Questions that do not deserve a thread

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GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

Einzelherz wrote:
GojiFan90 wrote:Just picked up a new (to me) CRT from Craigslist but the speakers are blown. Can anyone recommend a pair of decent, inexpensive PC speakers that are properly shielded? The TV has analog RCA audio out so I suppose I could use a 3.5 to RCA Y-cable.
The best in PC speakers deals I've seen in a while was the klipsch 2.1 set going for like ~70 at walmart a month ago? Might see if those are still around.
The Promedia 2.1 speakers? According to this Reddit post, they are no longer shielded. :(

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... rs_are_no/
Dochartaigh
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

GojiFan90 wrote:The Promedia 2.1 speakers? According to this Reddit post, they are no longer shielded. :(

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... rs_are_no/
Even the Klipsch (self powered) ones which ARE shielded, still can't be put right next to a CRT without discoloration, so it also matters what your setup is going to be like.

Also, just a FYI, but nearly any speaker of this size (including UNshielded) is generally perfectly fine even like ~4" away... really doesn't take much for smaller speakers to not effect your CRT's so if you have a little bit of room around the CRT (which is needed for good stereo separation anyway – if you care about that) just get whatever you like best. I choose Vanatoo Transparent Zero's myself but they're not inexpensive as the OP is looking for (just sound the best to my ears).
eccoboy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by eccoboy »

Dochartaigh wrote:
GojiFan90 wrote:The Promedia 2.1 speakers? According to this Reddit post, they are no longer shielded. :(

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... rs_are_no/
Even the Klipsch (self powered) ones which ARE shielded, still can't be put right next to a CRT without discoloration, so it also matters what your setup is going to be like.

Also, just a FYI, but nearly any speaker of this size (including UNshielded) is generally perfectly fine even like ~4" away... really doesn't take much for smaller speakers to not effect your CRT's so if you have a little bit of room around the CRT (which is needed for good stereo separation anyway – if you care about that) just get whatever you like best. I choose Vanatoo Transparent Zero's myself but they're not inexpensive as the OP is looking for (just sound the best to my ears).
I can confirm that unshielded speakers can be ok if moved away from the TV. Even larger ones. I have unshielded Klipsch towers about 4" from a 36" Sony with no issues.
I also have medium sized studio monitors right next to (nearly touching) a PVM with no issues. These are shielded. I tried unshielded in the same position and they caused major discoloration.
GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

^Awesome, I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. When I say inexpensive I mean ~$100USD, but I'd be willing to go a little over. They do have to be compact though as I only have about 4-5" on either side of the TV stand. Due to the layout, I have no room for speaker stands. I was also looking at Bose "companion" speakers, if anyone can attest to those. The Klipsch look like a great pair of speakers too.
eccoboy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by eccoboy »

GojiFan90 wrote:^Awesome, I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. When I say inexpensive I mean ~$100USD, but I'd be willing to go a little over. They do have to be compact though as I only have about 4-5" on either side of the TV stand. Due to the layout, I have no room for speaker stands. I was also looking at Bose "companion" speakers, if anyone can attest to those. The Klipsch look like a great pair of speakers too.
If you want to spend more (or can find used) I recommend Audioengine A2+. These are very compact. Something to consider: depending on the size of the TV it might look funny to have tiny speakers sitting next to it, and if you sit close to the screen your sound image may be off. You'll have to use speaker risers with an option to tilt the speakers back to point the tweeters up.
charlizardon
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by charlizardon »

eccoboy wrote:
GojiFan90 wrote:^Awesome, I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. When I say inexpensive I mean ~$100USD, but I'd be willing to go a little over. They do have to be compact though as I only have about 4-5" on either side of the TV stand. Due to the layout, I have no room for speaker stands. I was also looking at Bose "companion" speakers, if anyone can attest to those. The Klipsch look like a great pair of speakers too.
If you want to spend more (or can find used) I recommend Audioengine A2+. These are very compact. Something to consider: depending on the size of the TV it might look funny to have tiny speakers sitting next to it, and if you sit close to the screen your sound image may be off. You'll have to use speaker risers with an option to tilt the speakers back to point the tweeters up.
Agreed. I have the HD3s which are essentially the same as the A2s and find them perfect for a desk setup. I have them right next to a 14 inch BVM and a 17 inch DT-V.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

The external speaker I used for years wasn't actually a set. It was a Nodus Psyclone that's originally intended for the Sony PSP. It had a well reviewed amp and sound performance when I bought it ages ago on $15 clearance. I eventually picked up another one cause I enjoyed the sound so much.

You can get it on ebay for $60, if you want. It doesn't give great sound separation (drivers are only like 16" apart) but it's a nice compact unit that can sit above or below a screen easily and never cause any interference for me.
Smashbro29
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

I want to eventually get an N64 digital installed but I need to work out a way to make it less expensive. As is, it's looking like a roughly $400 endeavor if I'm even lucky enough to score one. As a stopgap, will hd retrovision component cables work straight to TVs or should I just go with S-video? I did at some point RGB mod my N64 but I've since sold my FM, if it helps I recall my cable needed to be boosted for brightness. Thanks shumps friends.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

Smashbro29 wrote:I want to eventually get an N64 digital installed but I need to work out a way to make it less expensive. As is, it's looking like a roughly $400 endeavor if I'm even lucky enough to score one. As a stopgap, will hd retrovision component cables work straight to TVs or should I just go with S-video? I did at some point RGB mod my N64 but I've since sold my FM, if it helps I recall my cable needed to be boosted for brightness. Thanks shumps friends.
HDRV cables will not work at all if you don't have the N64 RGB modded
Smashbro29
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

maxtherabbit wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:I want to eventually get an N64 digital installed but I need to work out a way to make it less expensive. As is, it's looking like a roughly $400 endeavor if I'm even lucky enough to score one. As a stopgap, will hd retrovision component cables work straight to TVs or should I just go with S-video? I did at some point RGB mod my N64 but I've since sold my FM, if it helps I recall my cable needed to be boosted for brightness. Thanks shumps friends.
HDRV cables will not work at all if you don't have the N64 RGB modded
I know, that's why I took the time to mention I did but required a boosted scart cable.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

Smashbro29 wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:I want to eventually get an N64 digital installed but I need to work out a way to make it less expensive. As is, it's looking like a roughly $400 endeavor if I'm even lucky enough to score one. As a stopgap, will hd retrovision component cables work straight to TVs or should I just go with S-video? I did at some point RGB mod my N64 but I've since sold my FM, if it helps I recall my cable needed to be boosted for brightness. Thanks shumps friends.
HDRV cables will not work at all if you don't have the N64 RGB modded
I know, that's why I took the time to mention I did but required a boosted scart cable.
Oh I'm sorry I read your post wrong, I thought you said you sold the RGB modded 64

I'm not sure what type of brightness boosted cables you're referring to, but that sounds highly suspect. A proper RGB mod that would work with HDRVs would just work with a normal RGB SCART lead
Smashbro29
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

maxtherabbit wrote: Oh I'm sorry I read your post wrong, I thought you said you sold the RGB modded 64
I'm not sure what type of brightness boosted cables you're referring to, but that sounds highly suspect. A proper RGB mod that would work with HDRVs would just work with a normal RGB SCART lead
Yeah I'm willing to bet either the cable was iffy and they sent me a fixed one or more likely the mod was done poorly (as the cable worked just fine on my SNES). Just to play it safe I guess I'll go S-video, what's the recommended S-video cable for an N64 these days? I found a few on RetroRGB but they're out of stock. I need something for Mario Party while I scrape my pennies together for the N64 digital + install.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

I installed Tim's NESRGB in my toaster NES like 7ish years ago, and when I did I used a Mini Din 9 attached to an off the shelf adapter board as my port. I had a spare Naki Dreamcast cable that I converted the console side to a Genesis mini din 9 connector. The problem I'm asking about is that it's always had a lot of audio buzzing. I think at first it didn't, but it definitely does these days. I can't recall off the top of my head if the cable I left as a dreamcast one does as well, but I can test that later.

My question is - assuming this cable is shielded properly, how do I go about troubleshooting where the interference is? I suspect it's coming from the csync line because the more white on a screen, especially full white, the noisier it is. I thought about ordering a better quality cable from Retro Access, but if the issue is somewhere in my modded console, it'll only help point to that fact.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Bassa-Bassa »

Pretty elementary question, bear with me: I’d like to give some use to an old 5.1 Targa home cinema system I have by plugging it to an LG TV set from this year. The Targa device is so old that it doesn’t support digital signals, it just has RCA inputs for aux sources. What’d be the best connection in a case like this, the TV’s minijack phones output directly into the Targa receiver or a DAC for the TV’s optical out?

Neither will support actual 5.1 sound, right?

Thanks!
fernan1234
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by fernan1234 »

Einzelherz wrote:My question is - assuming this cable is shielded properly, how do I go about troubleshooting where the interference is? I suspect it's coming from the csync line because the more white on a screen, especially full white, the noisier it is. I thought about ordering a better quality cable from Retro Access, but if the issue is somewhere in my modded console, it'll only help point to that fact.
In cases like this where white/bright pictures increase the noise, it is 100% the video lines (not the sync line) crosstalking into the audio line due to inadequate shielding. A properly shielded cable like one from Retro-Access should fix this for you.
Bassa-Bassa
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Bassa-Bassa »

Bassa-Bassa wrote:Pretty elementary question, bear with me: I’d like to give some use to an old 5.1 Targa home cinema system I have by plugging it to an LG TV set from this year. The Targa device is so old that it doesn’t support digital signals, it just has RCA inputs for aux sources. What’d be the best connection in a case like this, the TV’s minijack phones output directly into the Targa receiver or a DAC for the TV’s optical out?

Neither will support actual 5.1 sound, right?

Thanks!
Update: Tried the first option (minijack-RCA) and I only get sound from one of the speakers and the subwoofer. Is this normal and should I expect better results with the DAC solution? I'm really a noob in regards to audio equipment.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

fernan1234 wrote:
Einzelherz wrote:My question is - assuming this cable is shielded properly, how do I go about troubleshooting where the interference is? I suspect it's coming from the csync line because the more white on a screen, especially full white, the noisier it is. I thought about ordering a better quality cable from Retro Access, but if the issue is somewhere in my modded console, it'll only help point to that fact.
In cases like this where white/bright pictures increase the noise, it is 100% the video lines (not the sync line) crosstalking into the audio line due to inadequate shielding. A properly shielded cable like one from Retro-Access should fix this for you.
The thing is, I think the cable is properly shielded based on the last time I used it on the dreamcast. I need to doublecheck that this weekend. I'm concerned my modding the NES is the source. I just didn't know if there's a troubleshoot method via checking voltages or using an oscilloscope.



Also I have another, unrelated, question. As more and more devices are running off of USB (in my home center I've got snes micro, genesis micro, ps1 classic, legends gamer pro, and now Retrotink 5x) is it a bad idea to use a multiport charger to accommodate all of these? My biggest concern is the seeming unavailability of a multi port USB charger made by a company better than ANKER. Would there be any other concerns for doing this? I'm not thrilled by the idea of each single device needing to use its own wall wart.
GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

Can anyone recommend a good quality (preferably shielded) s-video splitter or y-cable? My CRT has only one s-video input, and I would like to connect two svid sources simultaneously. Monoprice makes a cheap splitter, but it gives me pause. I find that you get what you pay for with analog cables.
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Einzelherz
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Einzelherz »

GojiFan90 wrote:Can anyone recommend a good quality (preferably shielded) s-video splitter or y-cable? My CRT has only one s-video input, and I would like to connect two svid sources simultaneously. Monoprice makes a cheap splitter, but it gives me pause. I find that you get what you pay for with analog cables.
A splitter is going to weaken the signal. I think you want a switch. Philips make a good passive one I've used in the past. The model is PH61148.
GojiFan90
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by GojiFan90 »

Einzelherz wrote:
GojiFan90 wrote:Can anyone recommend a good quality (preferably shielded) s-video splitter or y-cable? My CRT has only one s-video input, and I would like to connect two svid sources simultaneously. Monoprice makes a cheap splitter, but it gives me pause. I find that you get what you pay for with analog cables.
A splitter is going to weaken the signal. I think you want a switch. Philips make a good passive one I've used in the past. The model is PH61148.
Thank you! Luckily AV switchers for analog sources are very affordable nowadays since no one uses them any more (except for us hobbyists)! :mrgreen:
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

If a computer monitor says that it supports "adaptive sync," but does not specify Freesync or Gsync, what does that mean and what is it compatible with?

I know it has to do with the VESA standard, but I can't determine what good it can do.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

I was wondering about 4k60 capable scalers, are they desirable?

I saw Extron DSC 401 scaler capable of such a thing but it is not tailored for retro gaming scene, plus it is +1500$ which no one could pay.

I wonder if people are willing to pay say 700$ (or similar comparable price to current scalers) retail price for a capable 4k60 retro scaler, or how much are they willing to pay. Since new scaler devices are easily getting more expensive than before and yet they run out of stock in mere minutes.
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orange808
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by orange808 »

The Extron is a nice machine and I think there are a lot of units in circulation right now. Lag is one frame and many users won't mind. The price on used machines will be interesting, because most home theatre enthusiasts will have little appetite for a limited processor, with bad deinterlacing (remember that most broadcast content is still 1080i), and no HDR. Gamers will be only people buying them. While not specifically designed for gaming, the Extron HD HD 4k won't have any marketability outside of gaming when commercial/industrial users upgrade and sell their units.

You might find more success building a less expensive limited scaler that expects one standard signal (720p? 960p?
1080p?) and outputs a chunky integer scaled 4k/60 with almost no options over Thunderbolt 3. Of course, that only works if you can hit a reasonable price point. Why Thunderbolt 3? It's free.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

orange808 wrote:The Extron is a nice machine and I think there are a lot of units in circulation right now. Lag is one frame and many users won't mind. The price on used machines will be interesting, because most home theatre enthusiasts will have little appetite for a limited processor, with bad deinterlacing (remember that most broadcast content is still 1080i), and no HDR. Gamers will be only people buying them. While not specifically designed for gaming, the Extron HD HD 4k won't have any marketability outside of gaming when commercial/industrial users upgrade and sell their units.

You might find more success building a less expensive limited scaler that expects one standard signal (720p? 960p?
1080p?) and outputs a chunky integer scaled 4k/60 with almost no options over Thunderbolt 3. Of course, that only works if you can hit a reasonable price point. Why Thunderbolt 3? It's free.
I didn't want to undermine Extron stuff, but rather to say that 1500$ for non-gaming oriented 4k60 is just too much. I really don't know who are their customers to be honest, therefore I won't judge.

I was talking about a device similar to 5x or ossc pro but capable of 4k60 with say 2 HDMI inputs (up to 4k60) + all analog inputs. upscale all to 4k60 or downscale all to 240p with minimal lag. this is what I was talking about.

this device will easily be 700-800$ price if we were lucky, therefore will it be desirable in gaming community? are they willing to pay that much? what do you think.
hittheweights93
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by hittheweights93 »

I just finished installing a SuperCIC into my SNSP-CPU-01 model SNES, but have been having some serious woes with it when testing.

The results I would get were different and progressively worse and worse:

1. The console would boot, but the LED would cycle between its three colours as though the reset line is being held permanently.
2. The console would take roughly 30 secs for anything to occur, either the LED would light up green (50hz) and do nothing else, or do the same as #1.
3. The console would do nothing at all.

I'm simply using a PIC16F630 on a SOIC14 adapter board and some rather small wiring, all I can think is that there's a small amount of flux left somewhere on the board or there's a short between one of the pads which I really don't see being the case having checked over everything several times.

I'm half tempted to pony up and buy one of borti4938's PCBs and be done with it, I figure that'd be a more reliable solution in the long run.
colourenjoyer
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by colourenjoyer »

I can't get colour on my NES (retron hd 1 clone console on ntsc mode, composite) with my PMV-14N6E, wii works fine, also composite.

Colours did show up a couple times but in a weird rainbow strobing way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doajHopLB6Y
I've tried a few other PVMS with the same issue but managed to get colour out of it on a SAM-14MV

I'm not very knowledgeable with these things so I have no ideas
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Kind of a silly question for here, but can anyone recommend a good flux? I've tried what was supposedly Kester 951 "no-clean" liquid flux bought from Amazon and it didn't seem to do a whole lot other than leave a huge layer of white residue wherever I put it. Extreme cleaning is kind of the opposite of what I was expecting... Maybe a flux pen would be a better option?
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hittheweights93
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by hittheweights93 »

hittheweights93 wrote:I just finished installing a SuperCIC into my SNSP-CPU-01 model SNES, but have been having some serious woes with it when testing.

The results I would get were different and progressively worse and worse:

1. The console would boot, but the LED would cycle between its three colours as though the reset line is being held permanently.
2. The console would take roughly 30 secs for anything to occur, either the LED would light up green (50hz) and do nothing else, or do the same as #1.
3. The console would do nothing at all.

I'm simply using a PIC16F630 on a SOIC14 adapter board and some rather small wiring, all I can think is that there's a small amount of flux left somewhere on the board or there's a short between one of the pads which I really don't see being the case having checked over everything several times.

I'm half tempted to pony up and buy one of borti4938's PCBs and be done with it, I figure that'd be a more reliable solution in the long run.
I simply ended up reinstalling the original CIC chip and all is well again.
eccoboy
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by eccoboy »

bobrocks95 wrote:Kind of a silly question for here, but can anyone recommend a good flux? I've tried what was supposedly Kester 951 "no-clean" liquid flux bought from Amazon and it didn't seem to do a whole lot other than leave a huge layer of white residue wherever I put it. Extreme cleaning is kind of the opposite of what I was expecting... Maybe a flux pen would be a better option?
Kester 186 no clean works for me. Flux, whether it's a liquid or pen, is used to help solder flow more easily. When you are done you will have a mess of flux residue. There's some debate over whether you should clean "no clean" flux. I do. I clean the residue with alcohol. There's always some white residue left over. I wouldn't say it's a "huge layer" but it's there. If you leave alcohol on the residue too long before wiping off you will have more white residue.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

eccoboy wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:Kind of a silly question for here, but can anyone recommend a good flux? I've tried what was supposedly Kester 951 "no-clean" liquid flux bought from Amazon and it didn't seem to do a whole lot other than leave a huge layer of white residue wherever I put it. Extreme cleaning is kind of the opposite of what I was expecting... Maybe a flux pen would be a better option?
Kester 186 no clean works for me. Flux, whether it's a liquid or pen, is used to help solder flow more easily. When you are done you will have a mess of flux residue. There's some debate over whether you should clean "no clean" flux. I do. I clean the residue with alcohol. There's always some white residue left over. I wouldn't say it's a "huge layer" but it's there. If you leave alcohol on the residue too long before wiping off you will have more white residue.
Rewatched Dan's N64Digital install tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJ5PXZj ... el=PixelFX) and he uses Kester 959T and doesn't even bother to clean it with alcohol afterwards, since it looks like it doesn't leave much of a residue at all. Complete opposite of what I used, don't know if it was maybe illegitimate or not but it might as well have left a layer of white chalk on the PCB I tried it on. I threw it out right away.
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