shmups.system11.org

^ i don't think the rating of the buttons matters, i doubt the board would put out 5 amps to a button - but probably better get confirmation from someone who knows for definite first...

also why would a button be rated AC? (that's probably a silly question but it just seems odd to me)

Ok, I guess I will try those switches and see if they can hold the amps.

Got another electrical question. In electrical world, what does "COM" stand for? Is it just a ground? I am looking at the pinout of my power supply...



Thanks,
Gamester

Yup.

Ok, cool. Wonder why there is 2 grounds.

Thanks Fire-bug.

There are usually more than one thing that needs to be grounded. Its just handy to have.

Hi guys, new to the forum. Lots of good info around here.

As for the 360 and PS3 support in your joystick, you would have some options getting dual compatibility with Toodles' Unviversal PCB.

You could Piggyback 360 support, have PS3 support on the Universal, and for something like an MVS supergun you can use the Neo Geo support on the Universal board.

It would take a decent amount of modding and work on your stick, but technically you could have a stick that supports PS3, 360, and plenty of older systems.

As long as you had it set up where only one system was plugged into the board at one time it should work fine.

This is actually what I'm doing with a cabinet project I'm working on right now.

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=131230

Hmm... I've got another borderline stupid question - I want to play both horizontal and vertical games... so, is it possible to get the Supergun to flip games, or do I need to find another solution to that problem?

Other solution: which is limited to flipping your TV on it's side.

turning the tv thats the only way.
ive made a fair few superguns and neaver found a way to do that but would be well handy.

you dont need any thing like that for the coin buttons to work, they work just like the normal buttons 1 ground wire and the coin 1 wire thtas all you need any momentary push will work fine.

I got a little issue with my supergun and Death Smiles. When I hook it up to the TV some part of edges seem to disappear. This is especially disturbing at the upper part of the screen since I can't see the whole score.

Anyone got an idea?

Its not the supergun dude, its the TV. This happens on numerous 240ac TV's with numerous NTSC based games. On an arcade monitor, you can adjust so all is visible. At the beginning of this thread, there are some guides on how to access hidden menus on cetain TV's where this can be configured.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I just posted in this thread since it was a supergun related question.

Stupid of me not to check the first page of the thread, gonna check out that service menu thing!

>>> Hey Fire-bug, I want to buy a Supergun, but Im a noobie,so I dont know exactly what I need.
I do know I want it to play the old PCB's like Raiden, Twin Cobra, FireShark etc.
Can i hook it up to a CRT TV or will it cut off the view of the games ?

or should I just buy an arcade cabinet to play PCB games ?

hello all
just got a supergun and a neogeo mvs mobo mv-1b.
Hooked it up to my samsung tv with samurai showdown 4
i can hear the neogeo come on and the game working but the screen is bright white no picture.
any suggestions
really want to play even sold some stuff just to get a game
will try on another tv soon
thanks acidburn


Well just tryed on downstairs tv i can see pictue faintly but its like really dark no colour tryed brightness on tv didnt work.tryed the rgb dials too but still no colour :/

Pardon my questions, which show my obvious ignorance in the field...

... But the most vexing part of this whole supergun building project to me is wiring the power supply.

I have an external power supply, and am unsure what jamma leads I solder to my on/off, and what I solder from the on/off to the DIN.

Do I solder all four +5 leads from the harness to the on/off... ? Just one? Which one? Same goes for the on/off to the DIN.

Also, what about the encoder, and controller ports/LED that need +5? If all four +5 leads go to the on/off, how do I wire power to these items?

Sorry for my incredibly basic questions. This whole project is a learning experience. I'm sure I'll be back with tons of questions as I go...

Nick

Hey guys, question for those who are big on TATEing their monitors.

I've got a big CRT monitor (32 inch) that is perfect for my verts TATE-ed but it is a heavy bastard.

I was thinking some kind of floating mount that it could sit in would solve this problem handily, but my searching hasnt turned up much besides wall mounts.

I would really hate to go LCD, I dont like the way stuff displays on it comparatively.

Do you guys have any advice?

Thanks for any help.

Any help?

Finally building my supergun. I'll have a few questions along the way. But first, I need to ask this question.

Wiring kick harnesses. What would be the best method to wire both a cp2 + midway to a d-sub connector. I should just be able to solder the appropriate wires from both kick harnesses to the correct pins on the d-sub. So in theory, I would have two harnesses connected to the d-sub.

I just want to make sure I won't short/ground them out.

I'm not aware of anyone who has built a supergun capable of this (would cost an arm if they did) but you can do it by running video from your supergun to a PC with a video capture card. Here's a great article on the topic: http://yokotate.hazard-city.de/

I built a PC just for this purpose. The greatest cost was the capture card. You may be able to do something similar with a cheaper PC capture card/device (maybe one that just captures s-video) and DScaler. You just want something that is capable of displaying live footage as it is captured. Anything else will induce lag into your controls and you will suffer huge delays.


You just have to get creative with CRT's. I've seen no product for rotating them.
-ud

May I know where can I find JRok 4.1 (Component only) that ships to Malaysia? I'm having hard time finding a replacement for my 3.1

You could always try jrok's webpage. You can email him. He seems like a nice guy he might be able to help you out.

i'm going to add some pots to the RGB lines on a scart cable as the picture is far too bright....anyone know what value pots (variable resistors) i need to use?

220 ohm should be enough, this is what I have in my supergun and it does the job. However I've heard some pcbs have stronger rgb signals and people use 1k pots.

^ thanks, very helpful

The three PGM-based Cave PCBs of Ketsui, DDP-DOJ and ESPgaluda are all notorious for having super strong RGB signal outputs. Some low-res RGB monitors have trouble with them and thus some arcade PCB hobbyists have added the suggested 220 ohm resistors to the RGB lines to tone them down a bit. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

interesting, i've not had any problem with ketsui, but am having trouble with espgaluda 2 and futari

I've got some weird trouble with my supergun and CPS1 pcbs. Basically the start button refuse to work when I use my CPS1 pcbs (Nemo and Carrier Airwing) with my supergun, they do work fine in mine arcade cabinet and though. Weird thing is that the start button work with all the other pcbs I tried with the supergun.

Any ideas?

Anyone?

I want to build second MAK (and first oneself:P)
what speakers can I use on MAK? 8ohm but how much W? what is safe border. I in local shop have 150-17000Hz 3W 8 OHM
My jap MAK use 8ohm and 2W
I use power supply 104W on MAK
+5V 15A max
+12V 4A
-5V 1A