I don't think he ever got it finished to his own satisfaction.
Syntax and I have come up with a technique to mix the OSD and external RGB just by matching voltage levels. Happy to help you implement it if you are interested, will need to know details of the set you are wishing to modify.
MarkOZLAD wrote:I don't think he ever got it finished to his own satisfaction.
Syntax and I have come up with a technique to mix the OSD and external RGB just by matching voltage levels. Happy to help you implement it if you are interested, will need to know details of the set you are wishing to modify.
I never liked the thought of losing the OSD on TV's like Sony Trinitrons where they rely on it for image adjustments in the service menu. I adjust the image on my arcade monitor using the remote board every time I change games in Mame. Without the ability to change the image size and position, tons of games won't fill the screen or overfill it.
This board essentially solves that issue. Nice.
Now, we just need someone to figure out how to make a remote board that allows for fast image adjustments like you get on monitors.
Please can you explain the process of how you have circuit boards made for you at a fab shop? I.e. Do you just give them a schematic and they give you a price or do they help with the design stage? What about code for chips etc?
KnuckleheadFlow wrote:
I just submitted an order with a fab shop yesterday. It being my first circuit, I decided for a few fancy options so it could have been cheaper but it's still pretty good at $2 US each. I got some extra, so if people are interested, I can sell off a few of these. I don't care about making a profit with these, so cost +shipping will be what I'll ask for with the first batch. If there's enough interest, I could go for a second batch and depending on how many, we could get the price down to $1.10 or less. But lets not put the cart before the horse. I doubt the RGB TV modding industry is very big lmao.
Do you have any more of these unpopulated boards? I'd love to buy a batch (5 to 10, possibly more depending on price) to convert some of the TVs I've hijacked the OSD with switches and a few for spares in the future.
Hey, I took your idea for the RGB input PCB and made my own version. It's basically the same, but drops the logic chip and adds a VGA connector for input. I've also added a 3D printed bracket to mount it to a TV input panel.
It's attached via the OSD input. Levels basically match the OSD. Doing this on a Toshiba loses brightness/contrast control (it might be kept when using the PIP input, which this mod should easily work with as well).
It's pointless using this mod/amp on a set with pip. And you can achieve the same thing with a few resistors and caps. No need to mux when you can mix.
Check out the TV rgb mod thread.
TD-Linux wrote:Hey, I took your idea for the RGB input PCB and made my own version. It's basically the same, but drops the logic chip and adds a VGA connector for input. I've also added a 3D printed bracket to mount it to a TV input panel.
It's attached via the OSD input. Levels basically match the OSD. Doing this on a Toshiba loses brightness/contrast control (it might be kept when using the PIP input, which this mod should easily work with as well).
This is fantastic! I have been working on an arcade cab with A PC Using crt emudriver and groovymame. I currently have a retrotek VGACTV1 transcoder, which works fine, but would like to omit it and use RGB through VGA. I have done a lot of software work and the control panel is finished and working flawlessly In 240p for mame,nes,snes, ect. My problem is i lack the skills to confidently make this mod. A pre-populated board with A VGA header would be perfect. I have read though the rgb mod thread, and every time i think i understand, something changes. Injection points, resistor values, terminations. Im still overwhelmed.
In working on a different board, I discovered that the footprint for the DE-15 connector in the included Kicad libraries has incorrect pin row spacing relative to the actual connectors in real life. So I forked your project and corrected it. A pull request is open to merge the changes back into your repository.
One more issue, and I'm not sure if it's a problem or not depending on how exactly you intend the board to be installed:
I see you have the sync pin from the VGA input being switched into the line you have labeled on the PCB as "composite" in and out. If you are intending people to use a composite video input on the TV as a way to inject sync, then a series resistor on the sync pin coming from the VGA would be in order. Even when using RGBS, any sync signal being carried over a VGA cable should be expected to be TTL level.
maxtherabbit wrote:
fuck yeah, that will go nicely with the console to VGA pigtails I'm working on
let's keep pushing SCART toward the garbage dump, one day at a time
Curious to see the VGA pigtails. A DB-15 looks a whole hell of a lot better than a SCART connector. Much easier to find DB-15 connectors, but nobody's making DB-15 RGB cables for consoles. Would love to have some for when I get my 36 inch Toshiba modded.
immaburr wrote:I was wondering if this project was still active? Sorry to bump if not, I was interested in using a board like this to RGB mod my Trinitron KV20M42.
I don't know, I don't think so though. With the OSD mix method it's not really needed anymore. Your TV looks pretty easy.
I would start by trying the unused RGB inputs on 26/27/28. There's a good chance they are disabled in software, but to check you can grab 1V and put in on Ys on pin 25 and switch your TV to the 'TV' input (static). If the screen goes black when 1V is applied, the inputs are available.
If they are disabled, you can do the standard OSD mix method by pulling R087, R088, and R089 and injecting there. Can discuss further in the RGB mod thread.
I would start by trying the unused RGB inputs on 26/27/28. There's a good chance they are disabled in software, but to check you can grab 1V and put in on Ys on pin 25 and switch your TV to the 'TV' input (static). If the screen goes black when 1V is applied, the inputs are available.
If they are disabled, you can do the standard OSD mix method by pulling R087, R088, and R089 and injecting there. Can discuss further in the RGB mod thread.