC is the last device on the last switch. Which means they all have to be 100% OSSC compatible. And any resolution switches of the OSSC have to sync on 3 switches instead of 1. Causing roughly 2 additional seconds of black screen per mode switch.

If the OSSC were invisible to the HDMI switch whenever an analog input wasn't present. Then I could move the OSSC to the head switch. And use a much less compatible switch with more ports as my chained switch. And reduce black screen on mode change.

It would be a HUGE win for auto switching.

[thebigcheese]

I'm referring to my HDMI chain.

Since I want every console to be fully autoswitched. I'm forced to leave the OSSC on.

When the OSSC is on, any automatic HDMI switch I've tried treats it as an active source. So I have to put it in the lowest priority port.

However, my head switch has to be fully OSSC and 4K60RGB compatible. So far this limits me to the Vorke HD41. Which only has 4 ports. And since I have 9 HDMI devices to hook up. I have to daisy chain at least 1 additional switch.

And every HDMI switch I've tried has the same port priority problem as the OSSC. I can't chain to anything but the lowest priority port. Which means I have to chain in serial and not parallel. And also means the OSSC is the last device on the last switch. Which means they all have to be 100% OSSC compatible. And any resolution switches of the OSSC have to sync on 3 switches instead of 1. Causing roughly 2 additional seconds of black screen per mode switch.

If the OSSC were invisible to the HDMI switch whenever an analog input wasn't present. Then I could move the OSSC to the head switch. And use a much less compatible switch with more ports as my chained switch. And reduce black screen on mode change.

It would be a HUGE win for auto switching.

FYI, I think I mentioned it in your other thread but the Smartooo switcher is a 5x1 and it works perfectly with the OSSC. That would be just enough to get all 9 devices with only 2 switchers. Just FYI Doesn't solve the autoswitching issue, though. I just leave my OSSC off when not in use to get around it.

[nmalinoski]

My goal was a fully-auto-switched setup as well, but I made one compromise in that I have power for all of my retro stuff (Currently the OSSC, component switcher, RGB decoder, and any console that goes through the OSSC) running to a CyberPower CPS1215RMS PDU. When I want to play one of these consoles, I flip the power switch on the PDU, which brings up the video processors, and then I just power on whichever console I want to use. When I'm done, power off the console, then flip the switch on the PDU.

Having to toggle power certainly isn't fully automatic, but a 2-step process (push this button, then that button) is still far simpler to operate than anything involving a matrix switcher; and I'm pretty sure I don't play my old consoles as much as most people in the retro community (I mainly use them for parties), so being able to just kill the power for my entire retro setup means I save a tiny bit on my power bill.

I also think I have a far simpler setup than some people on here; I haven't really needed to expand past the inputs I have on my AVR plus the Vorke HD41Pro. This lets me get away with hooking up my OSSC to port 4 on the Vorke, with my N64, Switch, and Steam Link on the other three ports without conflict from the OSSC; but, if I needed to, I could put the OSSC chain anywhere on my HDMI switchers, since it would normally be powered off.

[DirkSwizzler]

My goal was a fully-auto-switched setup as well, but I made one compromise in that I have power for all of my retro stuff (Currently the OSSC, component switcher, RGB decoder, and any console that goes through the OSSC) running to a CyberPower CPS1215RMS PDU. When I want to play one of these consoles, I flip the power switch on the PDU, which brings up the video processors, and then I just power on whichever console I want to use. When I'm done, power off the console, then flip the switch on the PDU.

I also made the power concession. I run my stuff through an APC LE1200 as recommended by db electronics that's always on to provide protection against power damage. That splits off to a charging shelf that's always on. It also branches off to a Furman PL-8C power conditioner for the entire rest of my gaming rack. And I turn the PL-8C off when the rack is not in use. Retro, new, and everything in between is completely disconnected from AC most of the time.

When I say auto-switching. I'm mostly referring to a setup that can be remembered by my wife and young kids. Which right now is:
1. Speak the words "Alexa, turn on a game"
2. Power on the PL-8C master switch.
3. Turn on the thing you want to play.

As soon as I throw a "if this, then this. If that, then that" curveball in there, it all falls apart.

[Hoagtech]

My goal was a fully-auto-switched setup as well, but I made one compromise in that I have power for all of my retro stuff (Currently the OSSC, component switcher, RGB decoder, and any console that goes through the OSSC) running to a CyberPower CPS1215RMS PDU. When I want to play one of these consoles, I flip the power switch on the PDU, which brings up the video processors, and then I just power on whichever console I want to use. When I'm done, power off the console, then flip the switch on the PDU.

I also made the power concession. I run my stuff through an APC LE1200 as recommended by db electronics that's always on to provide protection against power damage. That splits off to a charging shelf that's always on. It also branches off to a Furman PL-8C power conditioner for the entire rest of my gaming rack. And I turn the PL-8C off when the rack is not in use. Retro, new, and everything in between is completely disconnected from AC most of the time.

When I say auto-switching. I'm mostly referring to a setup that can be remembered by my wife and young kids. Which right now is:
1. Speak the words "Alexa, turn on a game"
2. Power on the PL-8C master switch.
3. Turn on the thing you want to play.

As soon as I throw a "if this, then this. If that, then that" curveball in there, it all falls apart.

I was wondering auto switches you use for your OSSC sources?

If you have component and RGB on different AC ON OSSC. do you still switch using the OSSC remote? Last time I tried auto switch mode on OSSC it would work for one day or certain consoles and I would have find my remote.

There’s where my auto switching into OSSC got stuck. I haven’t tried feeding all signals through av3 but o don’t want to because of a different filter on av3.

[DirkSwizzler]

I was wondering auto switches you use for your OSSC sources?

If you have component and RGB on different AC ON OSSC. do you still switch using the OSSC remote? Last time I tried auto switch mode on OSSC it would work for one day or certain consoles and I would have find my remote.

There’s where my auto switching into OSSC got stuck. I haven’t tried feeding all signals through av3 but o don’t want to because of a different filter on av3.

Working from the head (the thing the connects to displays/OSSC) of my chain to the many tails...

1. A gscartsw 3.4 with lpf switch mod (lpf disabled). This one mostly handles native RGBS 15khz consoles that I play the most.
2. The newest gscartsw 5.2 connected to port 8 of #1 so HD signals pass through. With sync regen enabled. This one fixes sync issues for non-csync consoles as well as the Garo.
3. A gscartsw_lite connected to #1. With sync regen disabled. This extends the port count of native RGBS 15khz
4. An old model garo with Guspaz's recommended mods. Connected to #2. This brings component signals into the chain.
5. A gcompsw connected to #4 to bring component signals into the chain
6. A kenzei connected to #2 to bring RGBHV into the chain.
7. A retrotink 2x with hdmi->vga adaptor plugged into #6. This is not auto switched and it makes me sad
8. A no-name svideo/composite to RGsB transcoder from eBay connected to #2. It looks terrible but it plays well with auto switching.
9. A gcompsw connected to #7 or #8 depending on whether I want fully auto switched with terrible quality or non-auto switched with acceptable quality. With adapters to convert svideo in/out to YPb rca as necessary. This brings composite and svideo into the chain.
10. An rf to composite transcoder connected to #9

So everything terminates as RGBS at #1


And if there were a descent composite/svideo to rgb/ypbpr transcoder I'd be happier

[Hoagtech]

I should be converting to scart instead of RGBHV.

That still doesn’t solve my sync issues with my Taito F3 requiring a av3 OSSC filter though.

I like solving most of my problems though so I gonna work towards it.

Thanks for clarifying.

You must be one of the lucky ones that has a good sync signal on your pvm with F3.

[DirkSwizzler]

I should be converting to scart instead of RGBHV.

That still doesn’t solve my sync issues with my Taito F3 requiring a av3 OSSC filter though.

I like solving most of my problems though so I gonna work towards it.

Thanks for clarifying.

You must be one of the lucky ones that has a good sync signal on your pvm with F3.

I don't use my F3 much. But I definitely had issues the last time i tried. I think i got thr best results with HAS vga adapter board and a kenzei. Can't clearly remember though.

[ldeveraux]

I was wondering auto switches you use for your OSSC sources?

If you have component and RGB on different AC ON OSSC. do you still switch using the OSSC remote? Last time I tried auto switch mode on OSSC it would work for one day or certain consoles and I would have find my remote.

There’s where my auto switching into OSSC got stuck. I haven’t tried feeding all signals through av3 but o don’t want to because of a different filter on av3.

Working from the head (the thing the connects to displays/OSSC) of my chain to the many tails...

1. A gscartsw 3.4 with lpf switch mod (lpf disabled). This one mostly handles native RGBS 15khz consoles that I play the most.
2. The newest gscartsw 5.2 connected to port 8 of #1 so HD signals pass through. With sync regen enabled. This one fixes sync issues for non-csync consoles as well as the Garo.
3. A gscartsw_lite connected to #1. With sync regen disabled. This extends the port count of native RGBS 15khz
4. An old model garo with Guspaz's recommended mods. Connected to #2. This brings component signals into the chain.
5. A gcompsw connected to #4 to bring component signals into the chain
6. A kenzei connected to #2 to bring RGBHV into the chain.
7. A retrotink 2x with hdmi->vga adaptor plugged into #6. This is not auto switched and it makes me sad
8. A no-name svideo/composite to RGsB transcoder from eBay connected to #2. It looks terrible but it plays well with auto switching.
9. A gcompsw connected to #7 or #8 depending on whether I want fully auto switched with terrible quality or non-auto switched with acceptable quality. With adapters to convert svideo in/out to YPb rca as necessary. This brings composite and svideo into the chain.
10. An rf to composite transcoder connected to #9

So everything terminates as RGBS at #1


And if there were a descent composite/svideo to rgb/ypbpr transcoder I'd be happier

This is essentially what I have, +/- a few differences, but it's fairly similar. I finally found a way to power the OSSC through a USB port on the TV, though it activates whenever the TV turns on, not only when I want to play a game. Realistically, I'm not too concerned with powering the OSSC on demand any more, you still have to turn on the console, right? And find the game to play, controllers, etc.