Hey, I'm about to attempt the mod on a kv-20m42 that I got for free
1. It's too late for this, but I would not have lifted any legs of the jungle. It's much easier to remove C316-318 and R316 from the board, and then replace those components on a breakout board.
2. Yes, you need to isolate blanking. Connect pin 30 (or the pad under R316 facing pin 30 if it's in good shape after removing the resistor) to the replacement resistor on your board, and connect the other side of R316 (look for a nice and easy through-hole component to solder to, previous to R316) to the OSD mode of your 4PDT switch.
3. My preference is to use a SCART connector. Your consoles will have SCART output, so if you use anything other than SCART, you'll just need to build an adapter anyway. The nice thing about SCART is you connect RGBS and stereo sound in one plug.
4. Your caps should ideally be .01uf (10nf) to match what you're removing from the Sony board, but in my testing it doesn't make a visible difference so far.
5. Your caps need to be in line with RGB after the switch, because they are necessary for both OSD and external RGB.
6. The tuner 5V is probably fine but I have always used power from the VCC on the jungle (with the same 100 ohm resistor used on the OSD) and it's always worked out fine for me. You may find grabbing the power is easy from under C373, C374, or L301. I do not suggest relying on SCART power to feed the blanking circuit, although I will admit I haven't experimented with it, I just expect spotty results.
7. Similarly, there's much easier places to solder to ground than pin 40.
8. You don't need to worry about polarity on ceramic caps. If you happen to use electrolytics the cathode faces the TV and your game console is high.
9. If the TV has luma I put the sync into luma. You will also need to pull the s-video leg low to enable S-video mode (R269). As I commented above, I wire the sync into the point where the connector enters the TV and then the needed caps and resistors for the sync input are already there.
10. Ground is ground, as long as you get that 75 ohms to ground somewhere between the SCART and the switch, you're good.
thanks for the really detailed response!
1. any reason to not lift the legs besides not wanting to break them? they seemed pretty sturdy and I was hesitant to remove the smd components.
2. i'm assuming you mean pin 29? 30 is blue, 29 is blanking(I just want to be sure i'm not missing something).
3. I've already got ports/custom cables for dsub 15 connectors as well as tons of them lying around, which is why I'm using them. I was just planning on running audio into the same port set I pulled composite from, which I'm assuming will work because you need to be on the matching input for sync if I'm understanding correctly.
5. I wouldn't need inline caps if I'm pulling from the solder pads above 30-32 with the caps still in them would I? since I lifted they're still there, I'd just need the caps inline from the console?
6. so you just added a 100 ohm resistor between vcc and the switch pin? If so that seems pretty easy and I'll try that.
7. I'll probably look around for a better ground point or just grab from the comp vid rca jack since I'll be trying that first for sync I think.
9. No luma on this set, just 2 sets of comp vid and mono audio.
I'm waiting a few days for a new soldering station to come in so I just want to have a good plan/all my ducks in a row before I go about doing anything more. thanks again guys