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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 5:11 pm 


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Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 86
GeneraLight wrote:
Even a Class 10 100MB/s SDHC Card?

You're limited by bus speed.
GeneraLight wrote:
I heard USB have shorter lifespans than SD and aren't as reliable.

Nice joke.
GeneraLight wrote:
I didn't know the GameCube had USB ports.

I assumed you were talking about the Wii, but you can use a WODE on GameCube. Neither the WKF or WODE support audio streaming though. SD Gecko is still experimental.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 5:40 pm 



Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 762
Location: Ohio
Thank you


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:56 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 20
Was looking at a Genesis 2 scart cable I just got in, and noticed the left channel pin from scart was wired to pin 6 on the genesis connector - mono audio. The right channel was connected correctly, but wouldn't this be an issue? If it's not, any idea why they did it this way instead of using the correct pin on the genesis connector - 8?

Edit: Talked to the seller, looks like it was wired incorrectly, glad I'm not going crazy!


Last edited by RottenToTheGore on Wed Jul 05, 2017 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 10:32 pm 



Joined: 05 Mar 2017
Posts: 61
I have an Extron Rxi 201 and I can't get the H-shift to work. As long as ADSP is enabled, V-shift works fine for me, but when I turn the H-shift knob I get no change in signal. Am I missing something obvious or is there something wrong with my unit or setup (it is connected to a Sony 1954Q PVM)? Thanks for your help!

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 11:44 pm 


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Joined: 11 May 2015
Posts: 437
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thats interesting strygo, I might have confused DDSP and ADSP. BuckoA51 has a post on his videogame perfection site about it

Quote:
Sync processing – This is the feature that originally got people interested in the Extron units. The Extron RGB interfaces include various sync processing features. All of the Extron units have a switch that toggles between ADSP and DDSP. ADSP stands for “Advanced Digital Sync Processing” and DDSP stands for “Digital Display Sync Processing”. ADSP not only improves compatibility with some displays, but on certain Extron units it allows the picture to be manually centred, both horizontally and vertically. Unfortunately ADSP doesn’t work with all display equipment (ADSP has poor compatibility with the DVDO Edge, for instance), so DDSP mode is included as a fall-back.


has your horizontal knob ever worked? what type of display are you useing it on? and what signal/resolution are you outputting?


Last edited by Blair on Sun Jul 02, 2017 1:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:47 am 



Joined: 05 Mar 2017
Posts: 61
The knobs are disabled when DDSP is enabled. I observe this and the documentation matches that:

Quote:
DDSP disables the interface's vertical and horizontal centering controls. If DIP switch 1 (DDSP) is set to On and either centering control is rotated, the LCD displays N/A DDSP ON.


When in ADSP mode, only the vertical knob works for me. The horizontal one doesn't show any error message, but it also has no effect. This is what I can't figure out.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 1:15 am 


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(deleted accidental double post)


Last edited by Blair on Sun Jul 02, 2017 1:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 1:34 am 


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I have some questions about the RCA audio output on the back of SEGA CD model 2 systems.

I have a SEGA CD 2 with a Genesis Model 2 and 32X. I've heard that when a model 2 Genesis is connected to a Sega CD 2 the audio output from from the RCA ports on the SCD2 unit is cleaner because the model 2's have the pre-amplified audio signals connected to the expansion bay pinout. is this true? and would I get better audio quality this way instead of using the signal coming out of the 32X's a/v port with the RGB scart connector?

(see image for details)
Spoiler: show
Image


Last edited by Blair on Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:18 am 


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Blair wrote:
I have some questions about the RCA audio output on the back of SEGA CD model 2 systems.

I have a SEGA CD 2 with a Genesis Model 2 and 32X. I've heard that when a model 2 Genesis is connected to a Sega CD 2 the audio out from from the RCA audio out from the SCD2 unit is cleaner because the model 2's have the pre-amplified audio signals connected to the expansion bay pinout. is this true? and would I get better audio quality this way instead of using the signal coming out of the 32X's a/v port with the RGB scart connector?

(see image for details)
Spoiler: show
Image


You might lose audio for 32X games, but I'd assume Genesis games will work fine.

I have the same setup minus a 32X, and the audio output from the Sega CD RCA jacks is indeed less fuzzy/crackly.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:39 am 


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thanks for the input bobrocks95, i'll have to give it a try this week.

*edit*

Just tried it out, and it does make quite a difference in sound quality. Out of the A/V port's the sound is a bit muffled and some effects just blend together. But form the SCD2 RCA ports the sound is much cleaner and has good separation. I'm Surprised that with all the talk about Mega drive/Genesis audio quality This isn't mentioned more.

I'm assuming this is because the internal amp on my GEN2 is one of the bad ones and this allows me to bypass thst. So someone with a better Genesis revision might not see as much improvement.

*edit2*

So I just tested some 32X games with this configuration and all the sound seems to be working great.


Last edited by Blair on Tue Jul 04, 2017 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 5:50 pm 



Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 39
I ve read here https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2057197454 that someone used rubbery magnetic strips to fix geometry on CRT screen.
Has anyone else tried this method ? Is it alright to use those on crt ?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:25 pm 


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I duct taped some magnet strips to the tube of my PVM to fix a discolouration/distortion issue in the top right corner. It completely fixed both at the expense of a small amount of sharpness (which is a small price to pay).


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:34 pm 



Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 39
Cool :D


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 12:31 am 



Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 762
Location: Ohio
When is Sandisk coming out with a 512GB micro SDHX Card? Want to get one for my N3DS.

Are there any quality 512GB micro SDHX Cards on the market?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:15 am 


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There are no 512GB MicroSD cards on the market of any quality. None of the real manufacturers have announced anything.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 12:53 pm 



Joined: 09 Apr 2012
Posts: 1928
GeneraLight wrote:
When is Sandisk coming out with a 512GB micro SDHX Card? Want to get one for my N3DS.

Are there any quality 512GB micro SDHX Cards on the market?

How are you planning to fill a 512GB card on a N3DS?

Besides the fact that there aren't 512GB worth of decent 3DS games, current homebrew methods makes you install the game first, a process which for me goes at 1MB/s regardless of the speed of the SD card I use.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:48 pm 



Joined: 07 Apr 2016
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Location: Ohio
ZellSF wrote:
GeneraLight wrote:
When is Sandisk coming out with a 512GB micro SDHX Card? Want to get one for my N3DS.

Are there any quality 512GB micro SDHX Cards on the market?

How are you planning to fill a 512GB card on a N3DS?

Besides the fact that there aren't 512GB worth of decent 3DS games, current homebrew methods makes you install the game first, a process which for me goes at 1MB/s regardless of the speed of the SD card I use.

The entire DS + 3DS library probably doesn't even add up 512GB. I just want to put every 3DS game on it + a bunch of ROM hacks, GBA games, SNES VC, etc. so I don't have to swap out cartridges. And yeah, you're right. Installation through Homebrew methods is incredibly slow.

I just want it so I can put everything I want on it and still have a very comfortable amount of space left. Also the 95MB/s read and write speed compared to my current 30MB/s read and write speed.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 3:01 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 20
Didn't get any replies on reddit so I'll post here too -

Any difference between csync and stripped sync?

Waiting on the parts to add the RGB amp to a SNES Mini, when I noticed the scart cable I have is wired for sync from composite. I have everything to make a sync stripper so it's not a big issue for me, but it got me wondering if there's any difference between the two.

I also saw that regarding the SNES Mini, on RetroRGB - "All RGB SCART cables that use csync should have a 330-450 ohm resistor on the csync line. Simply adding one to the SCART head is fine" Would that mean that after I used the sync stripper, I would have to add this resistor as well?

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 3:22 pm 



Joined: 07 Apr 2016
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RottenToTheGore wrote:
Didn't get any replies on reddit so I'll post here too -

Any difference between csync and stripped sync?

Waiting on the parts to add the RGB amp to a SNES Mini, when I noticed the scart cable I have is wired for sync from composite. I have everything to make a sync stripper so it's not a big issue for me, but it got me wondering if there's any difference between the two.

I also saw that regarding the SNES Mini, on RetroRGB - "All RGB SCART cables that use csync should have a 330-450 ohm resistor on the csync line. Simply adding one to the SCART head is fine" Would that mean that after I used the sync stripper, I would have to add this resistor as well?

Thanks!

According to RetroRGB, they should be the same. If the sync is stripped at the source, that is.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 3:54 pm 


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The sync stripper isn't necessarily any better at extracting the sync from the composite video signal than the display device is.

There are only two reasons to want/use csync. First is compatibility, where you have a display device that only supports csync. Extron devices are an example of this, they often require pure csync. Second is quality, where you want to avoid having interference caused by the use of composite video sync.

One big problem is that sync strippers are normally put in the SCART head, which is at the end of the cable. When you're just looking for csync for compatibility reasons, that's fine. But from a quality standpoint, it's a problem.

The reason why composite video sync causes quality problems is because the composite video signal running down the sync wire can couple with the video lines going down the same cable. This is called crosstalk, where a signal going down one wire causes interference in another wire nearby. Over time, people have sort of equated this to "composite video sync = interference, csync = clean, so composite video sync bad", but this is an oversimplification that leads to a faulty assumption: that putting a sync stripper at the display end of the cable helps at all with that.

The problem there is, if you strip the sync *after* the signals have gone down the cable, the damage is already done. The composite video signal went down the cable, coupled with your RGB lines causing interference, and then you stripped the sync off. You end up with a "csync" cable that still has interference! It's also worth noting that it's the chroma burst (colour signal) part of the composite video signal that causes the interference, which is why you don't see this problem with luma sync despite a luma sync signal being so similar to composite sync with the only difference being the luma sync signal has no chroma burst.

There are two workarounds to this: strip sync before going down the cable, or use individually shielded (or coax) cables. Stripping sync at the start is tricky because there is very little room in the console plug end of the cable, so you almost need to do that inside the console before it gets to the output port. The other solution of extra shielding works, but results in thicker/stiffer and more expensive cables, but it's still a viable solution.

So, back to your situation: the SNES Mini. You're adding in an RGB amp (hopefully Voultar's RGB bypass board, it's great), which means you've got csync already at the console. What you really ought to be doing is to use the csync off the console. If you can modify the console end of the cable for that, great, otherwise you should probably just get a new cable. The only scenario where you should be putting a sync stripper in there is if you're using a device that absoluetely requires csync.

For the resistor, I'm speculating here because I'm no expert, but I believe you only need to do that if you have TTL sync going down the cable. That is, if the csync signal is already properly attenuated 75ohm, you don't need it. If you can modify the console end of the cable to connect to csync, and you're using voultar's board, then it has a solder bridge that you can leave disconnected to have it output 75 ohm csync.

If you're using a sync stripper, I guess it depends on which one, but the LM1881 datasheet (http://www.ti.com/product/LM1881/datash ... NLS3848426) seems to list 0.2 to 0.8 volts, which seems to indicate it's not TTL and therefore does not need the resistors... Somebody who is more savvy on this sort of detail could correct me if I'm wrong?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:52 pm 



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Lots of great info, thanks!

I'm setting up a crosspoint, so yeah, I'd need that csync. It's really easy to get into the connector on an official SNES cable, I'll have to see if the one I ordered is just as easy, then maybe I can just switch the pin over to sync, which I think is pin 3. I'll double check.

I'm not using Voultar's board, but the one by Yoshi Console Mods, ordered on Console5 https://console5.com/store/nintendo-mul ... o-kit.html I'm still trying to wrap my head around the TTL sync and all of that, I need to sit down and figure out what I need to do for each console.

I made the mistake of ordering what's probably way too thick coax cable to use with a female scart plug, though I'm going to try and use it somehow. I'll see what it's like when it arrives.

Thanks again!


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:53 am 



Joined: 12 Nov 2016
Posts: 39
I ve heard many people praising the de-interlace option of B&O MX series TVs but personally I think it's useless because the image feels like is shaking. Is it just me ? Does it have something to do with V.Hold adjustment ? (note: image is not shaking when playing 240p games)
Also I ve seen some youtube videos where they were adjusting geometry on a Toshiba TV. They did something and they activated 1 centered horizontal line and 1 centered vertical line. Is that possible on B&O TVs also ?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 1:10 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
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I've been looking at ways to strip sync on the console side for some systems, but how do you output it? You can't just connect it to one of the multiout pins without disconnecting the original signal right?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 4:48 pm 


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RottenToTheGore wrote:
I've been looking at ways to strip sync on the console side for some systems, but how do you output it? You can't just connect it to one of the multiout pins without disconnecting the original signal right?


Depends on the console, but for example the PS1 requires that you break a trace to the multiout, and then run c-sync to the "empty" pin.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 2:22 am 



Joined: 11 Dec 2014
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I just noticed this today. But my CRT looks sharper near the screen edges (or rather too sharp maybe? I like the way it looks at the center a bit more. It looks cleaner). Anyone ever notice this?

Would a focus adjustment at the back do anything? (Convergence maybe? or ?)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:35 pm 



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Posts: 20
Glad this topic is here, all of these little questions would make way too many topics.

Anyways, so I read what viletim posted about attenuating TTL to 75ohm sync, and what resistors/capacitors to add on the console end. But I was wondering, could I just add them to the pins on the systems multiout on the board? http://www.mastersystem.dk/modding/rgb/ ... _fix_1.JPG

Ignore the markings, just wanted the picture. But it would be in the area where it says pin 1.

So could you just add the components right there? With both legs of the resistor/capacitor connecting to the sync pin?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 8:34 pm 



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Fudoh wrote:
BNC to male scart (e.g. from Extron to display or processor): sync on pin 20
BNC to female scart (e.g. as an adapter with a Scart/Scart cable plugged into it): sync on pin 19
Male Scart to BNC (e.g. from a Scart switch to an Extron crosspoint): sync on pin 19
Female Scart to BNC (as used by Magicalbottle): sync on pin 20.


I'm going to re-solder my WookieWin female SCART to BNC cable tonight. That's usually connected to the cable out of my console, to the INPUT side of my Extron Crosspoint, or the input of my Sony PVM monitor.

If I want to use that same cable on the OUTPUT side of my Extron Crosspoint, so I can run it to a Shinybow SCART to Component converter (which then runs to my TV with component), which wire for sync should I move (from what pin to what pin)?

I think I want to more the sync wire from pin 20 to pin 19 (I'm assuming there's nothing already soldered onto pin 19, right?), but all this input/output confuses me to be honest. My Sync is messed up on my Shinybow SB-2840 RGB SCART to Component converter and I'm pretty sure this is what's causing the issue.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:35 am 



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What causes jailbars on an N64?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 6:30 am 


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I know some people successfully run 480p RGSB from component sources through their gscartsw switcher. How would I go about testing that with mine switcher? Something like this cable?
Will say the PS2 output YpBpR happily over its RGB cable or I need to switch to component cables?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:10 am 


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Quote:
Will say the PS2 output YpBpR happily over its RGB cable

yes, this works fine.


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