DDP3 Black Label... Clarification

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:10 am

Above is a the battery circuit used on CAVE PGM PCB's.

For DaiOuJou & DaiOuJou Black Label the resistor value is R6 but for Ketsui & Espgaluda it is R11.

Thanks to Kold666 & MKL we finally know the purpose of the SW1 switch
on the PGM PCB. It's purpose is to reset the NVRAM by forcing the VCC
pin on the NVRAM to ground!

This means that if you toggle the switch on a DaiOiJou Black Label you
will erase the magic id stored there and the board will show "ROM ERROR".
This might be the reason for the elaborate blue metal case and seal.

Kold666 & MKL have also devised a method of replacing the rechargable
3V6 NiMh battery with a normal non chargeable 3V6 Li-Ion battery by
disabling the charging circuitry.

There are two options:
. Remove diode D2, this will cause the battery to only power the NVRAM.
. Remove SMD resistor R6, this will allow the +5V to power the NVRAM when the PCB is powered, thereby increasing the length of the battery life. This mod is complicated because of the tiny SMD.

Both these battery changes have to be done while the PCB is powered!

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:42 am

rtw wrote:I managed to perform the dry run on my normal Dai-Ou-Jou today with succes

First I entered the setup menu and changed all parameters
so that I could verify that the NVRAM was not cleared.

Then I laid out my tools:

. Soldering iron
. Solder
. Desoldering pump
. Desoldering wick
. Wire cutters
. A freshly charged VARTA battery

I powered up the PCB and laid it gently on a chair. Then I
wiggled the JAMMA connector to verify a good connection.

Then I started the procedure:

. Snip of the existing battery
. Using the soldering iron and tweezers I removed the remaining battery legs.
. Cleaned away as much solder as I could using the solder wick.
. At this point I turned the PCB to vertical position.
. Then I started heating the battery pad from the solder side while using the desoldering pump on the other side.
. After a few tries I managed to remove all the solder and open the holes.
. Then I put the new battery in making sure that the polarity was correct.
. After that all I had to do was solder the new battery in place.

Note:
Make sure that the tip of your soldering iron is not connected to earth!

Next up is the Black Label

you make it sound so simple rtw, i think i may give this a shot myself.

but what is meant by "soldering iron not connected to earth"?

sorry, you know my electrical skills....

also, the battery i showed you from cpc, if it has two pins on one side, and one pin on the other, is it possible to bend one (of the two) pins into the correct position, and bend the other out of the way (and possibly put electrical tape around it so it doesn't touch any other components)? i'd like to use cpc if possible as i already have an account with them

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:38 am

"Earth" is the European and Japanese term for "Ground".

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:31 am

jpj wrote:you make it sound so simple rtw, i think i may give this a shot myself.

but what is meant by "soldering iron not connected to earth"?

sorry, you know my electrical skills....

also, the battery i showed you from cpc, if it has two pins on one side, and one pin on the other, is it possible to bend one (of the two) pins into the correct position, and bend the other out of the way (and possibly put electrical tape around it so it doesn't touch any other components)? i'd like to use cpc if possible as i already have an account with them

If the tip of your soldering iron is connected to earth/ground you stand
the chance of a discharge. Therefore it's best to snip away the battery
before you remove the pins from the PCB.

I would make an effort to get a battery with 2 pins. You are going to be
working on a live circuit and the last thing you want, is to worry about
a battery alignment issue.

SuperPang got hold of a few a little while ago, why don't you ask him where he got them ?

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:24 pm

thanks guys, and i have enquired with mr. pang

and i'll buy better tools in the meanwhile

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:06 pm

jpj wrote:i have enquired with mr. pang

failing that, how do you feel about these ones rtw:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 379#header

product 422-387 (the one with 2 pins)

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:15 pm

jpj wrote:failing that, how do you feel about these ones rtw:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 379#header

product 422-387 (the one with 2 pins)

422-387 has only got 15mAh...

rtw

edit: Added jpj's own observation!

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:03 am

hold the phone, i just clicked on the link for 422-387:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/422387.html#header

and it says the capacity for that one is only 15mAh...

edit: found this one as well, but can't tell if it's two pin or not (looks very similar to the cpc one to be honest..)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 843#header

double edit: fuck. just checked through the pdf file and it's almost certainly 1 pin on one side, and 2 on the other..

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:14 am

jpj wrote:edit: found this one as well, but can't tell if it's two pin or not (looks very similar to the cpc one to be honest..)
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 843#header

It's a 3 pin instead of a 2

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:18 am

ah you beat me to it.

i guess a 15mAh is no good

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:23 am

This is the correct one...

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.asp ... 5608303012

Maybe some American individual can buy a few and send them to
you or ask mouser if they know of a source in Europe ?

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:27 am

i'm a bit confused again now, because that one from mouser is 1.2V. is that not too weak?

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:35 am

jpj wrote:i'm a bit confused again now, because that one from mouser is 1.2V. is that not too weak?

It consists of 3 * 1.2V cells making it 3.6V in total. That's why the battery is
called: 3V80H. It's actually 3 cell batteries each with 1.2V in a plastic
wrapper.

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:37 am

ah thank you very much for the clarification

LARGE KRO · Post by **LARGE KRO** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:02 am

Hi JPJ,

I ordered a few Varta for me when I needed to change them on my DOJ and my PGM slot, same model as original, I still have one left brand new if you want.

LARGE KRO · Post by **LARGE KRO** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:03 pm

I managed to find to find the link of the supplier based in Europe, they only accepted bank transfer and 5 pieces as minimum order.

http://www.elektronik.ropla.eu/en/magazyn/magazyn/

check for the rechargable Ni-MH cell VARTA 3V80H VMB0022
Hope this helps

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:53 pm

Hey "LARGE KRO" did you finally get your PCB fixed with CAVE ? If so how much did it cost ?

rtw

LARGE KRO · Post by **LARGE KRO** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:18 pm

Hi rtw

I had it fixed by Cave for the resurrection, it costed me something like 22000 yen, MAK comission inclued.
Such a pitty that the board died a second time and nothing to do with the battery here... One day I powered up the game and the board loosed the its video syncro. I sent it back a second time and they have not been able to fix it. Anyhow, truth or not it got me so bothered that I did not give a damn anymore about the board

Classic DOJ is far enough challenge for me, just feel sorry that I lost a great game and a lot of money in the story

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:25 pm

salut KRO,

sorry to hear about your board

thanks for the useful information though

jpj wrote:i have enquired with mr. pang

...

cheers again rtw. you're a diamond geezer

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:20 pm

That's the worst PCB story I've ever heard.

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:31 pm

GaijinPunch wrote:That's the worst PCB story I've ever heard.

I agree with GP, surely it can't be that hard to fix. All they need to do is source a white label and work their magic on it! If I were you I would
contact them and get your PCB back. If they say it is not fixed ask them to send you the PCB anyway.

rtw

PC Engine Fan X! · Post by **PC Engine Fan X!** » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:32 pm

LARGE KRO wrote:Hi rtw

I had it fixed by Cave for the resurrection, it costed me something like 22000 yen, MAK comission inclued.
Such a pitty that the board died a second time and nothing to do with the battery here... One day I powered up the game and the board loosed the its video syncro. I sent it back a second time and they have not been able to fix it. Anyhow, truth or not it got me so bothered that I did not give a damn anymore about the board
Classic DOJ is far enough challenge for me, just feel sorry that I lost a great game and a lot of money in the story

For LARGE KRO,

Sorry to hear about your DDP-DOJ BL PCB going down the drain. And will Cave replace your dead DDP-DOJ BL PCB with another 100% working one or not?

Do you have a regular DDP-DOJ PCB to tide you over for those times when you wish to play it as it was meant to be? A plain DDP-DOJ PCB is enough for me. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:47 pm

okay, so i did the battery swap on espgaluda. burnt my hand some, and the store didn't have any desoldering pumps, so it was a bit more awkward than it had to be.

i was thinking about doing a "dry run" like you on my ketsui next. but thinking of the value if i make a mistake, i wont take the chance

LARGE KRO · Post by **LARGE KRO** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:55 pm

Yes, I asked for the PCB to be sent back, hope it will soon

If I only could get back the metal case I will consider it cool regarding how things have turned for my game.

A plain DDP-DOJ PCB is enough for me

Same for me. I've tracked a regular DOJ to ease the pain and I realise I got enough work with this one

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:58 pm

okay, ketsui done (non-live).

i don't know if it was a battery leak or not, but there was some crystal-ish gunk near one of the solder points for the battery.

regarding the doj black label.. if i snip the battery (after powering it up via the jamma connector), do i stil have to worry about my soldering iron being connected to earth? i'm pretty sure you can't buy them in the UK not earthed (for obvious reasons). if i do have to worry about it, i gather i can open the plug for the soldering iron, and simply disconnect the green/yellow wire?

overall, i feel quite comfortable with the procedure. but it's not a board you wanna fuck up (i am not as brave as you rtw

). maybe i should just wimp out and pay for your battery service

(espgaluda and ketsui are being power-cycled at the moment, as i gather the batteries have little charge in them when delivered?)

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:01 pm

jpj wrote:regarding the doj black label.. if i snip the battery (after powering it up via the jamma connector), do i stil have to worry about my soldering iron being connected to earth? i'm pretty sure you can't buy them in the UK not earthed (for obvious reasons). if i do have to worry about it, i gather i can open the plug for the soldering iron, and simply disconnect the green/yellow wire?

You have to snip the battery first.

Take your multimeter and measure if the tip of the iron is connected to
earth. I.e. the top prong of your UK plug (green/yellow). If it is I would
disconnect it for this session. If you don't have a multimeter... likewise

If you disconnect it make sure it does not touch neutral or live!

Good luck!

rtw

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:14 pm

snip the battery before powering up the pcb..?

you guess correctly that i don't have a multimeter

i'll ask my friend tomorrow, who will also be giving me a desoldering pump.

rtw wrote:Good luck!

thanks

i'll probably have a go at it on the weekend, so i can have somone help me

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 9:12 pm

success

jpj · Post by **jpj** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:50 pm

great advice as always

rtw · Post by **rtw** » Mon Feb 09, 2009 6:41 pm

jpj wrote:great advice as always

Glad to see you got it sorted, and glad to help!

Now where can I submit that score

rtw