



I think once you start seeing those fuzzies developing around the terminals, is probably a good time to remove/replace. As mentioned in several other threads, there really is no need for the battery if you play on full defaults, unless of course you have a black label. I'm leaving the battery out of my DOJ and will probably do the same for Espgaluda and Ketsui as soon as they start showing the fuzzies.charlie chong wrote:any signs to look for when these batteries are on there way out?? i'd hate to spew acid on my board.also how often should they be changed do you reckon?
ta!
RegalSin wrote:Videogames took my life away like the Natives during colonial times.



Thankscools wrote:Just flux residue. Nothing to worry about, easy to clean off.
credit button ftwSuperPang wrote:I've become far more fussy about a working coin mech since these batteries started dying
blue taito ashtray filled with quarters ftw!jonny5 wrote:credit button ftwSuperPang wrote:I've become far more fussy about a working coin mech since these batteries started dying
i have a couple hundred tokens.....button is easierDave_K. wrote:blue taito ashtray filled with quarters ftw!jonny5 wrote:credit button ftwSuperPang wrote:I've become far more fussy about a working coin mech since these batteries started dying
Not to stray too far off topic (jonny5 stylejonny5 wrote: i have a couple hundred tokens.....button is easier
and none of my cabs have coin mechs.....i had them rigged up so you could use coins but it missed sometimes so to avoid hassles when i had guests i went with buttons.....i havent modified anything....i just have the leads coming from the credit button and have it pushed into the QD's for the coin register
does the job
although i tend to put everything on freeplay if possible
You forgot the ^_~Dave_K. wrote: Some people also like to play PCBs on their TV with supergun and neogeo joypads because its easier. Since I own an actual cabinet, I like to keep the experience as original as possible and use coins. I've had plenty of people over my place at shmupmeets for the past 5+ years and had the occasional coin jam but its never been a problem. Learning to tweak a chute and coinmech is a fine art worthy of any collectors time. Hearing the mechanical plunk combined with the game's coin-up sound is music to my ears. Playing on freeplay or hitting a credit button 10 times before starting a game diminishes the experience and value each credit holds...this comes from my opinion of over 10 years in the hobby.
you call me out for going OT, and then proceed to type a paragraph of even more OT?Dave_K. wrote:Not to stray too far off topic (jonny5 stylejonny5 wrote: i have a couple hundred tokens.....button is easier
and none of my cabs have coin mechs.....i had them rigged up so you could use coins but it missed sometimes so to avoid hassles when i had guests i went with buttons.....i havent modified anything....i just have the leads coming from the credit button and have it pushed into the QD's for the coin register
does the job
although i tend to put everything on freeplay if possible) but to each his own. Some people also like to play PCBs on their TV with supergun and neogeo joypads because its easier. Since I own an actual cabinet, I like to keep the experience as original as possible and use coins. I've had plenty of people over my place at shmupmeets for the past 5+ years and had the occasional coin jam but its never been a problem. Learning to tweak a chute and coinmech is a fine art worthy of any collectors time. Hearing the mechanical plunk combined with the game's coin-up sound is music to my ears. Playing on freeplay or hitting a credit button 10 times before starting a game diminishes the experience and value each credit holds...this comes from my opinion of over 10 years in the hobby.
LOL! Check the av pic!SuperPang wrote:You forgot the ^_~
The runoff is not going to eat through your skin if thats your concern, but should be cleaned off the board as it will continue to corrode connections even after you remove the bad battery. As humorously mentioned by Ed up at the top, vinegar + baking soda does a good job at neutralizing the acid. Also a small wire brush to clean out and corrosion under the resistor pack if needed.Ganelon wrote:Is the runoff material safe to touch? Better not to be safe?
Is there a list of all the boards that have batteries (besides the known suicide ones)? Or would it be shorter to have a list of boards that don't have batteries?
Not avoid but keep an eye on. Don't some games use batteries to save (as opposed to EEPROM) and wouldn't they be at risk to leakage?Dave_K. wrote:I don't understand your second question, its not like you need to avoid PCBs that have batteries, just need to keep an eye on them. The ones of most concern are the suicide PCBs like any CPS2 (and CPS1?), and DOJ Black Label.
you want a piece too PCEFX?PC Engine Fan X! wrote:The Atari Games Klax PCB is known to save game settings and high scores without the need for a backup battery. ^_~
The little banter going on between Dave K. and jonny5 is priceless. I was cracking up reading it. This shmups forum is truly the greatest. ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Muhahahahahahahahhaahaaaaaaaaaaaah!PC Engine Fan X! wrote:The little banter going on between Dave K. and jonny5 is priceless. I was cracking up reading it. This shmups forum is truly the greatest. ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.