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 Post subject: ST: Mushihimesama 1.0 Maniac & Ultra Scoring
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 6:47 am 


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Joined: 28 Jun 2018
Posts: 29
Location: Arizona
MY CREDENTIALS!!! :)
ImageImage

1,061,006,564 Maniac (No Autofire)
1,842,732,721 Maniac (Autofire ON, No Glitch Auto)
1,080,775,113 Ultra (Glitch Autofire ON)
33,880,446,268 Arrange (Xbox/Steam)

+ a proud owner of a Mushi PCB!

Hundreds of extra hours on PCB and MAME as well!


> CONTROLS <

  • A Button [Shot]
    Holding this button will focus your options, your movement, and show your hitbox. Tapping this button will result in your shot and options firing for a brief period of time.
    With W-Power, tapping A slowly will result in a short barrage of bullets which finish firing before your options do.
  • B Button [Bomb]
    Image
  • C Button [Full Auto]
    Holding this button will allow for continuous fire, while releasing it will make your shot and options cease firing immediately.
    If you tap the C button for 1~2 frames, you will fire a single bullet.

There is no damage difference between holding A and holding C

Rapid Shot and Rapid Full Auto are simply configurable autofire buttons for A and C respectively. Keep in mind that autofire rates on the Xbox 360 and Steam ports are displayed in frames + 1. Therefore, an autofire rate of Trigger Time 1 Interval 2 = 2 frames on, 3 frames off = 12hz.

If you are on PCB or MAME, you should always use autofire settings that hold your buttons for 2 frames per press. Single frames will cause problems during slowdown such as eating a few of your shot inputs.



> POWERUPS <

In this game you are able to choose one of three shot types to start with, but you may also change your shot type in the middle of a run when you encounter a powerup. To do this, let the circular timer around the item run out. It will force the item to change into to a powerup for the next shot type in the rotation (M>W>S). Your new shot is not technically permanent, however. You will be reverted to the shot you chose at the beginning of the game upon your next death.

Not only does your shot type affect what bullets you fire, but it also affects your movement speed.

  • M-POWER
    Image
    Typically regarded as the worst shot type. It is not as strong as W at point-blank range or as strong as S from a distance. However, for a standard Original or Maniac Mode clear it can still perform perfectly fine if you prefer some aspects of it. Its middle of the road movement speed, moderate spread, and decent damage at long range are very attractive to some players. But, except for in one very specific scenario, M-Power is nearly useless for actual scoring.
  • W-POWER
    Image
    W-Power is usually regarded as the best shot type for scoring (but this is not entirely accurate). Despite its slow movement speed, it deals the highest amount of damage in the game when you get close to an enemy and has an incredibly wide shot spread (albeit low damage) from afar. W-Power was thought to be so good that using it was implied when playing the game seriously.
  • S-POWER
    Image
    This is actually the best shot type for score because of how it can abuse the firing glitch. It has absurd movement speed which makes it well suited for large sweeping macro dodges that can trivialize some specific sections of the game. It also deals more damage than any other shot type from long ranges, but the damage does not scale very much when at point-blank range.

There are also two different option arrangements to choose from: Trace and Formation. You may wait for the circular timer to deplete on these items as well to force them to switch back and forth.

  • TRACE
    Image
    Your options will copy your every move and will center themselves on you when holding the shot button. Trace is typically the most useful for scoring.
  • FORMATION
    Image
    Your options are anchored in a fixed formation around your character: two to the left, two to the right. Holding the shot button focuses them in front of you. Formation makes your options deal higher base damage than that of Trace and is useful for scoring in stage 3 of Maniac Mode.



> SCORING SYSTEM <



ORIGINAL: kill everything and milk tick points



MANIAC & ULTRA

Scoring in Mushihimesama involves two core systems which exist to raise your main counter: chaining and counter banking.

The exact formula for how your counter increases point values is not currently known. It is not simply additive or multiplicative, but all you really need to know is that a higher counter means more points from enemies and amber.

Amber pieces formed by bullet cancels are not affected by your counter.



CHAINING

It is immediately apparent to all players how chaining works at a basic level. Simply damage or kill enemies continuously to raise the counter and prevent it from dropping. However, depending on your shot type, you may have to get creative to minimize your counter loss in various sections of the game. One useful way to prolong your counter from dropping in sections where enemies die too fast is to tap C quickly (12hz is usually the best rate) on mid-large size enemies to damage them as slowly as possible.

Proximity plays an important role in your counter gain, so point-blanking enemies is essential to your ability to maximize your counter while chaining. Enemies are also invincible when they are first appear at the top border of the screen. If you point-blank them during this time, you can maximize the amount of counter you gain from each enemy.

Some large enemies will "stun" the counter for a very short period of time upon destruction to assist in chaining. Select smaller enemies such as the scorpions in stage 2 have this effect as well.

Image

Additionally, the higher your counter is, the faster it will fall when you drop chain. Here's a blogpost by Sinmoon that has a table which details how much your counter decreases each frame: Sinmoon's Blog

Each shot type builds counter at its own speed. The tiers for counter gain are as follows:

  1. S-Power
  2. W-Power
  3. M-Power

Using an exploit called "Supershot," it is possible to increase the power and counter gain of all 3 shot types by holding C while tapping A at different rates. Here's a list of tapping rates to use for each shot type.

  • S-Power
    All combinations of frames for 6hz work well for optimal S-Power Supershot (Rapid Shot - Trigger Time 1 Interval 7 all the way through Trigger Time 7 Interval 1) which makes it rather easy to perform without autofire; just tap 6 times per second! However, when using autofire for S Supershot, the optimal rate may work inconsistently if you hold C then Rapid Shot. To guarantee it will work, press Rapid Shot then C and hold both buttons, but leave a few frames of delay between your two presses. It's not quite plinking since you're leaving more than 1 frame between each press, but it's the same concept. As a side note, it appears to be that the lower the Trigger Time is, the more often it will work when you don't plink (maybe beginning to hold C on an off frame of the A autofire is what makes it work, but I cannot confirm this to be true). A good way to test whether or not your autofire is getting you consistent results is to practice stage 4 and simply hold up and fire until you die. Supershot should get your counter to about 5,500 before your death if it is working correctly.

    If you don't care about being slightly less optimal however (a difference of 4,800 counter and 5,500 counter on the opening of stage 4), you can save the headache and simply use Trigger Time 3 Interval 2 for 8.57hz and complete consistency but not quite as high counter gain.

    Alternatively, you may use an external program such as Xpadder to remap a controller button to your shot key and apply turbo to it. The slight inaccuracies of the external program's timing for button presses actually makes Supershot work more consistently, but you will occasionally get slightly less counter/damage.

    Or, you can forgo autofire and just tap 6 times per second instead of dealing with any of this.

    The increased damage from this shot type's Supershot is effective at any range.
  • W-Power
    For optimal damage, W-Power Supershot should be performed at Trigger Time 1 Interval 2 for 12hz. This can be extremely hard to perform without autofire for many people, however. I've noticed that if you can't mash at 12hz, making a conscious effort to leave as few off frames between your presses as possible typically nets you more consistent damage.

    The increased damage from this shot type's Supershot is only effective at very close range.
  • M-Power
    7.5hz at any combination of frames from Trigger Time 1 Interval 5 through Trigger Time 5 Interval 1 are the best Supershot rates for M-Power, so it's pretty simple to perform without autofire as too. Unlike S-Power however, you will want to plink from C to Rapid Shot and hold both buttons to guarantee it to work.

    You can use Xpadder for a little bit more consistency at the cost of occasional dips in power for this shot type as well.

    The increased damage from this shot type's Supershot is only effective at very close range.



COUNTER BANKING

This system has been overcomplicated for quite some time and is one of the things that has scared many people away from scoring Mushihimesama. I hope to explain it as clearly as possible and I would appreciate any feedback on better ways to articulate myself if it still does not make sense.

Counter banking revolves around the mini counters that your options build on enemies. This system is only useful on midbosses with the exception of some high-health enemies such as the Nana Bushes in stage 2, some tough pieces in stage 3, and the large grasshoppers in stage 4. This mechanic is disabled on bosses.

ImageImageImage

In the image below, the mini counters are the small numbers boxed in red. The large number boxed in black is simply a duplicate of your main counter placed on the enemy for viewing convenience.

Image

Each one of your options builds its own independent mini counter as it damages the enemy. The reason why there are two mini counters in the above image is because, at this point in the run, you are given two options (as seen in the image below) and they are both building a counter independent of each other. If one option were to stop hitting the midboss momentarily, its counter would drop a bit and have a lower number than the others.

Image

Now, it is important to take note of what happens when you stop shooting an enemy. The main counter turns from white to red and begins to drop. Then, when you shoot the midboss again, it returns to white.

Image

When the main counter turns from red to white, the total of your mini counters is added to your main counter. If we are using the above image as an example, every time the counter flickers to white 156 will be added to your main counter (78 + 78 = 156). However, your mini counters will be much higher than this in a run. When I use W-power, I wait for my mini counters to get to around 850 on the stage 2 midboss before I start cashing in which nets me 1,700 counter per flicker (850 + 850 = 1,700). If I do this 10 times per second, that means that I'm gaining nearly 17,000 counter every second. Essentially what this means is that you should hit the midboss with your options until the mini counters are high enough for your liking, then repeatedly damage the midboss, stop, damage the midboss, stop, etc. You may be wondering how you can damage the midboss 10 separate times per second to achieve this result. As you may recall from the first section of this guide, "> CONTROLS <," tapping the C button quickly (optimally holding it for 1~2 frames) will result in you shooting a single bullet. Every time an enemy takes damage, the counter stays white for 4 frames. So, you want to rapidly tap C to hit the midboss with single bullets so that its counter is red, then white for 4 frames, then red, then white for 4 frames, etc. It is easiest to perform this process with 10hz autofire (Rapid Full Auto - Trigger Time 1 Interval 3) on the stage 2 midboss.

If you are wondering how to tell when you should start C tapping for optimal counter gain, a good rule of thumb is to manage your damage to where the midboss is on the verge of changing phases when he times out. You deal more damage while building your mini counters, and less while cashing in on them.

You must perform all of your counter banking on the first phase of each midboss because all of your mini counters disappear when the phase changes. Additionally, you lose a good chunk of your main counter from the phase change explosion because damaging the midboss during the explosion does not keep your counter from dropping for whatever reason.

With W-power, instead of simply holding down A or C on the midboss until you start C tapping, you should be tapping A slowly, but not slow enough to where your options stop firing. This is because you shoot less bullets by slowly tapping A, which will make you do less damage to the midboss, which means you have more time to build your mini counters. Additionally, the gaps between your shots mean you will get a few flickers as you're tapping A as well.

When you boil all this down, counter banking with W-Power is simply tapping A slowly to build your mini counters, then tapping C quickly to cash in on them.

I realize this is a bit difficult to grasp, so here's a video for you to dissect. It will also show you how to keep your chain after the midboss.

Stage 2 Midboss Counter Bank With W-Power

You cannot slow A tap to deal less damage with S-Power and M-Power because these shot types continuously fire. Instead, if you hold the button for a short period of time then release, you will get a similar result to W-Power slow A tapping. Here is a video demonstrating that.

Stage 5 Midboss Counter Bank With S-Power

One thing to pay attention to when counter banking is the actual hitbox of the midboss you are damaging. For example, when the stage 5 midboss has his front legs out, there's a relatively flat surface for you to C tap on.

(hitboxes are entirely approximated and are therefore not accurate)

Image

When he puts his legs away, C tapping with W can become a bit of a problem. You see, because the shot is so wide, the middle of the ring of bullets will hit his head, and the sides will hit his wings shortly after. This causes him to take damage for a slightly longer period of time per C tap. You will either have to slow down your tapping speed to compensate for this increased amount of time the counter stays white, or move to the side of the midboss to bank faster off of the more flat surface of his wings.

Image
Image

10hz and 12hz are typically the most useful autofire rates for C tapping, but sometimes you might have to manually tap slower to compensate for odd scenarios such as the one described above. You can utilize 12hz C tapping the most when at point-blank range on an enemy because your bullets are absorbed as soon as you fire them. Any rate faster than 12hz will not be able to flicker the counter at all.

Although it may not look like your options are firing when you tap C for 1~2 frames, they actually are. You can see on the image below that I am clearly C tapping and my options do not look like they are firing lasers, yet the mini counters are white which indicates the options are damaging the enemy. Because of this you can actually make your mini counters drop a little bit slower by having them touch the enemy that you are C tapping. However, you should keep in mind that this will result in extra damage to your target.

Image

There also exists a glitch with mini counters which seems trigger inconsistently. If your main counter drops to zero, there is a chance that your mini counters will drop to zero as well. I cannot establish any solid reason as to why this happens, but just be wary.



FIRING GLITCH

Welcome to the empty locking of Mushi! (kinda)

As I touched on earlier, this is a very little known glitch that vastly improves the score ceiling of this game and cements S-Power as the best shot type. Because of it, stuff like this is technically possible and it is how the world record of 2.67b was performed. Essentially what it does is it allows you to C tap while firing your lasers at the same time. This makes your damage exponentially lower than what slow A tapping with W-Power allows as well as letting you cash in on your mini counters the entire time you're building them (but cashing in the entire time is only really practical when performing the glitch with autofire buttons). W-Power can perform this glitch as well, but a single bullet from S-Power does much less damage than a single bullet from W-Power. Also, since S-Power's bullets are arranged in a narrow straight line, you don't have to worry as much about the positioning issues caused by W-Power's wide shot which we covered in the hitbox screenshots.

To perform this glitch, all you have to do is plink from C to A. Plinking is a fighting game term which means to push a button 1 frame after another button. To do it once, the frames should ideally look something like this:

Image

It is necessary that there is at least one frame where both C and A are held together as shown above under frame 2. It can be a bit finnicky, but after you successfully plink these inputs you may either let go of A and attempt to repeat the process rapidly, or you may continue to hold A. Doing these inputs rapidly without an autofire macro is nearly impossible however, so it makes much more sense to hold the A button after the plink. You see, holding A after one successful plink produces no bullets for about a half a second before it resumes normal firing. This can be useful for performing the glitch outside of the Glitch Auto category because, if you let go of the A button as soon as it fires the next bullet after the half second delay, you can get two single shots to fire from only one successful plink.

Here's a clip of what that looks like.

Unfortunately, performing the glitch in this way will make you lose most of your current counter at the beginning of midboss fights since the enemy is going to be red for so long. You will still end up with a significantly higher counter by the end of the midboss than if you were not performing the glitch though. Decreasing your damage to let you build the mini counters longer is really that important.

There is quite a bit of nuance to the inputs for the glitch especially when it comes to slowdown (it just stops working during slowdown with autofire by the way), but it's something that you'll get a little bit more used to and will improve with over time.

To perform the glitch with autofire, simply set both Rapid buttons to Trigger Time 1 and whatever matching Intervals you prefer. Then, plink from Rapid Full Auto to Rapid Shot and hold both buttons.



> THE ONLY COOL THING M-POWER CAN DO <

At power level 1, and ONLY at power level 1, tapping A with M-Power produces only two bullets. This means that tapping A quickly produces nearly the same result as the firing glitch. Try using Rapid Shot at Trigger Time 1 Interval 5 and you'll see what I mean.

Image

You can get some ludicrously high counters from this, but it is unlikely for this strategy to be more profitable than using the firing glitch with S-Power. You see, retaining the counter that you gain is rather difficult due to the very low bullet cap at power level 1. You need to be very close to whatever enemy you are shooting to make sure that you don't run out of bullets and drop counter. Also, you will basically only be able to get points after counter banking since your low power level will make normal stage chaining nearly worthless.

I have no idea if this strat could actually be useful or not with enough routing, but I figured it deserved to be mentioned regardless.



> CATEGORY RANT <

As you may have noticed, I have alluded to a "No Glitch Auto" and "Glitch Auto" category. That's because I strongly believe that the categories of this game should be split in three. No Auto, No Glitch Auto, and Glitch Auto. In the above clip and in my 1.43b Maniac PB I perform the glitch inputs manually, so I place these runs in a different category from my 1b Ultra run where the inputs were not manual. This is because the entire meta and all routes change the moment you start using autofire for the glitch due to the possibility of low power strats as seen in my 3b Maniac TAS for the lowest amount of damage possible. Also, a ton of autofire circuits are not even capable of performing the glitch since it requires each button to be held for 2 frames instead of 1. To prevent anyone from comparing their scores to the Glitch Auto WR of 2.67b the moment they use a single autofire button, it is important to make this category distinction.



> STEAM AUTOFIRE MOD <

When I play this game, I typically use 10hz and 12hz C buttons for my autofire. However, the steam port only supports one autofire button each for A and C. Since I can manually tap Supershot or use Xpadder for it, I have no use for my A autofire button. To convert this A autofire button to another highly accurate C autofire button, Olifante created a modification for the game's internal autofire with Cheat Engine.

Here's a quick guide.

If you've done this before and just need to get the file again, here's a direct download.

Mushihimesama Rapid Buttons



> SOURCE(S) <

https://youtu.be/owZreqQpg8s?t=116
https://youtu.be/owZreqQpg8s?t=163
https://youtu.be/owZreqQpg8s?t=289
https://youtu.be/owZreqQpg8s?t=375


Last edited by Kiwi on Tue Nov 17, 2020 11:06 am, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: ST: Mushihimesama 1.0 Maniac & Ultra Scoring
PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 6:47 am 


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Joined: 28 Jun 2018
Posts: 29
Location: Arizona
[Reserved for potential strat section]

For now, here are the superplay videos for Original, Maniac, and Ultra so you can see some W-Power strats.

Original
Maniac
Ultra

I got a pretty good run of 1.84b with S-Power that you can see here. This should be a good video to learn and copy strats from. I used Xpadder for S Supershot and Cheat Engine to have a 12hz and 10hz C button.

Maniac S-Power (No Glitch Auto)


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