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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 3:44 am 


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Location: zip code 20151 USA
Pasky wrote:
That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).


Is this something that happens right away or overtime? Does this happens only on RGB out put? Could you elaborate how this notice gets created.. The thing is that changing the power supply is not an easy thing on the MK, the power supply needs to be taken apart and there are 3 soldering points..
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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 2:36 pm 


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Pasky wrote:
That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).


Did you link to a good power supply or a bad one? I can't tell from your post.

Anyway, same story for me: MK30 ADCAP (and OSSC) owner; noise with RGB, but perfect with component.


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2017 8:35 pm 


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Triple Lei wrote:
Pasky wrote:
That artifacting is switching noise from the power supply. Those superguns still use those shitty HAPP power supplies that don't filter out that switching noise well (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power ... 23367f9ce9).


Did you link to a good power supply or a bad one? I can't tell from your post.

Anyway, same story for me: MK30 ADCAP (and OSSC) owner; noise with RGB, but perfect with component.


Those are the shitty Suzo Happ's used in the MK30's, if you want a good power supply find one with a low ripple, you can also filter it out on the 5V line (since the video on the arcade pcb and your encoders are using the 5V) using an LC filter with an inductor with a value of 10-20uH. The other option is to use a linear regulator after the switching regulator. But if you can get a quality supply none of this would be neccessary.


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:07 am 


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Location: Italy
Just a heads-up, there's an auction of a 2P supergun on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWIN-RUDDER-/31 ... SwA3dYmVEK

It's not the usual BIN listing and it doesn't have a comprehensive title so it might be a good chance. It must be said though that the seller surely has its quirkness, so there's that..


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:24 pm 


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@CouryC, Tripelef etc -- On my MK, I can confirm the problem was the power supply as Pasky and some the members point it out... took out the old power supply but there is no way to dial up the power meeting without opening the unit since the meter cable is solder to the old power supply and I do not know how to solder those cable into the new power supply. I got it to 5 volts and that is where it will stay. The MWP606 fit in the case but there is no where to secure it to the metal base of the MK so I'' have to remember to be careful.. Hope that this fixes your issues as well.

I am using this power supply which was recommended by some of the members on the HAS tread - MWP606
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360127247409

I am using this cable with the (shield upgrade) recommended by RGB with a Scart switch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-NES-Fa ... Swl8NVdJn9
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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:22 am 


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Instead of that impossible-to-find LC filter or a new power supply, I'm gonna try my luck with a possible fix detailed earlier in this thread:

Quote:
viewtopic.php?p=676113#p676113

One thing that I think not many people mention is that you have to tie logic ground
to earth ground, otherwise you get interference (diagonal scrolling lines or jailbars) in RGB.
Basically, tie GND from the JAMMA harness to the GND pin on the 3-prong AC line connector for the PSU.



viewtopic.php?p=676373#p676373

There's three groups of grounds coming from the JAMMA harness (PWR gnd, Video gnd, Controller gnd).
Route them separately but tie them all together at the point of termination,
hook them to the second and third GND screw terminals on the PSU,
and then link that to the earth GND (third pin from the bottom in the photo) using some fat gauge wire.

Before I linked the logic GND and earth GND, I had some really bad scrolling diagonal line video interference,
but after putting the wire in-between the picture became crystal clear.



Focus Attack sells wire by the foot but it's taking a while to arrive...


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:25 pm 



Joined: 16 Apr 2015
Posts: 26
Any progress? I also have the MK30 ADCAP and its not really working on the Sony BVM.

So how should I fix this 800 dollar supergun?

How can I get a lc filter?

Is ther something like a combined 12/5v lc filter? or is the filter only required for the 5v going to the jrok?


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 6:49 am 



Joined: 13 Apr 2008
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I'm currently deployed so I can't do much in the way of assisting with videos/tutorials for installing the MWP-606, nor am I endorsing installing it on your own and keeping the warranty in tact of the ADCAP BUT as SNK-NEO-GEO points out he was successful in installing the PSU and it fitting. I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY encourage that if you do this mod to your SuperGun you install it using some sticky PCB feet and DOUBLE/TRIPLE check that none of the solder points are close to the metal used in the case. You do not want arcs and sparks causing a fire.

You can remove the on-board Pot on the MWP using a solder wick and iron and then implant the ADCAPs pot to the PSU in its pace and regain +5V control from the outside. Since I haven't gotten my hands on one of the MWP 606s I don't know the value of the pot, but it should be close enough.

This fall when I return I am going to do some testing between the PSUs that I have used in the past and the MWPs and see the differences and power line noise. If they are indeed better and have lower noise I will update the ADCAP and provide some details on a DIY upgrade to existing units. If able, I will make some "bolt in" kits available with everything pre soldered and feet. These are never static devices and I have tried to implement upgrades and changes to them to keep improving them always. This is an interesting case that I never personally noticed since I do my testing with an Arcade Monitor (no noise noted), my Framemeister (I have seen other devices of mine display noise using this device and it do some crazy things with my stream setup), and my Trinitron Wega (no noise, video processed through the JROK).
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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:07 pm 



Joined: 16 Apr 2015
Posts: 26
Hmm, seems my problem is way bigger. just tried a different psu which causes a lot od interference.

but without extron and ddsp on the gun is unplayable for me:

http://youtu.be/W9eJ3YKhDP4

i turn off the ddsp at about 0:10-0:11 and back on from 0:18-19


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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:05 am 



Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 97
Location: Herndon, VA
nio wrote:
Hmm, seems my problem is way bigger. just tried a different psu which causes a lot od interference.

but without extron and ddsp on the gun is unplayable for me:

http://youtu.be/W9eJ3YKhDP4

i turn off the ddsp at about 0:10-0:11 and back on from 0:18-19


The JROK is NTSC. Are you trying it on a PAL TV?
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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:24 am 


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Pretty​ sure he's using the R'G'B signal, so the color subcarrier frequency doesn't matter.
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 Post subject: Re: The Supergun discussion and Q&A thread.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 3:34 pm 



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I caught that after I re-watched the video. I'm at sea right now with very slow internet so it took about 35 minutes to get through it at full speed.
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