BVM Wobble D24E1WE (close up) Example Video Inside

zak · Post by **zak** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:52 am

Hi guys,

What causes this weird wobbble effect?

It looks like the example on this video at (8:50):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwognv5 ... nCm7VKYOkA

Bad quality scart cable? using BNC -> scart female socket.

RGB0b · Post by **RGB0b** » Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:05 pm

That same thing was happening to a friend of mine. He did a cap replacement and it completely fixed it. That might not be the fix in all cases, but it definitely worked for him.

zak · Post by **zak** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:24 am

What's interesting is that I can't see it when playing Genesis games.

I can see it when playing SNES.

When a Saturn is hooked up, it looks the worst! Wibble wobble wibble wum

Jockel · Post by **Jockel** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:05 am

Try fiddling with this little friend.

zak · Post by **zak** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 11:20 am

H Static Conv and V Static Conv tweaks seem to improve it, so it may be a subtle convergence issue.

viletim · Post by **viletim** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 3:42 pm

zak,

The horizontal oscillator inside the TV set isn't stable. That's the symptom, not the root cause, which could be many things. It's fairly common for the power supply decoupling capacitors to deteriorate over time. Then the various different sections of the TV set start to interact (couple) with each other over the supply rails. It leads to symptoms like this. It's also possible for the cable to be at fault as a poor cable causes coupling between the signals before they even get into the TV set, but it's less likely, and you would typically get other symptoms too like bad audio too.

The fact is that a TV set is not really designed to last more than 10 years at without a service. Considering that the TV repair market totally collapsed in 2008 (at least around here), every CRT television is basically due for service by now. I'd say TV set in the video is about 20 years old.

zak · Post by **zak** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 7:10 pm

Hi Tim thanks for your reply. The video above is not mine. I was just using it as an example to describe my issue.

My monitor is a D24E1WE. It's a 2006/2007 model with only 40,000 hours on the clock.

I am optimistic though

Fingers crossed it's a combination of things I can tweak to fix etc. It's certainly improved with today's adjustments.

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Thu Aug 10, 2017 10:52 pm

Turns out it was my snes

philexile · Post by **philexile** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 3:48 am

viletim wrote: The fact is that a TV set is not really designed to last more than 10 years at without a service. Considering that the TV repair market totally collapsed in 2008 (at least around here), every CRT television is basically due for service by now. I'd say TV set in the video is about 20 years old.

Hi Tim, Just out of curiosity: what was your typical checklist for servicing?

zak wrote: My monitor is a D24E1WE. It's a 2006/2007 model with only 40,000 hours on the clock.

That is actually a pretty good number of hours for a BVM.

LDigital wrote:I have had this issue on 2x bvm 24 and am at a loss what to do. I have lots of spare parts stockpiled and have tried different video amps and recaps, deflection modules and recap and different power cards and I still get the same. I think it might be inherent

Have you tried swapping out the PA board?

zak · Post by **zak** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 10:53 am

My issue is still there. I think I was just being wishful

I say this because you can see it on menus and the built in cross hatch.

Dochartaigh · Post by **Dochartaigh** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 3:27 pm

Is this the same issue?

https://youtu.be/y-f5yCSu02I

Mine does this, on only 1 monitor (others hooked up to the same source are fine), and this only happens on 1 single source - my Raspberry Pi 3 with RGB output board. Tried different cables, different Pi's, different brands of boards on the Pi's, etc.

I was told to recap the deflection board. Haven't done it yet but hope it'll get rid of this shuttering / wobbling / blooming / shaking / whatever it's called.

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:38 pm

No, that's a slightly different issue. The issue we see is a horizontal ripple on vertical lines.

philexile · Post by **philexile** » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:40 pm

LDigital wrote:The issue we see is a horizontal ripple on vertical lines.

Can you post a closeup video?

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:16 am

philexile wrote:
LDigital wrote:The issue we see is a horizontal ripple on vertical lines.
Can you post a closeup video?

Indeed, I tried switching out the PA board last night and apart from utterly changing my settings, geometry etc to another stored set. The issue persists

I think this video captures it well

https://youtu.be/AQSNmxjX99U

The focus issue is the iPhone camera thankfully

zak · Post by **zak** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 9:02 am

LDigital wrote: I think this video captures it well

https://youtu.be/AQSNmxjX99U

That's exactly what I am seeing!

It happens when VCR mode is ON and OFF.

zak · Post by **zak** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:06 am

Is there any way to set AFC timing on the D24?

This seems to be the solution for people who own other BVMs with the same issue.

philexile · Post by **philexile** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 12:44 pm

LDigital wrote:
philexile wrote:
LDigital wrote:The issue we see is a horizontal ripple on vertical lines.
Can you post a closeup video?
Indeed, I tried switching out the PA board last night and apart from utterly changing my settings, geometry etc to another stored set. The issue persists

I think this video captures it well

https://youtu.be/AQSNmxjX99U

The focus issue is the iPhone camera thankfully

It sounds like you changed the ISR board, not the PA board. I can send you a service manual if you need it. Just PM me.

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 1:32 pm

Hi. Yes you are right. I know the one you mean so will try changing that too. Thanks

zak · Post by **zak** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 9:53 pm

I spoke to Pat earlier today (thanks philexile).

Sounds like the deflection board and RGB board need recapping.

Gonna send mine to the US next week.

It's not cheap, but at least I'll have peace of mind for the next 10 years or so.

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:39 pm

Hopefully it can then be fixed. Do you know if it's going to be a complete recap or just the upgraded recap kit that he sells?

zak · Post by **zak** » Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:12 am

Most likely the upgrade kit.

He sounded confident about it.

So I reckon that should fix it

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:37 pm

Cool, Let me know how that gets on. I'd love to get a solid fix on this. I'm going to try me spare pa board soon

zak · Post by **zak** » Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:18 pm

LDigital wrote:Cool, Let me know how that gets on. I'd love to get a solid fix on this. I'm going to try me spare pa board soon

Package on its way to Pat now

I should have the deflection board and RGB board back next week. I will report back as soon as I receive them.

zak · Post by **zak** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:16 am

philexile wrote:
It sounds like you changed the ISR board, not the PA board. I can send you a service manual if you need it. Just PM me.

Where is the PA board located?

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:02 pm

Remove the side panel on the side that had the power card and it is accessible from there. I haven't changed mine yet as I have a spare but will do so soon. I also just received the cap kit from pat so will try one thing at a time and hope that the problem fixes.

Did you receive your cards back?

zak · Post by **zak** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:15 pm

LDigital wrote:Remove the side panel on the side that had the power card and it is accessible from there. I haven't changed mine yet as I have a spare but will do so soon. I also just received the cap kit from pat so will try one thing at a time and hope that the problem fixes.

Did you receive your cards back?

I should be getting mine back this week.

Apparently my deflection board tested out perfectly, but my RGB board had a lot of bad caps.

So I am not sure if the RGB board is the culprit.

--------------------------------------------------

I actually ask about the PA board because I bought another D24 which makes a high pitch squeal when you power on (it goes away after 2 minutes though).

Pat suspects the PA board. could it also be the PSU? Not sure why this is happening - there are only 6000 hours on this thing!

zak · Post by **zak** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 4:13 pm

LDigital wrote:Remove the side panel on the side that had the power card and it is accessible from there. I haven't changed mine yet as I have a spare but will do so soon. I also just received the cap kit from pat so will try one thing at a time and hope that the problem fixes.

Did you receive your cards back?

Do you know where I can get a spare PA board? That high pitch whine really hurts the ears

LDigital · Post by **LDigital** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 5:03 pm

Nope sorry, I bought a cracked tube d24 on eBay and completely stripped it for spare parts. Not sure how else you might get one

zak · Post by **zak** » Mon Aug 21, 2017 5:51 pm

Darn it

missed 3 from Pat too.

I guess the PA board can be recapped...

zak · Post by **zak** » Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:23 pm

Update - still waiting for my RGB board to clear customs, but I did run some more tests using the other D24 I have.

I took the RGB board out of the 6,000 hour BVM and put it into the 40,000 hour D24 and the wobble was virtually gone.

So I think an RGB recap may very well fix this. I will confirm this week after paying the tax man his fee...

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